I'm almost ready to plug it in and see what happens

Two remaining questions/issues remain.

One, most of the diagrams that I have looked at have the contactor between the SSR and the heating element. I wired my contactor between the power source and the SSR. So until I activate my contactor no power will flow to the SSR. Is there any reason why I shouldn't do this?

Two, I need to solder the thermostat wires to the connectors. How do you hold the wire against the connector post while soldering it? Do you pinch the post to hold the wire?

Re: #1 - There is no problem doing it that way. None what so ever. The raw power is still isolated from the element/kettle.

#2 - I would tin the wire and the tab on the connector with a small amount of solder. (Be sure to use radio solder - electrical solder.) Once the 2 parts are tinned, lay the wire on the tab and just reheat it and then holding the wire steady & allow it to cool and solidify. Another way (if you are game) would be to drill a small hole in the tab and then place the tip of the wire in it and solder. I frequently use the 1st method without issues.

Hope this helps.

you still alive, Hunter?

Walker said:

you still alive, Hunter?

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lol great post

I agree with P-J on both points. I wired my contactors in between the power and the SSR to make sure the SSR is cold when the contactor is off. Since SSRs tend to fail in the closed (on) state and contactors tend to fail in the open (off) state, I thought this was safest.

As for #2, the first method P-J mentions is how I learned to solder. Tin both pieces, lay them together and heat until solder flows.

-Joe

Walker said:

you still alive, Hunter?

Click to expand...

Yes ... at least for now. My first water test should be tonight. If all goes well I will post some photos of the worlds most expensive single PID system.