Blonde Ale Miller Lite (Really Triple Hopped)

Maybe, skip the ae in this one. Look and see what your final gravity is now. If its close to zero just keg and forget the ae for now.

I skipped AE on my third batch and it was too sweet for the style. I think it stopped at 1.07. I wanted to see what it would be like without AE. That was a mistake. On this batch I just pitched the AE at 7 days and will let it sit for two more weeks before kegging.

I would have to agree. Skipping the AE is a not a good idea.

Having a dry beer is key. This style is low in mouth feel and any form of malt taste. Having the AE do its thing helps make this beer free from defect. I think the flavor of this beer is virtually all aroma. Its all from the relatively small amount hops.

When you have a light beer any flaw is noticeable, it has nowhere to hide. I think the AE does a great job of cleaning up this beer. That said a few weeks chilled w/ CO2 is needed to really be ready to drink. (At maximum enjoyment.)

Kegged it yesterday after 7 days in primary and 14 days with AE. AE did the trick...the FG was around 1.001!! It's an all sorachi batch, dry hopped with sorachi as well. Tasted light, crisp and a little lemon-y uncarbed. Delicious.

Going to give 2 weeks on CO2 to get rid of the dry / parched flavor. Excited for this one!

FWIW - I like to serve this at 42-44F with 12psi. Love the lacing on the empty glass.

About to embark on the 5th brewing of this, again going back to Mt Hoods for my hops (Home Grown).

My question is water. I normally use my tap water via drinking water hose measured the night before with campden tablets added. This time I was thinking I'd use 10 Gal of RO water and the rest coming from my tap water so I have some minerals.

Will ~2/3 RO water work any suggestions?

Brewing tomorrow at lunch with a long mash and finishing after work.

How did your mash go? Sorry I didnt see this earlier. The thing I would have raised was the water and mash pH. In this situation you would need to check the pH and then make adjustments with gypsum or calcium carbonate. Possibly use a buffer.

Needless to say, how did the mash go? What efficiency did you get?

tlsaudio said:

I wanted to use up my extra ingrediants from my last batch so I fiddled around with the numbers in PROmash and this is what I've got.
1lb Pale malt 2-row
.5lb Pale malt 6-row
.5lb Flaked corn
1lb Muntons Light DME
This still got me around 1.030 OG
Hops
.2oz Hallertau 3.9% @60 mins
.5oz Vanguard 4.4%@60 mins
.2oz Challenger 7% @10 mins
1oz Cascade (Dry hop secondary)
Total IBU 17
Yeast S-04

Like I said I'm new to this so would this taste like crap?

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I didnt get any conversion from my grains in the partial mash so my OG was only 1.020 (From the DME) FG was 1.000 thanks to the AE. Still this was a very nice brew, lots of hop flavor, crisp and light. We kicked the entire 5 gallons in one night thanks to beer pong and the casual BMC drinkers. I found myself pouring a couple pints just to sip in between games! I'll be making this again soon.
Thanks for the recipe,
Terry

tlsaudio said:

I didnt get any conversion from my grains in the partial mash so my OG was only 1.020 (From the DME) FG was 1.000 thanks to the AE. Still this was a very nice brew, lots of hop flavor, crisp and light. We kicked the entire 5 gallons in one night thanks to beer pong and the casual BMC drinkers. I found myself pouring a couple pints just to sip in between games! I'll be making this again soon.
Thanks for the recipe,
Terry

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Not to mention this is a cheap beer to make!!!

Three weeks after adding AE in the primary it only dropped to 1.004 at 65 degs. Odd. I kegged it anyway as I need to take it to the homebrew club meeting. We shall see how it tastes. The color is perfect.

Good Luck!

If its anything like what I made people will swear its like a lager.

Hey all,

Little confused on the fermentation process here.

The Safale US-05 is an ale yeast, but the sub Wyeast 2007 is a lager yeast. I don't think either of the HBS carry the Safale US-05 here...so what to do!?!

Valis said:

Hey all,

Little confused on the fermentation process here.

The Safale US-05 is an ale yeast, but the sub Wyeast 2007 is a lager yeast. I don't think either of the HBS carry the Safale US-05 here...so what to do!?!

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S-05 is very common yeast for clean crisp ales. Yes miller lite is a lager, but most of us can't lager year round. S-05 is a good choice for a lite ale. You can get similar results.

