Electric Kettle Vs. Turkey Fryer

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D-AB

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I'm currently doing 2 gal AG batched on the stove. I have a 5 gal mash tun made from a Coleman stand up water cooler but need something for the boil. I have looked into both turkey fryers and spending the little bit of extra money and getting an electric kettles. I have ideas of why each one would be better or worse then the other. But what are your thoughts and opinions, I need some help deciding and any tips, advice or experience! Thanks everyone! Happy Holiday Brewing!

Cheers,
D-AB
 
To be more specific the kettle I am looking at is the Still Spirits 500 Turbo Boiler! Thanks again!
 
If you're doing AG, it seems like using electric is more useful for an HLT, just to dial in your mash temps easily and precisely?
When I switched from gas to electric, I loved it. Just my 2 cents.
 
I think that Still Spirits 500 Turbo Boiler is a better still then a boil pot. An electric boil pot needs control over the power or you will get boil overs and you'd save a lot of money building it yourself, a turkey fryer is easier to control but you have to deal with propane.
 
Look in to some of the eBIAB threads, for the price of the boiler you are looking at you can probably build a 5 gallon one pid electric BIAB system that can run on a 20A 120VAC outlet. I just picked up a 62qt Stainless pot with basket for 135 shipped. I think the 44Qt version is 109 with free shipping, and I think you get 10% off your first purchase too.

There are quite a few really good instructional threads right now in the electric brewing group about building these systems. I have a full electric 10 gallon system and I am much happier with it than with my propane system.
 
Using the HLT and MLT from my Propane setup, I have found the electric turkey fryer to be a viable way of brewing, but they need a little help if you are going AG. With the pot reasonably full, I have a problem getting it to maintain a boil. I got around this by insulating the cavity between the tub and the outer housing with Fiberglass insulation, then wrapped the outside with a metallized foam insulation. I also use hot water from the faucet, which comes out at about 135 degrees.

I will heat my Sparge water first usually up to about 195-200 degrees and pump it into insulated cooler #1, my HLT. I will then heat the Strike water (again preheated to 135 degrees) and it will get to Strike temp in about a half hour. I then mash as usual in cooler #2. Biggest pain is getting the wort to boil, you have to keep the lid closed, but it will boil over at hot break, so I keep a close eye on the thermometer as hot break approaches. The foam that forms from 195 to boiling helps insulate the wort as it heats, but keep an eye on it. Once the initial foam dissipates, you will have to find a way of keeping the lid open a crack to keep enough heat in to keep it at a rolling boil.
 
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