Heating Wart After Protein Rest

I am new to the all-grain brewing process and I use a home made mash tun I created out of a 10 gallon cooler. I am currently trying to perfect my own recipe for an Oatmeal Cinnamon Stout.

The question I have is that if I remove my wart from the tun after the protein rest and add it to my strike water to heat back up to my strike temperature, will that effect the mash?

I know that if I get the grains in the mash too hot it can release tanans (probably spelt that wrong) but I don't believe that should be the issue with the post protein rest wart.

The reason I am asking this, is because during my first batch I was having issues raising my mash temperature to the level I wanted for sacrination after the protein rest.

Any information would be helpful.

Not too sure what method you're using. If you are using infusion mashing then you never move the grist from the mash tun. Instead you progressively add water in steps to increase the mash temperature. Obviously you are severely limited in your temp range due to the change in the water/grist ratio and the size of your tun.

If you a decotion mashing and removing your grist to heat up before adding back to your mash. Then you typically do the sacc rest during the heating and ensure that you leave most the liquid behind as that's where the enzymes are. No you won't get any tannins by heating the grist. Only get that with a high pH.

Hope that makes some sense.


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I am using the infusion mash method. The situation I ran into was after the protein rest I had to repeatedly add water for the mash strike, past the amount that I initially wanted to use but not past my total water usage for the recipe, in order to increase the temperature. And I was still a few degrees short, 5 or 6, of where I wanted to be.

So I figured if I remove some of the water from the grist after the protein rest stage and added it to the hot water, so lets say I have 4 gallons of wart and water mixed instead of just straight water, and raise the temperature to where I wanted it shouldn't effect the flavor too much. I am getting to this because you can add close to boiling water to the grist to raise the temperature and I am going to reheat the wart anyway, as long as I am not overheating the grist. Is this a misconception?

Personally ithink you should keep your nasty warts out of the brewing process

I need some clarification, are you talking about heating the wort, then adding it back to the tun?

Yes that is exactly what I am referring to.

And I apologize again for spelling mistakes (elsphinc).

Then I don't see why that wouldn't work. Though let me link Palmer's equations for infusion temperatures, in case you haven't seen them:

http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter16-3.html

I have seen that and there are also several good online tools

http://www.brew365.com/mash_sparge_water_calculator.php

http://www.brewersfriend.com/mash/

Thank you for the responses

Just note I think there's some confusion with you use of "strike water" to me that is the water temp prior to mash in that's a little higher in temp to account for losses due to the tun and cold grist.

Well that's my definition.

I think you mean the target temp for your sacc conversion.

I've achieved multi step infusion mashes with a protein, B and A amylase just by adding boiling water to the mash. Though I did have to run a fairly thick mash at the start and thin mash during Lautering, which was a bonus.


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