Want to brew my first iipa

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Soldevi

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The only thing I don't have is a way to oxygenate my wort.

I do have a small aquarium pump but no stone. Should I attempt this brew without an oxygen tank? Or should I wait?

Og is anticipated to be around 1.087.

Cheers
 
you can oxygenate by pouring the wort back and forth between your brewpot and fermenter a couple of times after its cooled
 
Do you think I'm going to get enough oxygen in the wort that way for a healthy fermentation? I'm gonna need this to finish pretty dry, and will be using liquid yeast.
 
Soldevi said:
The only thing I don't have is a way to oxygenate my wort. I do have a small aquarium pump but no stone. Should I attempt this brew without an oxygen tank? Or should I wait? Og is anticipated to be around 1.087. Cheers

If you are going to do beer that big without pure o2 then you will have problems with attenuation and off flavors. It is impossible to get the required amount of dissolved o2 into solution by any other means, including shaking, splashing, aquarium pumps etc. This information can be found in multiple credible brewing resources with a little bit of research. The book "Yeast" and the Wyeast website have great information about the benefits of optimum o2 levels, as well as information on how much oxygen the various methods will provide. There are plenty of other resources that cover this as well.

However, I see people say that they do big beers without pure o2 all the time on HBT. I have done it both ways and can say from experience that big beers attenuate better and taste better with pure o2. Final gravity is reached faster as well. You certainly CAN do a beer that big without pure o2, but it's really not the best way to do things and you may be posting here a week later asking why your FG is so high.
 
If you are going to do beer that big without pure o2 then you will have problems with attenuation and off flavors. You certainly CAN do a beer that big without pure o2, but it's really not the best way to do things and you may be posting here a week later asking why your FG is so high.

This is exactly what I'm worried about. A beer like this is not really cheap to brew and if I will have a greater possibly of success with the tank then its probably time I get one.
 
Soldevi said:
This is exactly what I'm worried about. A beer like this is not really cheap to brew and if I will have a greater possibly of success with the tank then its probably time I get one.

Yeah. Don't cut corners. You will still end up making beer by splashing or shaking or whatever, but the chances for headaches, problems, and a subpar batch are high. You are right by wanting to use pure o2 for this beer. Trust me, you won't regret your decision.
 
1.087 isn't that high, you will be completely fine without pure O2. you can always pitch extra to overcome lack of ideal amount of oxygen if you're still worried
 
dcp27 said:
1.087 isn't that high, you will be completely fine without pure O2.

1.087 is absolutely high enough of an OG to have less than 8ppm of dissolved o2 in solution.

dcp27 said:
you can always pitch extra to overcome lack of ideal amount of oxygen if you're still worried

Yeah. Good advice. Way to teach him how to brew high OG beers like a hillbilly and keep him from using pure o2, which is unquestionably the best way to oxygenate.
 
1.087 isn't that high, you will be completely fine without pure O2. you can always pitch extra to overcome lack of ideal amount of oxygen if you're still worried

I agree. I don't have a pure oxygen system myself. If you shake, stir, agitate the wort you can get 8 ppm or so into the wort. While it's not as high as you'd get with pure o2, it will work out.

Much more important in my opinion is to make sure to make an appropriately sized starter. Use a yeast pitching calculator like like mrmalty.com or yeastcalc.com to ensure the proper amount of yeast. That should work out great for that OG.
 
Yeah. Good advice. Way to teach him how to brew high OG beers like a hillbilly and keep him from using pure o2, which is unquestionably the best way to oxygenate.

I must brew like a hillbilly and my beers must suck. It's a good thing you're not forced to drink my nasty higher OG beers!
 
Yooper said:
I must brew like a hillbilly and my beers must suck. It's a good thing you're not forced to drink my nasty higher OG beers!

I didn't mean that people that don't use pure o2 are hillbillies. I meant that the reasoning behind over pitching to compensate for the lack of adequate o2 is hillbillyish. I tried to give him a relatively cheap and easy best practice and he was willing to embrace it. Why set him back a step?

