Ready to bottle but beer has a very sweet smell

Hello everyone. I am new and this is my first beer (oktoberfest)

The beer sat in the first fermenter for 5 days and the second fermenter (carboy) for 7 days but it has a very sweet smell to it. I also don't think that any fermentation has taken place in the second fermenter.

The color is cloudy amber color and has some of the malt grain seed casings floating on top.

Any suggestions. Did I screw something up?

Thanks for your help..

Charlie

physast said:

Hello everyone. I am new and this is my first beer (oktoberfest)

The beer sat in the first fermenter for 5 days and the second fermenter (carboy) for 7 days but it has a very sweet smell to it. I also don't think that any fermentation has taken place in the second fermenter.

The color is cloudy amber color and has some of the malt grain seed casings floating on top.

Any suggestions. Did I screw something up?

Thanks for your help..

Charlie

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Remember to pitch the yeast ? Just kidding, what was the OG and what is the current reading.

yep, need to know starting and current gravity.
5 days probably wasn't long enough in primary.

secondary isn't really a 'fermentation'...rather it gives the yeast time to sediment (flocculate) so the beer is more clear.

looking up Oktoberfest beers, it sounds like it should have a malty sweetness, but a dry finish, with no hop aroma.
beer IS sweet. hops are bitter. hops balance the sweetness of the malt sugar that does not ferment.

and really, the different ratios of sweetness to bitterness is a prime characteristic that defines one beer style from another.

Hi. Yeah it bubbled pretty good for two days and died out to nothing.

The original OG was 1.044 and right now is 1.019.

off the topic but what is your favorite beer kit.. ie.. true beer ect...

Yea, you should have left it in the primary until it hit around 1.013....It should make for a good session beer though. I would leave it in the secondary for another couple weeks, maybe even repitch. Your OG is very low and your FG is very high. What was your original boil volume, length of boil and boil temperature?

Would re pitching hurt the beer? How would you go about doing this? Just add activated yeast to the brew?

Length of boil was approximately 40 minutes with a almost 2 gal wart mixture. I steeped grains and added hops.

re pitching sounds interesting and would like to learn how to do this in case of situations like this.

what yeast did you use? Fermentation temps?

physast said:

Would re pitching hurt the beer? How would you go about doing this? Just add activated yeast to the brew?

Length of boil was approximately 40 minutes with a almost 2 gal wart mixture. I steeped grains and added hops.

re pitching sounds interesting and would like to learn how to do this in case of situations like this.

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Repitching won't hurt your beer as your just increasing the number of yeasties that will eat on the remaining fermentables and will fall out after fermentation is completed. Usually you want to boil for at least 60 minutes (depending on the recipe) at 212dF. Sounds like your end of boil volume was possibly a bit high. Your maximum ABV is probably about 4.33% and should get pretty close as long as your extract is of decent quality (doesn't contain high quantities of unfermentables). Your fermentation temps should stay about 63-68 degrees. A couple degrees lower and your yeast may go dormant.

fermentation temps have been 78dF I can't figure out how to get any lower without enormous electricity bills to keep the apartment lower. I used an ale yeast that came with the True Brew Oktoberfest kit.

What type of yeast should I use to re-pitch?

I think I boiled approximately a total of 60 minutes including the time to biol the hops in. I didn't strain the hops afterwards and that went into the first fermenting bucket.

I am still learning and really enjoy the hobby! I can't wait to get better and start making my own recipes although I know this is far from now...

Do NOTHING except RDWHAHB! You have given your beer the absolute minimum amount of time to finish. Take another sample in three days. If it hasn't changed, consider bottling. I bet it goes a little lower, even though it's off the primary yeast cake.

Right now your only at 55% Attenuation, which seems pretty low. You might try and get some US-05 yeast to pitch in there, although it is possible it is still fermenting. Next time keep it in the primary for at least 10 days. AS far as temps go I do this, it keeps it at around 65. Just add a few frozen plastic jugs every day.

Yeah I am trying to relax, I just want to get as much info as possible and I heard this was the place to be for the INFO!!

So re pitching the yeast would not be a good idea?

I like the water Idea to keep the temps down!

Sometimes I think the kits give the wrong directions. The instructions that came with kit said to keep in the primary for 5 days if the bubbling stops.

physast said:

So re pitching the yeast would not be a good idea?