Try getting S-05 from somewhere else. Its one of the most common ale yeasts Maybe try Nottingham Ale Yeast if you can't get your hands on S-05.

hmmm i think this may be my next beer... i have been getting tired of all the normal ales i have been making for the last couple of years... i think making some lighter sunmmer drinking beers will do the trick...also it seems that a lighter beer is harder to make well with less malt and hops to hide flaws

mwhc22 said:

hmmm i think this may be my next beer... i have been getting tired of all the normal ales i have been making for the last couple of years... i think making some lighter sunmmer drinking beers will do the trick...also it seems that a lighter beer is harder to make well with less malt and hops to hide flaws

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If you have good sound technique and fresh ingredients its not too hard. The AE addition in the secondary, do a good bit to clean this beer up. You will be drinking this within a few weeks to a month after you rack it to the secondary. You can't say that with most lagers.

This was my second all grain brew.

2.5 kg Marris Otter Pale Malt
1.0 kg Flaked Maize
30g Saaz 4.1aa 60min
20 litres
One hop addition only.

OG 1.039
I used Saaz hops instead of Cacasde.

Added Enzymes at 8 days gravity at 1.006
Finished at 1.000

After one month in the keg it tasted like Candy Floss.
Now it's 6 weeks old and it just gets better.
Very nice. 5 star recipe.

For a beer that is 1.000 gravity it's very nice.
A bit like a corona but with taste.
As in can see in the pic it's very clean now.

I had too google Candy Floss Had no clue.... As it pertains to beer I was thinking it was not good! Now I know what you mean.

When this beer is young or freshly carbonated it has a very acrid dryness, more so from forced carbonation and the fact its really flippin' dry. (FG .000) As you discoved it gets better, much better with some time chilled and kegged.

I really like this beer when its hot out and its one that doesn't drain your wallet. Either on grain or hops. Not to mention light beer drinkers love this beer.

I notice you didn't dry hop your beer. I don't think I ever made this w/o dry hopping it, but I think I'd still like it none the less.

I'm glad you had good success with this recipe!

Cheers!

Hi Schlenkerla

Actually I made a mistake.
It was 10 weeks not 6 weeks that is got better.
Just has another one tonite with a Red Curry.
It's getting better I may have to plan another brew before I empty the keg.
May be next time triple hop to see if makes a difference.

Candy floss was the taste I got when it was green.
I assume it was from the corn?

Great result from the US-05 yeast, taste just like a lager.
It was naturally carbonated in the keg and tapped 4 weeks old.
I normally like my brews to mature for 2-3 months but tapped this one early as I dont brew in the summer so was low on stocks.

As this was me second All Grain I'm now very happy with the result and would suggest this as a good beginners all grain to do.

Thanks

My best friend, God love him is a DIE HARD Coors light drinker, most of my beers he cant stand, but i did this one as a Light Beer for him and he loved it.It is an ale since i dont do lagers, but i did keep it very cool for a neutral ferment(55-58 degrees). I also used Gelatin Fining in Secondary.

Real Mans Light Beer



Type: All Grain
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Boil Size: 8.00 gal Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 60 min

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
3.00 lb Pale Malt, Golden Promise (Thomas Fawcett) (3.0 SRM) Grain 42.86 %
2.00 lb Pale Malt (6 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 28.57 %
1.00 lb Corn - Yellow, Flaked (Briess) (1.3 SRM) Grain 14.29 %
1.00 lb Honey Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 14.29 %
0.75 oz Amarillo [8.50 %] (10 min) Hops 10.0 IBU
1.00 tsp Amylase Enzyme (Secondary After 30 day Primary) Misc
1 Pkgs Nottingham (Danstar #-) Yeast-Ale



Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.039 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.009 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 3.83 %
Bitterness: 10.0 IBU
Est Color: 6.1 SRM


Mash Profile

Single Infusion, Light Body
75 min Mash In Add 8.75 qt of water at 161.4 F 150.0 F
10 min Mash Out Add 5.60 qt of water at 200.2 F 168.0 F

Vance71975 said:

My best friend, God love him is a DIE HARD Coors light drinker, most of my beers he cant stand, but i did this one as a Light Beer for him and he loved it.It is an ale since i dont do lagers, but i did keep it very cool for a neutral ferment(55-58 degrees). I also used Gelatin Fining in Secondary.

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Vance71975,

While I appreciate the reply regarding a light beer made with AE. Your recipe is basically an all together different recipe. Its kind of like spam or an advertisement in the middle of this thread.

