Closed-system pressurized fermentation technique!

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What do you guys think about pressure fermentations? Time for a poll.

  • I've done it and I liked it just fine!

  • I've done it, nothing wrong with it, but prefer normal fermentation techniques.

  • I've done it, hate it, and never will do it again!

  • I've never done it, but it is on my list!

  • I've never done anything. I only brew beer in my mind.


Results are only viewable after voting.
Have you checked into "blending" or High Gravity Brewing? If your mash tun can handle a bigger load of grain then you can brew a higher OG beer with proportionately higher hops and other additions, and then can add it to pre-boiled water in your fermenter to achieve the OG you want. Or, do what some of the big guys do by blending pre-container so you get the most from your fermenter, of course they use perfectly controlled water for this and I don't want to go there until I am very sure about the process. :D I am thinking about blending using my new system to get me to a whole 15.5 gallon final batch. The pressure fermentation technique I use allow me more in the fermenter because of subdued krausen height, and I know how much is always left in my fermenter afterwords. So, if nothing leaves the fermenter until it is finished and you take good gravity readings, I should know how much beer is going into my serving/"secondary" ahead of time. Knowing this, I could boil my water after pitching my yeast or even wait a day and then boil and add my cool measured (because hot water expands and will give you a wrong reading) pre-boiled water to the soon-to-be serving keg. Once in there, I will purge it with the CO2 from fermentation (spunding valve on serving keg not fermenter) and will remove even more of the remaining O2 in the water. Then at transfer time, I will bleed the spunding valve on the serving keg as I'm adding back gas to the fermenter, just like serving a beer. The higher gravity beer will mix with the same carbonation level water and then mature just like normal. :ban: Where it at, where it at, where it at??? I love the flexibility this gives me in the very near future even more so than it does right now, and I love it now :D.
 
I am on the way. I have a buddy that works for some kinda pipe fitting place with a McM-C account. You might have a PM soon.

I did a very high gravity half bock, brewed one gallon of dopplebock, diluted with 3 gallons of water in the bottling bucket so I have four gallons of "half bock" to serve my BMC swilling friends. I can see fermenting say 4 gallons of "English Bitter" that won't hit FG until it gets racked onto one gallon of H2O in the serving keg. Schweet!

I picked up two more "straight spear" cornies last night, so I have three where the spear under the black post is perfectly straight and I should be able to juggle lengths around and leave most of the crud behind when I xfer to serving keg.

I did convert two grey posts to airlocks last night also, both of my SMaSH brews are in steel under airlocks. When the time comes I will use CO2 to push them into the bottling bucket, both of those will be bottled conditioned for eventual swap shipment.

I also have all the parts for a black to black corny transfer hose, and I figured out how to purge CO2 into empty corny's through the black post.

And I have the stuff for a steep/extract English Pale, so as soon as I get my McM-C stuff in I'll brew that and measure how much gets pushed out the blowoff. I am sure the proper transfer spear length will vary with the OG and yeastchoice for starters... but my next batch is going to carb itself in the keg under a spunding valve.

My plastic fermenter is retired. I will be using it as an ice bucket to control temp on my next batch that will primary in steel.

My glass carboys have been given away free to good homes.

I feel so organized that I should probably go have a home brew right now, except it is 0930AM local.

Thanks for the inspiration wortmonger. I was explaining to my LHBS guy last night about transferring keg to keg with a spunding valve on the target keg and I thought he was going to pee his pants.
 
Glad I could be of help. I really like the way things just seem easier. It does cost more for the gadgets, but makes my life so much easier. I am trying to post some pics of what I have planned for CO2 reclamation (the make your own CO2 thread and pics are of course more than I will probably do, but the idea for purging the keg is the main idea), you should check it out if you want to.
 
I have just siphoned my last beer. I do have one more empty Corny and five one gallon batches of mead in glass, but that can wait. My last beer is out of glass into Stainless and I (knock wood) am never going to have to fool with a siphon again.

All I have from McMaster Carr right now is a order confirmation number, but I am about to ululate like a blue painted Celt while my autosiphon goes thup-thup-thupping off the balcony.

Thanks again wortmonger, from here on out I get to use CO2 and a transfer tube.

If a siphon falls in the dumpster and there is no one to mourn does it still make a noise?
 
