Sanke Fermenter Conversion

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So I just ran through the 30 plus pages on pressurized fermentation. I'd love to hear what your fermentation schedule is at pressure etc. I'm using my sanke fermenter a lot more as a single vessel fermentation and would like to set this up.
 
lamarguy said:
You can connect the gas line using a 1/4" male flare fitting and 3/8" push-connect tube adapter (1/2" for the newer design). Just unhook and attach the existing MFL connector from your gas line.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry, but I'm pretty ignorant of what all these things mean. Let me try to detail it out and tell me if I go wrong.

So, the push-connect tube adapter is a type of compression fitting or something similar (can this be removed easily?), that would attach to the blow off port, then the male flare fitting would then screw on to that. My gas line from my gas QD would need to be removed and then connected on the MFL.

Does the gas line get directly pushed onto the MFL or is there another piece in between?
 
thesanch said:
ISo, the push-connect tube adapter is a type of compression fitting or something similar (can this be removed easily?), that would attach to the blow off port
Click to expand...

Correct. The push-to-connect fittings are designed to be installed/removed easily.

thesanch said:
My gas line from my gas QD would need to be removed and then connected on the MFL.
Click to expand...

Correct. Just unscrew the female flare adapter from the gas QD and screw it onto the male flare fitting. Be sure to use a nylon washer if you don't already have one.

The connection would look similar to this:

sanke-3.jpg


The little red tab is a lock for the push-to-connect fitting, to prevent accidental release.
 
flananuts said:
I'd love to hear what your fermentation schedule is at pressure etc. I'm using my sanke fermenter a lot more as a single vessel fermentation and would like to set this up.
Click to expand...

No problem...I listed the advantages/disadvantages (including pressure limits) according to the available literature and posted the pressure schedule for the last porter I brewed.

Whatever you do, do NOT do this! :D

To avoid hijacking this thread, feel free to post any questions in the other thread...
 
lamarguy, thanks for the reply and picture. Makes sense now. I was thinking that instead of putting a male flare fitting on the push-to-connect fitting, would it be possible to screw on a keg gas in post?
 
thesanch said:
lamarguy, thanks for the reply and picture. Makes sense now. I was thinking that instead of putting a male flare fitting on the push-to-connect fitting, would it be possible to screw on a keg gas in post?
Click to expand...

Sure, so long as you can obtain a post and match the threads. You'll probably have to rethread the push-to-connect fitting or find an adapter fitting.
 
thesanch said:
I'm thinking of going with this setup, but I'm having some difficulty thinking up a simple way of attaching my gas line to the blow off port to push the beer out when racking. I would really like to keep my gas lines they way they are (ball lock quick disconnects attached on the end).

I have the 2 keg basic kit from kegconnection. They use some sort of worm clamps that prevent them from being loosened.

Any ideas are welcome.
Click to expand...


I see you have flare fittings for the gas QD's- all you need is a male flare fitting w/ a barbed end (about $2-3 at the LHBS), a small nylon flare washer, a length of tubing that fits over the post on Derrin's rig, and a couple small worm-drive hose clamps- 1 for the barb and one for clamping onto the blowoff post. That's what I've used.

A basic hose clamp will hold fine for the transfer- I use 3-5 psi and sometimes run a filter inline. it works great. I'd also recommend getting a hose and beer QD for the racking arm for a totally closed transfer system. I recently came into quite a bit of 1/4" silicone tubing, and don't even use the hose clamps anymore.

Did I mention I LOVE this thing?:mug:
 
fartingdog said:
I see you have flare fittings for the gas QD's- all you need is a male flare fitting w/ a barbed end (about $2-3 at the LHBS), a small nylon flare washer, a length of tubing that fits over the post on Derrin's rig, and a couple small worm-drive hose clamps- 1 for the barb and one for clamping onto the blowoff post. That's what I've used.
Did I mention I LOVE this thing?:mug:
Click to expand...

Mind posting a picture?
 
Has anyone experimented with no-chill brewing on this setup? My two fittings are on the way, and was thinking about doing a no-chill batch to test it out.
 
Although you think of me as a sad and pathetic misogynistic wife beating degenerate from your SWMBO thread, I have to agree with you. I prefer my conical over the keg but it's definitely a cheaper solution and still works well once you get it dialed in.
 
nebben said:
Does anyone here have any experience using one of these with a guinness keg?
Click to expand...

I used mine with my european sanke. it has the threaded inner neck, but was fine. the spear however did no want to come out.

now my question. I'm going to test drive this bad boy (and my new tun!) with a baltic porter tonight. with this nifty contraption came three gaskets, one is obvious. the other two I'm assuming are for the racking cane fitting. beyond that I have no idea about the placement of those two little guys. any help?
 
Just want to say again, excellent product and makes fermenting and racking a 10 gallon batch a breeze. As a suggestion, I would offer in your store a "pressurized racking kit". I pieced one together from the store, but some people out there might not want to DIY. Here's what I did with mine:

Compression fitting to barbed fitting for the CO2 line:
IMG_3169.JPG


Vinyl tubing with simple clamp to stop the flow of beer:
IMG_3171.JPG


It's amazing how fast this actually fills the kegs, much faster than a gravity siphon. Even 2-3psi and it will push the beer remarkably fast. And you get the added benefit of knowing there is no chance of oxidation. Since you're filling the fermenter with CO2, there is no chance of introducing oxygen to your beer.
 