I am sorry, you should post it in an entirely new thread.

It might have thought differently if you commented on the benefits of AE then posted a hyperlink to your posted recipe thread.

Not to mention, posting two different recipes will confuse the heck out people. Especially when questions and comments come up later. Not trying to be a jerk here, just think about it for a minute.

BTW - I am the OP, so I field most of the questions.

So everything went good with the brew & primary.


I moved it to secondary after 10 days, and it's the 4th day since transfer & adding the amylase, but I'm seeing very little to no activity. I thought I read someone saying you might need a blow off at this stage...am I missing something here?



Thanks!

Valis said:

So everything went good with the brew & primary.


I moved it to secondary after 10 days, and it's the 4th day since transfer & adding the amylase, but I'm seeing very little to no activity. I thought I read someone saying you might need a blow off at this stage...am I missing something here?



Thanks!

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No, sometimes is very slow going. The carboy will have lots of tiny bubbles coming up but it works very slowly. Watch the airlock.

Also, how low do you think it was to 1.000 when you racked on top of the AE.

My first batch could have used a blow off but I wound up just swapping out the air lock after it simmered down. Since that first time I never had that issue. I think its been more like what you are seeing.

I may have racked it at something like 1.012, early, like on the 6th or 7th day. I generally wait longer so, it tends to be tamer in the secondary. So the yeast has less to do say at 1.005.

Oops... wrong thread .

One day I'll pay for a membership and be able to delete posts.

Well now you have me wondering? What thread were you after.

I had meant to post in BierMuncher's Cream of Three Crops thread. This beer is going on my to-do list too. I've needed some beers to please BMC drinkers. This looks like a good one too!

@Schlenkeria - Got my 2nd batch kegged now, in the cold for a few weeks to carb up and also remove the dried / parched flavor.

Did the first batch with all sorachi ace, and it was *way* too lemon-y. My own fault, had never used the hop before and wanted to get an idea of its flavor. I can see how mixing it with a few others would be a nice balance.

Second batch is an all cascade batch, dryhopped with cascade as well. It's funny, it was such a light color to begin with I think the cascade dryhopping actually turned it GREEN! Might be my eyes playing tricks on me. Tasted it flat, and it's deliciously light, crisp, with a slight hop flavor, no aftertaste, basically the ideal light beer for me - especially since I'm not equipped to lager.

Anyways I will take pics and post an update. Thanks again for the recipe. Economic and a crowd-pleaser to boot.

I brewed this yesterday. I added extra 2 row because my efficiency usually stinks. Mashed at 148 for 90. 90 minute boil. 2/3 ounce cascade @ 60. 2/3 ounce cascade at flameout. O.G was high (1.045) due to extra grain and high efficiency with 90 minute mash. US-05.

RatCity said:

@Schlenkeria - Got my 2nd batch kegged now, in the cold for a few weeks to carb up and also remove the dried / parched flavor.

Anyways I will take pics and post an update. Thanks again for the recipe. Economic and a crowd-pleaser to boot.

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You are welcome. I'm glad this beer worked out for you. Looking forward to seeing the pictures. If you want try another crowd pleaser try these recipes in my recipe drop down.

Tasmanian Pale Ale

Quaffable Irish Red

House Amber

Sorry for not reading through all 31 pages of comments (I made it through the first 12) but I have a simple questions on how to use the 1.00 Tsp Amylase Enzyme 14 Days( 2ndary fermenter). I have never used this before and want to know do I disolve this in a small aount of water and add it to the secondary prior to racking or after racking?

Would the addition of 0.25 lbs of Carapils be recommended at all for this type of beer to improve mouthfeel? I have not attempted a light beer like this before.

I would like to make this for a wedding in October and want to know how well would it keep until that time (8 weeks from now).

Also, what should I use if I cannot find American 6 row? There is no LHBS near me (within 70 miles).

Thanks,

msa8967 said:

Sorry for not reading through all 31 pages of comments (I made it through the first 12) but I have a simple questions on how to use the 1.00 Tsp Amylase Enzyme 14 Days( 2ndary fermenter). I have never used this before and want to know do I disolve this in a small aount of water and add it to the secondary prior to racking or after racking?

Would the addition of 0.25 lbs of Carapils be recommended at all for this type of beer to improve mouthfeel? I have not attempted a light beer like this before.

I would like to make this for a wedding in October and want to know how well would it keep until that time (8 weeks from now).

