Sparge arm

So after about a year of brewing I am tired of standing over my MLT with a slotted spoon during the sparge. Does anyone know of any good tutorials for a diy sparge arm?

I was in your shoes last fall. I know exactly where you're coming from.

I bought a new HLT, and converted my old homemade false bottom manifold into a sparging manifold.

The old false bottom was a square pattern of copper piping with holes punched on one side. I turned it upside down, moved some pieces around, and soldered some to others so it wouldn't come apart. I replaced the four elbows with tees and extended the sides a bit to rest on top of my MLT also.

Now I just hook up my HLT via 3/8 hosing to the new sparging manifold, controlling the flow with the ball valve, and I couldn't be happier! Once I find the equilibrium (HLT flow out = MLT flow out) I can "set and forget." I don't have pictures yet, but I plan on taking some soon. If you're lost, let me know and that might persuade me to take them sooner.

Cheers,
TB

Not gonna lie... I've read it a couple of times and I'm lost. You're losing me with the HLT and the MLT flowing from one to the other... I use a cooler to mash and lauter.

Yep I'm an idiot... got it... one is filled with sparge water... sorry been working since yesterday morning... I'm ready to go home.

it's also for fly sparging

I don't use a sparge arm, just a piece of foil with a bunch of holes in it set on the grain bed. I let my hose from the HLT set on top and sparge slowly. Works like a charm, but still it would be cool to show off a fancy sparge arm.

wegz15 said:

So after about a year of brewing I am tired of standing over my MLT with a slotted spoon during the sparge. Does anyone know of any good tutorials for a diy sparge arm?

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Ha,Ha.

This imply s you know the setup.

wegz15 said:

Yep I'm an idiot... got it... one is filled with sparge water... sorry been working since yesterday morning... I'm ready to go home.

Click to expand...

This following your first post says, you are not fit to drive a vehicle. At all.

You be safe brother.


Now, on topic.
I have found my favorite sparge device I ever built is a spray nozzle. The kind used for washing off things like potatoes on conveyors. It gives a fan type pattern like a spoon under running water.

hfd73 said:

I don't use a sparge arm, just a piece of foil with a bunch of holes in it set on the grain bed. I let my hose from the HLT set on top and sparge slowly. Works like a charm, but still it would be cool to show off a fancy sparge arm.

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I agree...I actually use the top from a sour cream container...works perfectly

I had some spare 3/8" copper tubing lying around. I used tube bending springs to fit the tubing around the cooler top of my MLT. I thin drilled a series of 1/8" holes at varying angles around the tubing. Once I got the tubing level I got a nice gentle shower effect and have been hitting my gravity numbers without any problems.

Hasn't it been proven that if you maintain an inch or two above the surface of the grain bed that just having a hose float on the top is sufficient (blichmann autosparge) and that sprinklers/drippers etc lose a lot of temp?
I primarily Batch sparge but I read too much.

wegz
i use (well used to use) a round 10 igloo cooler. i made a sparge system out of 1/2" pvc with holes in the bottom. i have it secured to the top of the coolers lid. all i do is turn on the valve from the HLT and let the shower begin. i tried a lot of different things and this seems to work the best. plus you get to make. if i know how to post pics i would post a few to explain what i mean... good luck.

I built a CPVC one for my Blue Igloo, I like it beacuse I can sparge with the lid close.

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that is the same concept i used. my inlet for the sparge arm comes out of the top of my cooler. you are right it is great to sparge with the lid on....

bendavanza said:

Hasn't it been proven that if you maintain an inch or two above the surface of the grain bed that just having a hose float on the top is sufficient (blichmann autosparge) and that sprinklers/drippers etc lose a lot of temp?
I primarily Batch sparge but I read too much.

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+1 If you fly sparge those gadgets are a disadvantage. A piece of silicone tube will float on top of 2 inches of sparge water above the grain bed. If you buy a Brew Magic system this is exactly they do it also along with the Blichmann Autosparge.

+2 on that method. I was heavily into trying to reinvent the wheel when it came to my sparge arm. I made two as a matter of fact. Once I started reading and listening to the guys on this board that have done it forever, I switched my process.

Instead of silicone hose I use 1/2" Loc-Line that I purchased from McMaster Carr.

I have a phil's sparge arm I got in the 90s when i thought I was going to go all grain. Never used it till recently. It works well though after some modification.

http://www.listermann.com/Store/Details.asp?ID=17

I expanded the holes a little with a sharp file point to increase the flow. To install I drilled a small hole in the top of my cooler and forced the copper tube through it. It keeps it tight enough so I can push the sparge arm up or down to keep it near the level of my mash.

