GE 7 CF (FCM7SUWW) keezer conversion

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Both HD and Walmart have 7.0 cu ft GE freezers for $159. HD includes free shipping (haven't checked Walmart.com).

Great thread, getting wonderful ideas on how to do my build.

A question for someone who has done their builds. I am considering using "white wood" from HD for the collar. If I do this, the max width is 1x8 which is 3/4"x7 1/4" actual. From reading earlier posts, this might be extremely tight if I wanted to put a corny on the hump. Would it be possible for someone to do an actual measurement? I have mostly ball-lock but I could use a pin-lock on the collar (as they aren't as tall)? I am only considering this route to minimize project time, eliminate any change that could mess up the warranty. I am planning on putting this in my kitchen so I can avoid that long walk to the basement where my old ugly converted refrigerator sits.

Thanks to all for some awesome looking builds in this thread.

Oh, one other thing. On the subject of fitting a half-barrel, there is a plan B. When I had my first batch of home-brew ready in the keg, I already had a half empty 1/4 barrel (pony style) in my converted fridge with no room for the keg. So, I simply did a keg-to-keg transfer from the pony keg to an empty corny. (No air exposure.) You simply rig up from your bev out on the sanke keg a line which goes to a qd which is connected to the bev line of the target empty corny. Then apply co2 to the sanke and when it's pressure is higher than the target corny, the beer will start to transfer. Then vent the pressure on the target once in a while and you can do the transfer. So, while not perfect, you can use this method to transfer a 1/2 barrel to 3 5-gallon corny kegs. The extra 1/2 gallon you just drink while you are doing the transfer :)

I used a 2x8 for my collar and I can say that fitting the 5th keg on the hump is possible BUT it is a very tight fit. I want to say that when I tried this it was about an 1/8th of an inch too tall so that the lid would not close entirely. A simple way to get around this if you know about it before building your keezer is to either make a bigger collar or get thicker rubber for your weatherstripping.

I plan to get around this by sanding off some of the rubber from one of my kegs bottoms to get it to fit or by getting a low profile ball lock keg or getting a converted pin lock.

The 5# regulator fits with no problem on the hump but I like to let my other kegs hold it up since there is a lot of empty areas between the kegs due to having them staggered. I am using the space above the hump for the basket that comes with the freezer for bottles and below that I keep my washed yeast on the actual hump.

I am hoping I can keep my setup as it is with 4 kegs on the floor but I can see that changing as I get more into AG. Here is a link to mine so you can see what I mean... https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/show-us-your-kegerator-29053/index310.html#post3418986
 
I used a 2x8 for my collar and I can say that fitting the 5th keg on the hump is possible BUT it is a very tight fit. I want to say that when I tried this it was about an 1/8th of an inch too tall so that the lid would not close entirely. A simple way to get around this if you know about it before building your keezer is to either make a bigger collar or get thicker rubber for your weatherstripping.

I plan to get around this by sanding off some of the rubber from one of my kegs bottoms to get it to fit or by getting a low profile ball lock keg or getting a converted pin lock.

The 5# regulator fits with no problem on the hump but I like to let my other kegs hold it up since there is a lot of empty areas between the kegs due to having them staggered. I am using the space above the hump for the basket that comes with the freezer for bottles and below that I keep my washed yeast on the actual hump.

I am hoping I can keep my setup as it is with 4 kegs on the floor but I can see that changing as I get more into AG. Here is a link to mine so you can see what I mean... https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/show-us-your-kegerator-29053/index310.html#post3418986

Thanks, looks very nice. I think I will give up on the 1x8 "white wood" idea and just use 1x10 that I either stain or paint. It's going in the kitchen but I have wood floors (and lots of stained wood in the house in general). Do you have a write-up on the details of your build?
 
Thanks, looks very nice. I think I will give up on the 1x8 "white wood" idea and just use 1x10 that I either stain or paint. It's going in the kitchen but I have wood floors (and lots of stained wood in the house in general). Do you have a write-up on the details of your build?