LOL, I have never used an auto siphon so I have no idea what one is. I am about to bottle from my primary about two gallons that got left during transfer last time. I think I am just going to use the simplistic method proposed by BeirMuncher, I believe, and use my testing spigot and a stopper and bleed the stopper to fill the bottle. This is just getting too simple.
 
wortmonger said:
LOL, I have never used an auto siphon so I have no idea what one is. I am about to bottle from my primary about two gallons that got left during transfer last time. I think I am just going to use the simplistic method proposed by BeirMuncher, I believe, and use my testing spigot and a stopper and bleed the stopper to fill the bottle. This is just getting too simple.


Actually I just racked from from flat keg to bottling bucket onto priming sugar;-) Like ten minutes ago.

For flat beer to priming sugar I used 10 feet of 3/16" tube with just a black post at the keg end and bare naked hose barb in the bottom of the bottling bucket.

At the other end I just hooked up my CO2 tank to the grey post on the source keg.

I actually held the bare end of the transfer hose over the sink while the yeast was blowing, then to the bottling bucket.

I used the same 10-12psi CO2 I am using to serve and force carb EdWorts Haus Pale.

No bubbling issues, I might invoke a picnic tap and racking cane next time so I can stop the flow immediately when the yeast is gone and the beer is running clear.

Just M2c.

Still thinking about bottling forced carbed beer. It seems like the swap results are spotty though several folks are getting good results with bottles that stay home.
 
Hey Orfy, let me brew this week and take some better pictures. I want it to be spot on when I make a go at the Wiki. I will do a much better write-up with a lot more pictures. I am glad you even think it is worthy :D so I will do you guys some justice and make it great.
 
Well the haggis is in the fire now. I have 4 gallons of steep/extract @1.051 English Pale Ale in a five gallon corny, with a serving keg set to receive the last gallon of water.

I pitched my yeast 73 minutes ago, the thread makes a whole lot more sense with keg over here by my right knee building pressure ;-)

I am going to reset my spunding valve from 30psi down to I think 5psi for a couple days. Once the yeast are ripping, then I'll slowly increase the pressure in the keg.

Video in equipment section.
 
Right on, keep us informed of your ferment at 5 psi. I am curious if 1 gallon is enough head space, and you should find out pretty quickly if it is not. I'd recommend putting something like a rag over the "gas escape" just in case krausen gets there and starts spitting out. Are you temperature controlling your ferment? I need to go check out your videos, maybe it shows there. Anyways, glad you understand it now and can't wait to hear about your "victory," hopefully.
 
wortmonger said:
Right on, keep us informed of your ferment at 5 psi.

If I was using Yellow Nottingham and just an airlock, I would not be worried about overflow gunk coming out the airlock.

I hope if Safale 05 was weven more aggressive than Yellow Notti I would have heard about it already.

I do have a stick-on thermometer on the side of my primary-ing Cornelius. When the temp and pressure start to rise later this afternoon I am going to stand the keg in a kitchensink, dump a bag of ice in the sink around the keg, leave the spunding vavle set at 5psi and hope for the best.

Like I said, unless Salfale 05 is some special forces kinda yeast I would be fine with an airlock, so with a less aggressive yeast and 5psi on the headspace I think I'll be OK.
 
I am going to put all my notes from my first fermentation under pressure here. Editing stuff back into this post keeps all the observations in one place, and keeps from bumping the trhead over and over, so every one wins. Right now I am 24 hours in, so quick recap:

In primary ferment keg #1 I have four gallons (give or take a quart) of 1.050 steep/ extract English Pale Ale. In keg number 2 is one gallon of RO water, so I have two Cornies tied up right now, but my batch size is five gallons, with a virtual OG of 1.040.

It looked like I had plenty of head space as I pitched Safale 05 into keg #1.

The two kegs are connected to each other, grey post on keg #1 with four gallons fermenting to black post on keg #2 with one gallon of water carbonating. They are connected with 10 feet of 3/16" ID line. Both kegs and the line have been pressure tested to 59psi.

The spunding valve is on the grey post of keg #2, set at 5psi to start.

After pitching the yeast I pushed CO2 from a supply tank into the system to seal the kegs. I pushed in the black post on keg #2, so all (most of) the wort should be out of the spear and at the party.

Over the first 12 hours the system pressure seeped slowly down as the temp crept up, the CO2 dissolved into the liquid and the yeast were lagging.

