Heat source for fermentation chamber

Williams 728
Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
smittygouv30

smittygouv30

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2011
Messages
332
Reaction score
21
Location
Fayetteville
I'm in the process of converting a chest freezer to a fermentation chamber. The dual stage temperature controller, stc-1000, is enroute. I'm
Trying to compile everything so when it gets ere I can just plug everything into it and roll.

I did a pretty thorough search of the site looking for heating ideas. I've seen people use reptile lamps, lamps with aluminum foil, heated blankets, special brew pads, ceramic heating fans etc.

My question is what's the best and what's the safest? What are other people using?
 
i built in a light bulb and covered it with a metal can, its does the job for me. Although i just use a mini fridge. maybe more lights would work for you?
 
I used a Reptile heat cable. My ferm chamber fits 3 buckets and I wanted the heat evenly distributed throughout the whole chamebr instead of just coming from one end. I do think any of the ideas would work though. The light bulb in a paint can was my second option.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I use a 1000 watt heater that has a small footprint, its own circuit breaker, and a fan that helps to distribute heat.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
smittygouv30 said:
I finally found this link. I saw people talking about this in other threads but was unsure what exactly they were talking about.

Bulb in a paint can,

http://brewstands.com/fermentation-heater.html
Click to expand...
I'm not trying to discourage DIY, or even DIY electrical. But, if you choose to build the above DIY, please be careful. As shown, it is a relatively dangerous item.

The plastic fixture is not likely rated for this type of installation. The enclosed bulb will result in a build up of heat, which could easily melt the plastic fixture and compromise the electrical connections. The cord is not grounded and is unprotected as it enters the can through a sharp edged hole in the sheet metal. And finally, the metallic can is not grounded and could become energized if the fixture or cord is compromised. Touching the can while energized could result in death.

ALWAYS use a GFCI protected circuit/outlet for all your brewery tools.
 
I have been using a hair dryer. Heats quickly, has its own fan and was super cheap.
 
raouliii said:
I'm not trying to discourage DIY, or even DIY electrical. But, if you choose to build the above DIY, please be careful. As shown, it is a relatively dangerous item.

The plastic fixture is not likely rated for this type of installation. The enclosed bulb will result in a build up of heat, which could easily melt the plastic fixture and compromise the electrical connections. The cord is not grounded and is unprotected as it enters the can through a sharp edged hole in the sheet metal. And finally, the metallic can is not grounded and could become energized if the fixture or cord is compromised. Touching the can while energized could result in death.

ALWAYS use a GFCI protected circuit/outlet for all your brewery tools.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the response. I'll admit I'm a naive weekend DIYer. I find projects and that I think they do-able and are "cool" and don't have the knowledge to fully understand if there are safety concerns or not. Regardless, thanks. Do you have a recommendation as to what might be the safest effective heating method?
 
smittygouv30 said:
Thank you for the response. I'll admit I'm a naive weekend DIYer. I find projects and that I think they do-able and are "cool" and don't have the knowledge to fully understand if there are safety concerns or not. Regardless, thanks. Do you have a recommendation as to what might be the safest effective heating method?
Click to expand...
The paint can heater could be made much safer with a few simple upgrades. A porcelain fixture instead of plastic. A three prong cord with the ground / green wire securely grounded to the can. A strain relief / insulator used where the cord enters the can. It would probably still not get a UL rating because of the burn hazard, but it would be much safer from an electrical standpoint.

And of course, always use a gfci protected circuit or outlet.
 
raouliii said:
The paint can heater could be made much safer with a few simple upgrades. A porcelain fixture instead of plastic. A three prong cord with the ground / green wire securely grounded to the can. A strain relief / insulator used where the cord enters the can. It would probably still not get a UL rating because of the burn hazard, but it would be much safer from an electrical standpoint.

And of course, always use a gfci protected circuit or outlet.
Click to expand...

I'm going to take your advice. It's of the items I found right at Walmart including a 10 ft 3 pronged extension cord, a porcelain light fixture, the metal box to attach the fixture, and the gfci outlet. I did gave to go to lowes for the aluminum empty paint can.
I did have a question about the optimal placement for the ground screw. Should I connect it to the metal box that the light fixture attaches to or to the can itself? Or does it not really matter?
 
I just use a regular light bulb. I use a cheap work light I bought at lowes; just unscrew the reflector and yo uhave a socket-cord with built-in switch.
 
smittygouv30 said:
......I did have a question about the optimal placement for the ground screw. Should I connect it to the metal box that the light fixture attaches to or to the can itself? Or does it not really matter?
Click to expand...
The metal box is fine and may make attaching the lid easier with all wires terminating on the lid. It doesn't matter all that much, as long as all of the metallic parts are adequately grounded to one another. For instance, if there are painted interior surfaces in the can and lid as in the example, care should be taken that at least a portion of the mating surfaces between each metallic part is free from paint. Metal to metal contact guarantees conductivity and adequate grounding. Replacing the self-tapping screws of the example with short screw/lockwasher/nut to attach the metal box will provide adequate conduction through the screw to the exterior, unpainted surface of the lid. The ground wire could even be attached under one of the attachment screws.