I already said earlier that beer can be made from high OG worts without pure o2, but the chances of problems are higher especially if the rest of fermentation isn't dialed in. I also mentioned that I have done it both ways and got better results with pure o2. It's not like I'm making this stuff up out of thin air.
 
I appreciate the responses, I understand I could brew the beer without the pure o2 so now I'm kind of wondering why I asked the question. I know that if I continue with this hobby I will want or need it someday anyway.

Maybe I just wanted someone to say yes do it so I'd just make the purchase. I have tried one other somewhat high gravity beer that came out OK.

This will be a brew with a few "news". Biggest stepped starter, biggest mash, lowest mash temp, the use of sugar, a pound of hops, and the use of o2.

You always want something like this to go well.
 
I didn't mean that people that don't use pure o2 are hillbillies. I meant that the reasoning behind over pitching to compensate for the lack of adequate o2 is hillbillyish. I tried to give him a relatively cheap and easy best practice and he was willing to embrace it. Why set him back a step?

I'm not denying the effectiveness of using pure O2, just simply offering another means to an ends. While it may be the best practice to use pure O2, not using one in this circumstance will more than likely not be an issue. no need to be all hoity toity cawse you git that dem there fancy O2 system
 
Dissolved oxygen is not a requirement if the yeast culture is large and healthy enough. Yeast do not respire in the presence of glucose concentrations in excess of the Crabtree threshold. All brewing worts contain glucose concentrations greater than the Crabtree threshold; therefore, yeast immediately switch into fermentative mode where they convert a carbon source (wort sugars) into carbon dioxide gas and ethanol.

The only reason yeast cells need oxygen at the beginning of a fermentation is for cell repair and replication. Dissolved oxygen is shunted towards the biosynthesis of ergosterol and unstaturated fatty acids (UFAs) via the respirative metabolic pathway (this process should not be confused with normal cellular respiration). The sterols and UFAs that the mother cells store at the beginning of fermentation are shared with all of their daughter cells, resulting in depletion by the end of fermentation. Pitching a large, healthy yeast culture at high krausen greatly reduces the need for dissolved oxygen because the yeast cells still have sufficient ergosterol and unsaturated fatty acid (UFA) stores, and the number of cell divisions that must occur before the maximum cell density is reached is significantly lower than when a smaller starter is pitched.

Many amateur brewers like to wait until a starter ferments and settles out before pitching. However, this practice results in the pitching of a yeast biomass in which the sterols and UFAs have all but been depleted. A brewer should always attempt to pitch a starter at high krausen.
 
While I agree that well aerated wort generally will guarantee a healthier fermentation, I"m not sure that there is a huge gain in 8 ppm vs 10 ppm. You can generally get 8 ppm in wort by really working at shaking, aerating with a venturi tube, etc. 10 ppm is only possible with a pure o2 set up. But I don't think the difference will make much of an improvement in the beer, if all other requirements are met.

A too-high concentration of o2 is detrimental to yeast health, so it's important to consider that. Also, some yeast strains use and need more dissolved 02 than other strains, so I hate a blanket statement with "you must do this......" to have a good result.

Ideally, you'd have 8-10 ppm of dissolved 02 in the wort, but without an 02 meter, we're only guestimating anyway. And I really believe that 8 ppm is enough in all but the rarest cases, assuming the other requirements are met.

Most homebrewers underpitch as well as underaerate. I think underpitching has far more consequences than a lack of aeration in most cases. OG really isn't a factor in how much oxygen a wort needs, not really. What is a factor is the amount of yeast cells needed for optimum fermentation, and of course the OG generally does play a part in that when calculating the amount of yeast cells needed so more oxygenation is a good idea. Still, 8 ppm is often adequate and that's the most a homebrewer using room air will be able to incorporate into the wort anyway, so that's what I do.
 
This is the last thing that I am going to post on this thread because I'm practically getting crucified for preaching the importance of oxygen in fermentation.