At aproximately pitch + 12 hours the fermenter temp was up to 70°F and the spunding vavle was showing zero psi. I put keg #1 in a kitchen sink with three pounds of ice, and about a gallon of water; purged the black post on keg #1 with CO2 to 10psi for I think the third time, and went to bed.

This morning, pitch plus 24 hours, the temp was at "64-66-68" on the stick on, the ice was melted, the spunding valve is showing 5psi. I am adding ice to the sink one pound at a time to keep the temperature stable. When my ice rate slows down I'll start upping the pressure.

At this time there is no visible vapor in the transfer line, never mind head foam:

{will insert pic in a day or two}

The other thing I notice, big time, is the scent. You know how you can lean over the air lock of an actively fermenting pale ale and get a big hit of floral hops? Not with this system. What I have in my apartment right now is a heady roasty malty grainy goodness vapor in little pockets here and there. I bet the water in the bottom of keg #2 is trapping some highly volatile hop somethings and I can hardly wait to taste those.

So for now I'll keep pitching ice in the sink, I am making a slow chili today anyway. I promise to grab a hydro sample when the ice rate slows down and I am about to start raising the pressure.

Minor observations I will edit into this post, for major changes I will bump the thread.

EDITS BEGIN:

12-30-07- 1800 After 12 hours of feeding the ferment cooler ice I pulled a gravity sample, 1.034. Tasty enough I intend to get very very good at this technique.

01-01-08: I think my picnic tap was leaking. I took it off and forced carbed to 9psi, and then set the spunding valve set 9 revolutions above audible pffft. At one point I had a word problem laid out: 4 gal liquid and one gal head space at 64dF with one gal liquid and 4 gal headspace at 74dF - connected by a short tube, system pressure is 2psi. How many gallons of CO2 are in the system ?- so I stuck the serving keg in an ice bath to equalize the temperatures.

01-04-08 I guess my leak was in my new valve. I was losing pressure somewhere. I racked to serving keg earlier than I expected to reduce the system Oring count, and ended up forcing to 25psi and crash cooling. At this point i have 5 gallons of 1.016 all in one keg, in the fridge, at 50dF. The prssure in the headspace is "sopmewhere" north of 10psi. I am hooking my CO2 supply tank up once daily. Beer is __very__ tasty, I will be working out these bugs.

For now I would like a fixed relief valve at 5psi and a fixed relief valve at 25psi. I am thinking I can capture my high krausen in a second corny, then slap on the 5psi valve for primary ferment. When I get to 70-80% of expected attentuation I'll just change out the 5psi valve for the 25psi valve, and then crash cool when I get to or quite near expected FG.

01-07-08. I am drinking this beer, and it is good.
 
I am so glad I am not using cornies, lol. I really just fill my primary, seal it up, and tap (not blending so I only need one keg for everyone following the thread). I don't know why you had to do anything other than hook up your kegs as mentioned and seat your seals with the 5 psi from your CO2 tank. I am looking forward to hearing the whole thing through.
 
Nine days, *ME to glass.


Bwa-ha-ha.

I'll take pictures next time through. Watch for brew on 01-27-08 after I move...

Thanks again wortmonger.
 
Dig said:
I am soooo ready to start brewing with your guidance Mr. wortmonger!!!

My next brew day is schedule for 01-27-08.

If you get there first, here is the 3 corny plan.

Corny #1 is going to catch "about" 4.5 to 4.75 of cooled wort. I am thinking 2 or 3 fingers of headspace. Maybe one finger.

Off the grey of corny 1 into the black of corny 2, very short large diameter tubing.

Krausen through the short tube, 2 quarts of yeast starting hop free wort in the bottom of corny two.

a tube, grey post corny two to black post corny three. Corny three is the serving keg, with "the rest" of the five gallon batch as plain old RO water.

spunding valve on grey post corny three at 5psi.

Pitch the yeast, seal up the kegs, purge CO2 in through the black post on corny #1 to 5 psi.

3 or 4 days later pull the yeast starting corny out of the mix, crank the spunding valve up to 25psi. Let the yeast run the pressure up, they can do it.

Note the water in corny three is carbonated to the same pressure as the rest of the batch in corny one.

On day seven or eight (5?) push out of the primary fermenter into the serving keg. Once you have your FG press to 25psi at room temp from your supply tank and get that sucker in the fridge.

