PM - Gilda

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Brewtopia

"Greenwood Aged Beer"
Joined
Oct 20, 2006
Messages
2,295
Reaction score
26
Location
Seattle, WA
Recipe Type
Partial Mash
Yeast
Wyeast 3278 Lambic Blend
Yeast Starter
Yes
Batch Size (Gallons)
5
Original Gravity
1.054
Final Gravity
1.013
Boiling Time (Minutes)
60
IBU
15
Color
24
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp)
30 @ 70 degrees
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp)
180 @ 70 degrees
Additional Fermentation
1 year @ 70 degrees in keg.
Gilda.jpeg
Flanders Style Red

2 lb Belgian 2 row Pale Malt
10 oz. German Vienna Malt
8 oz. Belgian Cara Vienna Malt
4 oz. Acid Malt
3 oz. Chocolate Malt
3 lbs Light DME
1 lb. Clear Candi Sugar
2 oz. Lactose

.05 oz. Styrian Goldings (60 min.)
.05 oz. Brewer's Gold (15 min.)
.05 oz. Kent Goldings (3 min.)

2 oz. Stavin Med. Toast French Oak Cubes (in the keg)

Mash grain at 150 for 60 minutes. Sparge with 170 degree water.
 
Hi, I'm trying a Sour for the first time... mostly done porters and pales up till now. I have a couple questions: Is all that aging really necessary? and can i use glass instead of a keg for the tertiary fermentation? and lastly, do I need to innocculate with any L. acidophilus or any other acid producers to achieve the desired result?
thanks,
WaterTower Brewery
 
The Acid Malt along with the Lactose and yeast strain will produce the desired level of sourness. The beer needs to age a long time before the sourness starts to come through. Also, when I brew this beer again I'll use Wyeast 3763 Roselare. This strain wasn't available when I brewed Gilda so I substituted the Lambic Blend. Roselare is Rodenbach's yeast strain and is the more appropriate yeast for the style. Should produce plenty of acidity. Glass will work fine, but be sure and keep the oak on the beer during this whole time. A plastic bucket would actually be ideal since it would allow for the transfer of oxygen which the yeast really needs to produce the desired level of sourness.
 
I dug out my old Papazian to see what he says on the subject, and came across a dusty old Appendix that covers Lactobacillus souring-- says that the appropriate sourness levels can be reached by adding about a half pound of cracked malt to the already-mashed grain (that is, reserve a half pound of the grain bill to be added after the mash) and let it mash for 15-24 hours at 130-135 F. is this method appropriate for a Flemish Ale?
 
I've read and researched a lot on Flanders red ales, and apparently using a bucket actually exposes the beer to more oxygen than is required. This can lead to a premature pellicle drop. The pellicle is formed by the wild yeast and protects the beer from oxidation. The Wyeast Roeselare Blend is the best for this type of beer, but is harder to find.

This is a great resource on Flanders red ales: http://www2.parc.com/emdl/members/apte/flemishredale.shtml

Check out Aug 3, 2006 1$ barrel: http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=60
 
stupid question, I know, but how red is your red? What gives Gilda and other Flanders Reds their beautiful color?
 
I am looking to brew this beer. I plan on brewing on my birthday this year, and pop her up next bday.

How are the tannins on this beer? I reaaly like tannins, but have never brewed anything with them noticeably present. From my (very) limited understanding I figure tannins come from sparging (too much &/or too hot) & from the oak. Does the oak in this recipe provide much tannins? Or should I fidget around with the sparge to get my tannins.

I am roughly planning on using a plastic bucket. The main downside of the bucket is that I can't watch the pellicle.


I guess I'm reviving a thread that is a bit dated. Brewtopia-not sure if you'll see this, but...I'm bummed I didn't know about your taphouse before. It sounds awesome. We were in seattle last spring & would have dug it. Time for another trip...

Jeff
 
Sorry for ancient thread resurrection, but I had this beer at Hudson pub a couple months back, and it was mighty tasty. Well done! Was the version I enjoyed any different than the recipe above, aside from the switch to Roselare, as you already mentioned?
 