The figure below is from "Yeast" and it is as clear as day that ideal o2 rates have a noticeable effect on fermentation. I wanted to help the OP when I suggested that he use pure o2. Maybe next time ill just tell him to shake it -.-

image-2720813731.jpg
 
It is impossible to get the required amount of dissolved o2 into solution by any other means, including shaking, splashing, aquarium pumps etc..


I like virtually 99% of all Australian homebrewers have never had access to pure o2 as the cheap equipment available to US brewers is not available here. I have been making beer for 35 years and many are around 8+% ABV and really I have never had issue with stuck fermentation and off flavours.

Personally I have a paint stirrer attached to a cordless drill which I use during the cooling phase to move the wort passed the IC and again once the wort is into the fermentation vessel before pitching the yeast.

Have never measured O2 levels and hence have no idea of the level of oxygen achieved . I stir the crap out of it and end up with 25% froth level. My gut feeling is it is enough(it is the best I can do anyway) and the yeast tell me the same.
 
This is the last thing that I am going to post on this thread because I'm practically getting crucified for preaching the importance of oxygen in fermentation.

The figure below is from "Yeast" and it is as clear as day that ideal o2 rates have a noticeable effect on fermentation. I wanted to help the OP when I suggested that he use pure o2. Maybe next time ill just tell him to shake it -.-

View attachment 168276

Haha lok at u! Got some fanzy info from all them "books"...

Sorry I couldn't help it.

Relax man. I know I'm just jumping in here. But I think everybody just got upset because you called it the hillbilly way. Not everyone has access to pure o2 or is willing to fork out the money to get a system (I know there not a fortune) if they only brew a high og beer every now and then. So you give the person another option to work with. Nobody is saying oxygen is flat out not important. It's just not required. It may make the final product better, but it won't be horrible with out it. You have to remember some people juat can't do things the best way 100% of the time. I do use pure o2 on my beer but I also enjoyed my beer long before I bought the set up. :)

Also I think you crucified people first with the hillbilly comment...
 
This is the last thing that I am going to post on this thread because I'm practically getting crucified for preaching the importance of oxygen in fermentation.

The figure below is from "Yeast" and it is as clear as day that ideal o2 rates have a noticeable effect on fermentation. I wanted to help the OP when I suggested that he use pure o2. Maybe next time ill just tell him to shake it -.-

View attachment 168276

Yes, o2 is important.

But look again at the graph you posted. Look at the difference between 8 ppm (the max you can get in by aerating without 02) and 9.2 ppm (with 90 seconds of 02). And this line written right above it: "Increasing the oxygen level past 9 ppm did increase the pace of fermentation for the first three days, but both beers ended up at the same terminal gravity".

In other words, you have proven MY point and not yours. :D

Seriously, no one is arguing that aeration isn't important and especially in higher OG beers. It just ruffles feathers than you call my way "the hillbilly way" when I may have 8 ppm of o2 in my wort and you may have 9-10 ppm. Both are acceptable, and another way to do things.

Pitching more yeast than many homebrewers do generally has more of an impact on fermentation than aeration (or lack of) and that is important to note.
 
My $0.02:

I have always paid careful attention to pitch rates and yest health. I started with the shake and pray method and moved on to an aquarium pump (filtered air for 20min), and made good beer this way for a long time, even those starting with high density worts.

However, once I decided to get a pure O2 setup, my beers found another gear in flavor and quality. Fermentations had reduced lag, and the final product just tasted more "professional". Flavors were cleaner and brighter. It is hard to put into words, but it was a eureka moment for me.

All beers benefited from pure O2, but the high gravity ales and every lager saw the most improvement.

Bottom line is that I am a strong believer in using pure oxygen, based on my own extensive experience making the same beers both ways. Most people don't pitch enough yeast at the peak of activity to overcome the downsides of using inadequate amounts of O2. It is not absolutely necessary to make good beer, but it does make a difference in taking it to the next level in terms of flavor and quality.
 
Much more important in my opinion is to make sure to make an appropriately sized starter. Use a yeast pitching calculator like like mrmalty.com or yeastcalc.com to ensure the proper amount of yeast. That should work out great for that OG.