I am finding a bit of heat loss though probably from fine drops of water coming off the rotating arm getting aerated. Sawdustguys probably right on the need only to have a hose into a surface water, however I have already drilled a hole and adapted the system. I may try increasing my strike water temp to compensate for heat loss.

My most recent project was to add another line into the MLT from the HLT so I can cycle hot water through the system faster to bring it up to temp.

Hehehe, I didnt read enough and built m sparge manifold with the holes facing up, guess i have to fire up the old torch and spin that baby over! Doht!

Wade E said:

Hehehe, I didnt read enough and built m sparge manifold with the holes facing up, guess i have to fire up the old torch and spin that baby over! Doht!

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Unless I am mistaken, B3 has their holes facing up. Support it just above the surface of the grain bed.

Hmm... might just go the cheap route and have the hose float. Thanks for all the replies.

For the $ .. just get one of these. I have used my phil's arm for over 2 years. Easy to setup and use. http://www.listermann.com/Store/products.asp?txtQuery=sparger

GreenMonti said:

Unless I am mistaken, B3 has their holes facing up. Support it just above the surface of the grain bed.

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Hopefully that is true so I dont have to go playing with it cause its on there pretty good And to take it off would be trouble!

I've seen some other good suggestions here other than what I said. I'd like to add, though, that using a sparging nozzle, arm, or manifold of any kind does not necessarily have the disadvantages that some mentioned.

Yes, I do maintain about 1-2" of water on top of the grain bed, but I still keep the light sprinkle going from my sparging manifold. I might lose 2-3 deg from the manifold to the grain bed tops, but I put my sparge water in the HLT about 2-3 hotter than I want for sparging. Besides, I've brewed on large scale professional systems, and guess what -they use their sparging system constantly just like I do at home. Don't worry about what Blichmann or its customers tell you, do what works for you and your budget. You're here to make good beer, and if you're getting that, then you've got nothing to fret about.

Cheers,
TB

Behold,

the Sparge-o-Matic!

One gallon water jug with the top cut away, holes drilled in the bottom. and suspended from above.

One of the benefits of this system is that runnings from the vorlauf are poured into the jug, not directly on the grain bed. This shot shows the sparge water being pumped in. Before I got the pump I would just pour the sparge water into the jug. Sparge rate is determined by the number and size of the holes in the jug.



Total cost $ 0.00

arturo7 said:

Behold,

the Sparge-o-Matic!

One gallon water jug with the top cut away, holes drilled in the bottom. and suspended from above.

One of the benefits of this system is that runnings from the vorlauf are poured into the jug, not directly on the grain bed. This shot shows the sparge water being pumped in. Before I got the pump I would just pour the sparge water into the jug. Sparge rate is determined by the number and size of the holes in the jug.

Total cost $ 0.00

Click to expand...

Hey, whatever works! Way to be resourceful!

tgrier said:

For the $ .. just get one of these. I have used my phil's arm for over 2 years. Easy to setup and use. http://www.listermann.com/Store/products.asp?txtQuery=sparger

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That thing sucks... I've seen 7 so far either trashed or given away. I know 2 that were then re-given away again...

I use a sprinkler head, not really an issue with heat loss but when I get my new keggle done, I'll be switching to the hose method...

I'll be making one out of a shower head.

Wade E said:

Hopefully that is true so I dont have to go playing with it cause its on there pretty good And to take it off would be trouble!

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Here you go. You can see the holes on top.
http://morebeer.com/view_product/9174//Gravity_Sparge_Arm

Thanks, I must have seen this idea somewhere before doing such a thing.

The only thing I can say....if SABCO only uses a hose for recirculation....why wouldn't you consider that instead of spending countless hours fabricating or 30-50 bucks trying to find the perfect sparge arm?

Since I started using the hose (in my case loc-line) I have better results and no clogged pinholes etc etc.

ILOVEBEER said:

The only thing I can say....if SABCO only uses a hose for recirculation....why wouldn't you consider that instead of spending countless hours fabricating or 30-50 bucks trying to find the perfect sparge arm?

Since I started using the hose (in my case loc-line) I have better results and no clogged pinholes etc etc.

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Because its all about the gadgets. Don't you know??

Mine doesn't clog. Its small. Its easily cleaned. It pops in in just seconds. I wish it was a little more sleek.





