Electric brewery build

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nostalgia

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2008
Messages
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Location
Port Murray, NJ
EDIT: Parts list. I will update this as things change and I have time.

Auberins.com
pid SYL-2352
rtd PT100-L50NPT
contactor CN-PBC402-120V
panel conn RTDCON

Automationdirect.com
63a disconnect SD2-063-RR
handle SD-HRY
shaft SD-S200
black switch GCX3300
red switch GCX3252-120L
30a breaker WMZS2B30
10a breaker WMZS1B10
DIN rail DN-R35S1-2

Radio Shack
120v fan
Panel-mount fuse holders
1A fast-blow fuses
10ga wire (red/black)

Home Depot
6/3 Cable
Plastic housing and fittings
Copper ground lug
Ground bar



I've already gotten started on the heatstick for my build. This thread will document the overall progress on the brewhouse.

First parts in today: 25 gallon stainless drums for the HLT and MLT. I'm going to use my current 15 gallon kettle for boiling for now. At least until funds replenish a bit ;)

These drums are beautiful. MUCH heavier gauge steel than I expected, and the bottoms welded instead of rolled.

drum1.jpg


drum2.jpg


-Joe
 
blackwater: 220v. I've got 40A service there now.

klyph: They far exceeded my expectations :) I got them from another brewer who apparently picked up a load of them from a pharmaceutical company.

-Joe
 
Negative. It's going to be a relatively simple setup (at least at first). I'm going to continue batch sparging since I've had good results and don't (yet) have a desire for the repeatability of an automated HERMS/RIMS/YFAGH* system.

-Joe

*Your favorite acronym goes here.
 
Those barrels are great. I would love to have a few of those. I have been looking at 55 gallon drums, but I might have found kettles on wheels for cheaper.

Great looking equipment. I can't wait to see how it all turns out.
 
Picked up another piece today. Got a 12x12x6 enclosure at Home Depot for $25 today. It's got a rubber seal and came with mounting lugs. I was looking at the same thing on Ebay for $50. Nice!

enclosure.jpg


-Joe
 
Looking good my man, cant wait to smell wort wafting by while playing a little rock band,and enjoying some manskirt brews!
 
Started laying out components. Red is what you'd see on the outside, white is the stuff inside the box.

I've got the PIDs, SSRs, contactors (relays to supply power for the elements), main disconnect switch and 6 small selector switches (HLT element, BK element, pump, HLT stirrer to start. Second pump and MLT stirrer in the future).

I made two layouts. I think I'm leaning towards the one on the right. The box in the picture is 11"x11".

controlpanel1.jpg


controlpanel2.jpg


I still have to figure out a few more wiring details, like distribution blocks and circuit breakers for the 120v items and individual elements so I don't have to run 8gu wire everywhere :)

-Joe
 
I recently picked up a package of electric brewing bits from another HBTer. In the box 'o goodies was a GFCI spa panel. I know many of you use spa panels, so I have a quick question. Here's how the panel is wired:

brewery.jpg


The lines going to the 120v and 240v boxes are up to me to add, everything else is already in the box. The heavy lines are the big, 6gu feed lines. The lighter lines are 12gu.

So here's my question: unless I want to run 6gu lines to my 5500watt heating elements, I need to add some more circuit breakers after the relay because if I used lighter wire it wouldn't be protected from burning up, right? I guess it's ok to jump to the 15A breaker with 12gu wire since the run is so short?

Thanks,

-Joe
 
So here's my question: unless I want to run 6gu lines to my 5500watt heating elements, I need to add some more circuit breakers after the relay because if I used lighter wire it wouldn't be protected from burning up, right? I guess it's ok to jump to the 15A breaker with 12gu wire since the run is so short?
Answered my own question: as long as there is a breaker in the circuit, it is protected. So yes, I do need to add a breaker downstream for the 220 line going to my heating element, but it can be 10gu (assuming a 30A breaker) since the max load on any part of that circuit will be limited by the breaker.

-Joe
 
I just had to post to say the Man Skirt Brewing name is awesome and the utilikilt link is fantastic.

Also interested in watching the build, I'm soaking up as much electric stuff as I can to build mine.

Are you putting said breaker in your control panel on the way out to the element? Thanks.
 
Thanks Mose :) I would like to put the breakers in the spa box to keep them all together, but it doesn't look like there'll be enough space. So they'll most likely end up in the main control box.

-Joe
 
Three months later and I soldered the first joint this morning. You may have seen some of the soldering and dimpling discussion in the soldering stainless steel thread. Now that I'm actually working on my rig, I thought it appropriate to post here.

The first solder is for the whirlpool port on the side of my boil kettle.

So first the setup. I needed to be able to heat the outside of the joint and see the inside at the same time. No easy task in a 25 gallon kettle! Webcam to the rescue.

solder_setup.jpg


solder_laptop.jpg


After careful cleaning, careful fluxing, careful solder application and gentle heating with a MAPP torch, I was rewarded with what I think is an absolutely beautiful joint.

whirlpool_inside-1.jpg


More to come soon! Brewing today, so soldering will have to wait a bit.

-Joe
 
Haha. I like the webcam. Good thinking. Your additions to the soldering thread have me convinced that's what I'll be doing for my keggles at some point when I want to spend the money on them. I just see welding them as too expensive and a pain in the butt to contract out. Weldless fittings just don't jive with me. Soldering seems to be much stronger than we would ever need, cheaper, cleaner and much easier.