Good luck
 
Hi

..... also consider where it's going to be placed. You don't want to bash it with a fermentation vessel. It's going to get fairly warm, so you don't want it in contact with a vessel or the walls of the chamber.

Bob
 
raouliii said:
The metal box is fine and may make attaching the lid easier with all wires terminating on the lid. It doesn't matter all that much, as long as all of the metallic parts are adequately grounded to one another. For instance, if there are painted interior surfaces in the can and lid as in the example, care should be taken that at least a portion of the mating surfaces between each metallic part is free from paint. Metal to metal contact guarantees conductivity and adequate grounding. Replacing the self-tapping screws of the example with short screw/lockwasher/nut to attach the metal box will provide adequate conduction through the screw to the exterior, unpainted surface of the lid. The ground wire could even be attached under one of the attachment screws.

Good luck
Click to expand...

The metal box actually came with a green ground screw. So, I'll just use that to attach the ground wire to the inside of the metal box. That should keep things as organized as possible.

I'm interested to see how hot this thing is
going to get. Any idea on the science behind why this works better then just letting the light hang out in a socket outside the paint can?

Would you guys recommend putting a insulated may or something under the can in the freezer to prevent it from melting anything? Any ideas?
 
raouliii said:
The paint can heater could be made much safer with a few simple upgrades. A porcelain fixture instead of plastic. A three prong cord with the ground / green wire securely grounded to the can. A strain relief / insulator used where the cord enters the can. It would probably still not get a UL rating because of the burn hazard, but it would be much safer from an electrical standpoint.

And of course, always use a gfci protected circuit or outlet.
Click to expand...

I think I would mount the bulb on the bottom of the can, too. Eliminate the risk of rising heat affecting the fixture or wires.
 
smittygouv30 said:
The metal box actually came with a green ground screw. So, I'll just use that to attach the ground wire to the inside of the metal box. That should keep things as organized as possible.

I'm interested to see how hot this thing is
going to get. Any idea on the science behind why this works better then just letting the light hang out in a socket outside the paint can?

Would you guys recommend putting a insulated may or something under the can in the freezer to prevent it from melting anything? Any ideas?
Click to expand...

I would probably put something high-heat resistance under the can and also make sure it's not touching anything directly on the sides or top. Personally I'd mount the bulb on the bottom of the can.

The heat is relatively contained in the can and then more evenly dispersed by it's metal walls. That's the "science".
 
Hi

Running the bulb inside the can is going to get the base of it pretty warm. I would mount it base down just to help it as much as possible. I'd also spray the bulb with a *light* film of silicone lube spray before screwing it in. It seems to help keep things from welding together from the heat. Useful when it's time to change out the bulb...

Since the bulb will be cycling on and off, get the longest, toughest rated bulb you can find. Constant on/off is about the worst thing you can do for an incandescent bulb. It's not going to live a long and happy life...

Bob
 
I finally got the heater completed. Boy that sucker warms up quick. Within a minute the can is too hot to touch. I have a 100w bulb on the inside of the can.

image-2844350554.jpg


image-3650950970.jpg


image-3724127342.jpg
 
I was thinking of using reptile heater tape if need be. Right now I only need cooling. Maybe my basement will be cold enough in winter to revisit
 
looks good, i used a quart can with an outside rubber socket, cut the hole big enough in the cover to press fit the rubber socket in place. I used a 40w bulb and it works perfect. make sure you have a fan turn on with the light or you will have trouble getting your temp to change in a timely manner.

nice work!
 
rekoob said:
looks good, i used a quart can with an outside rubber socket, cut the hole big enough in the cover to press fit the rubber socket in place. I used a 40w bulb and it works perfect. make sure you have a fan turn on with the light or you will have trouble getting your temp to change in a timely manner.

nice work!
Click to expand...

Very cool! You don't have pictures do you?
 

Similar threads

A
Fermentation Chamber Filling Up With Water
Replies
11
Views
1K
Deadalus
Deadalus
M
For Sale Complete homebrew system - HERMS, conical, temp controlled.. Denver metro
Replies
1
Views
231
metaltim
M
grampska
Heating Pad and Probe Placement
Replies
3
Views
1K
eric19312
eric19312
jsnby
For Sale 10 gallon natural gas/electric HERMS system, all brewery equipment
Replies
11
Views
2K
Kickass
K
K
Help making a NONE fridge fermentation chamber ?
Replies
23
Views
4K
Kingtj
K
Williams Brewing 300

Latest posts

Back
Top