Wiring Neutral Kal Clone

I am almost finished the never ending 50 AMP electric brewery project. In finishing the wiring I was a little confused as to how to wire the neutral.

Do I take the white wire from the 50 AMP receptacle and bring that to the neutral bus bar or do I bring it to my two thirty amp receptacles then to where after that.

This forum is awesome. I had posted a previous question about wiring my 50 AMP outlet and the answer made it clear that my 8 gauge wire needed to be replaced. It cost 100 dollars to replace it but the absolute right guidance.

Thanks again for the assistance. Once done I will post pictures of the latest clone.

Not sure I understand the question. The neutral wire is only needed for those portions of your panel that are running 120v. So, if you're running 120v coils on your contactors, or you have receptacles for pumps to plug into, or your PIDs need 120v - thing like that need the neutral. So yes, terminate your supply to a neutral terminal block or buss bar, and run your neutral runs from there to whatever you need to get 120v to.
-Kevin

I had my neutral (actually all of the lines) come in from the main receptacle then immediately to bus bars. From the bar the powers, ground and neutral all branch off to where they are needed.

Thanks for the insight, we correctly wired the neutral but somehow damaged the 50 AMP contactor. The coil connection on the contactor appears to be very fragile and the thin wire connecting the terminal to the coil separated. I might be buying another contactor unless I can solder it back together. Duh

Do you have a pic? My contactors don't have any exposed wiring that is part of the contactor... I'd be curious to see yours.

In the photo you will notice the connection in the middle (white part) that my switch wires would be connected too, somehow that was twisted when we placed it in the control panel. When that happened it severed the connection between those two prongs and the copper coil.

Is there a better version of a contactor available?

This is not my exact contactor, but it looks exactly like it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Allen-Bradley-100-C43C10-Ser-A-3-Main-Poles-1NO-Aux-Cont-Non-Reversing-Contactor-/290751221848?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b21f9058

I have 2 of these left, I will let them go for $35ea plus shipping. Far superior contactor, no exposed wiring.

Since it's fix it or toss it I'd try taking it apart and seeing if you can tease a turn off the coil bobbin for resoldering to the terminal. With my luck the wire that broke would be the one from the inside of the bobbin and this wouldn't be doable but you might be luckier.

That's exactly what we did. We tried resoldering it with no success (that is thin wire) and then replaced the coil from a 40 AMP contractor which worked perfectly. I assumed that was ok because both contractors were 120 v.

Gee, didn't know those guys are so specialized!

Sorry, sometimes I can't help myself.

Seriously, glad to hear it worked out. Assuming the steel on the two (source unit and the unit you put it on) are about the same, and they ought to be as it fit, the current draws should be about the same or more to the point the resistance to reactance ratio should be about the same but you might want to check the coil temperature over time just to be sure its not getting too hot.