Ball Check Valve (kegging noob, please be gentle)

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ShortSnoutBrewing

Kwanesum Chinook Illahee
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
3,189
Reaction score
25
Location
Portland, OR
OK, so I've got everything to set up my keezer. My questions relate to the regulator. First, I've purchased some Ball Check Valves, but I'm slightly confused on where it goes. Do I have to take off the barbed shut off, place the valve, then put the shutoff back on to the valve? Or am I way off?

Second, and this is the one that makes me feel really dumb but these damn things don't come with instructions :p I know the screw coming out of the middle of the regulator body is to adjust the pressure. But the shut off valve...what is off and what is on? Parallel to barb is off, perpendicular is on?

Thanks.
 
I'm pretty sure when the handle for the shutoff valve is inline with the pipe it is open and when it is 90 degrees to the pipe it is off. That's how a valve for natural gas works and I think it's the same. Try to blow thru it in both positions and you'll know for sure.

I think you have it right on the ball check valves but I'm kinda iffy on that I have no personal experience.
 
Parallel (inline) to barb is ON, perpendicular is OFF.

Not sure if I understand your first question though. The barbed shut off came with the regulator and you want to replace it with a ball check valve to prevent backflow? You could do that, or if you have multiple ball valves, use them in a manifold or brass Tee to have individual shut offs for the kegs.

Simple example/another way of looking at it:
Tank valve= on/off from the tank
regulator valve = on/off out of the regulator
brass tee:
in: hose to regulator
out: shut off/check to keg 1
out: shut off/check to keg 2
 
kinison_fan said:
Parallel (inline) to barb is ON, perpendicular is OFF.

Not sure if I understand your first question though. The barbed shut off came with the regulator and you want to replace it with a ball check valve to prevent backflow? You could do that, or if you have multiple ball valves, use them in a manifold or brass Tee to have individual shut offs for the kegs.

Thanks on the first part...

As for the valves. I have a dual gage on the tank with a barbed shut off.
d_1505.jpg


This will go into a series of 4 inline regulators that have the same (barbed shutoff).
d_4022.jpg


I'm looking to prevent backflow in the inline regulators. I purchased 4 check valves. Did I make a boo boo?
:drunk:
 
Kilted Brewer said:
I'm looking to prevent backflow in the inline regulators. I purchased 4 check valves. Did I make a boo boo?
:drunk:


Some ball valves have built in check valves and some do not. If I was unsure as to which i had, I would go ahead and add the check valves. Make sure that you have them facing the proper direction by blowing through them.
 
HighPlainsDrifter said:
Some ball valves have built in check valves and some do not. If I was unsure as to which i had, I would go ahead and add the check valves. Make sure that you have them facing the proper direction by blowing through them.

Thanks. The question was where do I put the ball check valves? I'm gathering that they would typically be where the barbed shut offs are.
 
Yep. You got it right.....should be after the regulator. Your question is confusing because "ball" and "check" are two different types of valves.
 
Curious about the shape/configuration and the 'cap'...should be able to screw the shutoff/hose barb right into the check valve...love to see a pic of the hidden/capped end. It appears to have a smaller, different thread....sorta awkward to mount if that is the case....:confused:


4193.jpg
 
Henry Hill said:
Curious about the shape/configuration and the 'cap'...should be able to screw the shutoff/hose barb right into the check valve...love to see a pic of the hidden/capped end. It appears to have a smaller, different thread....sorta awkward to mount if that is the case....:confused:


4193.jpg

Got them too...One end of the valve is larger (fatter) and looks like it would fit in the regulator just fine. But the other end is smaller (thinner) and this is where the cap screws on. Basically two "male" ends. That's what confuses me about where they are located. Without a female end how do I get the barbed shutoff back on. Or do I?

I haven't opened the package yet, so I can still send them back, but with the regulators I have, do I not have the choice of something to prevent backflow?
 
That looks like a decent alternative. So with what I've got I'd put a short length (may 1') of gas line from the inline regulators, this little guy, then more gas line to the kegs?
 
My shut offs had integral check valves (even though I was told by Micromatic they didn't).... :rolleyes:

I had bought shutoffs WITH check valves and didn't need to install them (after I had them apart).
 
Henry Hill said:
My shut offs had integral check valves (even though I was told by Micromatic they didn't).... :rolleyes:

I had bought shutoffs WITH check valves and didn't need to install them (after I had them apart).

How would one tell if the shut offs had the valves?
 
Kilted Brewer said:
How would one tell if the shut offs had the valves?
I'd think taking them off and trying to blow through them both ways would be a start.

I am guessing that the check valves you got are 1/4" NPT (pipe threads) to 1/4" MFL (flare) fitting. The MFL end of it is designed to be attached directly to your tubing - as such, it's designed for tubing with swivel flare fittings on the end. It is an alternative to using barbed fittings (and an improvement) - with flare fittings your tubing just screws onto the connection, rather than ever having to mess with hose barbs.
An example of the tubing:
http://www.northernbrewer.com/pics/fullsize/gas-conn-kit.jpg
So, it's not designed to be used with what you have currently - your best bet is to either buy some swivel nuts to attach to your tubing, and ditch the hose barbs (assuming the hose barbs on your valves are removable):
http://pivo.northernbrewer.com/nbstore/action/search-do?searchTerm=K123
or just don't use the check valves. Obviously, if you find your shutoffs already have check valves, then you're all set anyway.
 
I sent an email to the folks I bought the regulators from and they confirm that the DO have integral check valves, so the worrying is over. I'll send back the valves I purchased, unless anyone here wants them.

But while I have you here, what's wrong with the barbed fittings? Not as good as a seal and less flexability (ie, once they're on they are no type of deal?)
 
Kilted Brewer said:
But while I have you here, what's wrong with the barbed fittings? Not as good as a seal and less flexability (ie, once they're on they are no type of deal?)
that's pretty much it.
 
Back
Top