2.5 or three gallon cornies?

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I have both, depends on what you're using them for. If you travel with them, the 2.5's are smaller and fit in certain coolers better, plus a 5 gallon batch fills two of them nicely.

For me, I would buy the cheaper of the two.

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I've picked 2 1/2........... that way I can split a five gallon batch into one keg, and one case of bottles...
 
I have both, depends on what you're using them for. If you travel with them, the 2.5's are smaller and fit in certain coolers better, plus a 5 gallon batch fills two of them nicely.

For me, I would buy the cheaper of the two.

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10 dollar difference between the two so money isnt an issue.
 
more headspace for co2 ? or more surface area for the co2 to interact with the beer
 
more headspace for co2 ? or more surface area for the co2 to interact with the beer
Head space has nothing to do with it. It's only surface area that matters and they are the same for 2-1/2 or 3 gallon kegs. The only time head space would effect it is if you disconnected the gas. Otherwise there is a constant pressure of CO2 on the given surface area.
 
The gas is pressing down on the beer. That pressure is measured in pounds per square inch. More gas volume = more square inches = more pressure on the beer forcing gas into solution faster.

Try it.
 
or if you lay the keg on its side the surface area increases fromn a 2.5 - 3 gallon keg ...
 
That pressure is measured in pounds per square inch. More gas volume = more square inches = more pressure on the beer forcing gas into solution faster.
Ahhhhh. It's a measurement in square inches, not cubic inches. Volume has nothing to do with it. Only surface area.







or if you lay the keg on its side the surface area increases fromn a 2.5 - 3 gallon keg ...
Yes. If you lay your keg on its side, but . . . . who does this? Sound like a good way to get beer in your gas line.
 
Right put it takes more gas to fill a larger space to the same psi meaning more 'weight' pressing down on the beer.
 
I think the weight of the extra gas will be minimal. The pressure on the surface of the beer is almost completely a product of the pressure, meaning how much gas is crammed into the space.

Now, a larger headspace would need more gas to get to the same pressure, so it could be said that the smaller keg would use less gas.
 
3 gallon one will carb 2.5 gallons of beer faster.
Yeah, it will take a little more gas to fill the difference in head space between a 2-1/2 gallon keg and a 3 gallon keg,
but this guy is trying to convince us that the same volume of beer will carb faster with more head space. :drunk:
 
I'd get the 3 gallon corny... A bit more capacity, means you can probably use it more. I do plan on using the 3 gallon size corny's when I get into kegging. That way, I can put most of the batch into the keg, and bottle the balance with ease.
 
I'd get the 3 gallon corny... A bit more capacity, means you can probably use it more. I do plan on using the 3 gallon size corny's when I get into kegging. That way, I can put most of the batch into the keg, and bottle the balance with ease.


I had bought 2.5 gallon ones and then found a good deal on 3 gallons so now i own both... I think if im not crazy i saw a video of some guy force carbing beer in a keg by preasuizing and then rolling the keg on its side and rolling it across the floor. i was like hmmm .... :drunk:
 
I had bought 2.5 gallon ones and then found a good deal on 3 gallons so now i own both... I think if im not crazy i saw a video of some guy force carbing beer in a keg by preasuizing and then rolling the keg on its side and rolling it across the floor. i was like hmmm .... :drunk:

I know people do it (rapid force carbonating)... Chances are, I won't be one of them... I'm planning on using the slower force carbonating method (2 weeks at serving temp and pressure)...

There's a post on here about how doing the rapid force carbonation can actually take just as long to actually stabilize... Or, your chances of hitting it just right are not as good (at least until you've done it enough times)... I'd rather use a method that has a higher chance of getting it right the first time. I'm also not about to try and rush a brew to be ready ahead of time. If someone wants a brew for an event/party/etc, then they need to tell me far enough ahead so that I can brew it, bottle/keg it and have it ready for drinking by then... If they don't give me enough time, then I'm not bringing home brew...
 
Yeah, I'm not sure I buy the theory that you can carbonate any faster based on the size of the keg. 12 PSI is 12 PSI. If you use the 'set it and forget it' method, it doesn't matter what volumn the vessel is, I think it's going to take the same amount of time to absorb.

I won't even debate the 'quick carb' method. Far too many variables and not nearly as accurate!
 
I agree, it's the PSI that will do the carbonating. If you put 3 gallons into a 5 gallon corny, and apply 12 PSI, at serving temp, it will carbonate to that CO2 level in the normal 2 week time frame.

While I know some people use the rapid method, to get their beer carbonated the same day (or within hours), you get mixed results. You could do it 100% right, and get it carbonated properly and perfect for drinking right then. But I've also seen reference where it actually needs a few days to actually stabilize (and you need to do more to get that to happen)... Where if you go with the 2 weeks at temp and serving pressure, you attach the gas, set the pressure and walk away. Maybe checking on the pressure every few days to make sure you don't have an o-ring that needs replacing...
 

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