Updated Rubbermaid 10 Gallon MLT w/ copper manifold build

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polo_check

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I know there are some great DIY builds on these 10 gallon rubbermaid coolers. Most I've seen are 3/8" valves. I wanted a 1/2" so it would be the same size as the manifold. Also included is an updated price on the build and the manifold as well. I will list the part# from Lowe's. Lowe's has in-store pickup, all you have to do is punch in the part numbers add them to the cart, pay, and pick up items in 20 min. I know this is a joy for us DIYers since most of my time on this project was spent in the store looking for that specific part and size. Best thing of all it's a FREE service.

Cooler build:

318834.....10 Gallon Rubbermaid Cooler............52.72
79440.......1/2" Ball Valve...............................7.96
29372.......1/2" x 1/2" MIPxBarb Adapter...........3.63
35313.......1/2" x 1-1/2" Brass Pipe Nipple.........3.88
29374.......1/2" x 1/2" FIPxBarb Adapter............2.97
137697......3/4" Stainless Steel Washer(2pk).....2.50
ACE..........3/4" Fender Washer (x 2 @ 1.70)..3.40

Total Cooler Cost.....77.06

Manifold build:

23818......1/2" x 5' Copper Pipe..........................10.47
21610......1/2" 90* Copper Connectors (x4 @ .71)...2.84
21660......1/2" Copper Tee (x5 @ 1.00).................5.00
21790......1/2" x 1/2" FIPTxCup............................2.98
29372......1/2' x 1/2" MIPxBarb.............................3.63

Total Manifold Cost...24.92
Total MLT Cost............101.98

The only modification I had to do to the hardware was I had to enlarge the inside diameter on the 3/4" Stainless Steel washer (part 137697). I did this by putting it in a vise and using a drill and a small grinding stone.

I basically used the directions from this thread: Cheap and Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

If anyone would like more detailed procedures for the manifold let me know and I will get my cut list out and post it.

Pictures coming...
 
As Promised...

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Will that plastic tubing not collapse from the heat and weight of the mash? Just curious. I know I have tried to use similar tubing during wort transfer from mash tun to boil kettle and it wanted to collapse on itself due to the heat softening the tube.

Otherwise, a very nice looking setup. :cheers:
 
This is perfect timing as I want to build a copper manifold for my 10gal MLT. I have a few questions if you can answer, I would appreciate it.

Why did you not do it all copper?
Have you used this for a batch yet?
What did you use to hold it together, lead free solder?
Any chance you can give some more detail on the copper manifold build?

I like your setup but it would be great if you could give some more details on the manifold so others could replicate it.

Thanks!
 
Will that plastic tubing not collapse from the heat and weight of the mash? Just curious. I know I have tried to use similar tubing during wort transfer from mash tun to boil kettle and it wanted to collapse on itself due to the heat softening the tube.

Otherwise, a very nice looking setup. :cheers:

I too would be worried about the plastic tubing. I accidentally put a vinyl tube on my mash tun ball valve instead of the high temp tubing. When it heated up it softened and kinked at the nipple. I had to hold it up the entire drain to get the wort to flow.
 
Mine is similar but oriented the other way. I too was concerned about the tubing mashing closed so I minimized the tubing length. I used an offset (2 45 angles offset so they exit the crossbar in the center to line up with the output hole. The ends sides aren't soldered for cleaning. I have done 2 pumped vorlaufs with no problems at all. It fits super tight so you can bang around all you want with a mash paddle without it moving at all. It actually snaps into place under the exit tube so it won't go anywhere.

Manifold Installed.jpg


Manifold 1.jpg


Manifold Apart.jpg


Mash Tun 2.jpg


Sparge Manifold.jpg
 
nice manifolds guys.

I just like my SS braid better because I can stir around it, not that it really makes a huge difference.
 
I have high temp tubing on order. Just used that to test flow and how much liquid is left in the bottom. Less than 2 cups when you attach a hose to the external barb on the ball valve.
 
Mikespunchlist said:
Mine is similar but oriented the other way. I too was concerned about the tubing mashing closed so I minimized the tubing length. I used an offset (2 45 angles offset so they exit the crossbar in the center to line up with the output hole. The ends sides aren't soldered for cleaning. I have done 2 pumped vorlaufs with no problems at all. It fits super tight so you can bang around all you want with a mash paddle without it moving at all. It actually snaps into place under the exit tube so it won't go anywhere.

