First Time Brewing tomorrow - last minute questions

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Verio

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1. I have a Wyeast Smack Pack. I fly home tomorrow and plan on brewing tomorrow night. Should the wife smack the pack today?

2. I live in San Antonio with very hard water, is it advisable to go get bottled water to brew with? I'm brewing a Belgian White Ale.

3. Does all water need to be boiled that will be used?

4. I'm using no rinse sanitizer. Does no rinse really mean no rinse? This is sanitizer from AHS.

5. I'm still debating to this minute about making a half batch. How long can bottles undisturbed last for? If I make 50 bottles of beer, I don't want them going back in a few months. If they're stored in a cool dark place, they should last a year, right?

6. Any last minute advice? I don't have a Home Brew yet, so I can't relax!!
 
1- I have never used a smack pack BUT I would say yes

2- I have extremely hard water and use it, but if you think it will affect the taste then yes I would get bottled water

3- If you use bottled I would say no

4-yes, no rinse means no rinse. and if it is star san, the foam is nothing to worry about.

5- Make a whole batch... your friends will want to try some and you will kick yourself for running out of beer. and yes it will last a while.

6- lay everything out and have it all ready to go BEFORE you start the brewing.
 
1. NO NO NO... you only need to smack it three hours ahead of time. And technically you don't have to smack it at all. It's just a good idea to prove that you have viable yeast. A whole day before would be too early and would adversely affect your yeast.

2. Bottled water is a pretty safe bet, but you may be able to get away with tap water. I'd probably end up doing tap water because I'm cheap, but bottled water is probably more likely to give you good beer.

3. Some people would say yes, but I always used unboiled tap water to top off my partial boils with no problems.

4. yes. no rinsing required.

5. They'd probably last a year, but I do half batches all the time because I enjoy being able to brew more often and have more different styles on hand.

6. Don't freak out when you make that first mistake. I consistently make mistakes every batch and consistently end up with good beer.
 
Thanks a lot. This is good information!!

I'll smack it when I get home while I'm prepping everything. I figure it will be ready by the time I figure out what the hell I'm doing.
 
Thanks a lot. This is good information!!

I'll smack it when I get home while I'm prepping everything. I figure it will be ready by the time I figure out what the hell I'm doing.

That's what I do. My first time I kept checking it during the slower parts of brewing to see if it was swelling. I tried to convince myself that it was a little bigger each time. Then the boil and hop additions came along and I didn't really look at it that much and next time I looked it was huge.
 
1. I'd wait on smacking too.

2. I'd mix 50-50 tap and distilled for a beer that light. However, if you are brewing with extract, I'd make that all distilled (The extract still has the minerals from the mashing process that the extract company already did for you. No reason to double up on the minerals!)

3. I would boil anything that is added to the wort AFTER you have boiled it. Any top-off water, etc. Now, the odds are you will be fine. MANY people simply pour tap water in and have no problems. I have bought distilled water for topping off when I brewed extract. Boiling is a PITA IMO, but it's up to you if you want to risk getting an infection from the local water source.

4. No rise. no rinse....

5. It's up to you. Brewing half batches AG is as much work or more IMO. For extract, it can help and you can brew more often without worrying about having too much beer. I'd never want to do it again except maybe if I were brewing partigyle and wanted a smaller amount of bigger beer for first runnings.

6. RDWHAGCB! (Good Craft Beer!)
 
1. Before I started making starters, there were a couple of times where my packs got smacked two or three days prior to brewing (when something would come up last-minute that cause me to delay), and never had an issue with fermentation.

2. Bottled spring water is always a pretty safe bet. I used it on and off to see if there was any difference between it and my local water. Luckily for me the difference is faint...faint enough to where I actually question if it's just my imagination. For reference though, my water isn't particularly hard, anyhow.

3. Sorry, can't answer this accurately, since I go with full-boils for brewing, rather than partial. So all my water is boiled by default.

4. +1 on the "no rinse is no rinse" front.

5. After a year they shouldn't go "bad", necessarily. However, their flavors and complexity my change. Sometimes for the better, sometimes for the not so good (meaning that a hoppier beer would find the bitterness to lessen somewhat).

I've got a small handful of various batches that are approaching their 1 year anniversary and I'm actually excited to taste them, as well as excited that I was able to hold out this long. From person experience though, I've had a number of beers that I let condition for 6 months in bottles, that tasted amazing. Better than their siblings tasted right after they "carb up" period.
 
2. I live in San Antonio with very hard water, is it advisable to go get bottled water to brew with? I'm brewing a Belgian White Ale.

I have a friend in San Antonio who brewed some ale and he used tap water. He was very disappointed in how it turned out (off flavors were pronouced). Use bottled water. I went to the local huge supermarket and bought spring water for .88/gal
 
I have a friend in San Antonio who brewed some ale and he used tap water. He was very disappointed in how it turned out (off flavors were pronouced). Use bottled water. I went to the local huge supermarket and bought spring water for .88/gal

Yeah, we don't have a softener in the house, and I can definitely taste the hard water. It's nasty.
 