Also resurrecting this one. Brewed a batch three weeks ago and cracked it open this weekend.

Can tell this has the potential to be an awesome beer. I used Roselare Blend and it's got a nice bright taste.

The color for me is way more tawny than red though. Does the color deepen on oak or should I expect it to be about the same from beginning to end?
 
Would I be able to coax into anyone helping me find the equivalent links for each ingredient from www.midwestsupplies.com? I am just a poor extract brewer and now with all of these specific ingredients that appear to have shorter names on their website, I am at a loss for nearly all of the ingredients.:eek:
 
I did my best to match what midwest carries to what was suggested for the recipe. If someone could go though and answer my questions interlocked in the links below I'd appreciate it.

2 lb Belgian 2 row Pale Malt - This right?
10 oz. German Vienna Malt - They just sell one Vienna. This work?
8 oz. Belgian Cara Vienna Malt - Because they just sell one Vienna, should I do a total of 18 oz of the same one?
4 oz. Acid Malt
3 oz. Chocolate Malt
3 lbs Light DME - There are a couple different light ones. How about this?
1 lb. Clear Candi Sugar - This is blonde candi syrup, is this 'clear candi sugar'?
2 oz. Lactose

.05 oz. Styrian Goldings (60 min.)
.05 oz. Brewer's Gold (15 min.) - Didn't find Brewer's gold but it looks like this is an alternative
.05 oz. Kent Goldings (3 min.)

2 oz. Stavin Med. Toast French Oak Cubes (in the keg) - If I am not kegging, when should I add these chips and for how long?
 
Would anyone be able to help with my previous post?

And I assume .05 oz of hops meant .5 oz right?
 
Looked through the rest of your stuff and those subs should be fine. But, to answer your 0.05 vs 0.5 question, he means 0.05. This should have pretty much as close to 0 IBUs as possible, while still getting the antimicrobial properties from the hops.
 
I've got to disagree with that comment about the hops amount. 0.05 ounces is less than the weight of a penny, I doubt you could find a scale that would accurately measure 1/20th of an ounce.

The recipe probably requires .5oz additions.
 
A Flanders Red still has between 10 and 25 IBUs but with .05oz additions you'd get about 1.8 IBUs. Adding .5oz of each hops would bring the IBUs to 18 which is right in the middle of the range for this style.
 
And for the oak, if using cubes, I'd go 8 weeks+

So adding oak cubes when I put it in my secondary and leaving it for a year wouldn't be advisable? -- Do most people just throw it into the carboy a couple months before bottling then?

Checking out flanders red and a couple comparables online, I think the OP did mean 0.5 oz additions. Though I wonder what kind of beast you would get if you did something like 2 oz of aged debittered hops (I happen to have about 14 oz of aged hops left from a lambic I made)... I'd probably be missing out on some key flavors if I did that --but what do I know.
 
A Flanders Red still has between 10 and 25 IBUs but with .05oz additions you'd get about 1.8 IBUs. Adding .5oz of each hops would bring the IBUs to 18 which is right in the middle of the range for this style.

Yeah, sorry, I didn't look at the rest of the recipe other than the hop schedule and assumed we were talking about a lambic. 0.5 would be more appropriate for a Flanders style beer.
 
Brewed this 6 months ago. Gravity at 1.004. No pellicle action. Tasted some, not sour. Should i be worried/do someting or just leave it?

Edit: Ah just found the answer;

Why did my Roeselare beer not sour
Q: I used Roeselare (or some other commercial mixed culture) and it did not sour yet. What do I do?

A: Sometimes Roeselare and other mixed cultures don't get the acidity that you might want. If it hasn't been a year yet, waiting longer may help, but sometimes it doesn't. If after a year the acidity is not high enough for you, try adding fruit such as cherries or raspberries (or even fresh wort). The fruit has various acids in it, and the sugar content will partially be turned into lactic acid by the surviving bacteria (the brewer's yeast will be dead after a year). Brewing with no hops and a very high mash temperature (158°F-160°F) is highly recommended for next time. For more information, see Roeselare and Mixed Fermentation.
 
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