Very similar. Almost made it the same way but after reading Palmers How to Brew online it said that you get better efficiency if you have your cross bars parallel to the valve. I know mine is a little different since the flow is going away from the drain then channels to one drain tubing. Havent seen what my efficiency is since I have yet to do my first all grain. What is your mash efficiency? Id like to compare once I get the all grain process down.
 
I too checked with John Palmer before building my manifold. Mine is from the book appendix-E Design option 3 except I put my return in the farthest tube instead of the third cross tube. I do know there have been changes and differences between the book and online versions but I read again that chapter and I don't see where it says the spine orientation should be toward the output. As for efficiency I had a bad day and as far as the numbers I'm not sure about anything much. I had so many problems I'm just glad I had sweet wort and fermentation with krausen that rose high. I measured 1.047 on the just over 6 gallons I collected.
 
Palmer's online version does have a summary that I didn't seein the book. An excerpt concludes:

Here are the summary guidelines for designing efficient manifolds and lauter tuns:
Have the straight line distance to the drain be as short as possible. In other words, orient the pipes longitudinally with respect to the drain.

So polo_check should be correct as mine would be latitudinal and also the farthest it could possibly be from the drain. My next run I plan on dialing in all my temps and calibrating the software to collect accurate data. It will be interesting to see how they differ in efficiency. Last weekend everything that could go wrong plagued me. I mashed in at around 145 degrees 7 degrees low from where I actually wanted....or did I? Thermometer was found to be problematic and low so who knows. And the timer I had set for a 60 minutes boil somehow went dark when checked at about 45 minutes. So my 60 minute boil time was pretty much a guess.
 
These are both good examples of manifolds but I have one question, why does the part that connects to the drain always connect to the part furthest away on the manifold?

I am sure there is a reason but cannot think of what it would be, maybe its is so the line elevates over a longer distance?
 
How long did you make your cross bars? Somehow I calculated the length wrong (geometry use to be my strong point). I calculated an 8.5" square. I measured that my 90* fittings added .75" to the length so cut my crossbars at 7". Its final dimension ended almost 8.75" square, larger than projected but about .5" short all the way around. Still trying to figure out where I miscalculated. Still pleased with the results though.
 
These are both good examples of manifolds but I have one question, why does the part that connects to the drain always connect to the part furthest away on the manifold?

I am sure there is a reason but cannot think of what it would be, maybe its is so the line elevates over a longer distance?

The only reason I have it is because if you have the outflow next to the spigot it will be really hard to put the hose on and get the manifold out of the cooler. You could remedy this by using a different adapter besides the barb adapter used in the build on this thread. Maybe using something like the female end of a water hose that would allow you to attach the manifold more easily. Might try that on my next design.
 
How long did you make your cross bars? Somehow I calculated the length wrong (geometry use to be my strong point). I calculated an 8.5" square. I measured that my 90* fittings added .75" to the length so cut my crossbars at 7". Its final dimension ended almost 8.75" square, larger than projected but about .5" short all the way around. Still trying to figure out where I miscalculated. Still pleased with the results though.

I sort of cheated. I had a lot of copper pipe and fittings laying around from an idea I had to plumb my shop with compressed air a long time ago. I probably bought 8-10ft sticks of copper pipe. I have since used most of it building hummingbird feeder stands for my wife. The rest I just had laying around so I just started cutting and dry fitting. I did have the first 3 to 4 too short so I just cut some longer until they fit tight. I fiddled with them a long time before I ever soldered anything. It actually is so tight it works like a siphon down to the slits if you have a hose on the output to get it below the valve.
 
I just put mine together tonight in a couple hours, still need to cut all the slots but thought it went pretty well. It is a tight fit but I guess that's a good thing.

Dumb question... what are the advantages of soldering?

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Another question... How much more deadspace should be assumed when comparing this to a standard braided stainless steel attachment?

Does anyone know the benefits of soldering a copper manifold? I want mine to be easily taken apart for cleaning and I cannot think of why I would want to solder this if it fits in my MLT snug enough to where its not going to open up.
 
Nothing says you have to solder it. It needs to leak anyhow. For me I thought about not soldering but every time I took it out it was like a puzzle to figure out again. Both ends come off of mine to clean so I thought that was enough. As far as dead space is concerned you can just check that with water after you get the slots cut. You must have a hose or something on your output of the Tun to check if you want it to go any lower than the output tube or it can't siphon. Mine sucks down to the slits in the tubing. I would think that would be lower than the top of a braided screen hose.
 