Buying water gets expensive. Consider getting a "Whole House Filtration" unit from Lowes. You may also need some minerals to "soften" your water, but this would be a good start to cleaner and cheaper water. While I'm still trying to nail down my water parameters, this has been a nice addition to my setup, and makes it simple to filter the water right through your hose or faucet. Here is mine:
IMG_4471.jpg

I got a shut-off and a couple Quick Disconnects so I can use my hose, and just hook it right up to either the filter or spray nozzle, or just use the shut-off fitting to have the hose handy for anything else, without having to run over and turn it off or on. Might be a little overkill for you, since I'm assuming your brewing extract in your kitchen, but the having some kind of filter in general helps save time and money.

I'd make the whole batch also, and not make any changes in ingredients(assuming this is a kit). I grew out of my 5g batches pretty quick. 2 cases of beer just isn't really a LOT, when you have friends/family over ;) It doesn't take much less time to do a smaller batch, so save your next brewday for ANOTHER 5g batch...to replace the one that you're about to brew and drink before you know it!!

As far as general advice, definitely get everything laid out BEFORE you start brewing, from hop additions, to your yeast, sanitizer, funnel, hydrometer, air-lock/stopper, water etc. BE CAREFUL if you have a glass carboy, they get heavy and slippery, especially when full. Handle with care.

Also your first few times you're going to be running around like a chicken with your head cut off, I don't think there is any getting around this, but being well-prepared will help you relax a little.

If you are using beersmith or some kind of brewing software, make sure you have your computer handy if you need to make any adjustments, or use any conversion/calculator tools. It also really helps to have your recipe printed off, or written down, along with a workflow of everything that you are going to do.

Lastly, TAKE THOROUGH NOTES!! It's hard when you're beginning to know what you NEED to write down, so just write EVERYTHING! It will really help to pinpoint parts of your process that you may have made a mistake or need to improve next time. If you don't have any reference to the details, you'll never know why "my first batch tasted a little off"...its hard enough to pin down off flavors when you DO write things down, but will be really good for future reference regardless. Write down how you managed your yeast, what the temp was when you pitched it, of course what KIND of yeast it was, etc. If you bought a kit, make sure you write down what ingredients were included in the kit, including all of the specialty grains, such as Crystal/Caramel Malt L#s(if its Crystal 20(C-20), Crystal 80, or whatever), what kind of extract was included and how much in each can.

MAKE SURE YOU MEASURE YOUR GRAVITY BEFORE YOU PITCH YOUR YEAST(as well as your temperature-make sure you've reached proper pitching temp), SO WHEN YOU GO TO MEASURE YOUR FINAL GRAVITY IN A FEW WEEKS(to assure of complete conversion and know when its time to bottle), YOU WILL KNOW EXACTLY HOW MUCH SUGARS WERE CONVERTED, AND MORE IMPORTANTLY, HOW MUCH ALCOHOL IS IN YOUR BREW :) Most hydrometers are accurate at 60degrees, and come with a chart to adjust the OG depending on the temp. Usually if you're at 70degrees, you'll need to add 1 point to your gravity to be exact(1.052@70 degrees would actually be 1.053@60 degrees). Not a huge concern, but if you're at 80 degrees, you might think you didn't hit your gravity, when in all reality, you'd need to add 3 points because of the temp difference(based on your hydrometer).

On a side note, at some point it really helps to measure your equipment(carboy/kettles/etc). This way you know exactly what your beginning/end volume is. I bought a graduated cylinder, and measured out exactly 1/2g and 1g in a larger container(pitcher/pet food container), marked it at those points, and used that to measure out each gallon mark in my equipment(I haven't done my carboys yet, but my keggles and other pots are done). Then you can create a measuring stick to see how much volume is in your kettle. I got mine from a craft store. Was just a blank stick, kind of like a yard stick, that I marked up for each vessel and named them. You can also get a "sight-glass" from Bobby M, but you might want to wait until you've expanded your equipment a bit more for that.

Sorry for the endless rambling, but hopefully you got some good info out of it(and don't feel overwhelmed). It's really a pretty fool-proof process, and you'd be hard pressed to make something that isn't drinkable at minimum. Considering you don't have any homebrew yet...before you get started, grab a 6-er of your favorite microbrew from the store and ENJOY YOUR BREWDAY!

Welcome to the hobby/obsession! :mug:
 
I just smacked one three days before I brewed, and all is well. The lag was less than 8 hours before I had noticeable fermentation and is still bubbling well going on day four.
 
1. I have a Wyeast Smack Pack. I fly home tomorrow and plan on brewing tomorrow night. Should the wife smack the pack today?

2. I live in San Antonio with very hard water, is it advisable to go get bottled water to brew with? I'm brewing a Belgian White Ale.

3. Does all water need to be boiled that will be used?

4. I'm using no rinse sanitizer. Does no rinse really mean no rinse? This is sanitizer from AHS.

5. I'm still debating to this minute about making a half batch. How long can bottles undisturbed last for? If I make 50 bottles of beer, I don't want them going back in a few months. If they're stored in a cool dark place, they should last a year, right?

6. Any last minute advice? I don't have a Home Brew yet, so I can't relax!!

i actually used a Wyeast smack pack 2 weeks ago for my official 3rd beer. i talked to someone from northern brewer and they told me that the purpose of smacking the yeast and allowing it to swell it just so you know that he yeast is healthy. what i did (which worked out fine) is i took it out of the fridge, smacked it and shook it (which it says to do) then just let it sit during the boiling process. it swelled up a tad, enough to know that the yeast was alive and kicking.

have fun!
 
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