Anti-Bling High Lead Chinese Brass Dirty Cheap Build

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klyph

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Started building my 10 gallon system for as absolutely cheap as I could make it. Let me know what you think.


Here's a few pics of the kegs and the angle grinder jig I made.
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Drilling the holes with step bits is a PAIN in the ASS. Don't get a cheap step bit, this one lasted one hole before I had to go buy a decent one.
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Here's the 50' 1/2" coil. I wrapped it around a corny keg, of course :rockin:
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Tiny fingers are best for getting the dirt out of the crevices.
This will be the boil keggle.
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Here's the Mash Tun and Hot Liquor Tank with valves and pickup tubes installed.
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This is the HLT showing the holes for the coil.
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Now I need to order sight glass/thermometers, hose and quick disconnects, and a pump before this can proceed.
 
Great craftmanship on the build so far. Funny thread name too. Looking foward to the rest of the build.
 
Use oil when drilling through SS and your bit will last longer.

Yeah, we used honing oil, because that's what we had laying around, but it's thinner than cutting oil, so...

Anyway, it was definitely the fact that I was using a cheap bit the first time. The second bit cut way faster, and went the distance. Still a pain in the ass.
 
I started pricing how much it would cost to make build an all stainless all the way herms system. This quickly made me realize that I wouldn't even be able to afford -just- the fittings. So bring on the brass baby.
 
Yeah, I think with it was about $400 for just the stainless fittings. Crazy.

Maybe a future upgrade, but I'll get it running first.
 
The thing I like about going all stainless is that you get to shop around for parts...a little here, a little there, and it keeps things interesting. I like to tinker, so in the past I've gotten bored a few months after buying all brass stuff in one fell swoop. YMMV.

Still, your craftsmanship is good! That HERMS coil is perfect, and I especially like that jig. I think your rig is going to look anything but cheap ;)
 
The thing I like about going all stainless is that you get to shop around for parts...a little here, a little there, and it keeps things interesting. I like to tinker, so in the past I've gotten bored a few months after buying all brass stuff in one fell swoop. YMMV.
Yeah, it's really that I just couldn't bite the bullet and throw that kind of coin all at once. I did just make an order with Bargain Fittings, so there'll be a few stainless pieces to come.
Still, your craftsmanship is good! That HERMS coil is perfect,and I especially like that jig.
Thanks, for the HERMS coil, I found that wrapping it around a corny was best accomplished by laying the tubing on padded carpet and rolling the corny over top of it keeping it tight with your knees. I did it in a long carpeted hallway.

I think your rig is going to look anything but cheap ;)
I hope so, what I lack in funds, maybe I can make up for with quality work.
 
Did you use that grinder to cut the hole in the lid of the keg? I have a keg and I want to do this as well can you provide some details. Such as how powerful of a grinder, the bit used, and the technique to keeping it circular, using your jig and all. Is this something somebody with no experience can do? How long did it take?
 
Did you use that grinder to cut the hole in the lid of the keg? I have a keg and I want to do this as well can you provide some details. Such as how powerful of a grinder, the bit used, and the technique to keeping it circular, using your jig and all. Is this something somebody with no real tooling experience can do? How long did it take?

The grinder is an off the shelf dewalt, I used thin cut-off disks. The black piece is a 1.5" ABS coupler that fits into the existing hole after removing the spear from the keg. That is what keeps the grinder going in a circle. I believe someone with a minimum of mechanical ability could accomplish this. It took about 15 minutes to hunt down the pieces in the hardware store, 10 minutes to assemble, 15 minutes to cut the top off one keg and file the edge smooth.
 
Sorry to bug you again, for one keg, do you think a single disk would be enough, and did you use something else to smooth it off? Did you screw that jig thing into your grinder? I am trying to borrow a grinder but may have to improvise a different rig.
 
You should be able to do it with one disk, I think I used 2 on 3 kegs. And i used a coarse half round file to knock the edges off, then a fine half round file to smooth it out. I attached the jig to two of the screws that hold the grinder body together. If you can get a grinder with a handle attachment point on the back, you can put the all-thread straight into that.
 
Got what I think is all the materials but not sure if I will be able to get it together. We shall see.
 
My efforts are postponed. The grinder I borrowed from a coworker is one of the el cheapo ones from the discount part stores, the brand is Chicago. Anyways it doesn't seem to be equipped to handle thin cut off wheels because when I tighten the bit all the way to the end of the threading it isn't tight on the wheel, it still spins freely. I think if I buy a few washers I can get it tightened, but I am not positive this is a good idea. No keggle for me yet, but soon! Thanks agian for the info on the rig, I bought a bunch of parts and will try to peice them together tonight to see if I can get it to work similar to yours.
 
My grinder seems bulky, its a 7", and trying to get the jig thing together and still have room to cut is tricky, will take another stab at it tomorrow, since I am brewing today.
 
