PID Question

Ordered my supplies from eBrewSupply for my control box and ordered my PID/Timer from Auber separately - ordered a 2352 instead of a 2362. I plan on only having 1 5500w element - do I need to return the 2352 for the 2362 or will I be fine? I believe I went with the 2352 because of TheElectricBrewery.com ... it's a deviation from my wiring schematic so I don't want to screw anything up.

The Auber website does not have good side-by-side comparison information for the PIDs, but the 2352 is perfectly suitable for brewing. Unless you are looking for something specific from the 2362 above and beyond the capabilities to set a setpoint for the mash and switch to manual for a boil, you should be fine.

I could be wrong but i think you should base it on amps? If your running a 110v the 2352 should do it as its rated to 25amps (I think). If your running 220v the 2362 is the way to go as its 40amps. I bet the 2362 could run 110v fine, but I doubt the 2352 could run 220v. Check what kind of line your running for the system and base it on that. I needed the 2362 because I run a 220v 30amp system with my 5500watt heating element.

TahoeRy said:

I could be wrong but i think you should base it on amps? If your running a 110v the 2352 should do it as its rated to 25amps (I think). If your running 220v the 2362 is the way to go as its 40amps. I bet the 2362 could run 110v fine, but I doubt the 2352 could run 220v. Check what kind of line your running for the system and base it on that. I needed the 2362 because I run a 220v 30amp system with my 5500watt heating element.

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That was my concern - but both kal and PJ have the 2352 wired with a 30a 5500w system. Look at PJs wiring scheme for this solution - http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a4-5500w-BIAB-30d6.jpg

I should probably follow that vs the one Ryan sent me and use the breakers vs. fuses in PJs diagram.

That's almost exactly what I did on my 5500 element HLT with a herms system except I used the 2362. I don't like running thing at their max capacity so I went with the 40amp setup relying on my breaker to blow if overloaded and I don't have to worry about burning out any components. Make sure you get a heat sink for your SSR. They run hot and require the heat sink.

TahoeRy said:

I could be wrong but i think you should base it on amps? If your running a 110v the 2352 should do it as its rated to 25amps (I think). If your running 220v the 2362 is the way to go as its 40amps. I bet the 2362 could run 110v fine, but I doubt the 2352 could run 220v. Check what kind of line your running for the system and base it on that. I needed the 2362 because I run a 220v 30amp system with my 5500watt heating element.

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This is incorrect. You can definitely use either device on a 220v 30a system. Neither produces enough output power to drive a 5500w element without an SSR or mechanical relay (an SSR is more suitable for frequent switching). I believe each will take either 110v or 220v as input. Typical configuration is to drive the PID with 110v, fuse it because it needs less than an amp, and have it switch either a 25a or 40a SSR that drives the 220v 5500w element (often with a DPST mechanical between the SSR and element to provide a certain "off" switch).

This is the diagram I have - no LED's because my switches are the push-button LED's.