10" banjo burner on NG with gas coontrol valve and a pilot light ?

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brewman !

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I want to run a 10 inch banjo burner like this:

bg14_1.jpg


on natural gas using a gas control valve and a pilot light.

Has anyone done it ?


This guy has... Not many details though.
 
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It's been done.
You need to change out the orifice (the brass fitting in the photo) to one designed for NG (larger hole).
Your pilot orifice needs to be sized for NG as well.
Other than that, it's identical.
 
Any quick links to inexpensive gas control valves that work well ?

I don't think the guy in the youtube vid has any sensor on his pilot light. He is just using a regular solenoid valve to turn the gas on and off and hoping that the pilot is there.

That seems pretty risky to me... I've blown out burners with a bad boil over... I'd want the gas to not start if the pilot is gone.

Furthermore, I might brew outside from time to time. Wind might blow out the pilot.
 
Here is an all-in-one gas valve that will do what you're looking for.
We won't install standing pilot or simple solenoid gas systems on our stand for those very reasons. Dead home brewers aren't much fun.
 
One Hoppy: You have very nice brewstands ! Thanks for sharing your expertise here.

That control valve is an expensive little beastie. Anything less expensive ?
 
Thank you!

Insert maniacal laugh... unfortunately Gas Valve are expensive when you get into the 'right' way of doing things. By the time you buy a less expensive valve and the others parts separately, it costs about the same. Smart Valves take the headache out of it.
 
Here is a Honeywell universal gas valve that would appear to work just as well.

VR8200A2132
- controlled by 24VAC
- takes a common thermocouple
- has an outlet for the pilot light
- 1/2" x 1/2" inlet/ outlet.
- 130,000 BTU

$69 with a 24 inch thermocouple
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00069CR8S/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Honeywell product web page. The installation guide is at the bottom.
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The difference between the 8500 and the 9500 you listed is that the 9500 is capable of lighting its own pilot light. ie Direct Hot Surface Ignition.
The 8500 works with a standing pilot light.

I'd rather manual light mine. Less to go wrong. The pilot assembly for the 9500 is also more expensive.

I'll need a 24VAC transformer and some relays to control it from the computer, but I would have needed that with any valve.

I'm ordering.
 
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I'm also pulling the trigger on this PID controller.

Amazon.com: Dual Digital Display PID Temperature Controller. Great for Sous vide: Industrial & Scientific

$38 each. They have 2 outputs, one of which will directly drive the gas valve.

They take a wide range of temp sensor inputs. Almost any type of temp sensor you can think of.

And they SELF TUNE, easily. I think that would be very handy for my system because the brewing volumes will go up and down, ambient temp will change, etc.

On the mash tun, one could get the pump flowing, set the burner valve for a nice flame and let the PID controller learn for a few minutes and then let it take over.

Plus I don't have to write any software to make this all work.
 
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Thanks !

The last time I brewed was 2006/7, with a bunch of pretty makeshift stuff. Its going to be a shock to have automated burners !

I would have liked to use a gas control valve from a gas fireplace because they have a built in pressure compensated valve to control flame height. But I couldn't find anything affordable.

Re standing pilot. I didn't want an unattended standing pilot, ie no thermocouple. I have no problem with a standing pilot that is managed by a thermocouple.
 





If it's not too late you can save a couple bucks buying directly from the supplier. www.Lightobject.com

Will run you $33.50 plus $4.39 shipping and $2.60 tax if you are in California; still less than the Amazon price with shipping.

It is a minuscule savings but I've found every penny helps when building a brewstand.
 
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