I started pricing how much it would cost to make build an all stainless all the way herms system. This quickly made me realize that I wouldn't even be able to afford -just- the fittings. So bring on the brass baby.

SS Really isn't that much more than brass. The thing is that there isn't one place that's the cheapest for everything. You really have to shop around because you will see prices that vary almost 3 fold. I ended up starting a spreadsheet and mined all the sites for their prices. An example is a 1/2 close nipple for $2.75 at one place and it's $1 at another. A 1/2" male NPT barb is $1.98 or $4.95. The other thing to thing of is how much more it's going to cost you when/if you do decide to go SS since you have the sunk cost of the brass.


Here's what I know BUT I'm not sure how well it pastes in.



Site Type Description Price
http://www.greatbargain.net Ball Valve 1/2" Threaded Stainless Steel Full port Ball Valve. $13.00
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/ Ball Valve 1/2" Threaded NPT 1000 PSI 2-Piece Full Bore Ball Valve 316 SS** $19.99
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/ Ball Valve 1/2" Threaded NPT 1000 PSI 3-Piece Full Bore Ball Valve 316 SS** $35.99
http://morebeer.com Ball Valve Stainless Ball Valve - 1/2" Full Port H602 $18.95
http://morebeer.com Ball Valve Stainless Ball Valve - 1/2 in - 3 Piece H602D $25.00
http://www.weldlessfittings.com Ball Valve Stainless Full Port Ball Valve, 1/2" $12.00
http://www.greatbargain.net Barb 304 Stainless Steel 1/2" Male Pipe to 1/2" Barb. $7.00
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/ Barb 1/2" Threaded NPT Hose Nipple 304 SS V=2.36** $6.25
http://morebeer.com Barb Stainless - 1/2" mpt x 1/2" Barb H618 $4.95
http://morebeer.com Barb Stainless- 1/2" FPT x 1/2" Barb H618B $4.50
KLG Stainless (ebay) Barb 1/2" stainless steel 304 Hose Nipple(NPT) $1.98
KLG Stainless (ebay) Barb 1/2"FNPTx1/2"Hose Nipple(SS304) $2.25
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/ Bushing 1/2" x 1/8" Threaded NPT Hexagon Bushing SS I=.94 J=.83 $1.97
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/ Bushing 1/2" x 1/4" Threaded NPT Hexagon Bushing SS I=.94 J=.83 $1.97
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/ Cap 3/8" Threaded NPT Hexagon Head Caps 304 SS L=.67* $1.50
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/ Cap 1/2" Threaded NPT Hexagon Head Caps 304 SS L=.79 $1.63
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/ Cap 3/8" Threaded NPT Caps 304 SS N=.71 O=.98* $2.02
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/ Cap 1/2" Threaded NPT Caps 304 SS N=.83 O=1.1* $2.18
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/ Compression 5/16” Tube x 1/2” NPT Male Connector 316 SS* $14.13
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/ Compression 1/2” Tube x 1/2” NPT Male Elbow 316 SS $44.86
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/ Compression 1/2” Tube x 1/2” NPT Male Connector 316 SS $22.93
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/ Compression 1/2” Tube x 1/2” NPT Female Connector 316 SS $32.40
http://www.greatbargain.net Coupling Stainless Steel Coupling $4.00
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/ Coupling 1/2" Threaded NPT Coupling OD Machined 304 SS R=1.54 S=1.08** $2.76
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/ Coupling 1/2" Threaded NPT 1/2 Coupling O.D. Machined 304 SS* $1.68
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/ Coupling 3/4" Threaded NPT 1/2 Coupling O.D. Machined 304 SS* $2.66
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/ Cross 1/2" Threaded NPT Cross 304 SS A=1.1** $4.75
http://www.weldlessfittings.com Dip Tube $20.00
http://www.greatbargain.net Elbow SS 90 Degree $4.00
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/ Elbow 1/2" Threaded NPT 90 Elbow 304 SS A=1.1** $3.02
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/ Elbow 1/2" Threaded NPT Street Elbows 304 SS A=1.1 B=1.61* $3.02
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/ Elbow 1/2" Threaded NPT 45 Elbows 304 SS C=.87* $2.61
http://www.weldlessfittings.com Elbow 1/2" Elbow $4.00
http://www.weldlessfittings.com Element Nut Electric Element Adapter $9.00
http://www.greatbargain.net Nipple 304 Stainless Pipe nipple Close $4.00
http://www.greatbargain.net Nipple 1/2" Stainless steel pipe nipple. 1.5 inch long $4.50
http://www.greatbargain.net Nipple 1/2" Stainless steel pipe nipple. 2 inch long $4.75
http://morebeer.com Nipple Stainless Nipple - 1/2" x 2" Threaded $2.95
http://morebeer.com Nipple Stainless Nipple - 1/2'' x 1" Threaded H610 (for ball valve to union) $2.75
http://morebeer.com Nipple Stainless Nipple - 1/2" x 1.5'' Threaded H612 $3.90
KLG Stainless (ebay) Nipple 1/2"MNPTx 1-1/8"Length Seamless Pipe Nipple S40 (SS304) $1.00
http://www.greatbargain.net Nut Stainless Steel Locknuts $4.50
http://morebeer.com QD CPC QD Set - 1/2" MPT H501 $18.50
http://morebeer.com QD CPC Female QD - 1/2" MPT H501A $11.75
http://morebeer.com QD CPC Male QD - 1/2" MPT H501B $7.25
http://morebeer.com QD CPC QD Set - 1/2" Barb H501D $19.95
http://morebeer.com QD CPC Female QD - 1/2" Barb H501E $13.75
http://morebeer.com QD CPC Male QD - 1/2" Barb H501F $14.95
http://morebeer.com QD CPC QD Set - Male MPT/ Female Barb H501T $18.50
http://morebeer.com QD Male Stainless Steel Quick Disconnect w/Barb H507A $10.95
http://morebeer.com QD MPT Stainless Steel Female Quick Disconnect H503A $18.95
http://www.greatbargain.net Tee Stainless steel Tee $4.00
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/ Tee 1/2" Threaded NPT Tees 304 SS A=1.1** $3.68
http://www.weldlessfittings.com tee 1/2" Tee $4.50
http://morebeer.com Tubing Tubing - Silicone (1/2" ID) - By the Foot H985 $2.10
http://www.greatbargain.net Washer SS Washer Fits NPT $2.50
http://www.weldlessfittings.com Kettle Bulkhead $12.00
 