Interested to see how this one plays out.
 
And the soldering continues. The boil kettle:

bk_drain.jpg


bk_drainsolder.jpg


And the HLT drain and element bulkhead:

hlt_drain.jpg


hlt_element.jpg


And the leak test. I put 15 gallons of water in there. We'll see how much is left tomorrow XD

hlt_leaktest.jpg


-Joe
 
the dimplemaster 5000
ROFL. Here ya go, with the picture again:

45605K711 Std-wall 304/304l Ss Butt-weld Pipe Fitting, Unthrd, 3/4" X 1/2" Pipe, 1-1/2"l, Reducer, Sch 40
4335T64 Unthrd, Low-pressure 304 Ss Sckt-weld Fitting, 1" Pipe Size, Coupling, 150 Psi
92620A810 Grade 8 Alloy Steel Hex Head Cap Screw, Zinc Yellow Pltd, 5/8"-11 Thrd, 4-1/2"l,fully Thrd

Left to right:
5/8"-11 x 4 1/2" bolt
5/8" washer
3/4" to 1/2" stainless steel butt-weld pipe fitting
1" stainless socket weld low pressure coupling
1/2" washer (drilled to 5/8" with the step bit)
5/8" washer
5/8"-11 nut

dimple_tool.jpg


-Joe
 
New part came today from Ebay. 1" butterfly valve for the bottom dump.

dump_valve.jpg


dump_valve_inside.jpg


I've been trying to decide whether to do 1 or 2 tiers. I like a 2-tier system, but I don't think I have the height for it.

tiers.jpg


Ah well.

-Joe
 
I'm trying to collect all of the ingredients for my control box now. I'm thinking it will be a good idea to have a switch control the 240v to each element separately, that way I can turn them off completely but still have the PID turned on to show temperature.

Has anyone else done this? It seems like something I'd want, but it does add complexity and cost, so I'm vacillating on it. Here's how it would be wired (grounds omitted and only one element shown for clarity):

wiring.jpg

I'm also trying to decide if I want to move the 63A disconnect switch into the spa panel instead, so I'd be running two sets of 10gu wires instead of one set of 6gu ones. But then I wouldn't have a master disconnect right at the control panel.

Thoughts?

-Joe
 
Thanks, that looks very similar actually. The only real differences appear to be that you're switching the power to the PIDs separately and have two, 120v circuits. Thanks for that!

-Joe
 
Oh one other difference: you're powering the PIDs with 120v off those separate circuits, which is what I had originally planned. However, the wiring diagram in the instructions shows taking 240v off the load leads:

pidwiring.jpg

Think it matters?

-Joe
 
Ok. Do you find a need to switch the PIDs off individually? I was just going to use the master disconnect to shut everything down when I'm done. Can the PID be turned into thermometer-only mode, like for when I'm chilling? I was thinking I'd have to switch it to manual mode then turn it all the way down.

-Joe
 
Ok. Do you find a need to switch the PIDs off individually? I was just going to use the master disconnect to shut everything down when I'm done. Can the PID be turned into thermometer-only mode, like for when I'm chilling? I was thinking I'd have to switch it to manual mode then turn it all the way down.

-Joe
No. I drew the diagram the way Tiber_Brew wanted it. The PID will register temperature all on its own as long as the temp probe is connected. BTW, it's my understanding that the PID will not function if a probe is not connected. (I'll have to test that when I get a chance.) For a temp probe, just don't use the controllers output for the elements.
 
Ooooo I thought Tiber_Brew was the name of your system, not a person :eek:

Ok, I think I'm going to go with this. The switches I'm using call for 10A circuit protection (which will still be plenty), so I added two circuits there. I also moved the contactor *before* the SSD so the SSD will be cold with the switch off.

wiring.jpg

-Joe
 
Joe,

I'd do it that way with a small change:

nostalgia-wiring-1.jpg


This way you protect the PID with a small fuse and also leave it powered up when you power down the heating elements. This will allow you to use the PID temp probe during cooling. Also - I changed your PID power scheme to 120V to eliminate 1 fuse and have the PID power available when the element contactor is not delivering power to the element.

Anyway, just some ideas. I really don't mean to jump on your process and for that I sincerely apologize.

Paul
 
Anyway, just some ideas. I really don't mean to jump on your process and for that I sincerely apologize.
No need for apologies; this is exactly the kind of input I was hoping for!

As for the wiring, that was my mistake - I did intend to take power for the PID from before the contactor so it stays on during cooling. Thanks for the tip about the fuse, too.

-Joe
 
Joe,
I started following (suscribed to it) your thread when you posted pictures of your kettle fixtures and the technique you used to attach fittings. I just plain love the method of how you are doing it. I'm a huge advocate of Harris Stay-Brite solder. I have made many setups for friends over the years using it. I got into making custom fittings for electric elements and even bought a hobby mini lathe to accomplish the task.

DSC01565-e.JPG


DSC01571-s.JPG


DSC01585-e.JPG


DSC02376-cr.jpg


DSC02392-s.jpg


Anyway, I'm tipping a brew in salute to you.
If there is anyway that I can help you, just let me know.

Paul (P-J)
 
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