getting a beer to finish dryer

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OHIOSTEVE

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I have a beer that I brew that I really like but would like to get it dryer and am clueless as to how to do that. The grain bill is
9 lbs Pilsner
2 lbs vienna
mashed at 148 degrees for 60 minutes

it is coming out around 1.012-1.010 but still has a sweetish taste to it.

using all fuggle hops
.5 oz @60
.25 oz @ 15
.5 oz @ flameout
I am thinking maybe the issue may be a lack of bittering more than not dry enough...any suggestions?
 
Use a high attenuation yeast, mash at lower temps (148 is good), and pitch a starter.

Use more hops early in the boil to increase bittering.
 
Another vote for more hopping. 1.010 is pretty low for 11 pounds of grain. You could reduce that a bit maybe, especially if you replaced some of the malt with sugar or something, but I think adding flavor to balance would be a much better option than taking it away.
 
s-05 yeast and a starter already. I think you guys are correct a little more bittering should do it.
 
your grain bill is 11lbs
What is the volume of beer your shooting for after the boil?
If it's 5gal then your grain bill is to high for a drier beer cut it back to
around to 9lbs
8lbs pils
1lb Vienna
Then adjust your hops to achieve the desired bitterness.

tim
 
IMO you have 2 options...either add a higher alpha bittering hop at the beginning of the boil or add corn sugar (up to 10%). With your recipe, I'd start with adjusting your bittering hop addition first.

Sent from my iPhone using HB Talk
 
IMO you have 2 options...either add a higher alpha bittering hop at the beginning of the boil or add corn sugar (up to 10%). With your recipe, I'd start with adjusting your bittering hop addition first.

Sent from my iPhone using HB Talk
 
Lower your temp to 145 and extend your time to 2 hours. I did a German Pils at 140 for something like 10 hours and ruined it. It was like drinking flour water.
 
Some people in this thread are confusing bitterness with dryness.

You can increase bitterness by adding more bittering hops early in the boil. You can increase dryness (as in lower FG) by using a higher attenuating yeast and higher pitching rate (make a starter w/ liquid yeast or double pitch packets of dry yeast) and mashing low. Another thing that can increase FG is using a lot of specialty grains but your recipe isn't doing this.

If your thermometer is accurate and you're mashing at 148 then you're already mashing low enough for a dry beer and pitching a higher yeast count or switching strains is likely your solution.
 
I have had the opposite problem. I had a few beers finish like 1.006. I was mashing accidentally at like 146. The one had a pound of sugar added too. It was Belgian style so it worked out. I also add these nutrients. Everything seems to finish very dry for me. Working on trying to get body now.
 
I have a beer that I like to make that I always used a base of plain 2-row for and then one time I used pilsen malt as the base and it came out too sweet to me even with a low FG. I attributed it the malt and have gone back to 2-row and have my nice dry beer back even though the FG was within a point.

Yeast is also a question as I have played with different yeast in the recipe above and found that it makes a big difference in perceived dryness even though the FG was 0.1 degree plato different. For my last trial it was Wyeast 1968 vs 1056 and the 1056 seemed way drier even though they were basically the same FG.

Good luck...
 
I made this with 2 row and switched it to pilsen malt thinking I would get a cleaner profile. I have used notty and s-05 and prefer the s-05. This last batch I used washed yeast and made a starter, decanted and pitched.I think I may drop the grain bill as was suggested, maybe even lower than suggested and up the bittering just a touch. And make a bigger starter. I want the taste close but dryer. I hope I don't end up with a completely different beer...unless it is better beer lol.
 
Not sure I get the logic behind dropping the grain bill. You could do this but it's also going to lower your original gravity and alcohol content with minor affect to the final gravity.
 
Some people in this thread are confusing bitterness with dryness.

I'm not confusing the two. It just seems to me the main problem here is that that beer is out of balance (at least I imagine it would be for my tastes), not that it isn't dry enough. Not enough bitterness can make even a reasonable amount of sweetness seem cloying. If it really is a dryness issue, then I agree that switching strains and/or upping pitch rate would probably be the first thing to try.
 
I agree. If you have an overly sweet beer, a way to balance it out is to add more bitterness. By the same token, if you have an overly dry beer, you can balance it out by decreasing your bittering hop addition. Bitterness gives the perception of dryness on the palette & it can mask the malt flavor.

For example, Jamil always talks about using higher hopping rates/IBUs in imperial beers to balance the cloying sweetness you can get from the malt/alcohol.

Sent from my iPhone using HB Talk
 
The other factor you might want to consider is carbonation. If your beer isn't fully carbed yet, it'll probably taste sweeter than it should. On the other hand, high carbonation levels (2.8+ vols) can make a beer taste much drier than it actually is.
 
Not sure I get the logic behind dropping the grain bill. You could do this but it's also going to lower your original gravity and alcohol content with minor affect to the final gravity.


The idea of cutting back on the malt is to trim down the malty sweetness
of the beer and make the beer not as heavy more drier and waterery in flavor.

In a lighter beer such as this adding more hops
is not the way to go cause all your going to do is add more bitterness and end up giving the beer an unpleasant hoppy after taste.

If your concerned abought alcohol percentage
you can adjust that by adding
some rice syrup solids during the boil.
The rice solids will only add alcohol
and not effect the body of the beer at all.

tim
 
If you like it as is, and don't want to change the recipe you can add amalaze enzyme and watch it. when the fg lowers to your liking, crash cool and keg it. Also co2 volumes play a large role. I have a light cream ale that taste sweet at 2-2.5 vol of co2 , but crank it up to 3 volumes and it taste much drier and less sweet.
 
I'm not confusing the two. It just seems to me the main problem here is that that beer is out of balance (at least I imagine it would be for my tastes), not that it isn't dry enough. Not enough bitterness can make even a reasonable amount of sweetness seem cloying. If it really is a dryness issue, then I agree that switching strains and/or upping pitch rate would probably be the first thing to try.

Fair enough. Creating a balanced recipe can be trickier than it seems sometimes. I was just trying to address the issue posed by the OP.

You can have a beer very high in IBU that has a very low FG which leaves you with both a dry and bitter beer. You could also have a very high IBU beer with a high FG which gives you sweeter malt flavor but incorporates a high bitterness from hops flavor to balance that.

My point was only that the two variables (dryness and bitterness) are completely independent and utilize different factors (mash temp/yeast vs. amount of bittering hops) to modify each one.
 
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