BIAB Electric Kettle with Controller

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
BrotherGrim

BrotherGrim

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2012
Messages
351
Reaction score
84
I am getting ready to start a build on an Electric brew kettle for BIAB setup. I have a Blichmann 10 gal kettle with the false bottom on the way, and I am planning on installing a 5500W ULWD heater under the false bottom. The plan is to put together a PID controller with SSR to run the heater allowing me to set my mash temp, then raise temp to boil after the bag is pulled. Planning on a timer unit in the controller as well, essentially a smaller version of the Electric Brewery Controller. They have an awesome setup, but it doesn't fit my reduced equipment desires. I plan on documenting and posting the build if it will come together the way I am envisioning it.

Any thoughts?
 
Sounds like what I am looking for so I will let you do all the hard work and then reap the benefits. Not really. Okay maybe a little.
 
No worries, just make sure you tell me how you want it set up so I don't make what you don't want!

:mug:
 
Your plan sparked my interest so I'm posting a diagram that I drew that fits your description.
I hope it is something that you can use in your plan.

As usual - click on the image for a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid Paper (11" x 17")



Wishing you the best in your adventure.

P-J
 
Thanks P-J! Very nice setup.

I am not going to be using a pump, and the timer I have spec'ed out is the Omega unit, but the basic layout is the same as what I am thinking. Here is my panel layout concept. Obviously a bit rough, but I think it will do what I need.

Brew Control Layout.jpg
 
P-J said:
I think you are going to run into some difficulties without a pump.

Just my humble opinion.

Wishing you success.

P-J
Click to expand...

Are you thinking I will have trouble maintaining mash temps? I was wondering about that myself. I was planning on much manual agitation to keep the heat distributed well, but having not done this yet, I am not sure if it will work.

Just Mike, or anybody for that matter, have you done a BIAB with electric kettle and heating element below the false bottom without a pump. If so, how did it work?
 
Extra large bag with full volume plus estimated absorption volume and boil off volume should provide enough water to keep the grains nice and loose, and keep water circulating in the kettle. My only concern was the heat exchange across the false bottom, but that is why I started the thread, to get feedback on whether or not I was screwing up.
 
BrotherGrim said:
Are you thinking I will have trouble maintaining mash temps? I was wondering about that myself. I was planning on much manual agitation to keep the heat distributed well, but having not done this yet, I am not sure if it will work.

Just Mike, or anybody for that matter, have you done a BIAB with electric kettle and heating element below the false bottom without a pump. If so, how did it work?
Click to expand...
Short answer - Yes.

I believe you will also have issues just heating the strike water with a false bottom in place with the element under it.

During the mash a lot of heat will be lost through the kettle wall and applying power to the element will not resolve the issue without recirculationg the wort.

As I said IMHO.
 
BrotherGrim said:
Extra large bag with full volume plus estimated absorption volume and boil off volume should provide enough water to keep the grains nice and loose, and keep water circulating in the kettle. My only concern was the heat exchange across the false bottom, but that is why I started the thread, to get feedback on whether or not I was screwing up.
Click to expand...
You say "and keep water circulating in the kettle" - How do you plan on doing that?
 
in my experience your problem with be the temp fluctuation between the top and bottom of your kettle. So stirring is a must, and a pump to recirculate top to bottom will greatly enhance your brewing pleasure. But you can also stir like crazy for a while like I did.
 
All I do is BIAB, I heat to my strike, add grain stir cover and stir every 15 minutes through out the 90 minute mash, no issues.

Edit: I mash on my kitchen stove
 
P-J said:
You say "and keep water circulating in the kettle" - How do you plan on doing that?
Click to expand...

Ignorance and brute strength.

I will be using my paddle and stirring the water. I have a very large bag, so it should allow a pretty vigorous stir. I just went out and mowed the lawn, so I had time to think about it, and I will probably add the functionality of the pump, even if I do not purchase it to start with. It should be a minimal cost add in the larger scheme of things. If you turn out to be correct, or if I decide to get lazy and upgrade, then it will be just a matter of purchasing the pump.
 
BrotherGrim,

I just discovered an error in the wiring plan that I drew for you.
I've fixed it now and wanted to let you know. If you saved a copy or have printed it, you need to do it again.
It is the image on page 1 post #4 only corrected now.

P-J
 
Thanks P-J, I appreciate it. I am getting ready to start sourcing parts. I have some on hand from years of scavenging, and I hope to trade for a few others. I posted in another thread that I have a UDC 3300 Honeywell controller that I wouldn't mind trading for some parts. It's a pretty pricey unit, so hopefully I can get some good stuff for it.
 
I am not sure, but for 5 gallon batches doesnt a 5500w element seems quite high strength? Also, i know those elements are quite long and i would verify that it will fit in a small 10 gal pot. Maybe since its temp controlled you will be ok.
I have a friend that brews 10 gal batches(20 gal pot) and uses a 5500w element and says a 4500w would have worked for him better.

Just a thought.
 
