ebay aquarium temp controller build

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It is very simple. You set F1 to the temp that you want the tank to be at, then set F2 to how many degrees you want the temp to either climb or drop before the heater or cooler turns on. When the temp gets past that F2 setting in either direction it turns on the heater or the cooler.
 
I thought about that too (wiring it into both would have the effect of the heat relay turning on the cooling device, and vice versa), but I ultimately decided that the fan really uses such low wattage, and that it will still provide a small benefit, that I was better off just providing the fan an"always on" power source.

Hmmm, yeah I suppose you're right. I may just leave it on all the time.
Still a little curious as to how one would wire it with a relay though.
who knows, I may even have the parts lying around after all!
 
OK, so I just ordered my stc1000 - how quickly are people seeing these shipped? Ebay listing estimates late July or early August before I get it - is this pretty typical?
 
Dang - I should've ordered the thing as soon as I started building my fermentation chamber! Now I've got this great big box in the basement and 2-3 weeks before I can do anything with it! ;)
 
Cool - I actually got notification this morning that mine's already shipped, so hopefully I'll see similar results to you both.

Next question: is this controller the same one as in the OP? Most importantly, will the wiring diagram in the OP be sufficient to get mine wired up, or is there another specific post in one of the other 160 pages of this thread that is applicable to the STC-1000?

Looks like all I need to pick up is a project box and an extension cord (unless I can dig up a good computer plug... hmmm), so not much more outlay here, which is nice.
 
android's first post has a good wiring diagram, it's the one I used.
Be careful if using a computer power cord, most of them are only 18 gauge. To safely use your controller at it's rated output, you want to use 14 gauge. 12 gauge is as big as I could fit in the controller connectors.
I got a 10 foot 14 gauge extension cord at Harbor Freight for $8 if I recall correctly.
 
@ stratslinger- There are many other diagrams in this thread, but the one in the OP will work fine.

@ Dukeman- It's pretty easy, just follow the wiring diagrams posted in this thread and you should be fine.
 
Thought I'd post my feedback. I ordered 3 110v STC-1000s on June 28 from hkaquarium2010. He shipped my controllers the next day and I received them on July 9th. All three controllers are marked as 110v but I haven't gotten around to building a box yet to verify.

I just wanted to post my experience with this seller. I went with hkaquarium because it was the cheapest and I was ordering three. Had I just ordered one I may have gone with one of the previously mentioned vendors. Regardless, I was happy with the transaction. :D
 
Im using my ferm chamber for the second time. This thing really kicks butt. I have 2 buckets and a BB in there, 15g total. It turns on quite a bit, but the temp on the controller is the same temp on all 3 buckets' lcd's. So glad I built this. Many thanks to Android for a great find and diy project.
 
Im using my ferm chamber for the second time. This thing really kicks butt. I have 2 buckets and a BB in there, 15g total. It turns on quite a bit, but the temp on the controller is the same temp on all 3 buckets' lcd's. So glad I built this. Many thanks to Android for a great find and diy project.

If it clicks on and off too much, adjust the F3 setting (if I remember correctly) to 1.5 or 2C swing. This will let the temperature vary a bit more but your appliance will cut on and off less.

M_C
 
I just finished building mine. Just need to stick a couple of labels on it and I'll take pics for everyone to see.
I ended up not using a relay to control a fan. Instead I just bought a 120VAC fan that'll be on the same plug as my little 15w reptile terrarium heater that I'll be using for heat.

What have people found to be the best F2 temp differential to set on this thing?
And what about the compressor delay time?
 
krazydave said:
I just finished building mine. Just need to stick a couple of labels on it and I'll take pics for everyone to see.
I ended up not using a relay to control a fan. Instead I just bought a 120VAC fan that'll be on the same plug as my little 15w reptile terrarium heater that I'll be using for heat.

So the fan is only on with the heat?
 
Im sure this has already been addressed, but has anyone ever used these to control asco/solenoid valves on a brutus?
 
Im sure this has already been addressed, but has anyone ever used these to control asco/solenoid valves on a brutus?

I'm using two of the fahrenheit single stage units to control the pump and furnace valve on my HERMS. They were quite a bit cheaper than the STC-1000's, and I don't need dual stage for this application. They also have SS probes which is a bonus IMO. Here's what they look like mounted in my ghetto control panel.

Tucson-20110620-00085.jpg
 
So the fan is only on with the heat?

I'm actually still trying to decide... I just plugged in the controller about 20 min ago and already realize that the coils get so cold trying to cool it down that by the time it shuts off, if drops another degree or two which then tries to cycle the heater.
So I may just have the fan running all the time... or, I guess I could deal with a relay at some point so it'll only run when the heating or cooling relays are on.
I think the latter may still give the same problem as I have now though.