You should have 1 keg that needs to be cleaned, one excellent yeast starter and a keg of beer.

Another week in the fridge, this stuff is going to be "better", but Jeez Louise. I am going to do this again. I will take pics. I am sure I can find some volunteers to sample a little beer....
 
LOL, so good it turned out for you. I like the idea of the 2nd keg being a starter. I think with this being the case, the yeast would eat/filter some of the supposedly yucky stuff that comes off with the fermentation CO2 before you get to your carbonated water. I wonder though if it is smart to trifle with the small port on the Corny or a Sanke for that matter with the "wanted" krausen from this method. If it got blocked up it could be bad. This is the reason I first looked into this way of fermenting, to keep everything in and below a certain spot in the vessel. With the "now wanted/ already carbonated/blending water" in the future works, I feel like a scrubbing type filter system might be better suited in-between the primary and target kegs leaving the krausen and the rest of the yuck in the fermenter. But, I can't wait to see your experiments. I love how one person can say something and another look at it with even more ideas or ways to go with it. I can't wait to try my first lager this way, with decoction no-less, if my pressure cooker ever gets here :(. So, did you get krausen in your primary to target keg gas line? Or, did the pressure of 5 psi keep the 1 gallon head space's krausen below the gas-in port on the primary?
 
Dig said:
I am soooo ready to start brewing with your guidance Mr. wortmonger!!!

Hey Justin (DIG)!!!!!,
How much closer are we to brewing in our new equipment? LOL, hummmmm? You need to get a mash mill. Oh, and Justin......this process allows for a higher fermentation temperature without the higher fermentation temperature byproducts. So, you could ferment anywhere in your house (depending ales and lagers). I can't wait until you are up and running there brother, the system I built you should be perfect for a start-up and if you ferment this way you won't have to worry about 60 bottles every time you brew a 5 gallon batch.
 
Ok, I haven't done a blend yet with this way of brewing, but you can imagine it without the water in the serving keg if you want to. I finally decided in calling it a catchy name even though it is not by any means "my" idea. Here are some drawings of the way I brew/will be brewing.
HiPPO.JPG


and page two....
HiPPO2.JPG
 
This is quite interesting and gave me a thorough headache, lol. I am a severe newbie, but I grasp the concept and see how it would make things a heck of a lot easier.

Awesome.
 
Poindexter: could you post a parts list for the Spunding valve that you built using the parts flagged by Wortmonger?

It would be great to know what additional fittings are used to connect those parts to each other and to a soda keg.
 
Well Ron, all the pieces should be on here. I used a 1/4" brass "T" and my gauge and adjustable pressure relief fit 1/4". I think soda kegs have a 1/4" fitting on them but I am not certain.
 
Thanks! The part I'm still having trouble with is the connection of the T to the soda keg connector, which uses a pressure fitting. So far I haven't found an adapter to connect one to the other. Any ideas?
 
Sorry, I had to make a tailpiece for me to get from 1/4" from the "t" to a beer thread on my Snake tap. I finally found one but they were more than it cost me to make a couple out of nylon at a machine shop. I am not familiar with cornies as well as I am Sankes so I would be the wrong man to ask. I know they have all kinds of fittings that go on the connectors for a corny and I assume they use the same flare fitting (I believe that is what they are called). I have one that came with my beergun, but I am keeping it with the gun until I sell it one day. Ask around, or better yet post a thread asking. That is sure to get a bunch more help in finding the fitting you need.
 
r0n said:
Poindexter: could you post a parts list for the Spunding valve that you built using the parts flagged by Wortmonger?

It would be great to know what additional fittings are used to connect those parts to each other and to a soda keg.

Hey Ron, sorry for the delay. 01-19 I was moving out of Los Angeles, moved in in Dallas 01-26, still catching up.

Parts list:

adjustable pressure relief valve as described by wortmonger
SS pressure gauge as described by wortmonger

1/4" stainless steel T fitting

about 12-15 inches of 1/4" ID hose

6 of screw type hose clamps

"grey post" for Corny from LHBS with 1/4" hose barb

adapter from valve to 1/4" hose barb

adapter from pressure gauge to 1/4 hose barb

I found both of the last two at Lowe's while I was picking up 1/4" hose and the 6 hose clamps anyway, the data provided on the McMaster Carr site was correct.

I did use teflon tape on the thread to thread connections.