You can also use a beer out disconnect and put the lid on for a more closed system. Just open the release value and put your keg on a scale - zero out your scale and @ 41.25lbs you are full. I have been using a version of this for months and I love it. :)
 
The only thing that's holding me back from going for one of these is the nervousness of cleaning out the inside of the fermenter between brews. Yeah, I know - boil it with some PBW, soak it in Oxy, etc. - but if you get a lot of cold break in there (as I often do in my carboys), then it's still a lengthy and challenging process to get the inside clean enough to pass muster. It'd be awesome to get all of the features of this, included in a corny lid - then just cut the appropriate sized hole in the top of the keg, sort of like this one:

fermtop.jpg
 
ubermick said:
The only thing that's holding me back from going for one of these is the nervousness of cleaning out the inside of the fermenter between brews.
Click to expand...

I built a simple sanke/corny keg cleaning machine that uses a spiral spray nozzle that hooks up to my RIMS heater to heat the cleaning solution. Works great with a March pump! :D
 
lamarguy said:
I built a simple sanke/corny keg cleaning machine that uses a spiral spray nozzle that hooks up to my RIMS heater to heat the cleaning solution. Works great with a March pump! :D
Click to expand...
Well, that's bloody well nice for you!!! ;)
 
lamarguy said:
Ha, just saying... :)

It's nice to be able to clean 10 kegs in a row with no scrubbing. Just set the keg on the stand, turn on the pump, wait 15 minutes, rinse, repeat.
Click to expand...
Haha, no, that sounds good.

Funny though, I've searched the site for your BUILD THREAD WITH INSTRUCTIONS, and can't seem to find it... (hint hint!)
 
lamarguy said:
I built a simple sanke/corny keg cleaning machine that uses a spiral spray nozzle that hooks up to my RIMS heater to heat the cleaning solution. Works great with a March pump! :D
Click to expand...

mind showing that contraption to me? That sounds like something I would be interested in and have the rims heater and pump already :)
 
humann_brewing said:
mind showing that contraption to me? That sounds like something I would be interested in and have the rims heater and pump already :)
Click to expand...

I'll try to remember to snap a photo of it this evening. I'm hosting for family this weekend. :drunk:

It's pretty simple and satisfies my requirements:

  1. Support sanke (1/6 - 1/2 barrel) and corny kegs (2.5 - 10 gallon).
  2. Integrate into my existing brew rig (pump and RIMS heater).
  3. Auto-heat the cleaning solution (PBW) to 140F.
  4. Cover the entire interior surface of the keg (120° clog resistant nozzle).
  5. For sanke kegs, clean the spear.
  6. For corny kegs, clean the dip tube, gas tube, and poppets.
  7. Do it in 15 minutes per keg.
 
ubermick said:
Just spotted this that seems to satisfy all the criteria - a heated keg and carboy cleaner, over on Wort-o-Matic
Click to expand...

Ya, I've seen that design before. It should work for most people, I just decided to go a different route since it doesn't meet several of my requirements.

Things it didn't meet are (1) isn't keg height adjustable (2) lacks an automatic heating control loop, (3) uses a less-than-stellar spray nozzle, and (4) requires a dedicated pump and heatstick. Not saying it's a bad design, just didn't meet my requirements.
 
My cleaning solution is pretty simple.

1. Fill bucket with hot water and PBW
2. Put pond pump/spray nozzle assembly in bucket
3. Put lid on (has opening for nozzle)
4. Plug in
5. Come back 1/2 hour later and rinse with hot water

Clean as a whistle, and cost about $40.
http://picasaweb.google.com/benuntu/KegWasher#
IMG_2713.JPG


Works great for cornies too!
IMG_2727.JPG


And carboys:
IMG_2738.JPG
 
could someone use this to actually use a keg as a sanke? I have two 1/6 barrel sankes i either need to sell or use.
 
I just picked up a few kegs including 2-1/6 barrel sankes yesterday. I know people use 1/2 barrels for there beer. It takes a little more to clean but I like the option of having a sanke tap in the keezer. It will allow me to have the option to put a full sanke for a house beer or a 1/6 barrel in there.
 
TwoHeadsBrewing said:
My cleaning solution is pretty simple.

1. Fill bucket with hot water and PBW
2. Put pond pump/spray nozzle assembly in bucket
3. Put lid on (has opening for nozzle)
4. Plug in
5. Come back 1/2 hour later and rinse with hot water

Clean as a whistle, and cost about $40.
http://picasaweb.google.com/benuntu/KegWasher#
IMG_2713.JPG


Works great for cornies too!
IMG_2727.JPG


And carboys:
IMG_2738.JPG
Click to expand...
wow, this is awesome! nice idea
 
My soon to be method of keg cleaning, once I complete it, is to put boiling water (with PWB, SS) in a corny keg and then from there, attach a gutter cleaner wand (just makes a 65 degree bend to the straight wand) to the liquid out and spray all corners with the kegs right side up.

Just have to find the right wand - that will work well at 20 PSI, or whatever I charge the keg with. Most of the sprayers are '3000PSI!!' or so but some say 'hi/low pressure'. Will have to figure that one out.

What do you think.
 
This looks like it could be a nice tool for folks who use a standard sanke for fermenting...


(Feel free to poke fun at cheesy "host" hahah)
 
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