Agree 100%.

And if anyone wants to call not using pure o2 the "hillbilly way", then I'm fine with that. I run a WV-based nanobrewery after all and we've never used pure o2 and it works out just fine for us.

Welp, just about to finish up this batch and head out to the porch to sip on some shine and polish my shotgun...
 
I put my wort into a carboy and cover the hole and shake the hell out of it. Has never failed and i find no need for all the fancy expensive stuff.
 
Anyone who believes that yeast cells need dissolved oxygen should read the "Olive Oil" paper (http://www.brewcrazy.com/hull-olive-oil-thesis.pdf).

As I stated earlier, yeast cells do not respire in the presence of glucose concentrations above the Crabtree threshold; however, they will switch into respirative reproduction mode after consuming all of the available glucose and all of the sugars that they can reduce to glucose if dissolved oxygen remains in solution. The phenomenon is known as diauxic shift. During diauxic shift yeast cells use ethanol as their carbon source. Diauxic shift is one of the reasons why we do not want to aerate green beer.

www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3133784/

"The preferred source of carbon and energy for yeast cells is glucose. When yeast cells are grown in liquid cultures, they metabolize glucose predominantly by glycolysis, releasing ethanol in the medium. When glucose becomes limiting, the cells enter diauxic shift characterized by decreased growth rate and by switching metabolism from glycolysis to aerobic utilization of ethanol. "

The shift from anaerobic glycolysis (fermentation) to aerobic utilization of ethanol as a carbon source is why using pure O2 without a dissolved O2 meter is like playing Russian roulette with one's beer.
 
I have to admit, this thread went completely the opposite direction than I though it was going to. After reading all the articles online about pure o2 and aeration I thought for sure everyone was going to say yes.

I said earlier that I do have an aquarium pump so I feel better about using it for this batch. I still plan on getting an o2 system but you guys have made me feel better about having to run out and get one right this minute.

I will make a big stepped starter and slightly over pitch this batch.
 
The shift from anaerobic glycolysis (fermentation) to aerobic utilization of ethanol as a carbon source is why using pure O2 without a dissolved O2 meter is like playing Russian roulette with one's beer.

Please bring your considerable expertise to bear on this question:

At the standard recommended 1.5L/min through a 2um sintered stone using industrial grade O2 into 5 gallons of medium density (~ 1.060) wort, what is threshold at which one crosses over into the danger zone of oxygen oversaturation?

Time - 0.5min? 1min? 2min? more??

Concentration - 10ppm? 12ppm? Higher??

Yes, it depends on yeast health, strain, and pitch rate. Let's assume for the sake of argument we're talking healthy yeast at 1M cells/ml/*Plato of standard Chico ale yeast (WLP001, WY1056) for an ale fermentation at 67F.

Thanks.
 
Yooper said:
It just ruffles feathers than you call my way "the hillbilly way" when I may have 8 ppm of o2 in my wort and you may have 9-10 ppm. Both are acceptable, and another way to do things.

I said I would refrain from posting to this thread but I feel that an apology is in order, and I also feel the need to defend myself from my own comments one last time. I shouldn't have been more clear with what I meant when I said "hillbilly", or better yet, I shouldn't have said what I said. For that, I am sorry if I offended anyone. But again, here is what I meant, as stated earlier:

IL1kebeer said:
I didn't mean that people that don't use pure o2 are hillbillies. I meant that the reasoning behind over pitching to compensate for the lack of adequate o2 is hillbillyish

Again, I shouldn't have been name calling at all and I can see why people were offended. I still disagree wih over pitching as a good solution to under oxygenating. I certainly won't call it hillbillyish anymore. To me, it's the same as putting 87 octane gas in a car that requires 91 octane. Of course it will work, but your engine will not perform as well as if you put 91 octane in. I believe that the same can be said for yeast and oxygen. That's why I made a stink about it.

