Well, I agree the element is gonna get really hot really quick, but I don't know if the air in the tube would transfer the temp to the probe quick enough to save the element?
I agree if you got it you might as well use it... just not sure I would depend on it to do the job.
I tested mine as if I had a stuck mash by closing the valve and completely stopped the flow...
I use a BCS460 and the control, caught the temp before it reached 170f. (It spiked about 10f above the setpoint) That is out of the box setup (I can't take credit fur tuning), I'm not sure an Auber PID would do the same, the other thing is that my tube is 2" in diameter so it has a fairly large volume to "dampen" the temp spike.
I don't think it is as much of a function of the probe as much as it is a function of how fast can the pid respond to the change in temperature as read from the probe. The probe reads the change in temperature. It doesn't know whether it is in a liquid or air, nor does it care.
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The Auber Instruments PID responds very quickly. It may be a bit more robust for the application being it is designed explicitly as a PID instead of a processor running PID software. This is a hunch on my part though.
I know the PID responds to the probe, but the temp of the probe has to change before the PID will react.
As an example;
If a heating element is submerged in water and the surface of the element is 212f, you won't be able to put you hand in the water (it will all be 212f). However, in open air, you can put your hand relatively close to a red hot element that is way hotter than 212f. The Auber PID will respond based on it's tuning. If it was Auto Tuned with a high volume of liquid flowing across the element then when/if the flow stops, there may be an issue.
I think it would be easier to use a CROSS and simply put a valve on the 4th side. After the brew session, open the valve and drain. But that is me.
First of all, thank you. Everyone. This thread is awesome.
I'm not sure, though, how people are connecting the tubing to the RIMS tees. Are you using hose barbs and hose clamps? Since I'm using QD's on all my tubing, can I just screw two QD's into the tees on the RIMS pipe?
First of all, thank you. Everyone. This thread is awesome.
I'm not sure, though, how people are connecting the tubing to the RIMS tees. Are you using hose barbs and hose clamps? Since I'm using QD's on all my tubing, can I just screw two QD's into the tees on the RIMS pipe?
Whats the purpose of having a T-peice on both ends ? In other words run the wort straight in from the opposite side the element is installed.
Anyone have a basic how-to explanation on how this all works. It is kinda confusing to look at this all and figure out what all everything does.
Hopefully this isn't too dumb of a question.
In this case the thermocouple is installed on the same side as the element. The wort could enter from the end. Unless theres another reason for the t-peice straight flow would be better.
Yes, on closer inspection I see that. Seems counter-intuitive to have the temp probe so close to the element. I would want it measuring the flow from the outlet.
I'll be your Huckleberry: Basically you have a mash tun with a valve at the bottom. That MT can be a keggle or a cooler. A pump recirculates wort from the bottom and that passes through a heating tube (RIMS tube like the copper one a few posts up) and gently back to the top of the grain bed. Most people use a PID of some sort with a K-type probe inserted into the wort or into the RIMS tube. That tells the heater when to cycle on and off for maintaining the mash temp. The pump recirculates the wort for the entire mash. Never allow the heating element to run dry or you'll be replacing it.
A lot of guys build their own PID but you can buy a ready made one like I did from Auber Instruments. Also, the RIMS tube parts are not available at your local Home Depot or Lowes. The weldless parts are what most guys have used and you will spend around $100 for those in stainless. However, there is a vendor on this forum who is manufacturing a ready to use welded tube for $75! http://brewersequipment.com/SSRimsTube.html
You will also need the electric element that screws into the tube and hose barbs for your tubing. The elements are typically water heater elements and they can be bought at HD or Lowes. Everyone recommends a low watt density element so your wort will not scorch. There are some threads here about which ones to use and how to wire them.
You could also do this:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/introducing-lazy-mans-rims-195790/
I found this and thought I'd share...
http://www.vandelogt.nl/htm/rims_herms_uk.htm
Helps explain it for use newbs.
Limulus, why do you use a no sparge system? Just ease of use or you have a bigger, better setup so you don't have?
Whats the purpose of having a T-peice on both ends ? In other words run the wort straight in from the opposite side the element is installed.
I found this and thought I'd share...
http://www.vandelogt.nl/htm/rims_herms_uk.htm
Helps explain it for use newbs.
Thanks for that link. Helped explain it to this noob.
If you use a RIMS system could you essential make it a no sparge if you start with the full boil volume of water,and after the normal mash time you set the PID to the higher sparge temp and the recirculate for the remaining sparge time?
I could be way off here. But havent seen this answered elsewhere. If its found anywhere else please feel free to show me where it is
Thanks for that link. Helped explain it to this noob.
If you use a RIMS system could you essential make it a no sparge if you start with the full boil volume of water,and after the normal mash time you set the PID to the higher sparge temp and the recirculate for the remaining sparge time?
I could be way off here. But havent seen this answered elsewhere. If its found anywhere else please feel free to show me where it is
Thanks for that link. Helped explain it to this noob.
If you use a RIMS system could you essential make it a no sparge if you start with the full boil volume of water,and after the normal mash time you set the PID to the higher sparge temp and the recirculate for the remaining sparge time?
I could be way off here. But havent seen this answered elsewhere. If its found anywhere else please feel free to show me where it is
Yes, you do this even with a sparge, it's called mashing out.
If i'm following your logic correctly, you would have a very, very thin mash. Not an ideal situation.
I may not have asked this in the best way.
And Im going to just toss out some numbers as an example
lets say I need ~6 gallons for my full boil.
If I would normally mash with 4 gallons, 1 gallon absorbed by the grains, leaving 3 gallons from the 1 hour mash, then sparge with another 3 gallons to get my 6 gallons
Could I in theory use a RIMS setup with 7 gallons, with the same 1 gallon lost to grains, after first mash of 1 hour just up the temp to what it would be after a normal sparge?
I have many thoughts, most of them are not good ones......
One of the unique features for this controller is that the built-in relay can handle 10 A of current at 120VAC. That means 1200 watts of load can be connected directly to the controller without the need of an external relay or SSR. That is a very convenient for applications that only a small heater is used.
On a forum like this you can't expect answers immediately. It can take a couple of days. Sure you can do that, and if you read the auber website for that particular PID, you would have known that it is designed to eliminate the need for an SSR with a low draw device.
From the Auber Website:
1200 watt, 120 volt, low watt density elements are not common. After a quick Google search, the first page yielded only one: 1200 watts @ 120 Vac Water Heater Element
You could use a 240 volt rated element and feed it 120 volts for 1/4 the rated wattage.
Kladue, maybe you could help me understand this idea. I get confused, because my house is 120V power. What size element would you use and how do you calculate to 1/4 the rated wattage. You guys must be electrical engineers or something.
It won't heat the wort in any time soon. It is designed to maintain heated wort at a steady mash temperature, which is does very well. If you want to heat to substantial temperatures, 1200 watts probably won't do it. I know that 1500 watts won't. To heat, you probably need 220v elements. At least that is my experience.
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