One thing to note though is that I still have the temp probe in free air, so it's probably affecting the differential a lot more than it will when I finally get it measuring some fermenting wort.
 
I have a fan primarily to deal with condensation, so during cooling is the most important part.
 
I think you're definitely on to something.
I just plugged the fan in and am leaving it on all the time and it's already made a huge difference.
 
So here's the mostly finished product. Using a 4x4x4 box from Lowes.
I have a blue neon lamp to replace the amber one on it's way.. amber and red don't look a whole lot different when they're lit up!

4481-a.jpg
 
bucfanmike said:
krazydave, can you share your method of wiring in the different temp probe. I guess what I am reluctant to say is "can i see inside your box"?

It wires in the same as any temp probe, he just wired it onto a headphone connector. I was actually going to do the same once all my stuff got here.
 
Yeah, it's just a 1/8" mono headphone jack.
I did have to take a larger drillbit on the inside and thin it out enough for me to get the locking ring on the outside though.
I'm just a little anal about how things look, so I didn't want to just drill a hole and run a wire through.
 
Did you use a decora receptacle on the bottom? I've been looking for a way to keep it lower profile than using wall plates, and I've been looking for some sort of female panel mount receptacle, but can't really find any.

My only concern with using decora outlets is that unless the hole you cut is *perfect*, it's going to look like crap.
 
Did you use a decora receptacle on the bottom? I've been looking for a way to keep it lower profile than using wall plates, and I've been looking for some sort of female panel mount receptacle, but can't really find any.

My only concern with using decora outlets is that unless the hole you cut is *perfect*, it's going to look like crap.

I used a decora outlet for one of my controllers. I scribed the hole size using the outlet as a template, cut the hole slightly undersize with a coping saw, and then snuck up on the final dimensions with a sharp utility knife. Very clean looking, and the grey decora outlet matches the grey of the box so it blends in nicely.
 
Yes, it's a Decora. I had to take the tabs off the corners and grind the holes for the faceplate off to get it to fit inside.
Cutting the hole wasn't too bad though, I just took the receptacle and traced it's size into the box with an X-acto. Then drilled two holes at opposing corners and used a jigsaw to cut it out. Then I took a file and filed it to the size I needed.
As long as you stay in the lines with the saw, you can keep the hole straight with the file.
Just take your time on it.

And I do agree that they have grey Decora outlets at Lowes also, but it was three times the price for whatever reason. Black looks good to me! ;)

2011-07-17_13-01-24_489.jpg
 
Oh, and cut the square hole first, then use the plug as a guide to drill the mounting holes.
There are nuts on the back of those screws to keep the receptacle solid.
 
I finished my build. I think I could have used a slightly larger project box (it was tight working in there, but I got it all working, first try). I just need a temperature conversion chart to stick on the box. :)

controller1.jpg

controller2.jpg
 
More details...

I cut the square hole for the controller with a dremel and I very carefully cut the outlet holes with a dremel and a pocket knife so it would look good (I started with a hole from a large drill bit). They are secured to the lid with nuts on the back side.

The power cord hole is drilled and I used a zip tie around the cord inside for tension relief. I have no tension relief on the probe wire currently (small drilled hole), but I probably want to look into that.

My power cord was a 16AWG computer power cable. It is stranded wire which was a bit of a pain but it works.
 
So, what's the fitting you used on the power cord? I was looking at Lowe's yesterday and couldn't find anything that suited my OCD. I'm not even sure what they're called so I can do a search.

Thanks.

It's called a cord restraint... Lowes had them in the same section as the grey boxes. I've never been a big fan of the metal clamp types that others have been using for their boxes.
 
Very cool - and where exactly did you get those lamps? Are they just wired up directly in line with their outlets, or is there some additional wiring necessary to get them working correctly?

I really like your design, and may well steal it outright, or just steal components of it. If only I had a good tool for making very exact cuts for the outlet like you did...
 
Very cool - and where exactly did you get those lamps? Are they just wired up directly in line with their outlets, or is there some additional wiring necessary to get them working correctly?

I really like your design, and may well steal it outright, or just steal components of it. If only I had a good tool for making very exact cuts for the outlet like you did...

Fry's Electronics... They're 120vac Neon lamps.
To wire them, just wire one side to your neutral block and the other to the heating or cooling relay with your receptacle. You can either attach it to the receptacle, or the back of the STC-1000. I chose the latter of the two since the lamps are on the cover right next to the STC-1000.

I mentioned earlier that I cut the holes with a drill to start and jigsaw to finish. Just stay inside the lines and use a file to get it to where you want it.
If you take your time, you can get pretty clean cuts that fit exactly.


EDIT: I should also mention that Mouser sells the lamps online, in blue nonetheless. Shipping was a little steep though. Also, Radio shack sells the lamps as well, but the two near me only had red lamps.
 
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