Yooper said:
Pitching more yeast than many homebrewers do generally has more of an impact on fermentation than aeration (or lack of) and that is important to note.

I agree 100%

Sorry again if I offended anyone. I was trying to help and ended up being a jerk. I'll be more careful with my words in the future and disagree in a more tasteful manner.
 
If you are brewing on a professional level you should definitely be using a pure oxygen system.

Never had the need. We always pitch an appropriately sized starter onto our batches and aerate wort through splashing. We've never had a problem getting fermentation started and running strong in less than 24 hours, no matter the OG. Our bulkiest offering is 1.078 and it still starts off just fine.

We've had a million other items we've had to invest in and this is something that has proved to be an extraneous and unnecessary expense for us thus far. Maybe someday when we size up we'll look into using o2, but definitely not for a while.
 
Anyone who believes that yeast cells need dissolved oxygen should read the "Olive Oil" paper (http://www.brewcrazy.com/hull-olive-oil-thesis.pdf).

As I stated earlier, yeast cells do not respire in the presence of glucose concentrations above the Crabtree threshold; however, they will switch into respirative reproduction mode after consuming all of the available glucose and all of the sugars that they can reduce to glucose if dissolved oxygen remains in solution. The phenomenon is known as diauxic shift. During diauxic shift yeast cells use ethanol as their carbon source. Diauxic shift is one of the reasons why we do not want to aerate green beer.

www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3133784/

"The preferred source of carbon and energy for yeast cells is glucose. When yeast cells are grown in liquid cultures, they metabolize glucose predominantly by glycolysis, releasing ethanol in the medium. When glucose becomes limiting, the cells enter diauxic shift characterized by decreased growth rate and by switching metabolism from glycolysis to aerobic utilization of ethanol. "

The shift from anaerobic glycolysis (fermentation) to aerobic utilization of ethanol as a carbon source is why using pure O2 without a dissolved O2 meter is like playing Russian roulette with one's beer.

Just out of curiosity, how many high gravity batches have you brewed using the olive oil method and what were the results?
 
Me. About 20 brews.

I let the wort run down the inside of the carboy, then add a small drop of olive oil.

I also pitch enough yeast.

I get good final gravity and the beers have turned out nice.

From any tech info I can find, there's no good oxygenation of the wort at any time of the process.

Cheers!
 
Some of the info IlIkebeer and I are referring to comes from the new(ish) book, "Yeast" by Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff.

It's a great read, and I recommend it to all brewers.

One of the things I read last night talked about olive oil vs oxygen and that while the FG was the same, the esters and sterols produced were not. I don't have the book in front of me right now, but I do believe that the jist was that the flavor of a traditionally oxygenated wort was preferable, at last in the succeeding generations.

I will agree that oxygen vs no oxygen would be generally preferable- but I really don't know if at a homebrew level with no dissolved oxygen meter that I could tell the difference between 8 ppm of 02 vs 10 ppm. And the graph linked to above states no differences in FG. Of course, things like esters are important to the final flavor of the beer and perhaps there would be slightly less esters with 10 ppm.

For me, I make most of my beers under 1.075 most of the time. Splashing/shaking/venturi devices work great for me and I get a huge foamy head on my wort before pitching. I also pitch the proper amount of yeast at the proper temperature and ferment at the proper temperature. It's a combination of all these things that combine to make a great beer, and so I would say that an 02 system would be cool to have, but for me it would be another thing to sanitize and mess around with. My March pumps send my wort at a high velocity into the fermenter, so I haven't worried much at all about underoxygenation.
 
It's a combination of all these things that combine to make a great beer...

Agreed.

Yeah, most of my brews start under 1.070.

I know I'd never detect the difference in the esters and sterols from either method.

Using an extra 1/4 ounce of different hops for 5 more minutes, or mashing 3 degrees cooler/warmer or adding 4 ounces too much crystal, etc., etc., etc., will have greater noticeable impact. To me anyway.

I (and most home brewers) simply can't control the process well enough. We're in the small numbers (batch size) statistics and the variables are many. Some are strong.