Also, what should I use if I cannot find American 6 row? There is no LHBS near me (within 70 miles).

Thanks,

Click to expand...

Mick,

Add the AE to the empty 2ndary and rack to it. Thats all.

The more time you have the better. Cold conditioning is good for this beer are its carbed up.

If you can try going to the Hyvee Liquors in or near Hiawatha. They might have 6-row. They have HB Supplies. Its on Collins west of the N/S express way. If not use 2-row or pale malt.


Are you part of the CR Homebrew Club? Cedar Rapids Beer Nuts. If not, google them.

I need to update my account to show that I live in North Liberty now. I will be in CR on Saturday and will try the Hy-Vee you mentioned. I went to both Hy-Vee stores here that carry a few supplies and they do not have it. Wish I lived closer to DSM to go to Beer Crazy.

Add the AE to the empty 2ndary and rack to it. Thats all.

So the AE powder can go in dry w/o needing to be dissolved in warm water first. Glad you told me. I am really looking forward to trying this recipe. Thanks for the reply.

msa8967 said:

I need to update my account to show that I live in North Liberty now. I will be in CR on Saturday and will try the Hy-Vee you mentioned. I went to both Hy-Vee stores here that carry a few supplies and they do not have it. Wish I lived closer to DSM to go to Beer Crazy.

Add the AE to the empty 2ndary and rack to it. Thats all.

So the AE powder can go in dry w/o needing to be dissolved in warm water first. Glad you told me. I am really looking forward to trying this recipe. Thanks for the reply.

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Thats correct! No problem. Hope brew day goes well.

Sorry if I missed this somehow, I did read through.

How would this work with a different hop, such as Amarillo or such?

Obviously would have to tame the Amarillo down more so its not overpowering.

Most definitely. Yes use a recipe calculator to hit the ibu target. 16-18 IBUs Using the correct amount to do the three hop additions. The last not being super critical, dry or late.

Try this place if you don't have a calculator. Http://www.recipator.com

I have tried 4 different liquor stores in the area that carry a limited selection of home brewing supplies and none of them have 6 row. Is there anything else I could add to make sure I convert as much as possible with this recipe?

Schlenkeria - Just finished my all cascade keg of this. It was delicious, and a hit with anyone who drank it. Crisp, light, but flavorful. Time to brew up the second batch!





(We call it Duff beer in this house). The cascade gave it a nice citrusy note, but I feel like I want a more traditional lager taste for my next batch (brewing today), so i'm using Saaz instead. Would you recommend dry hopping with Saaz (or any noble hop) as well, or just doing boil hop additions?

Thanks again for the kickass recipe!

msa8967 said:

I have tried 4 different liquor stores in the area that carry a limited selection of home brewing supplies and none of them have 6 row. Is there anything else I could add to make sure I convert as much as possible with this recipe?

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Use any light pale malt. Possibly just use 2-row, or the most common one, pale malt.

Its not the same, but side by side taste testing I think would prove difficult to tell the difference. Its more likely to have very slight color differences, but neglible on taste.

RatCity said:

Schlenkeria - Just finished my all cascade keg of this. It was delicious, and a hit with anyone who drank it. Crisp, light, but flavorful. Time to brew up the second batch!

View attachment 31763

View attachment 31764

(We call it Duff beer in this house). The cascade gave it a nice citrusy note, but I feel like I want a more traditional lager taste for my next batch (brewing today), so i'm using Saaz instead. Would you recommend dry hopping with Saaz (or any noble hop) as well, or just doing boil hop additions?

Thanks again for the kickass recipe!

Click to expand...

You are welcome. Glad you like it. Saaz would be good for any of the hop additions. If you dry hop with pellets use a hop sack to keep the particulate matter low. You might want to weight it down too. Glass marbles work good for this.

Any noble hop would work. German or Czech.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hops

(amazing that this thread has been going on for so long - this is a really great site)

Am wanting to do this as my first all grain. I plan to do BIAB in my 7.5gal pot. My question is after I get my "Total Mash Volume Gal: 2.30 - Dough-In Infusion Only" how do I get to my "Pre-Boil Wort Size: 6.85 Gal"? Do I just add some water after that or would it be better to somehow sparge until I get it up to 6.85 gal? I probably can only do about a 6gal boil anyway. I usually get 5gals from a 6gal boil.
I hope I'm on the right track.

Thanks,