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Its not a bad idea but may not be needed as it should continue to ferment at least a little bit. If you do choose to repitch I wouldn't waste money on liquid yeast. I would take a reading every day for three days and if it doesn't budge then consider repitching or accepting it as low ABV session beer (nothing wrong with these). I would definitely lower your temperature however as 78 degrees may produce fusel alcohol (more of a concern if it exceeds 80 degrees)

physast said:

So re pitching the yeast would not be a good idea?

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Re-pitching without waiting a bit is a waste of your time and money. If after a few days you are not satisfied, consider re-pitching with a clean dry yeast like Nottingham.

I will take a reading tomorrow and Wednesday and see what the reading is and go from there. Here is the situation. I have to go out of town for the next two weeks leaving Thursday morning for a job interview I found out about yesterday.

so here are my choices...

1. If the gravity does not change by Thursday morning re pitch adding the yeast (still not to sure on the procedures here, but I am guessing the same as adding before ie.. add yeast to warm water let it start to ferment and the add it to the wart)

2. Do nothing and see what has happened in two weeks when I return and bottle then.

3. Bottle it Wednesday night and have a beer ready when I get home in two weeks.

What do you think? Thanks for all the help guys! This is a great forum.

physast said:

3. Bottle it Wednesday night and have a beer ready when I get home in two weeks.

What do you think? Thanks for all the help guys! This is a great forum.

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If you bottle it now with your gravity sitting where it is now you run a very high risk of bottle bombs. Personally I would much rather repitch the yeast and let it sit for two weeks than to come home and fine my beer exploded all over my ceiling and floors. And two weeks is not long enough for conditioning. Let it sit for 3-4 weeks and you'll be much happier with your beer. Patience is key when brewing!

physast said:

I will take a reading tomorrow and Wednesday and see what the reading is and go from there. Here is the situation. I have to go out of town for the next two weeks leaving Thursday morning for a job interview I found out about yesterday.

so here are my choices...

1. If the gravity does not change by Thursday morning re pitch adding the yeast (still not to sure on the procedures here, but I am guessing the same as adding before ie.. add yeast to warm water let it start to ferment and the add it to the wart)

2. Do nothing and see what has happened in two weeks when I return and bottle then.

3. Bottle it Wednesday night and have a beer ready when I get home in two weeks.

What do you think? Thanks for all the help guys! This is a great forum.

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You're rushing your beer. I know it's hard to be patient with your first batch, but it'll get easier as you brew more.
Rule of thumb is 1 week in primary and 2 in secondary.
Once you bottle I would say it's a minimum of three weeks in the bottle before you should think about drinking your beer. I've had some batches that were not high gravity or particularly 'complex' that were drinkable early, but weren't really good until several months in bottles.
So you gotta ask yourself, do you want to drink fast beer, or do you want to drink really good beer?

Since it's hard to wait, go ahead and drink one after two weeks. Drink it slowly, enjoy it, savor it. Then wait, and drink another one a week later. See if you notice a difference. Keep spacing them out until you no longer can tell a difference, then have at them! And of course make sure you have another batch (or two!) going during this process...

I helped myself get through the waiting process by buying commercial brews I've never had before to help plan my next batches.

I agree with Wolf. You are rushing your beer. Just leave it in the fermenter while you are gone and bottle it when you get home.

I also would not repitch any new yeast. Repitching is warranted sometimes, but mostly I think this is a knee-jerk reaction to a mostly non-problem.

This is your first batch. Relax, and treat it as a learning experience. Your beer will turn out great.

physast said:

fermentation temps have been 78dF I can't figure out how to get any lower without enormous electricity bills to keep the apartment lower.

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I would have the same problem with my brew. I like to keep the electric bill low and usually have my house temp around 76-78. As a result, I went with the tried and true trick of using a rubbermaid container or tray and tossing in a few trays of ice cubes each day. With this method I have easily kept my brews at 68 degrees and could go lower if I added more ice.

Here is a picture to illustrate what it looks like.



Fermentation temperatures are very important to all beers. I hope this helps you control the temp a bit and get a product you'll be super satisfied with in the end.

Cheers!

If after three days I see no drop in the gravity and decide to add yeast, how much should I add?

Also I have it in a 5 gal carboy right now and since I will not be around to check on it should I do a blow off instead of a airlock?

I am still up in the air on letting it set while I am gone or adding some yeast and letting it ferment the rest of the sugar away if any.

physast said:

If after three days I see no drop in the gravity and decide to add yeast, how much should I add?

Also I have it in a 5 gal carboy right now and since I will not be around to check on it should I do a blow off instead of a airlock?

