Extra $$ SSR worth it?

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ShakerD

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Toasted my cheap ebay 40a SSR today. And yes it stuck open when it quit which made me thankful for the element power button. (Thanks again PJ for the diagram)

So ebay has cheapy SSR's for around $5 and more expensive brands up to $15.

Should I buy 3 cheap ones or 1 more expensive. The last cheapy one started to stick only after 2 batches and is now toast 3 more batches later.
 
Just for future reference, what was the cheap eBay brand that failed? It seems like there are plenty or cheap eBay ones that don't fail, but others have more problems. So far I have not had any problems with my eBay "kodak" 40amp ssr
 
Just for future reference, what was the cheap eBay brand that failed? It seems like there are plenty or cheap eBay ones that don't fail, but others have more problems. So far I have not had any problems with my eBay "kodak" 40amp ssr

For reference, Crydom is the Cadillac. Why? I dunno. But I do electronics, and when I think of SSRs (of any size) it's Crydom.
 
JRems said:
Just for future reference, what was the cheap eBay brand that failed? It seems like there are plenty or cheap eBay ones that don't fail, but others have more problems. So far I have not had any problems with my eBay "kodak" 40amp ssr

I had 2 kodak that failed.
 
I think most people toast ssr because of improper heatsinking whether it be undersized, incorrect orientation, lack of a heatsink compound, lack of airflow. I would spend my money on these things before upgrading to a specific brand of relay.
 
psubrewer said:
I think most people toast ssr because of improper heatsinking whether it be undersized, incorrect orientation, lack of a heatsink compound, lack of airflow. I would spend my money on these things before upgrading to a specific brand of relay.

Maybe but I don't think that was my case. I have a heat sink attached, thermal grease and fan blowing air right at the heat sink. I personally think it was the $5 ssr.
 
The failure rate of SSR relays reported on this board is several orders of magnitude above what would be acceptable in an industrial application ASSUMING the component is not subject to electrical or thermal overstress.

Perhaps you received counterfeit relays and thats a whole other issue. If you're worried about this, your best bet would be to buy from a reputable component supplier (ie. not eBay).

For what its worth, I'm using a cheap-o eBay 40A SSR and its working fine for me with a 5500W ULWD element.
 
How many amps was the Op pulling through the 40A relay? Minimal, maximal or some percentage in between? Reason I ask is I have a few of the Fotek cheapies and wonder if they are just under rated. Like really a 25 A when Labeled as a 40A or something. Prior to failure what was the symptoms that led you to a faulty SSR? Just wonderin.....
Wheelchair Bob
 
How many amps was the Op pulling through the 40A relay? Minimal, maximal or some percentage in between? Reason I ask is I have a few of the Fotek cheapies and wonder if they are just under rated. Like really a 25 A when Labeled as a 40A or something. Prior to failure what was the symptoms that led you to a faulty SSR? Just wonderin.....
Wheelchair Bob

It is a Fotek 40a

I have one 5500w ULWD element at 220v.

On a side note I noticed a faint plastic burning smell a couple of brews ago. I inspected the whole control box and couldn't find a chard wire. It must have been the SSR. I think I am going to cut it apart and see what's inside.
 
The top center panels come off easily. They are a snapped on item only. I would be interested in the rest of the parameters so I dont have an issue similar to yours. Thanks for the info so far.
Wheelchair Bob
 
The last cheapy one started to stick only after 2 batches and is now toast 3 more batches later.

That comment caught my attention. The only other time I heard someone talk about an SSR sometimes working and sometimes not working was when they were using a DC model for AC application. I don't remember who it was, but their SSR would just act all sorts of wonky and eventually died.
 
That comment caught my attention. The only other time I heard someone talk about an SSR sometimes working and sometimes not working was when they were using a DC model for AC application. I don't remember who it was, but their SSR would just act all sorts of wonky and eventually died.

Hahahaha now I am questioning everything I have done. Maybe I missed something and you can double check for me.

I have the Auberins PID Model: SYL-2352
It says 12V DC control

I used this diagram from P-J
Auberin-wiring1-a4-5500w-BIAB-30d6.jpg


photo (3).jpg
 
Yeah, I run the cheap $6 Fotek brand SSRs, and I cannot let the duty cycle be 100% for very long or it "sticks" closed even when commanded to open. I have to shut off power completely for a second or two. If I keep the duty cycle in the 85-90% range, they work fine, no problem. So, I just limit my PID output to 85% and deal with it for now. It still heats up as fast as I need it. When they fail I will replace with a better quality SSR.
 
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