Brewers Hardware RIMS Tube Adapter ordering question.

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Beerens

Beerens

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I am looking to invest in a tri-clover RIMS tube from Brewers Hardware. The first ordering choice is between a 1.5" Tri Clover X 1" NPS Fitting and a 1.5" Tri Clover X 1" NPS Element Adapter.

The fitting without the adapter says that "YOU MUST PROVIDE A GROUND AND A COVER TO COVER THE ELEMENT CONNECTIONS! Failure to do so could easily result in electrocution and death!"

This option is $40 cheaper and I was wondering how difficult it would be to ground it and cover the element connections?

Is it worth the $40 to get the adapter? Is it safer?

I don't understand what is the difference... If someone has a picture of the fitting without the adapter I would appreciate seeing what it looks like.
 
I use a hose clamp to secure the ground, PVC for a cap.

image-4170683791.jpg
 
Things always runs slower here in the south!! This "damn yankee" is finding that out the longer I am stuck, ooops live here.
:cross:
 
I actually pulled it out today to replace the element with the 1500 watt Ultra low density elements I finally got in today.

That Stainless element was nice though; and I've brewed two batches through it and after cleaning is still nice and shiny. the new ULWD are a dull black :/
 
Thanks for the quick responses and the pic.

I love the hose clamp! Is the PVC cover attached in any way? Will it keep water out? Did you just drill a hole in the end to allow the wire through?
 
I have a grommet in the hole I drilled in the cap. I just tape the end-cap down with electrical tape.

is it waterproof? Hell noes.

is it drip proof? yup.

did it cost $40 less? Hells yeah. :)
 
I just purchased this exact item. 5 days to recieve it. I bought the adapter cover and it was WELL WORTH the 40 bucks or whatever i paid.
 
Purpose of the adapter seems to me to provide a messy looking installation :p
I like just using a metal outdoor box to mount the element, and ground the box inside like its set up to. (kal type)
On my 120v I use just a single gang extension box.
 
My **** doesn't need to be all bling :) I was going to do that gang box but it was pretty bulky and prevented me from mounting my RIMS tube where I wanted it.

The PVC cap is pretty streamline, and I don't mind it at all.

My second RIMS tube that I use on the HLT is not the Brewers Hardware model but the one made from standard SS piping (Different Vendor). It was actually harder to ground and required me to weld a bit of threaded bar onto the tube.

I've seen folks on here fill various items with epoxy/JBWeld or Silicone. Everything from the plastic paint-can caps to open PVC pipe. Whatever works to keep any spray/spill off the contacts and allow you to ground to the device.
​
 
Beerens said:
I am looking to invest in a tri-clover RIMS tube from Brewers Hardware. The first ordering choice is between a 1.5" Tri Clover X 1" NPS Fitting and a 1.5" Tri Clover X 1" NPS Element Adapter.

The fitting without the adapter says that "YOU MUST PROVIDE A GROUND AND A COVER TO COVER THE ELEMENT CONNECTIONS! Failure to do so could easily result in electrocution and death!"

This option is $40 cheaper and I was wondering how difficult it would be to ground it and cover the element connections?

Is it worth the $40 to get the adapter? Is it safer?

I don't understand what is the difference... If someone has a picture of the fitting without the adapter I would appreciate seeing what it looks like.
Click to expand...

A buddy and I both bought the RIMS tube with the more expensive adapter (bought a second adapter for my brew kettle conversion too). Actually working on wiring it up today. Let me know if you have any questions on that adapter.
 
I don't think Derrin offered two options when I purchased my RIMS tube. But the grounding lug is a must, IMO. I too use a PVC end cap, but added a flexible coupler. Works great. I used JB weld to seal the power cord in the end cap.

2012-04-06_11-20-45_138.jpg
 
Only real complaints I have about the adapter cover are:

1) Not a lot of room to work. I already have a 1-1/2" 1/2" drive socket, and it won't fit inside the opening to snug down the heating element, so I have to go get a cheapo water heater socket wrench.

2) Not a lot of room to work. The ground lug has to be removable to facilitate the removal of the heating element. The screw has a 9/64" hex socket head, and uses 3/8" nuts, so unless you have a very slim wrench, or are very good with needle-nosed pliers, tightening the ground lug can be a pain in the butt.

BrewersHardwareRIMS_720x960.png
 

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