Nothing says you have to solder it. It needs to leak anyhow. For me I thought about not soldering but every time I took it out it was like a puzzle to figure out again. Both ends come off of mine to clean so I thought that was enough. As far as dead space is concerned you can just check that with water after you get the slots cut. You must have a hose or something on your output of the Tun to check if you want it to go any lower than the output tube or it can't siphon. Mine sucks down to the slits in the tubing. I would think that would be lower than the top of a braided screen hose.

Adding a hose on the output creates a siphon? I don't get how you could get the liquid down further than the drilled hole in the MLT since the water line would be below that hole.
 
I have my slots facing down and have only 2 cups dead space when I use a hose on the outside ball valve, creating a siphoning effect. Without the hose I have about 3/4 gallon left. With steel mesh I would you assume you have about 3/4 gallon deadspace because as the mesh breaks the water you lose the siphoning effect.

I chose to solder just the perpendicular pieces. This keeps all the joints together and wont come apart in the mash tun. Personal preference, Not performance related.
 
Yes, it does create a siphon. The downward force of the liquid in the hose creates a vacuum to suck out every last drop, down to the bottom of the tun (or your highest leak point)
 
I have my slots facing down and have only 2 cups dead space when I use a hose on the outside ball valve, creating a siphoning effect. Without the hose I have about 3/4 gallon left. With steel mesh I would you assume you have about 3/4 gallon deadspace because as the mesh breaks the water you lose the siphoning effect.

I chose to solder just the perpendicular pieces. This keeps all the joints together and wont come apart in the mash tun. Personal preference, Not performance related.

Hmm, I will try that out. I did a test and I had roughly the same amount of liquid in mine with the new manifold and with the braid, about 6 cups (1.5L). That was without the hose on the outside of my MLT from the barb valve.
 
barhoc11 said:
Adding a hose on the output creates a siphon? I don't get how you could get the liquid down further than the drilled hole in the MLT since the water line would be below that hole.

The simple answer? "Because it just does." If you want to learn the science behind it just search for "siphon effect" on google. Prepare to be amazed.
 
barhoc11 said:
I just put mine together tonight in a couple hours, still need to cut all the slots but thought it went pretty well. It is a tight fit but I guess that's a good thing.

Dumb question... what are the advantages of soldering?

Nice. I like the copper pipe all the way to the spigot. Do you just turn your ball valve to thread thread the manifold on or will you just leave that piece unsoldered?
 
Nice. I like the copper pipe all the way to the spigot. Do you just turn your ball valve to thread thread the manifold on or will you just leave that piece unsoldered?

I leave the piece that fits the thread on and I have just enough room to slide in the copper tube when I set the manifold in the MLT. I am not soldering anything in my manifold because it holds together pretty well due to the snug fit and I made all the tubing pieces similar lengths so that when I do take it apart, I don't have to worry about finding the correct parts for each section.

When I add the tubing outside it does create a siphon, I guess I never noticed it before because I always had grain in the cooler when I had the tube on doing runoff's. Thanks for the help.
 
Quick question.
Why copper instead of a cheaper and easier to work with CPVC? I'm trying to find out which way I need to go with mine this week.

Edit: Nevermind, I just found four 8' x 1/2" copper pipes in my basement. Looks like this will be the least expensive way after all. It's nice when things work out!
 
Quick question.
Why copper instead of a cheaper and easier to work with CPVC? I'm trying to find out which way I need to go with mine this week.

Edit: Nevermind, I just found four 8' x 1/2" copper pipes in my basement. Looks like this will be the least expensive way after all. It's nice when things work out!

It was sort of the same thing for me. I had several pipes hanging out in the basement and thought I'd put them to work. Plus the copper just looks high grade and real cool.
 
I just put mine together tonight in a couple hours, still need to cut all the slots but thought it went pretty well. It is a tight fit but I guess that's a good thing.

Dumb question... what are the advantages of soldering?

20120104222310166.jpg

I just built a manifold that looks very similar to yours - what did you use to make a tight seal for the cooler exit/bulkhead fitting? I need to go from 1/2" (manifold) to 3/8" (ball valve). That's the last part of this build that's tripping me up...
 
