Cheap compact wort pump

Yakima 728
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Dropped my little tan pump (into sanitizer) on Monday, and broke off the two mounting tabs. It carried on working fine though. I guess I need to find a U shaped clamp to clamp it to the piece of wood I attached it and the switch to.

I think I might also be looking for a more powerful pump, as my cooling rate by recirculating through the kettle and CFC chiller is massively limited by the flow rate of the pump - the output cooling water is barely warm, even with the water flow set to about 1/4 of maximum. I guess a Chugger or March is the safe option here. I'd keep the little tan pump as a potential RIMS pump though.
 
Recirculation pumps are not a good thing. Gravity is a good thing. I use gravity. No priming issues, no cavitation issues, unlikely to have motor failure or get clogged up.
 
bethebrew said:
Recirculation pumps are not a good thing. Gravity is a good thing. I use gravity. No priming issues, no cavitation issues, unlikely to have motor failure or get clogged up.
Click to expand...

How do you recirculate with gravity, exactly?
 
bethebrew said:
Recirculation pumps are not a good thing. Gravity is a good thing. I use gravity. No priming issues, no cavitation issues, unlikely to have motor failure or get clogged up.
Click to expand...

If you have the right pump, recirculating with a pump is a beautiful thing. Flip a switch and wait 10-20 minutes and you have brilliantly clear wort.
 
I used my little tan pump this weekend for the first time, and while I would say it is a bit of a challenge getting the pump to prime properly to push fluids through, once it gets going, it works really well. I can see the allure of "self-priming pumps" after using this little guy.

Overall, I'm super satisfied and feel that this is a great value at $20.
 
bethebrew said:
Recirculation pumps are not a good thing. Gravity is a good thing. I use gravity. No priming issues, no cavitation issues, unlikely to have motor failure or get clogged up.
Click to expand...

My HLT does not care about cavitation.

While many are using these to move wort, I will use as a HLT recirculation only.

Tim
 
Can someone tell me what camlock fittings I would need for each side of the tan wonder (i.e. input and output) if I wanted to pick them up from, say, Bargain Fittings? Use small words, and speak to me as if I had a head injury, or something.
 
From BrewHardware:

Type A

If you use the make camlock parts on all equipment, use female camlocks on your hoses. That way, either end of the hose works.

Best tip I've had fir ages came from Bobby. Use a little keg lube on the cams when you first get them. It'll be MUCH easier to make them work. After they've been worked a few times, they won't need the lube any more. Thanks, Bobby!

image.jpg
 
ianw58 said:
From BrewHardware:

Type A

If you use the make camlock parts on all equipment, use female camlocks on your hoses. That way, either end of the hose works.

Best tip I've had fir ages came from Bobby. Use a little keg lube on the cams when you first get them. It'll be MUCH easier to make them work. After they've been worked a few times, they won't need the lube any more. Thanks, Bobby!
Click to expand...

Or a type A on the outlet and a type D (femal camlock x female NPT/BSP) on the inlet, this way you could hook it straight to the outlet and then the hose on to that.
 
Welp, my wife is in Chicago for the weekend, so I needed a project to keep me sane. Since I had my tan wonder pump, I decided to pull the somewhat-pricey trigger on two ball valves, a 90-degree elbow for a whirlpool, and a thermometer for my brew kettle. Combined with some high-temp silicone hose, some hose clamps, and an old DC power supply from my (very unsuccessful) PC watercooling days and a few trips to the local Tru Value, I give you my own incarnation of the cheap wort pump:

PZrKfSF.jpg

Here is the tan wonder, mounted to a Radio Shack project box and outfitted with a SPDT (Single-Pole Double-Throw) switch. I would have preferred a pump caddy of some kind, but I wanted to brew without worrying that I was risking shorting out the wiring.

