Extract addition in last 15min of boil?

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I didn't realize I was carrying a torch (I thought it was a mug :mug: ), but...you're welcome. :D

I've been doing the late addition brewing for several years. I didn't know anyone else was doing it until recently then all the articles already written on the subject came out of the woodwork so to speak...well, one thing lead to another...I thought I was only brewing beer...;)

I've been brewing since '94 (took a 5 year break when I moved to Germany in '99) and I still learn a few things around here myself.
 
homebrewer_99 said:
IMO, it's your fruit that's causing the cloudiness for that brew. Give it more time and it'll fall out I'm sure.

The first and second pics are late addition/all DME brews. The 3rd is a Hefe Weizen BEFORE I pour in the yeast. Clear enough? :D

I used that method for my hefe too and it was also remarkably clear without the yeast. Makes for a great Krystalweizen if that's your thing too. :D
 
Ok i want in on this thread. Is there any sort of general formula to use to convert a full malt boil down to a water boil with late ME addition?

SHould the hops be cut in half, down to a third? ETC. I konw it depends on what the OG is supposed to be but could we assume it was always 1.050 or would a slight variation in that make a huge difference?

I would like to try this method but dont know how to change the Hop additions.
 
RyanJE said:
Ok i want in on this thread. Is there any sort of general formula to use to convert a full malt boil down to a water boil with late ME addition?

SHould the hops be cut in half, down to a third? ETC. I konw it depends on what the OG is supposed to be but could we assume it was always 1.050 or would a slight variation in that make a huge difference?

I would like to try this method but dont know how to change the Hop additions.

Post your recipe...I am sure someone with software will help you. Each recipe is different. My APA was half the bittering and flavor hops, then all the aroma hops.
 
This is a recipe for a simple hefeweizen. if someone could put this into one of their calculators I would greatly appreciate it. Thank You.

6lbs bavarian dried wheat malt extract (60% wheat, 40% barley)
.5oz northern brewer hops 6.8
 
rcdirtbuggy said:
This is a recipe for a simple hefeweizen. if someone could put this into one of their calculators I would greatly appreciate it. Thank You.

6lbs bavarian dried wheat malt extract (60% wheat, 40% barley)
.5oz northern brewer hops 6.8
If you are you making a German-style HW you would not use NB hops. Hallertau, Spalt, or Tettnanger would be the way to go.
 
I am doing the fat tire clone from AHS next week. I want to do the mini mash and also do a full 5 gal. boil. So my question is should I do a 60 min boil adding the ingredients as normal and the the last 10-15 min add the LME? Also when you do a full 5 gal. boil how much of the hops should I cut back on? Thanks
 
kingjam said:
I am doing the fat tire clone from AHS next week. I want to do the mini mash and also do a full 5 gal. boil. So my question is should I do a 60 min boil adding the ingredients as normal and the the last 10-15 min add the LME? Also when you do a full 5 gal. boil how much of the hops should I cut back on? Thanks

Pst the recipe with the amount of hops it calls for and someone will break it down for a late extract addition for you.
 
rcdirtbuggy said:
Yes, i'll be useing the white labs german hefeweizen yeast.
Great. Get yourself some German hops and you should have an outstanding brew.

Instead of the 6.8% for 30mins you could use 3.4 for 1 hour. It's the same. Or use 2 oz of the 3.4% for 30 mins. The choice is yours. :D
 
rcdirtbuggy said:
i didn't know that. it's just the hops that came with the kit.
Who did you buy the kit from, seems like they might have given you the wronf hops by mistake.
 
I have a recipe that needs to be converted. I thought I would run it by the experts. . .

3lbs pilsner malt
1 lb vienna malt
1lb white wheat malt
3-3.5 lb DME (enough to get to 1.046 OG) Added with 15 minutes remaining.

1 oz Tettanger bittering (60 min)
.5 Spalt flavoring (30 min)
.5 Saaz flavoring (30 min)

I am looking for about 26-28 IBU.

I may add some hops for aroma, but that won't change right?

Thanks.
 
i got my kit from beer beer and more beer. www.morebeer.com . they seem to really know their stuff, and my brew came out really great, but if it will come out better with a different hops, then please tell me. what should I use??
 
rcdirtbuggy said:
i got my kit from beer beer and more beer. www.morebeer.com . they seem to really know their stuff, and my brew came out really great, but if it will come out better with a different hops, then please tell me. what should I use??

I would use hallertau 3/4 oz bittering, 1/4 oz aroma. Drop the bittering down a bit if you are adding extract late.
 
Beerrific said:
I have a recipe that needs to be converted. I thought I would run it by the experts. . .