Edit: Ha,Ha. Maybe I should call it a sparge finger.

GreenMonti said:

Because its all about the gadgets. Don't you know??

Mine doesn't clog. Its small. Its easily cleaned. It pops in in just seconds. I wish it was a little more sleek.

Edit: Ha,Ha. Maybe I should call it a sparge finger.

Click to expand...

And a hell of a lot cheaper than MB $48 out the door copper hoop. How can this MB unit be adjusted for different grain batch amounts be 5 pounds or 30 pounds of grain? A length of silicone hose has worked for me plus cheaper as well matches the different grain bed amounts.

No brass for me...............I agree....I was after the perfect sparge assembly.....hose is the way to go!

Am I wrong, but if you use some sort of sparge assembly you lose heat. I just let it run over the grain bed with aluminum foil over the bed. The HLT temp is 175 and the water on the grain bed is usually 171.

BrewBeemer said:

And a hell of a lot cheaper than MB $48 out the door copper hoop. How can this MB unit be adjusted for different grain batch amounts be 5 pounds or 30 pounds of grain? A length of silicone hose has worked for me plus cheaper as well matches the different grain bed amounts.

Click to expand...

That's not a MB unit. I made that. I got the spray nozzle back when I built commercial food processing equipment. Wash down conveyors, dough sheeters, enrobing units,ect...I don't adjust for different heights of grain. It just does its thing. When spraying on top of the grain bed there isn't any reason to adjust the height. The weight of the vorlauf or sparge water doesn't create an issue at a higher point. Its force is spread out unlike a hose. You might loose a little more heat, but that's about it.

Me bad my mistake. I thought it was a MB unit in my "little mind". With the wide range of batch sizes with grain bed heights planned of 10# to 60# in the same MLT the fixed ring would not work for my next system build. As you stated your not hosing the grain bed so there's no problem with your design I agree. I was thinking a simple adjustable by gravity silicone hose with a short bent SS tip planned in the design. The slightly upward return circulation to the MLT with minimal turbulence within the liquid level above the grain bed.

I have a 10-gallon round MLT. Drilled a hole in the lid for sparging/recirculation. I have been using a bucket lid drilled full of holes. It floats nicely on top of the sparge water and I just let water flow from tubing on top of that.

It looks like I am pushing the temp limits of HDPE at mashout temps but I have never had issues. I have been looking for a better system but this has been working for now. Maybe I will try some foil next time.

Okay here is mine. In todays dollars it was zero as I had the rotating arm from 15 years ago when listerman was one of the few high end suppliers for cool brewing stuff.

I just read a quote from Phil who is the manufacturer that said it is his most useless item he designed with the only benefit is the ability to watch it spin. I don't even get to watch it spin as it happens inside the closed lid.

I just added the second valve and hose for faster adding of water. I could just use a hose from this second bulkhead with the larger hose to bring in the water for the sparging process. My question is how much heat might I be loosing from the fine spray if it occurs in an enclosed insulated compartment that is heated to at least 150 degrees?

I took the spear from a keg, removed the bulk of the head (spring, etc) and drilled 2 holes every inch along the length of it. The silicon hose stretches around the base of the spear and I use a ball valve to control the flow from my pump.

listermanns is in my hometown. i have the phils sparge arm and i could not get it to work. infact it would not even spin for me.
on the other hand a buddy of mine uses it on a very regular basis and is very successful!!! so i guess it is really personal preference in what you want to use. everyone has what works for them and none of them seem to be better than the other. so keep posting ideas and we (gadget junkies) will keep making them in our garages....

hfd73 said:

Am I wrong, but if you use some sort of sparge assembly you lose heat. I just let it run over the grain bed with aluminum foil over the bed. The HLT temp is 175 and the water on the grain bed is usually 171.

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It depends on the atomization of the water, ambient temperature, time between leaving the nozzle/arm/manifold and entering lauter, and other factors. It will vary from system to system. I personally don't lose more than 3 degrees MAX (as far as I've measured), and I could adjust accordingly. If I heat my sparge water to 171 or so, the final temp in the lauter will abe around 168-169 usually. I see absolutely no problem with that, and have been very pleased with the results. Zero grain bed disturbance, and consistent quality runoff are a testament to that.

Besides, if you're losing that much heat using a sparge system, you could either 1) rethink the design to reduce heat loss, or 2) just heat up your sparge water to a higher initial temp. What's the big deal?

YMMV.