I just figure I'll give the little buggers their fat and not even think/worry about O2. So far, no complaints from them.

Cheers!
 
I have read somewhere about Sierra Nevada using the olive oil method. That really discouraged home brewers from using it. They said with the small amount they used in full commercial batches would be hard to duplicate on a home brew scale. Even a drop would be using to much by a large amount and that it could negatively effect the beer. I need to dig that up somewhere....

But if it works there are no issues. I have never tried the oil method. I am curious about it.
 
Just out of curiosity, how many high gravity batches have you brewed using the olive oil method and what were the results?

Using olive oil at the level that I brew these days is impractical because the amount needed is so small that it would be difficult to measure (I currently brew 1 to 3-gallon batches).

The point that I was trying to make is that yeast cells do not respire in the presence of glucose levels higher than the Crabtree threshold (which all beer worts exceed). The reason yeast cells need oxygen at the beginning of fermentation is for sterol and unsaturated fatty acid (UFA) biosynthesis. If the yeast culture pitched into one's wort has adequate stores of these compounds and the number cells pitched is large enough that maximum cell density is only a couple of generations away from the mother cells, then dissolved oxygen requirements drop radically (the reason why properly pitched dry yeast does not require aeration). If we supply sterols and UFAs directly to the yeast, the need to aerate goes away. This information is backed up by peer-reviewed science, as well as by an experiment that was performed at White Labs (http://www.whitelabs.com/blog/olive-oil-vs-aeration-experiment).

We need to remember that fermentation is an anaerobic process (known formally as anaerobic glycolysis). All cell reproduction in normal and high gravity worts is anaerobic. The ability of a yeast culture to reach terminal gravity in a high gravity wort is a function of the sterol and UFA reserves found in the mother cells and how close to maximum cell density a culture is when pitched. The mother cells share their sterol and UFA reserves with all of their offspring. As sterols and UFA reserves fall, yeast cell membranes become less permeable. In essence, yeast cells do not stop fermenting because there is not enough dissolved oxygen. Yeast cells stop fermenting because they can no longer pass nutrients and waste products through their cell walls. It's the same reason why yeast cells stop fermenting above a certain alcohol level. However, in that case, the cells lose their ability to pass nutrients and waste products through their cell walls because they become dehydrated due to the fact that ethanol is highly hygroscopic.

Needing to aerate wort with pure oxygen in order to reach terminal gravity is a sign that one is pitching too little yeast. The oxygen that is not taken up by the mother cells is taken up by the daughter cells in order to support greater numbers of divisions. I do not have attenuation problems. I have over-attenuation problems because I pitch a large number of healthy cells into my beers. Most of my beers run 7%+ ABV, which isn't exactly low gravity beer. Other than the miniscule amount of oxygen that my wort picks up while draining from my kettle into one of my primary fermentation vessels, I do not aerate my wort at all. All I do is pitch a yeast culture that was grown under aerobic conditions; therefore, the culture is very healthy going into the primary.

I have included a few yeast-related photos from my brewery for those who may believe that I am here to troll HBT. The reason why I came to this forum in the first place is because it appears to be epicenter of the yeast rinsing movement on the Internet. Those who have read my postings know I how I feel about the voodoo-laden process of rinsing yeast with boiled tap water.


My Current Culture Collection (none of the cultures are Wyeast or White Labs cultures)

MyCurrentBank1_zps31b27281.jpg



Cultures that I Isolated (Plated) from Brewery Sources

CulturesIIsolated1_zps0e5d67cf.jpg


The culture tube with "HAR" on the Parafilm in the photo shown above is Harpoon's yeast culture. The "GEN:1" on some of slants denotes that a slant was inoculated directly from a plated cultured (I am in the process of rebuilding my bank after a long hiatus from the hobby). The number to right of the colon is incremented every time I subculture a slant to another blank slant (i.e., the next subculture will be GEN:2). This number is not a yeast generation number. It is a culture generation number. Each slant was inoculated with one or more yeast colonies from a plate, each of which was the offspring of a single yeast cell.

