Grumpybumpy
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I'm working on a recipe for an IIPA (Yooper's Ruination Clone modification) and I'd like to keep the hop utilization to a maximum. My last IPA is lacking in the bitter department. Here is Yoopers recipe with my modification to make it a partial mash:
(originally started with 14# pale malt, Original Gravity: 1.077)
8 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain
4 lbs Light DME (late addition)
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 6.67 %
1.75 oz Magnum [14.00 %] (60 min) Hops 73.2 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (30 min) Hops 22.1 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (10 min) Hops 10.4 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (1 min) Hops 1.2 IBU
2.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
1 Pkgs Pacman Yeast (Wyeast) [Starter 50 ml] [Cultured] Yeast-Ale
My process for BIAB partials with two 5 gallon pots has been as follows:
Strike with 3 gallons
Sparge with 1.5
Boil as usual
Efficiency has been around 68%
My pre-boil volume usually comes to about 3.8 gallons, which is plenty high in my brew kettle. However, by then end of a 60 min boil, I'm down to 3 gallons, leaving myself 2-2.5g of diluting top off water. It is my understanding that hop utilization goes down as gravity increases, so hopping in the concentrated wort will not be as efficient. On top of that, it'll be diluted by plain water.
Beersmith tells me that this method will result in 71 IBU, where the recipe should end at 103+
Aside from the late DME addition or adding lots of extra hops, I was thinking of ways to keep the IBU's high.
1. Do a 2nd sparge with 2 gallons, boil that thin wort for 60 min with .5 oz of magnum. Add that to the end of the main boil when there's some room in the kettle.
2. Boil a 2 gallon "hop tea" for 60 min with a small amount of DME the night before, cool it and use it as top off water. (comes to around 40 IBU)
3. Split the pre-boiled wort into two 5 gallon kettles, sparge until both reach 3 or 3.5 gallons. Split the hop additions between the two. (might be difficult with only 2 kettles and a bottling bucket)
4. Increase the boil time to 90 min (which means more boil off :cross
Any thoughts as to what would work best?
(originally started with 14# pale malt, Original Gravity: 1.077)
8 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain
4 lbs Light DME (late addition)
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 6.67 %
1.75 oz Magnum [14.00 %] (60 min) Hops 73.2 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (30 min) Hops 22.1 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (10 min) Hops 10.4 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (1 min) Hops 1.2 IBU
2.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
1 Pkgs Pacman Yeast (Wyeast) [Starter 50 ml] [Cultured] Yeast-Ale
My process for BIAB partials with two 5 gallon pots has been as follows:
Strike with 3 gallons
Sparge with 1.5
Boil as usual
Efficiency has been around 68%
My pre-boil volume usually comes to about 3.8 gallons, which is plenty high in my brew kettle. However, by then end of a 60 min boil, I'm down to 3 gallons, leaving myself 2-2.5g of diluting top off water. It is my understanding that hop utilization goes down as gravity increases, so hopping in the concentrated wort will not be as efficient. On top of that, it'll be diluted by plain water.
Beersmith tells me that this method will result in 71 IBU, where the recipe should end at 103+
Aside from the late DME addition or adding lots of extra hops, I was thinking of ways to keep the IBU's high.
1. Do a 2nd sparge with 2 gallons, boil that thin wort for 60 min with .5 oz of magnum. Add that to the end of the main boil when there's some room in the kettle.
2. Boil a 2 gallon "hop tea" for 60 min with a small amount of DME the night before, cool it and use it as top off water. (comes to around 40 IBU)
3. Split the pre-boiled wort into two 5 gallon kettles, sparge until both reach 3 or 3.5 gallons. Split the hop additions between the two. (might be difficult with only 2 kettles and a bottling bucket)
4. Increase the boil time to 90 min (which means more boil off :cross
Any thoughts as to what would work best?