3lbs pilsner malt
1 lb vienna malt
1lb white wheat malt
3-3.5 lb DME (enough to get to 1.046 OG) Added with 15 minutes remaining.

1 oz Tettanger bittering (60 min)
.5 Spalt flavoring (30 min)
.5 Saaz flavoring (30 min)

I am looking for about 26-28 IBU.

I may add some hops for aroma, but that won't change right?

Thanks.

I will probably do
.75 Tettanger bitering
1/3 saaz flavoring
1/3 spalt flavoring

.25 or so of spalt and saaz for aroma
 
Well, there were a lot of proponents and opponents to the late addition extract method. Yesterday i brewed and went with the full 60 minutes. I'm brewing a brewers best continental pilsner. Beersmith put it at about 17 srm, and what is in the fermenter looks almost exactly like yoohoo.

It's a 5 gallon batch with 2 lb of light DME and a 3.3lb can of coopers light LME. For next time, should i have added the DME at 60 minutes and the LME in the last 15? I don't know why, but my SG was 1.036 at 68 degrees. It's supposed to be between 1.044 and 1.048.
 
Well, I basically abandoned extract when I did a couple of AG's. The flavor was fantastic compared to previous extract batches I'd done before. For the hell of it I tried a late extract with steeping grains Paulaner-like hefewiezen.

I'm sorry to report that I still noticed a tinge of extract tang in the hefe. It's a decent drinkable beer but just not ringing my bell like the AG's.

Who knows. So many variables.
 
I was thinking I could reduce the amount of hops due to increased utilization from late LME addition or decreasing the boil time should work too. Would this work? Is there any reason why you have to boil for one hour?

I made a late LME addition batch. It is a scottish ale 12 # amber LME. I added 1/2 early when I first got the water to boil. I only did a 50 minute boil to make up for increased hops utilization. Thinking about it now I probably should have done 40-45 minutes. I added the second half of the LME with 10 minutes left on the boil.

So what do the experts say about this method? I wouldn't recommend trying it until we get some feedback.
 
It wasn't prehopped. There were 2 ounces of hops to add. I added 1 oz at the start of the 50 minute boil (said add with 60 minutes left in the instructions), 1/2 oz at 15 minutes left and 1/2 oz with 5 minutes left.
 
I recently did a late extract brew adding half at the start and the other half the last 15 minutes of a 90 minute boil (LME). I didn't adjust my hops and the reason is that is why I did a late addition in the first place....more hop utilization.
I remember reading in BYO that extract brews really don't get much out of the hops because they are too concentrated and the way to get the most bang for your buck so to speak, was an extract late.
 
Wow! I'm glad I found this discussion thread. Great topic. In regard to determining whether the wort has already been through hot break prior to the creation of the extract and whether it is really necessary to boil the extract, John Palmer addresses these issues very clearly in the 3rd edition of his "How To Brew" book. Unfortunately, he did not do this in the original 1st edition, which is the one that is freely available online.

I definitely recommend purchasing the 3rd edition. I'm not going to transcribe it all here, but to summarize his intro to Chapter 7: "Boiling and Cooling", he acknowledges that the extract has already been through hot break, but he states that the traditional benefits of boiling all of the extract for the full 60 minutes include "sanitization of all the extract and a very thorough hot break (coagulation) of any remaining protein from the extract manufacturing process". In other words, don't trust that the extract manufacturer fully boiled off all of those proteins.

However, he then goes on to point out that doing a boil in this manner results in some problems, namely "reduced hop isomerization, poorer foam stability, and flavor changes from Maillard reactions". He concludes the intro with the following statement:

"One partial solution to all these issues is to reduce the gravity of the boil by saving some of the extract until the end of the boil. This last extract can be boiled for just a few minutes for pasteurization and then cooled and diluted in the fermenter as before. The result is less wort darkening, better foam stability, and a reduction of potential off-flavors. I have made very good extract beers with this method; your mileage may vary".


So there you go.


Thanks,

Robert
 
I'm a newbie here, but I have several batches under my belt. Is the only reason for a short boil (15 minutes) to prevent darkening?? Since I brew mostly porters and stouts I'm not worried about color. Or should I be? Does the camaliziation (<<is that a real word) cause anything more than a darker brew? Does it affect taste?
 
Yes, the higher the gravity, the less hops utilization you'll get. It's not a problem if you're happy with what you're getting, though. I noticed that when I started doing late extract additions, the beers were about twice as bitter in IBUs. I used brewing software to find out the best way to hop my favorites. Maybe an easy way to save a few $$ on hops!
 
YooperBrew said:
Yes, the higher the gravity, the less hops utilization you'll get. It's not a problem if you're happy with what you're getting, though. I noticed that when I started doing late extract additions, the beers were about twice as bitter in IBUs. I used brewing software to find out the best way to hop my favorites. Maybe an easy way to save a few $$ on hops!