Sorry for the delay.
 
DOH!!

EUREKA!!

My first batch primaried at 5psi, then ferment carbed to about 18psi at room temp on the way to final force carb after cooling. The diacetyl never did mature out.

My second batch was doing great primaried at 25psi, but I started tasting butter after racking and cranking the pressure up to 35psi a couple days ago.

So I went and looked at the link Kaiser posted, post #12 this thread, link to wiki yada, yada, again. It looks like in drawing B I am supposed to ferment at "11" and then mature at "7" psi to make the diacetyl go away.

So I reduced the pressure on my current batch back to 20psi, in a couple hours I'll get it down to 15psi, and when I get home from the concert tonight I'll take it on down to 12 or so. Looking for the butter flavor to fade back out.

If I am right I'll primary the next one at 50-60 psi and then back it down to 25psi at room temp for maturation. Then crash cool...
 
Diacetyl is amplified with pressure, you have to do a rest. My first batch I had a bad recipe and it did have a buttery taste, but I haven't had this problem since. I think higher pressure isn't the way to go. Yeast are supposed to like 5 psi but start having trouble closer to 30 psi. This is why I didn't do greater pressure until the very last couple of gravity points. I fermented at 65*F so I assume this took care of the diacetyl since it stayed there a couple of days after fermentation was complete and before I crash cooled for another week. Lagers I plan on a week of rest then crash cool, but have only had 1 bad batch doing this (like I said the first, and it was a horrible recipe anyways).
 
wortmonger said:
Diacetyl is amplified with pressure.

I agree with this statement. My first batch under pressure ferment was an English Pale Ale at 1.040 OG headed for 1.014-1.012. I ran the primary at 5psig. It was awesome. Every hydro sample was tastier than the last. Best beer I had ever made.

When it got to 1.018 I cranked up the spunding valve hoping to get it to 25psi at room temp. I worked out that if i could get to 25psi room temp I would have 10-12psi in the keg once it was cooled, and I would be ready to serve. The ferment crapped out at 18psi, that is I got the final gravity before I got the pressure I wanted. So I forced it the last few psi after it was cold - but I started tasting diacetyl as the pressure went up in the end of the ferment; and the diacetyl flavor never went away.

So I went back to the wiki.

Here is the wiki article I am about to quote:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Fermenting_Lagers

Here is the relevant text I followed:

Section 2 para 6, Conventional ... German

During the secondary fermentation (a.k.a lagering) the tanks are closed and the pressure build-up is controlled by a pressure sensitive bleeder valve. This system, called Spundungsapparat, ensures the proper carbonation of the beer during lagering. The German Purity Law prohibits the use of non-fermentation CO2 for beer carbonization. It is also more economical for a brewery to use the CO2 produced during fermentation.

So it must be my fault.

So I started another batch, a Roggen. I ran the primary at 25psi. All was right in the world, I scored a very tasty example recipe of a style that is going to go with lots of different food. Again, every gravity sample was awesome.

Target carb level is similar to a hefe, so I was looking for 32-35psi at room temp, so I could cool and serve. But two hours after I turned up the spunding valve the butter flavor was back.

My diacetyl was creeping up with the pressure again. So I looked at the wiki again, and just stared and stared at this drawing. And stared.

Here is the key:

solid line: temp in Centigrade

dot/ dash dot/ dash extract%, fermentable sugars remaining

dash/ dash/ dash/ dash diacetyl amount

dot/ dot/ dash/ dot/ dot/ dash gauge pressure x 10. bar.

wikipic.jpg


So I turned the pressure down. Though it is early it seems like the diacetyl is going away. Probably I'll have to force carb the Roggen, but that beats pouring it out.

Does it seem to you that the picture and the text are pointing in two different directions?

What variables could change to make both sets of instructions correct some of the time?

TIA,
P

EDIT: 02-09-08. After six days at 12 psi the diacetyl is gone and I love my Roggen again. I'll have to force carb it the last few psi to get it to serving pressure, but I am not going to have to pour it out. The week at 12psi not only got the diacteyl back out, but now I can taste the actual rye distinct from the barley that was last aparent in the mash tun. My gravity was 1.020 when I walked the pressure down from 25psi to 12. I have a gravity sample off gassing on the counter top now.
 