I just built a manifold that looks very similar to yours - what did you use to make a tight seal for the cooler exit/bulkhead fitting? I need to go from 1/2" (manifold) to 3/8" (ball valve). That's the last part of this build that's tripping me up...

I just used a copper piece with 1/2" female side and a 1/2" normal side that connects to the manifold. I would imagine you could find something similar with a 3/8" female side.

I got all my parts at Lowes if that helps
 
I just used a copper piece with 1/2" female side and a 1/2" normal side that connects to the manifold. I would imagine you could find something similar with a 3/8" female side.

I got all my parts at Lowes if that helps

That part I figured out - what I can't get is a watertight seal around where the manifold exits the cooler. The rubber washer that came with the cooler just isn't working. It looks like yours is out of steel on your build - what did you use?
 
I have used the cheap and easy stainless hose design for a couple of years and decided to upgrade. I tend to fly sparge and was noticing some channeling and also wanted to keep everything 1/2". After looking at the previously mentioned how to brew article and this page I came up with this;

Mash_Manifold.jpg


I liked the idea of having the output closest to spigot but wasnt sure how to do it. I created a odd cross fitting with 1/2" tee and 1/2" street elbow. I drilled a hole in the tee and choped the street elbow to mate with it and soldered it together. It pressed fit tightly to a 5/8" female compression fitting. Here it is installed in the Rubbermaid;

Mash_Manifold_Installed.jpg



Cheers;
BeerCanuck
 
I leave the piece that fits the thread on and I have just enough room to slide in the copper tube when I set the manifold in the MLT. I am not soldering anything in my manifold because it holds together pretty well due to the snug fit and I made all the tubing pieces similar lengths so that when I do take it apart, I don't have to worry about finding the correct parts for each section.

I'm trying to do copper all the way to the spigot as well but am having trouble figuring out how to connect a 1/2" copper tube to the 1/2" brass nipple I have going through the side of my cooler. I'm not having any luck finding the correct parts and the guys at the local Lowes are bigger idiots that me. Can you tell me how you pieced yours together from the copper tube to the spigot?
 
I'm trying to do copper all the way to the spigot as well but am having trouble figuring out how to connect a 1/2" copper tube to the 1/2" brass nipple I have going through the side of my cooler. I'm not having any luck finding the correct parts and the guys at the local Lowes are bigger idiots that me. Can you tell me how you pieced yours together from the copper tube to the spigot?

Why do you have a brass nipple on the inside of your MLT?

Maybe I am misunderstanding you but if you look at the picture of mine below, I pieced it together with:
(4) 90 degree
(5) T's
(1) 45 degree
(1) female threaded piece on one end to fit onto my 1/2" male bulkhead

Let me know if you need more details and I can get those to you.

20120104222310166.jpg
 
Haha, you are understanding me ok. I'm just that bad at plumbing.. My problem is I don't know how to make the transition from the copper tubing to the ball valve. I got the brass nipple idea from the OP (sorry for the mild thread jacking!) but now that i look back I don't see it on his build. I see you have the female on the end of your manifold which is something I could definitly do (lowes part # 22627??), but what are you using for the male bulkhead to get outside the cooler to the ball valve? That is my missing link right now. I'm a terrible plumber so thank you for all your help!!

Edit: a little more research helped me figure it out. I'm just missing that female adapter. I'll hit the hardware store first thing in the morning.
 
Just completed my first batch with this manifold which is my first all-grain batch period. I got 79% mash efficiency.
 
Why do you have a brass nipple on the inside of your MLT?

Maybe I am misunderstanding you but if you look at the picture of mine below, I pieced it together with:
(4) 90 degree
(5) T's
(1) 45 degree
(1) female threaded piece on one end to fit onto my 1/2" male bulkhead

Let me know if you need more details and I can get those to you.

20120104222310166.jpg


Where did you find the bulkhead? It would be great if you could post more info on that part of the build.
 
Wingy said:
Where did you find the bulkhead? It would be great if you could post more info on that part of the build.

I was able to complete mine. The "bulkhead" I have is the 1/2" x 1.5" brass pipe nipple that goes through the side of the cooler to the 1/2"ball valve. A #15 o-ring fits perfectly on the nipple.
 
I took apart my bulkhead and notated the various components;

bulkhead_notated.JPG


Cheers;
BeerCanuck

Thanks! The local Home Depot is pretty terrible, so I had to order them. Hopefully this is the last bit of stuff I need... then it's off to make beer!
 
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