about the lead - assuming it's an issue:
"A solution of two parts white vinegar to one part hydrogen peroxide (common 3% solution) will remove tarnish and surface lead from brass parts when they are soaked for 5 minutes or less at room temperature. "
http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixB.html

But I rather suspect it'll be gone after the first cleaning.
 
I found a friend at work that has a plasma cutter so I am going to get him to cut a hole in my keg. Woot. Also Big thanks for that info that will be helpful. I did change my mind again and decided to go with stainless. It is a bit more expensive for the fittings but they will last forever and I will not have wasted the money on the brass when I eventually decide to go all stainless. Cheaper in the long run to do it right the first time, I hope. My build will probably take a few months as I slowly aquire more and more parts, budget permitting. This month was the tri-clover fittings, which I ordered from Swagman. Next month I think I will get the rest of the stainless fittings, then start working on the pump and what not. Good luck on this build Klyph, hope its coming along.
 
Didn't make much progress today, but I managed to install the HEX coil and take pictures of some goodies for you guys (and gals).

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Sight glass/Thermometers from Bargain Fittings. Awesome seller, fastest/cheapest shipping to Alaska on anything I've ever bought. Mad props.

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This was ridiculous. I was telling the old man about the little giant pump I bought off Ebay, and he wanders out into the garage and comes back with this in his hands. "Bought it at a garage sale for 5 bucks" he says.

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Why didn't he tell me about this before I blew 80 bucks on a used pump? This one's almost new, and free! Thanks Pops :mug:
 
Looking very nice... Looks well thought out.:)

Your rig looks a little more blingy than I expected ;)
 
Here's a shot of the Hot Liquor Tank and Mash Tun

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Sight glass/thermos from bargain fittings.

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Here's some shots of the Mash Tun. I used an old colander for the "false bottom" The holes are 1/8 inch, which seems a tad large, does anyone know if this will be too large, or will it grab the husks?

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And here's a shot of the Hot Liquor Tank with the Thermometer probe.

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I think most false bottoms are 3/32 so 1/8 may be too big. You may be able to let your bed settle and then recirculate to set it up but it also looks like you need way more holes as well. You could add some at 5/32 on center.
 
Interesting falsie idea. I used to have a folding steamer basket as a falsie, it worked REALLY well. This looks much like the same idea. Should work fine, I mean, people get away with SS braids. I am curious about how the geometry will affect the lauter.
 
I'll at least be adding holes around the bottom to avoid it pooling up around the lip. I'll use it as is during the test run.
 
Waiting on my orders from Mcmaster Carr and Bargain Fittings. I still need to order the bits for the control box. Been lazy lately.
 
Cool. My "build" consists of 7 tri-clover fittings that swagman made up for me earlier in the month. That saturated my budget for the build for this month. Though next month I think I will be purchasing another 200 dollars worth of fittings from McMaster and Bargain fittings.
 
Do you think the thermometer will be affected by the burner since it is fairly close to the bottom of the kettle? I need to drill out my kettle for a therm/sight glass and have been wondering where to drill the hole.
 
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