A1aq9nU.jpg

No fooling, that power supply can deliver 12V of direct current at 17 freaking amps. I had blown a couple of wall warts and was rummaging through my garbage bag of surplus computer parts when I looked up and saw this bad boy on the shelf. No chance of the tan wonder outrunning this thing! I attached 15 feet of extension cord to the project box so I can keep the power supply well out of the reach of any liquid.

jjzTQzi.jpg

Here's my newly upgraded el cheapo, lightweight aluminum brewpot. The fittings are worth infinitely more than the pot itself, which I got with my propane burner at Lowe's. The metal is so lightweight that I didn't even bother with a step bit; a 1" spade bit with occasional sprays of silicone lubricant and I was through.

The equipment is all from morebeer.com, and is extremly well put together. All in all, a successful build day. I'm looking forward to being able to cool my wort without having to deal with the inevitable wild yeast contamination, which plagues all of my batches. At the end of the boil, I plan to lid up (with some notches cut into the lid to deal with the immersion chiller), fire up the tan wonder, sit back, and watch the temps drop.
 
i ended up buying the Topsflo one from brewingpump.com. I figure go with the bigger one with SS NPT for $70 aint bad. I'll fit it to a laptop charger or something similar soon
 
I have only one to say about these pumps save your money and buy a chugger. I have been through 5 of these enough to buy a chugger which I finally did. Now happier than a pig in poop .:D
 
greyghost said:
I have only one to say about these pumps save your money and buy a chugger. I have been through 5 of these enough to buy a chugger which I finally did. Now happier than a pig in poop .:D
Click to expand...

I like my little cheap pump, but no way in hell i'd buy 5. If anything this little thing has made me want a real pump more.
 
Krusher said:
Hi there guys just read threw all 54 pages and i was wonder about a pump to transfer wine from my carboy or plastic conical threw one those filter plates or whole house filter .what you guys think bout this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-RV-Mari..._Accessories_Gear&hash=item2323ea6bd4&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...

I have seen other ones like this one that say they are food safe. One could probably take that this is food safe since it mentions they can be used in RV's, Mobile Homes for sinks and taps.
 
I thought the same thing when I first read the description. Then I realized that they specifically avoided calling it food safe. With good reason... It probably isn't since labeling it so requires some serious hoops.
 
greyghost said:
I have only one to say about these pumps save your money and buy a chugger. I have been through 5 of these enough to buy a chugger which I finally did. Now happier than a pig in poop .:D
Click to expand...

You do have perserverance :D I would have thrown in the towel at 2!
It is funny that some here have had no issues what so ever on these pumps, and others have repeated failures. If you don't mind me asking, and can remember, what power supply (secondary voltage, current, US/China supplier) did you have?
 
I think the consensus is that it's probably not food safe, and not worth the risk.

However why not email the seller?
 
Mojzis said:
I think the consensus is that it's probably not food safe, and not worth the risk.

However why not email the seller?
Click to expand...

The tan p38 pump is food safe and now theres both a more powerful 24v version and the 12v version on both amazon and ebay...
I have to say after reading this whole thread I find it kind of funny how some have it mounted so low with increased headspace and complain of flow... also one guy was only running at 3/4 power with a 9.5v power supply... These things as well as the inside diameter of your valves, fittings and hoses all have a huge effect on power output.... And it kinda stands to reason these tiny pumps dont handle solids well they are for liquid... you cant really blame the pump for contaminants.
 
greyghost said:
I have only one to say about these pumps save your money and buy a chugger. I have been through 5 of these enough to buy a chugger which I finally did. Now happier than a pig in poop .:D
Click to expand...

How were you using your pump? I would like to use mine, as suggested by many in this thread, only to recirculate water for my HERMS HLT. If these things are **** for even this, I could stand to save $20.
 
I did some more research and the manufacturers of these types of pumps say these pumps are not to have the flow restricted for long periods of time (using a ball valve to restrict flow will cause them to strain and overheat) This would explain why some have had issues with them overheating and seizing...
Ive had aquarium pumps do this when the water level in my sump got too low and they start to run dry. I wonder If partially grain plugged lines are also to blame in some cases.
I purchased two of the 12v ones but if they work well I may buy the stronger 24v versions since I splurged and spent $12 on two pwm variable speed controllers that are rated at 12-30v to control the flow the right way. Plus I think they will complement the electric brewing panel Im building well with all the orders Ive placed for pids and switches and relays lately, ebay, bargain fittings and the shipping guys are loving me
 
ok guys i emailed 2 of the sellers

this what i said
Is this food grade .i want to pump some lemonade for storage tank to tap

Seller one said
hello dear friend
good day to you
thanks a lot for your kind message
i feel sorry that it cannot
sincerely
jane


Seller two said
Hello,

This pump is made for potable water so this should work for your application.

