Water Chemistry - Is it REALLY this easy??

So I got my water report back from Ward Labs...

Na - 11
Ca - 22
Mg - 4
SO4 - 27
Cl - 15
HCO3 - 44
pH - 9.2

So if I want to make my water like Burton-on-Trent... can I just add 3 grams/gallon of Gypsum and call it good?

I mean, it won't be perfect, but it'll be a start... right?

Burton-on-Trent:
Na - 25
Ca - 275
Mg - 40
SO4 - 450
Cl - 35
HCO3 - 260

Yep, it's that easy

The easy answer is yes, it's that easy to replicate a target profile.

The hard part is realizing even those brewing often modified their water and didn't use it as-is. What did they do exactly? There's not a lot of consensus on that.

Did they soften their water? Reduce the alkalinity? Do you even like the harsh bitterness from that ungodly amount of sulfate?

Just keep an open mind about it. Brewers made the best beer they could that was suited for their water, but often you can do better. We are not limited, RO water and salts are easily accessible. Don't shoot yourself in the foot by doing something that those brewers historically were working *around*.

I've recently gotten been big on water chemistry after a stout was too malty and my ipa's werent hoppy and crisp. Such a little adjustment makes a HUGE difference.

I just started using RO water and treating with minerals plus saurmalz when needed my last batch (a Belgian Blonde). Mainly I did it for cost savings since my tap water is no good for brewing. My gravity samples so far taste great and it was far easier than I first thought it would be.

AmandaK said:

So I got my water report back from Ward Labs...

Na - 11
Ca - 22
Mg - 4
SO4 - 27
Cl - 15
HCO3 - 44
pH - 9.2

So if I want to make my water like Burton-on-Trent... can I just add 3 grams/gallon of Gypsum and call it good?

I mean, it won't be perfect, but it'll be a start... right?

Burton-on-Trent:
Na - 25
Ca - 275
Mg - 40
SO4 - 450
Cl - 35
HCO3 - 260

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Don't worry about perfect, you can't and frankly you don't have to match a particular brewing water style exactly. It's fine and it is fairly easy especially with base water that has very low ion values to begin with. Some folks over-think it and some have difficult water to begin with but if your water isn't too crazy and you just look at the numbers combined with basic math skills your beer will be fine.

Whoa! 9.2 pH! Thats nuts!

jfrank85 said:

Whoa! 9.2 pH! Thats nuts!

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I was just thinking that...

I would pm ajdelange with your water profile. The pH seems way out of whack considering what's actually in it. I would think your pH should be *lower* than most.

jfrank85 said:

Whoa! 9.2 pH! Thats nuts!

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The pH of the water is not important. Mash pH is what you need to be concerned about.

BigEd said:

The pH of the water is not important. Mash pH is what you need to be concerned about.

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Well yeah but with a low carbonate hardness wont the pH swing wildly from lack of buffer? Sorry, my 15+ years of aquarium keeping tends to come out now and again .

I'd say no, it's not that easy. Sure you can add minerals to achieve a profile, but that doesn't begin to address your mash pH. Which is just as important as your profile.

Chances are with your moderately low bicarbonate, you could be ok. Check out ez water or brun water to make relatively sure.
I have to add some acidulated malt to everything to get in range.

Also read the water chemistry primer. Good luck!

ETA : to hit that profile, you'd have to add a Bunch of bicarbonate, which is usually discouraged.

jfrank85 said:

Whoa! 9.2 pH! Thats nuts!

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I also called the Water Dept on that one... they say they like to keep it at a pH of around 9 to "help the pipes".

At any rate, I've always adjusted my water down with lactic acid to counteract that.

Thanks guys for the help guys!

jfrank85 said:

Well yeah but with a low carbonate hardness wont the pH swing wildly from lack of buffer? Sorry, my 15+ years of aquarium keeping tends to come out now and again .

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In short, the enzyme activity in the mash aided by the proper amount of Ca+ ions creates a slightly acidic environment. While that starting water has a pH of 9.2 there is very little residual alkalinity keeping it there. Once the mash activity begins the pH will almost certainly drop into the desired range and stabilize.

BigEd said:

In short, the enzyme activity in the mash aided by the proper amount of Ca+ ions creates a slightly acidic environment. While that starting water has a pH of 9.2 there is very little residual alkalinity keeping it there. Once the mash activity begins the pH will almost certainly drop into the desired range and stabilize.

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Makes sense .

Why not add some sodium chloride as well if you are trying to emulate burton on trent water.

BOBTHEukBREWER said:

Why not add some sodium chloride as well if you are trying to emulate burton on trent water.

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There's not much reason to ever add Sodium to brewing water. Sodium serves no purpose in the mash and too much can create problems for both the yeast and the flavor of the beer. Since the amounts of both Na+ and Cl- in both Burton and the brewer's starting water are small and very similar it just isn't anything with which to be concerned.

25 sodium may taste a little salty as is. I would avoid adding more sodium.

And won't 40 magnesium give you the runs?

bobbrews said:

And won't 40 magnesium give you the runs?

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No. You would need to be at 125ppm and above to begin worrying about that. Only trace amounts of Magnesium are required and in most cases there is enough in the malt itself. Burton water does have a lot at 40ppm but not enough to cause problems.