I don't have a write up of the build but I did follow this build almost step by step, the only thing different I did was the 2x8. By using the thicker wood, I didn't have to shim out anything and I got some better insulation qualities due to it being a little thicker. I am pretty sure HD sells 2x10's that you could use and have no issues with getting the 5th on the hump.

Let us know how it works out or if you have more questions.
 
Sweet, mine was just delivered. They carried it up stairs to my office and everything. Giving it a 48 hour burn in now.

Is there a way to run a temperature probe without modifying the freezer?

:confused:
 
Sweet, mine was just delivered. They carried it up stairs to my office and everything. Giving it a 48 hour burn in now.

Is there a way to run a temperature probe without modifying the freezer?

:confused:

run it in and let the lid close on it, you wont lose much if any coldness by doing so.
 
While not as good of deal as the first one I bought for $20, I think I will grab one for a fermentation chamber.

ForumRunner_20111202_121156.jpg
 
My CHI temp controller is due in today, so I will give that a try.

Maybe add a bit of foam tape either side of probe wire.

I wouldn't do that, it will only make the gap bigger. The seal on this freezer is pretty forgiving and thick so a small wire will not do much to the seal.
 
My CHI temp controller is due in today, so I will give that a try.

Maybe add a bit of foam tape either side of probe wire.

The Chi Co. temp contoller temp probe is like a 16 gauge wire. Just closed the lid on it and you should be all good
 
The Chi Co. temp contoller temp probe is like a 16 gauge wire. Just closed the lid on it and you should be all good

I'm using my Johnson controller from my ferm chamber, and the freezer/keezer is holding a steady 38*F now.
 
I got this freezer from HD online for cyber Monday. $159 with free shipping. I'm pretty much going to follow this build as well. I haven't truly decided whether I'm going collar to lid or collar to base. I know the pros/cons for both. Will decide once I receive the freezer. Super excited. Thanks for the write up and information!
 
For anyone who has completed this project, what kind of caulk/glue did you use to attach the wooden collar to the freezer lid? Do you have a link to the exact product? How is it holding up over time? Thanks for the input.

BK
 
Just regular clear silicon caulk like you would use in the bathroom/kitchen. It is plenty as long as you don't lift the collar by grabbing the lid... one of the reasons I have the towel rack/handle on the front. :)

The other upside is I could convert this back into a stock freezer in like ten minutes. Not that I ever plan to but the option is nice.
 
That's a great tutorial!!! ..I learned a lot of stuff I didn't even think about ...I'm converting an upright (freezer on top) model...it's also new and I've started tinkering around without turning it on yet ...I'll post as soon as I start the mods ..waiting for the faucets ..etc ..etc
Your's looks GREAT
 
Still working on my keezer and wanted to pass on piece of advice to future builders. Be careful when you go to purchase parts unless you know exactly what you want and are ready to install them when they come in. Also, check the return policy and don't wait too long. Lesson learned!
 
Thanks for the heads up. Good to know who will work with you after the order has been made (once they have your money).

Scott
 
I have 2 of these now. One is a 4 tap keezer (5# CO2/2 regs on the hump), and the other is a ferment chamber. The keezer runs a couple times a day for a couple minutes with an analog Johnson controller set at 38F. The ferment chamber runs even less with a digital controller set to 60F. Both freezers were sale units from HD and bargains. Not a minute of trouble. I used 1x4 white oak stock for the keezer collar (mounted to the lid, which I recommend), mitered and stained. It looks great with 4 perlicks!
 
For anyone who has completed this project, what kind of caulk/glue did you use to attach the wooden collar to the freezer lid? Do you have a link to the exact product? How is it holding up over time? Thanks for the input.

BK

I ended up hinging both the lid and collar. I used cabinet hinges and the existing holes in the lid, I did have to drill out the hinges a bit so the holes would line up.

P1000237.jpg

P1000236.jpg

P1000240.jpg

P1000248.jpg
 
Can anyone shed some light on to whether this will hold 4 ball lock or 4 pin lock kegs on the bottom?
 
Ok, so I currently have 2 pin locks and 1 ball lock. Think I could fit 2 of each on the bottom, or even my 3 current?
 