Culture Collection Cultures

CCyeast1_zpsdc754fa7.jpg


The cultures shown above were acquired from major research-oriented culture collections. These yeast cultures originally cost between $71.00 and $300.00 each. None are available from Wyeast, White Labs, or any other commercial yeast source. I like to purchase cultures from collections on solid media (i.e., plates or slants). However, some collections only supply yeast in lyophilized form in glass ampules. A lyophilized culture looks like a white spec of dust.

A Plated Yeast Culture

SandNYeast_zpsc0067d33.jpg


The plate shown above contains Scottish and Newcastle's Tyneside culture. The well-isolated round colonies are all each the offspring of a single yeast cell; therefore, they are single-cell isolates. Single-cell isolates are also known as pure cultures (Emil Hansen pioneered single-cell isolation at Carlsberg Laboratory). I streaked this plate a few days ago. Only well-isolated colonies that exhibit good morphology will be used to inoculate slants using aseptic transfer technique (one colony per slant for this culture).

40ml Sterile Starters

MediaBottles_zpseed0bf41.jpg


The container shown above contains 100ml media bottles that each contain 40mls of absolutely sterile wort. The 40mls of media in each bottle was autoclaved in the bottle. I use these bottles when propagating a yeast culture from a slant. Using absolutely sterile wort to propagate yeast from a slant allows me to start a culture using only a loopful or two of yeast without fear of infection.

A 40ml Sterile Starter

MediaBottle_zpsdff03f83.jpg


The bubbles in the starter shown above are from moving it. The media is 100% sterile because it was autoclaved for 15 minutes at temperature and pressure levels necessary to achieve sterilization. The stripes on the autoclave tape shown below indicate that these levels were achieved inside of my pressure cooker. This piece of autoclave tape basically looked like plain old masking tape before the media bottles were placed into my pressure cooker (it was attached to one of the bottles).

AutoclaveTape_zps3748bf63.jpg


In closing, while most brewers use yeast to brew, brewing is something that I do to get to play with yeast. Playing with brewer's yeast is what kept me heavily engaged in the hobby for the decade spanning early 1993 through early 2003, and it's what brought me back to the hobby after a ten and a half year hiatus.
 
I must be the luckiest person in the world. 90% of my beers are north of 1.090, rarely use O2, prefer filling one bucket from another bucket times 4 for aeration, and the beer always comes out great...
 
EarlyAmateurZymurgist,

That is impressive. You say that you don't aerate at all, do you pitch your yeast according to the well known calculators? Or do you pitch at a higher amount?
1.25m/ml or greater?
 
I too would also be interested to hear what your pitch rate is EAZ.

You present a lot of sound theory, but I wonder how much of this (sufficient sterol production via areobically grown starters) is observed in practice for the average homebrewer. I would also like to know at what concentration O2 becomes detrimental (as you indicated in post #25) for the home and professional brewers around the world who follow this well-established practice.

It would seem that if the commonly accepted 8-12ppm concentration of O2 prior to pitching would be good practice to ensure sufficient sterol production, if that concentration is below the threshold for "the shift from anaerobic glycolysis (fermentation) to aerobic utilization of ethanol as a carbon source".

Thanks.
 
You say that you don't aerate at all, do you pitch your yeast according to the well known calculators? Or do you pitch at a higher amount?
1.25m/ml or greater?

Based on my current yeast propagation method, I would estimate that I pitch around 1.1m very active cells per milliliter per degree Plato for ales. One would basically have to pitch a fresh vial of White Labs yeast per gallon in order to achieve that pitching rate with a 17.5P (1.072) wort. Pitching a single vial of White Labs yeast into five gallons of 12P (1.048) wort equates to less than 0.5m cells per milliliter per degree Plato, and 0.3m cells per milliliter per degree Plato with a 17.5P wort (and that's being very generous with the cell count in a White Labs vial). The pitching rates that the on-line calculators give are based on 0.75 million cells per milliliter per degree Plato for ales.
 
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