If you have any questions please feel free to ask.

Thank You,
 
Krusher said:
ok guys i emailed 2 of the sellers

this what i said
Is this food grade .i want to pump some lemonade for storage tank to tap

Seller one said
hello dear friend
good day to you
thanks a lot for your kind message
i feel sorry that it cannot
sincerely
jane


Seller two said
Hello,

This pump is made for potable water so this should work for your application.

If you have any questions please feel free to ask.

Thank You,
Click to expand...
If you look at the pics posted for the tan p38 pump you can see the magnet is ceramic coated because its food grade... I just ordered a 12v-24 black 12lpm version which is also fda approved for food use for 28 bucks on amazon today.... its the same one as the black one that is on ebay for 125.00 bucks and used to be 25 bucks before the ebay seller realized the demand was greater than anticipated and jacked the price up... this is mentions here in this thread too about 10 pages back I think.... the other three pumps mentioned are the topsflo which is 60 to 70 bucks and is food grade as well as the two other cheapy black 12v pumps which have exposed magnets and are not food grade.
the white version of the p38 12 and 24v pumps are also food grade.
 
Krusher said:
ok guys i emailed 2 of the sellers

this what i said
Is this food grade .i want to pump some lemonade for storage tank to tap

Seller one said
hello dear friend
good day to you
thanks a lot for your kind message
i feel sorry that it cannot
sincerely
jane


Seller two said
Hello,

This pump is made for potable water so this should work for your application.

If you have any questions please feel free to ask.

Thank You,
Click to expand...
If you look at the pics posted you can see the magnet is coated because its food grade... I just ordered a 12v-24 black 12lpm version which is also fda approved for food use for 28 bucks on amazon today..(topsflo).
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F4TVYJS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20.
its the same one as the black one that is on ebay for 60-135.00 bucks and used to be 25 bucks before the ebay sellers realized the demand was greater than anticipated and jacked the price up... this is mentions here in this thread too about 10 pages back I think.... the other three pumps mentioned are the cheapy black 12v pumps which have exposed magnets and are not food grade.
the white version of the p38 12 and 24v pumps are also food grade.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This pump also comes with a disclaimer "Pumps cannot continuously work at high temperature".
 
So question so do you guys think the little tan pump would be able to push wine threw a 5 micron 10 inch whole filter and the threw a 1 micron filter?
 
I would buy the 24v version that's almost twice as powerful. Better yet spend the extra $10 and get the black food grade topsflo pump from Amazon. That's twice as powerful as the 12v tan one... I bought both but I'm still assembling my electric brew setup and I'm waiting for the pwm controllers from china.
 
I just picked up the p38i pump and a cheap 10amp DC controller off eBay.

I know its been mentioned but. . .

The ATX power supply on your old home computer (everyone has at least one lying around or go to your local electronics recycle depot) can be easily converted into a full time DC power supply.

Huge current available (DC motors like current) and a super clean 12 volt signal.

I'll post pics once I get mine built!
 
All it took to get one of the atx supplies from my spare parts box to work was to wire the green and black wires together with a switch...

The 24v versions are the same price though so I wish I had seen them sooner...
I have plenty of 24v supplies from the machines I service.
 
KPSquared said:
I just picked up the p38i pump and a cheap 10amp DC controller off eBay.

I know its been mentioned but. . .

The ATX power supply on your old home computer (everyone has at least one lying around or go to your local electronics recycle depot) can be easily converted into a full time DC power supply.

Huge current available (DC motors like current) and a super clean 12 volt signal.

I'll post pics once I get mine built!
Click to expand...

They don't always deliver huge current on the 12V line though so check the specs of whichever one you have.
 

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