New mash tun manifold: where to solder?

Hello everyone.

I'm new to all grain brewing and have built a mash tun manifold following some of the sage advice on this community. I've read a lot of threads where seasoned brewers advise not to solder the whole manifold so that it can be taken apart and be cleaned.

My question is this: where should I solder and where shouldn't i?







What is the alternative to soldering? Just dry fitting?

Thank you for your help!

My manifold is similar, and I don't have any solder. Just dry fit. Your not really worried about having it watertight inside the mash, your just filtering. It's super easy to take apart and clean. Just be careful if you dump the grain out. Parts tend to get lost...

Yes, as long as your dry fit is snug, you should be fine. Take care when stirring the mash so as not to dislodge the joints--I learned that lesson on my first AG using a similar manifold

If the joints can slide apart while in the cooler, i would definitely solder some of the joints for some rigidity or modify it further so that it can't fall apart. Bottom line however careful you try to be it will fall apart at some point.

Consider changing your corner elbows with T's and add another short section of pipe with an end cap to bring it completely to the edge. That way it can't fall apart while in the cooler. My cooler and manifold is much bigger but never had an issue using the changes i mention. Since mine is bigger i did solder some joints but it still can almost be completely disassembled for cleaning and storage.

Small stainless screws

I take a pair of pliers and very carefully put a slight crimp on the end of each fitting so the dry fit is very snug. You can take it apart for cleaning and it won't come apart while mashing.

On mine I soldered the longs sides together and the cross pieces are dry fit. That way you don't have to deal with assembling the tees and elbows every time. I also tie a string around it to keep the dry fit pieces from coming apart - having it fall apart mid-mash once is enough

DRY FIT 100%

You can slightly clamp the ends but you'll be thankful when it fills with husks and you can take it apart to clean.

Just tie it both ways with copper wire.

It looks like a great manifold! I wouldn't mess with the size; it looks just right

I have the exact same manifold. Dry fit all the way.

Thanks everyone for the advice. I chose to solder the three end pieces and leave the slotted tubes for dry fit. This way the whole thing can be taken apart and soaked/snaked if need be. Here are some photos of the finished product:











Here is the connection inside the cooler. I didn't have much space for the tubing to the ball valve (literally only like 1.5" of tubing with hose clamps), so this piece is staying put.






You guys are great. Thanks again.

This is gonna be stupid question, I just know it. What is the manifold for? I dont all-grain brew yet so please excuse my ignorance. Thank you.

Marmike600 said:

This is gonna be stupid question, I just know it. What is the manifold for? I dont all-grain brew yet so please excuse my ignorance. Thank you.

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It's used to drain the wort out and leave the grain in.

heat expansion helps keep the pieces tight while mashing

Marmike600 said:

This is gonna be stupid question, I just know it. What is the manifold for? I dont all-grain brew yet so please excuse my ignorance. Thank you.

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if you look at the pics in the post before yours, you can see the slots in the pipes. that's to let the wort flow out of the tun while blocking the grain.

I just soldiered from the valve to the manifold. The T and the rest are dry fit only. It has not been a problem for 20 AG batches.

mine looks very similar. never soldered any of it. it stays tight. I like it unsoldered so I can pull it apart and clean all the parts with a bottle brush

Another option is to dry fit, then use a center punch and hammer and dink each joint. This way the fit is always tight and there is never a worry of it coming apart during the mash.

THe only problems I've had with mine is at the valve - I hold it together with some copper wire. I may soldier at that point, but I'm dry fit all the way otherwise.

I've had my manifold dry fitted for years and have never had any problems with it coming apart.

T_Dub said:

Just tie it both ways with copper wire.

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+1 on this!

I was just contemplating the possibility of a simple metal jig to hold it together during use. The wire is too easy..... thanks for saving me a few brain cells!

If doing DIY tun/manifold then a dry fit is a must for cleaning and clogs.

Stainless braided mesh tubing is a recommended alternative in the DIY sphere *as* the manifold. They can be purchased in 1/2" tube fine screen in 304/316 and vorlauf's better/faster than most other interim barriers due to the fine mesh. They never clog and can be replaced for $4.00. No soldering required and they can be removed and boiled for cleaning in a few seconds.

My false bottom never needs assembly/disassembly, never comes apart during the mash either.

JK you manifolders. I admire your DIY mojo. But anyone reading this and not decided yet should at least know there are some very affordable false bottom options available out there. Copper is expensive too.

TripleHopped said:

I've had my manifold dry fitted for years and have never had any problems with it coming apart.

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I jinxed myself - put partial manifold in without the copper wire this weekend (doesn't have a perfect fit in the mash tun). Half hour of hand scalding and finagling later I got it to work. During cleanup I found the entire drip array jammed full too. Le sigh...

Long story short - manifolds work a lot better when they're full fit.

jbaysurfer said:

My false bottom never needs assembly/disassembly, never comes apart during the mash either. .


JK you manifolders. I admire your DIY mojo. But anyone reading this and not decided yet should at least know there are some very affordable false bottom options available out there. Copper is expensive too.

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There aren't many (any) good square ones though, or rectangular with fun angles. So it's either manifold or braided hose.

brewguyver said:

I jinxed myself - put partial manifold in without the copper wire this weekend (doesn't have a perfect fit in the mash tun). Half hour of hand scalding and finagling later I got it to work. During cleanup I found the entire drip array jammed full too. Le sigh...

Long story short - manifolds work a lot better when they're full fit.



There aren't many (any) good square ones though, or rectangular with fun angles. So it's either manifold or braided hose.

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Depending on the dimensions of your cooler though, one of these could still work:
http://www.homebrewing.org/product....m=ProductAds&gclid=CIjG8PjlzroCFap7QgodPToAeQ

Maybe not ideal though. Like I said, I have no problem with the DIY mojo..but I built out a copper manifold for my round Igloo cooler before realizing I coulda done this for cheaper, so I thought I'd mention it.

You could just take a punch and put a ding on each joint as well. That's what I did with mine after a manifold malfunction and haven't had a problem since.

jbaysurfer said:

Depending on the dimensions of your cooler though, one of these could still work:
http://www.homebrewing.org/product....m=ProductAds&gclid=CIjG8PjlzroCFap7QgodPToAeQ

Maybe not ideal though. Like I said, I have no problem with the DIY mojo..but I built out a copper manifold for my round Igloo cooler before realizing I coulda done this for cheaper, so I thought I'd mention it.

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Just ordered one of those, they look great.

Eugenio said:

Just ordered one of those, they look great.

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Glad to have helped...don't want to hijack the thread though....shoutout to the diy brewer spirit in this thread. I love the punch suggestion heebs!