I understand the principle of what is being discussed here (great thread by the way) but I'm a bit cloudy on the specifics in terms of adjustments to how much *ME to add and when and how much hops to add and when relative to the length of the boil.

I like hoppy beer and I'll want to get the most out of them in the future. What software are you using?
 
I tried this on my most recent batch of Belgian Wit. My last BW was a little on the sweet side for me so I added a portion of the LME at the beginning of the boil and then dumped in the rest at the end. This batch has a good amount of bitterness although it is a little much for a Belgian Wit to me. I think I put in around 25% of the total LME at the beginning. The color is much lighter than my last batch though. Maybe next time I'll do a half-and-half addition.

Both batches are very drinkable but just a little on each side of the sweet/bitter flavor profile to my taste.

I'm interested to see how my SNPA works out using this method.
 
Neomich said:
I tried this on my most recent batch of Belgian Wit. My last BW was a little on the sweet side for me so I added a portion of the LME at the beginning of the boil and then dumped in the rest at the end. This batch has a good amount of bitterness although it is a little much for a Belgian Wit to me. I think I put in around 25% of the total LME at the beginning. The color is much lighter than my last batch though. Maybe next time I'll do a half-and-half addition.
I asked this question months ago on this site and the responders said to do the 1/2 and 1/2 solution to lighten the color. I did it with my Hefe and was very happy with the results. Ever since I have been doing this with great results. I tried a 1/4 to 3/4 (last 15 min.) with my latest Belgian Wit and it looks perfect and tastes right on.
Im a little confused, are people saying to add the last portion of the *ME in the latst 15 min AFTER the 60min boil? or in the last 15min OF the 60min boil? I added mine at 45 min into the boil. One thing I have noticed doing this is that I get a 2nd hot break, somthing to watch out for. :eek:
 
Aiko said:
Im a little confused, are people saying to add the last portion of the *ME in the latst 15 min AFTER the 60min boil? or in the last 15min OF the 60min boil? I added mine at 45 min into the boil.


I took it to mean the last 15 minutes OF the 60 minute boil. That's what I did.
 
<<I'm interested to see how my SNPA works out using this method.>>

I did half and half with LME on the SNPA clone i just brewed last saturday. Its fermenting now. 3.3 lbs @ the beginning of the boil, the other 3.3 lbs @ 20 min left in the boil. I'll let you know how it turns out.

I did the same thing with the Alpha King clone I brewed but it still came out a bit dark. Tastes great though. The aroma is almost spot on to a real Alpha King, the taste, while I can tell its not a real Alpha King is pretty darn close. I certainly don't mind knocking back a few.


I didn't really adjust the hops at all in the AK or the SNPA. Just did the additions as I normally would as if I had added it all at the beginning. I figure if it comes out a little bit hoppier, or a little more bitter, no big deal. I wasn't worried about hitting exact IBUs, etc. Just wanted a good enjoyable brew in the style of what I was cloning.
 
IowaStateFan said:
I did that but wasn't getting enough flavor from my late addition hops. I now boil for the full 60 minutes, turn out the flame and steep the rest of my extract for 15 minutes.

This is what I was thinking of for my next batch. Sorry for the noob questions but if the late addition (post flame out) is DME will it fully disolve without the heat? Wouldn't stiring it cool it down even faster and impact how well it disolves?

Sounds like I don't need to adjust my hops if I go half and half (I'm also not technical enough to calculate how to adjust and when to add based on *ME changes...although software is something I'll have to look into)
 
IowaStateFan said:
I did that but wasn't getting enough flavor from my late addition hops. I now boil for the full 60 minutes, turn out the flame and steep the rest of my extract for 15 minutes.

This sounds like a good idea. My last batch doesn't have much hops flavor and it's probably because all that LME that was in there. I'll definitely use this on my next batch. It's a Pale Rye Ale and there's no such thing as too hoppy with that.
 
gwood said:
This is what I was thinking of for my next batch. Sorry for the noob questions but if the late addition (post flame out) is DME will it fully disolve without the heat? Wouldn't stiring it cool it down even faster and impact how well it disolves?

Sounds like I don't need to adjust my hops if I go half and half (I'm also not technical enough to calculate how to adjust and when to add based on *ME changes...although software is something I'll have to look into)
Yes, it will dissolve. Add it 1 lb at a time and dissolve before adding the next lb.

Remember, you are starting at 212F and pasteurization takes place at what 160-180F?

As for your hop adjustment check out the Hop Utilization Chart in Charlie P's TCJOHB.
 
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