I may have drilled the keggle hole too big

Hey kids,

Building a new weldless keggle, and looks like I may have gone just a bit too big with the unibit (step drill). I only went to the recommended 7/8" but I probably should have stopped at 3/4".

When filled with hot water, the build doesn't leak too badly, but there's definitely a drip on the outside. I've sealed it up with plumber's tape, and that doesn't work really well. When the valve is opened the leak gets much worse.

I'm afraid that I'll have to get it welded now. Anyone have any thoughts?

Here are the parts, from the inside to the outside:

Bazooka screen
1/2" coupler
1/2" by 1" closed nipple
Lockdown nut
High-temp O ring
Keg wall
High-temp O ring
Lockdown nut
1/2" ball valve

Many thanks.

Can't you just use a larger diameter o-ring? Opening valve may move the assembly over to uncover the hole more.

Henry Hill said:

Can't you just use a larger diameter o-ring? Opening valve may move the assembly over to uncover the hole more.

Click to expand...

Thanks, Henry.

The o-rings that are installed have provided excellent seals with that sized nipple before. Are you referring to a thicker o-ring? That might make sense. But the diameter should be based off the diameter of the nipple itself.

I'm sure that opening the valve moves the assembly, which could exacerbate the leak a little. Also, the downward pressure of the water moving out of the valve probably pulls water from the leak more quickly.

Maybe a nice, fat o-ring will work. I'll definitely try that. Any other ideas?

I used flat silicone washers from McMaster-Carr. 99604A131

Mine ws drilled to 7/8"... and has not dripped in about 3 years.

It could be overtightened, or not tight enough. I have always enjoyed my weldless fittings.

evanmars said:

I used flat silicone washers from McMaster-Carr. 99604A131

Click to expand...

This is a great part. I went with a smaller inner diameter than you had suggested (3/4"). Thanks for the heads up about these.

I'd always done fine with the o-rings. Not sure why this one is leaking. I had to buy a pack of 10 from McMaster, so these are probably going into all my tuns and kettles. Thanks so much.

mramann said:

This is a great part. I went with a smaller inner diameter than you had suggested (3/4"). Thanks for the heads up about these.

I'd always done fine with the o-rings. Not sure why this one is leaking. I had to buy a pack of 10 from McMaster, so these are probably going into all my tuns and kettles. Thanks so much.

Click to expand...

Let us know how this works out.

My buddy has weldless fittings and he used baby bottle nipples to seal it up. He told me he just used a utility knife to cut the circle out and slipped them on. Worked great.... and cheap and easy to find. They also withstand heat pretty well.

The biggest problem with these assemblies is sealing between the Oring and the nipple threads.

The solution I think everyone must be using is packing the thread valleys with Teflon tape.

If you could just get the Oring to sit on the flat unthreaded part of the nipple, you'd only need the inner Oring and no teflon tape at all but I realize close nipples have no unthreaded portion.

evanmars said:

I used flat silicone washers from McMaster-Carr. 99604A131

Click to expand...

These are 0.99" ID and 2" OD. Why so large ID?

1/2" MPT fittings are only 3/4" so I would have thought that a 0.75" ID would work better no?

Kal

kal said:

These are 0.99" ID and 2" OD. Why so large ID?

1/2" MPT fittings are only 3/4" so I would have thought that a 0.75" ID would work better no?

Kal

Click to expand...

Kal - I figured the same thing. I ordered these:

http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.AS...tlLink&fasttrack=False&searchstring=99604A129

.74" ID for my 1/2" MPT fittings. They'll be here on Monday and I'll let everyone know how they work out. Nice, fat washers.

Thanks - yes - keep us posted. They're also a couple of bucks cheaper and you get 25 instead of 10!

Kal

How how'd they work out? Just curious as I'm putting together a McMaster order myself...

Kal

Hey Kal,

Yup. They worked out great. I do think I drilled the hold 1/16" too big, but with some good wrenching these seals hold real tight. Sorry I forgot to post here. From my experience these really are a great part. Make sure to get an SS washer for each seal in the same diameter. Really held tight once I put one of those suckers on there.

20 leak-free gallons and counting...

The silicon washers seam like a better route than o-rings. Wonder why I haven't seen more posts on them here???

Just my 2cents. But I didn't see any s/s washers on your list.
You cant crank down a nut on a O ring. Oring/washer/nut

mramann said:

Hey Kal,

Yup. They worked out great. I do think I drilled the hold 1/16" too big, but with some good wrenching these seals hold real tight. Sorry I forgot to post here. From my experience these really are a great part. Make sure to get an SS washer for each seal in the same diameter. Really held tight once I put one of those suckers on there.

20 leak-free gallons and counting...

Click to expand...

Excellent! Glad to hear. I ordered some last night too...

Kal

hammer one said:

Just my 2cents. But I didn't see any s/s washers on your list.
You cant crank down a nut on a O ring. Oring/washer/nut

Click to expand...

I did add an SS washer to either side of the vessel wall to enhance my ability to crank down on the silicone washer. Definitely helps to keep a nice seal.

I have replaced all the Orings on all my tuns and keggles with the silicone washers. Many thanks to whoever found those washers at McMaster.

Some nuts are designed with a recessed valley to accomodate an o-ring. This is the style of nut that BargainFittings.net sells. But, on the other side, you do need a washer between the coupler and the o-ring. I agree with Bobby_M that teflon tape is a bandaid. I don't load up the threads with teflon tape.

The problem I see happening often when using fittings like this is that when the system is overtightened, the o-ring pinches under torsion and loses seal. I spray the o-rings down with some food grade silicone lubricant before fitting everything together. That reduces the friction between the o-ring and the washer/kettle wall. I then use a pair of channel locks to hold the coupler still and I tighten only the locknut. Since the locknut has that recessed area, its less susceptible to kinking the o-ring. I've had great success with this procedure on both kettles and coolers. My weldless fittings don't leak one drop.

Another option that people can keep in mind is to use a washer outside the o-ring to keep it in place. Blichmann does this with their kettle fittings. The things are SOLID and the nuts cannot even be tightened any more even if you wanted to. There's no 'play' because the washer is in contact between the kettle wall and the device/nut on the outside.

For example, the weldless Brewmometers on my Blichmann pots came like this:



This gives you a super-solid seal that doesn't move if you push/pull on the Brewmometer. I really like this idea. I believe that Blichmann's trying to patent it too.

The trick is finding a washer that's a bit smaller in thickness than the o-ring.

Kal