keezer collar height

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balto charlie

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Hey folks: I am finally building the collar for my keezer. I was going to use 1X4s or 2X4s. I didn't want a difficult lift for the kegs. I took off the rear hinges , measured them and realized that I will not be able to refasten to the keezer. I will be able to screw into the wood w/ the top screws but the lower screws are too low for the wood and too high for the original holes. I could use 6" or 8" collar but prefer to keep it low. I know it will be hard to clean and pick up stuff from the bottom when a collar gets too tall. How do you extend the hinges to fit a 4" collar??? Would 2X2's work or are they too narrow for the shanks.
Thanks, Charlie
 
If you don't see yourself putting the lid back into the original place on the freezer, you could always use liquid nails to adhere the hinges to the 2x4. Or just drill another hole in the hinge so it attaches to the wood.
 
I don't want to use glue. I guess I can always attach to the lid, leave hinge attached to the back and attach to the wood. Does this make sense?
 
use plain old silicone caulk.
It'll peel right off of the plastic in the freezer if the time ever comes.

I would speak in opposition to the 2x8 collar. It ends up so high that you have a hard time getting kegs in without bashing anything.
 
A lot of people here tend to attach the collar to the lid claiming that it can support the extra weight of the wood. That way you don't have to worry about lifting anything over an 8" addition. Also, you can leave the hinges in the predrilled holes and just drill new holes for the other spots in the wood.
 
I'll use caulk for sure. I guess i'll attach to the lid and use the same holes. I also guess people attached 1x6 or 1x8s to the base and not 1x4s. This way you can attach the entire hinge to the wood. Thanks folks, Charlie
 
I found some non-nominal cedar at Lowes. That is, instead of it curing to the half inch nominal dimensions it was actually at th full inch. I forgoit what the actual dimensions were. I want to say 3 Inches.

Maybe I just got lucky but, it just so happened that the bottom slots of the hinge lined up p[erfectly with the top row of original holes in the freezer.

It would make for some pretty thin covereage at the shanks but, you could also look at "trailer studs". IIRC, the nominal dimension are 2x3 and actual are 1-1/2 x 2-1/2
 
I used a 2x4 collar and had the same problem. The bottom screw holes of the hinge were abot 1" higher than the top threaded holes on the frezzer unit. I used 16 ga sheet metal and tek screws to attach to hinge. Then screwed in original cap screws thru the sheet metal into original top hole.

A good moment connection with no damage to the freezer.
 
I found some non-nominal cedar at Lowes. That is, instead of it curing to the half inch nominal dimensions it was actually at th full inch. I forgoit what the actual dimensions were. I want to say 3 Inches.

Maybe I just got lucky but, it just so happened that the bottom slots of the hinge lined up p[erfectly with the top row of original holes in the freezer.

It would make for some pretty thin covereage at the shanks but, you could also look at "trailer studs". IIRC, the nominal dimension are 2x3 and actual are 1-1/2 x 2-1/2

Some 3xs would work. thanks, I'll look for some
 
I used a 2x4 collar and had the same problem. The bottom screw holes of the hinge were abot 1" higher than the top threaded holes on the frezzer unit. I used 16 ga sheet metal and tek screws to attach to hinge. Then screwed in original cap screws thru the sheet metal into original top hole.

A good moment connection with no damage to the freezer.

I thought about extending the brackets. Seemed like attaching to the lid would be easier. I'll think about it and check 16 ga SM. Thanks
 
i used 2 x 8 and i can still reach the bottom of my fridge albeit its a bit harder. Deffinitly worth the extra clearance because i can add 2 more corneys on the "hump" of the freezer. Also why cant you just unscrew the hinges and remount on your collar?
 
i used 2 x 8 and i can still reach the bottom of my fridge albeit its a bit harder. Deffinitly worth the extra clearance because i can add 2 more corneys on the "hump" of the freezer. Also why cant you just unscrew the hinges and remount on your collar?

With 2x8s you can screw the entire hinge to the wood but using 2x4 puts the lower screw holes aligned to another part of the freezer(not the holes). The top screws will screw into the 2x4 and the lower have nothing. I don't want to drill my freezer..
I ended up using 1x3s(thanks GilaM). I found a really nice piece of red oak. In fact I just finished sanding and poly urethaning it(first coat). I still have to drill for the Perlicks.
 
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