The three should be easy enough but there is no way you'll get four on the floor in that configuration. Four ball locks require some pretty heavy handed convincing to fit and pin locks are wider/fatter.
 
jgoette said:
Can anyone shed some light on to whether this will hold 4 ball lock or 4 pin lock kegs on the bottom?

I'm not sure but the dimensions may have changed in this freezer. I could not get 4 ball locks on the floor. It looks like it's about an inch too narrow. It's not even close enough to even jam them in there, which others have done in the past with this freezer.
 
I'm not sure but the dimensions may have changed in this freezer. I could not get 4 ball locks on the floor. It looks like it's about an inch too narrow. It's not even close enough to even jam them in there, which others have done in the past with this freezer.

I thought the same thing when I measured but 4 fit because you can stack them in staggered. I have 4 on the floor and could add a 5th on the hump if I really wanted to but I am using that area for bottles and washed yeast.
 
I thought the same thing when I measured but 4 fit because you can stack them in staggered. I have 4 on the floor and could add a 5th on the hump if I really wanted to but I am using that area for bottles and washed yeast.

Agreed! I can fit 4 on the floor but it is a tight squeeze. After squeezing kegs in and out for 2+ years though it has loosened up a bit
 
That hump is just thin metal filled with insulation and the way they fill it it bulges out blocking the kegs from going in. Initially I beat the crap out of it with a mallet to get them to fit. After all this time they go in much easier but it is still a tight fit.
 
I have a general question regarding co2 lines..... Why do you need seperate gauges for each corny? To read the psi in each individual corny? Can't you just split the line?
 
Yes you can get a manifold or simple splitters. I did a secondary regulator though so I could control the PSI to individual kegs. It is more expensive up front but well worth it I think.
 
TomSD said:
Yes you can get a manifold or simple splitters. I did a secondary regulator though so I could control the PSI to individual kegs. It is more expensive up front but well worth it I think.

So do you think for now if I had four cornys on one co2 tank and just split the line it would work?
 
Yeah as long as all of your kegs stayed at the same PSI. I keep two kegs of water carbing at 30 at all times (one serving and one carbing up) though so it isn't an option for me. That and I like to tweak/see my settings on each keg.
 
barhoc11 said:
I thought the same thing when I measured but 4 fit because you can stack them in staggered. I have 4 on the floor and could add a 5th on the hump if I really wanted to but I am using that area for bottles and washed yeast.

I tried with actual kegs and they would not fit. The hump would need a good bit of persuasion to get them in. Then once in they would be a PITA to get out.

Doesn't matter much for me since I have the fourth keg on the hump with a 20# CO2 on the floor.
 
I tried with actual kegs and they would not fit. The hump would need a good bit of persuasion to get them in. Then once in they would be a PITA to get out.

Doesn't matter much for me since I have the fourth keg on the hump with a 20# CO2 on the floor.

Did you try to rotate the kegs to get the best possible fit? It is a tight fit but its not the worst thing when you try to get one in/out. If you do one on the hump, make sure your collar is tall enough.
 
Has anyone used the STC-1000 temp controller with this particular GE chest freezer (FCM7SUWW)? Looks like this freezer requires a 15 amp rating while the STC-1000 is only rated to 10 amps.
 
Has anyone used the STC-1000 temp controller with this particular GE chest freezer (FCM7SUWW)? Looks like this freezer requires a 15 amp rating while the STC-1000 is only rated to 10 amps.

I just switched over to the STC-1000 after selling my Johnson Controls single stage unit. My STC-1000 is working fine, all it does is turn the freezer on and off at the proper temp.
 
Has anyone used the STC-1000 temp controller with this particular GE chest freezer (FCM7SUWW)? Looks like this freezer requires a 15 amp rating while the STC-1000 is only rated to 10 amps.

Yes, I use that controller. I don't think the freezer draws 15A or even half of that. I think someone took some current readings on it at one time or another. I can look on the nameplate to see what it says.

GE does however recommend a 15A extension cord if you use one.

P1000244.jpg
 
Back
Top