ODI3 said:
I am not sure, but for 5 gallon batches doesnt a 5500w element seems quite high strength? Also, i know those elements are quite long and i would verify that it will fit in a small 10 gal pot. Maybe since its temp controlled you will be ok.
I have a friend that brews 10 gal batches(20 gal pot) and uses a 5500w element and says a 4500w would have worked for him better.

Just a thought.
Click to expand...

The 5500W does fit into the Blichmann 10 gal according to the dimensions given. It may be too much power, but as you said, I will be running it with a temp controller, and when I do the full boil, manual control and output adjustment to throttle it back a bit should keep me out of trouble.

My biggest problem right now is I do not have 220 available in my garage, and the 220V panel mounted outside has no extra spaces available to add one. I am thinking I will have to take the main house feed out of the panel that it is in, and move it to a new panel inside the Garage. Then take the space that I had that breaker in, put a new 100A feed the new 100A panel mounted in the garage. The house has a 200A incoming line, so all the math works out OK. I just don't relish the thought of having to buy all the stuff needed to do this. It is adding a bunch more cost to my build plan.
 
BrotherGrim said:
The 5500W does fit into the Blichmann 10 gal according to the dimensions given. It may be too much power, but as you said, I will be running it with a temp controller, and when I do the full boil, manual control and output adjustment to throttle it back a bit should keep me out of trouble.

My biggest problem right now is I do not have 220 available in my garage, and the 220V panel mounted outside has no extra spaces available to add one. I am thinking I will have to take the main house feed out of the panel that it is in, and move it to a new panel inside the Garage. Then take the space that I had that breaker in, put a new 100A feed the new 100A panel mounted in the garage. The house has a 200A incoming line, so all the math works out OK. I just don't relish the thought of having to buy all the stuff needed to do this. It is adding a bunch more cost to my build plan.
Click to expand...

Just got started with Electric BIAB after 4 years using a 3-vessel gas system.
I must admit that I ran into some problem keeping a steady temperature read. I pump the wort from the valve at the bottom of the kettle all the way up to the top of the kettle and I have installed a temp probe at the top...but guess what???...My thermometer in the mash indicated 10F higher than the read at the probe...152F Mash and the controller from the probe indicated 142F...hummm How is that possible; circulation isnot good enough?? I am thinking to move the probe right after the valve but again would that be accurate and does it makes sense since my heating element is at the bottom of the kettle??? Would the temperature read higher than the mash then? It may be closer to the mash temp anyhow...Also I have a sprinkler on the kettle cover and I was thinking that this may slowdown the water circulation too much...may be I'll remove it and see if I get a more accurate reading with a faster flow. Just brewed one batch so far and I relied on the thermometer in the grain not from the controller...which sucks because the idea is to have the controller control the temperature automatically right!
Anyone else is facing a similar issue? My kettle is 20 Gallons so I can brew 10 gallons of beer easy but this could also be the cause of my temperature issue since the flwo may not be as good in a larger kettle...same pump, same 1/2" but bigger kettle with more water? Any thoughts?
thanks
 
terrenum said:
Just got started with Electric BIAB after 4 years using a 3-vessel gas system.
I must admit that I ran into some problem keeping a steady temperature read. I pump the wort from the valve at the bottom of the kettle all the way up to the top of the kettle and I have installed a temp probe at the top...but guess what???...My thermometer in the mash indicated 10F higher than the read at the probe...152F Mash and the controller from the probe indicated 142F...hummm How is that possible; circulation isnot good enough?? I am thinking to move the probe right after the valve but again would that be accurate and does it makes sense since my heating element is at the bottom of the kettle??? Would the temperature read higher than the mash then? It may be closer to the mash temp anyhow...Also I have a sprinkler on the kettle cover and I was thinking that this may slowdown the water circulation too much...may be I'll remove it and see if I get a more accurate reading with a faster flow. Just brewed one batch so far and I relied on the thermometer in the grain not from the controller...which sucks because the idea is to have the controller control the temperature automatically right!
Anyone else is facing a similar issue? My kettle is 20 Gallons so I can brew 10 gallons of beer easy but this could also be the cause of my temperature issue since the flwo may not be as good in a larger kettle...same pump, same 1/2" but bigger kettle with more water? Any thoughts?
thanks
Click to expand...

Are you sure your mash thermometer is accurate?
 
Broham1 said:
Are you sure your mash thermometer is accurate?
Click to expand...

Yes; I tried it at boiling temp 212F and freezing already but haven't in a while...Do these Digital cooking thermometers require calibration?
I put it in the kettle while I was boiling and it was 212-213...
 

Similar threads

BeerFather Brewing
Texas Electric Homebrewing Set-up - $100 local p/u DFW, TX - SOLD
Replies
1
Views
366
BeerFather Brewing
BeerFather Brewing
O
Upsizing to 50 gallons BIAB
Replies
25
Views
896
mashdar
mashdar
H
Converting to 3 Kettle Advice
2
Replies
43
Views
2K
Deadalus
Deadalus
pat_carnig
For Sale Parting out 15gal E-HERMS system
Replies
2
Views
304
pat_carnig
pat_carnig
G
Connecticut CT - 50 gal Electric brewhouse
Replies
0
Views
284
Gaartok
G

Latest posts

Back
Top