I am still up in the air on letting it set while I am gone or adding some yeast and letting it ferment the rest of the sugar away if any.

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Add the whole packet.

Don't worry about a blow off tube...you don't have enough fermentables for a violent fermentation.

If you've got the $2.50 worth of yeast lying around, I'd pitch it and move on. You'll certainly do a lot more than $2.50 worth of worrying about it if you don't just pitch the yeast.

You'll certainly do a lot more than $2.50 worth of worrying about it if you don't just pitch the yeast.

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True and it can't hurt anything and might even push out some oxygen that I might have let in during the transfer.

UPDATE: I notice today that some head is showing up on top of the wart so I guess it is still fermenting. I might not add the yeast after all. Today it was at 1.016 from 1.019 a few days ago.

I added it anyway because that's just how I am. I will let you know how it turns out.

Thanks for all the help!!

Charlie

I am making an Oktoberfest, as well, for my second batch. The first few days in primary it was bubbling quite actively, but that died down to the point that I was wondering if I had done something wrong (first batch was more active).

I used my hydrometer for a reading and saw that while it had dropped significantly it was nowhere near its intend final gravity. I’m just going to keep it in the primary for four or five more days and then take another reading.

I’m a patient man and I’m seeing that that is important to brewing as well. From a fellow new-brewer just don’t get ahead of yourself, let the beer do its thing, and you’ll probably be fine (I say with *so* much experience!).

And since we’re both making the same thing on about the same timetable, I’ll look forward to your update.

My amber ale did the same thing in primary. It stopped activity after like 2 days. Then i waited 7 days and went to secondary. The next day it was up and bubbling again. Must of just awakened the yeast.

Well I am back from my trip and the gravity reading is 1.014.

This means original was 1.044 and final is 1.014 and I believe the formula is..

1.044-1.014 X 131 = 3.93% ABV (let me know if I am wrong..

This is still low but I think it's done fermenting. It had been in the secondary for almost 2 weeks and about 4 days in the primary.

Thanks for the suggestions and help..

The smell is great and it taste good too.. Flat but good.. Can't wait till after the bottle conditioning for carbonation.

Keep us posted on the results. I always brew 4% beers cuz I love drinking beer more than I love getting drunk...and I love getting drunk.

ive had this problem as well...same exact kit same exact problem. I even have an ac constantly goin. when it all stopped for a few days it was suggested to take out the ac. temp is now at 75-78 ish i know a little high but it started fermentiong again...wtf?! 1.044 to 1.020 in a week, and its pretty much stuck around 1.018. probubley goin into secondary within the next few days. it tastes alright not the greatest. not too happy about the alcohol percentage but it is my first brew.

True Brew Oktoberfest:

Ok it's been some time now and I had my first brew. The brew has a really nice light hoppy smell to it. The color is light amber and the carbonation seems to be good.

The taste is fairly good, with maybe a slight overload of floral towards the end of the sip (gulp).

This floral gives almost a flat type taste to it, but I am too new to be able to describe it perfectly.

Has anyone else done this brew before?? One thing I didn't do is strain the hops after the boil. They stayed in the fermenter the whole time. Also the bad of grain that cam with it was not crushed. I crushed it before I steeped the grains.

It's not bad, but not the best I have had either. I need to go get a commercial Oktoberfest and compare!

physast said:

True Brew Oktoberfest:

Ok it's been some time now and I had my first brew. The brew has a really nice light hoppy smell to it. The color is light amber and the carbonation seems to be good.

The taste is fairly good, with maybe a slight overload of floral towards the end of the sip (gulp).

This floral gives almost a flat type taste to it, but I am too new to be able to describe it perfectly.

Has anyone else done this brew before?? One thing I didn't do is strain the hops after the boil. They stayed in the fermenter the whole time. Also the bad of grain that cam with it was not crushed. I crushed it before I steeped the grains.

It's not bad, but not the best I have had either. I need to go get a commercial Oktoberfest and compare!

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Being an Octoberfest it really should have more of a malty aroma and flavor then bitter or floral. Keeping the hops in the fermenter isn't the problem. What did the recipe use for hop additions and boil times? Did you follow the hop scheduling to a "T"? Honestly if it tastes ok I would be happy with that but I wouldn't brew this again based off of your OG and the other person above that brewed this with the same results. Sounds like this extract kit is put together incorrectly and possibly used cheap ingredients as both of your OGs and FGs are off. I would say the floral taste you are getting is the lack of maltiness to correctly balance this beer style.