I'm getting a 75qt two keg cooler together. Here is my progress so far.
On these two pictures, it seems that QDs for the gas lines are used. Any idea what size/type those are? I have meant to do that a few times but get always distracted.
Both pics are from here:
Hey, that bottom pic is of the Tailgater which is mine. Thanks for making it a Star Dan by re-posting (I kid of course). In the top pic, the upper keg is using ball lock QD's as I did. The other keg is using pin lock. Those will sit higher - how much I do not know as I have no experience with them.
As for the size of the QD's, not sure what you mean as the ball lockQD's are all a standard size as far as I know.
For those that have put the faucets through the front, now that you've used it, would you go that route again, or would you do a tower if you had the option??....
I might make/get a bulkhead for the gas to go from the outside to the inside.
I also use primarily 3 gallon ball-lock kegs for my brew. I have some used and some I picked up brand new.
Just looking for confirmation on the cooler everyone seems to be using, with success... It's the Igloo Ice Cube MaxCold 70 Roller, right?
I tried to quote the pics but for some reason they didn't come through.. so I c&p'ed as mentioned Sorry about that.
Well the QDs I actually meant wasn't the ones from the kegs themselves rather what's used for the gas lines coming into the cooler. I can't really from the pictures of these two examples what type of hardware is used.
For those that have put the faucets through the front, now that you've used it, would you go that route again, or would you do a tower if you had the option??
I used 3" shanks with no problem. I like the lower profile with the faucets on the front. I've used it one time but am happy thus far. I have the CO2 connected simply with a q/d running outside the cooler. I do not have any new 3-gallon kegs.
Gryphon,
I've had good luck transporting my beer and having it be extremely clean and drinkable immediately. However, I always use a secondary fermenter and have very little sediment in my kegs as a result of this in combination with force carbing instead of sugar. The only time I've had an issue has been in dealing with the IMMEDIATE force carb method when I overcarbed an IPA. The beer looked more like a snowcone than beer, but once it settled in the glass people loved it and ended up draining that keg regardless of the foam (so I chalk that one up to my screw up). The other tap was normal 1-2 week force carbed and that poured clear after being wheeled out of house, driven for 30 minutes, and wheeled down a street and up 2 flights of stairs.
The rollers appear to handle normal flat surfaces well, but you'll need to use the handles for everything else as you will have up to 6 gallons of beer and ice/water if you've already loaded it. I'm just happy that the telescoping handle can take the weight honestly. I'm looking into possibly upgrading to "offroad" wheels somehow to make beach or field travel more reasonable.
Blue
I'm planning on using the 75 qt Coleman pictured above and have a question about the dimensions: if the bottom dims are 11x15", how do you fit two 8.5" dia kegs side-by-side? I measured one of these coolers in Walmart the other day and thought it had at least 18" in the bottom.
Has anyone tried and used the 2" shanks yet?
I built one a few years ago. I'm just wondering what is the purpose of everyone using the manifolds. Since these are portable systems with easy accessibility, I'd assume if you wanted to stop co2 from going to a keg, you would just take the quick disconnect off. These builds are great, but I just thought I'd mention to a person thinking of building one and trying to do so on the cheap end, the manifold is not totally necessary, just use a tee.
I'm pretty sure 2" shanks don't work. I think I tried that and ended up having to buy longer shanks.
Ah I see. Thanks for the info. I am halfway to making this project a reality.
I am hoping to have it done for the summertime. Going to order the 3 inch shanks today.
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