You don't turn the pressure down, you lower the temperature. Lowering the temperature lowers the pressure. I do this after I am carbonated to desired level. The couple of days at this level after fermentation is through removes the diacetyl, then I crank down the temperature, not pressure. the pressure drops automatically as temperature decreases. If you have this problem again, ferment until you are a couple of points off, remove your spunding valve so you are completely sealed up. At the end of two weeks total from pitch, crash cool and re-tap with your spunding valve and remove any excess carbonation pressure via the valve. You have to give the yeast time to remove the diacetyl. Th graph shows you that when the pressure isn't going up anymore the diacetyl is starting to come down. This is also, as the graph shows,right before the sugar is used up. The graph also shows that temperature isn't decreased until after the diacetyl is almost gone. Pressure amplifies diacetyl production but its reduction is also fast. You have to let the yeast do it's thing.
 
Hey wortmonger!

Fantastic thread - even if I don't wind up pressure-fermenting, being able to use un-modified sankey kegs is neat.

Question - why is there a penny set in the top of your spunding valve?

I don't understand why if I go off your HiPPO Fermentation diagram, unless you use that for fermentation and then another sankey tap for transfer - but why not leave the tap with the sampling line attached all the time?
-keith
 
That picture was taken when I didn't have my testing line and spigot built yet. I needed a cap for the beer side while I could also read the pressure, since you have to tap to read pressure. I go with the spunding valve and the testing line and spigot all the way through the ferment now, unless I am carbonating. Once I want to carbonate, I just un-tap and let the pressure build. Also, on the HiPPO drawings I haven't had any pictures to show the setup. The pictures taken were from when I wasn't purging a serving keg during the fermentation of the primary fermentation keg. I had to purge a target serving keg with my bottle before transferring from the primary. I am going to do a documented brew in this thread once I get my brewery beautification project finished and my steam injection system.
 
Wow - thanks for the reply, I'm just a 1d10t and didn't think about that... :fro:

But seriously - I'm due to leave Korea in about a month, and I plan to move to 10 gal batches. I never even considered using un-altered sankey kegs - everyone seems to indicate they're too hard to deal with except as a HLT, MLT or kettle (keggle is an exercise my Dad did after prostate cancer! :p), so major kudos (or a 1000 internets ;)) for figuring out how to ferment with them and that they are not as hard to clean as believed.

Looking far into the future, sankeys will be with us for a LOOOOONG time, whereas corny kegs are already mostly out of production.
-keith
 
Yeah, I don't see how a Sanke is hard to clean. Most people that say that ferment in a glass carboy with an even smaller opening. I let the cleaner do the work and only have to rinse real good.
 
Hey,

Does anyone know if you can take a European Sankey, remove the spear, and install an American-style spear? Or will it fit at all?

I figure with all the keggle :p conversions, people are bound to have one laying around, and the 13.2 gal kegs are a little shorter than the 15.5 gal kegs, plus they can be found for cheaper (sometimes). As I don't want to have to keep around two types of taps (I already have ball-lock Cornys), I wondered if the Euro kegs will accept a US spear that's been shortened.
-keith
 
I think those are threaded and need to be turned out with a wrench. I think the way they fit their respective taps prevents them from being unswappable.
 
Kaiser said:
Here is something on lager brewing: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Fermenting_Lagers
the fermentation diagram (B) actually shows a pressure fermentation. Note the dot-dot-dash line, which shows the pressure.

Kai

That is a very interesting article Kaiser. I'm sure most of that data transfers generally to ales but I was curious if you've done any tests with pressurized fermentation. I know I've seen some amazing compilations of data that you've put together and this seems right up your alley.

Or does anyone have any other data on pressurized fermentation? I can't seem to find much on here or in the Wiki. It seems like there should be some good information out there to complement the TU Vienna charts.

By the way, wortmonger thanks for all your experimentation and work on this topic. I'm excited to put some of your knowledge to use.
 
Thanks, I hope to have a lot more information as soon as my other projects are finished and I can brew again. I will document a more accurate and detailed example, with a possible video but it will probably be pictures.
 
explosivebeer said:
but I was curious if you've done any tests with pressurized fermentation.

No, I only do the secondary and lagering under pressure. I don't have the means for a primary under pressure and feel that there would be to much maintanance necessecary as you may want to adjust the pressure during the fermentation based on the current attenuation of the beer.

But wotrmonger should have a lot to share.

Kai
 
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