1.061 to 1.024 ......
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It could be. Or it could be incorrect.
In order to tell you for sure, we'd need to know the ingredients, the mash temperature, and if you took the reading with a refractometer or a hydrometer.
Ingredients are a huge part of why FGs finish where they do, so without knowing that no one can say.
In order to tell you for sure, we'd need to know the ingredients, the mash temperature, and if you took the reading with a refractometer or a hydrometer.
Ingredients are a huge part of why FGs finish where they do, so without knowing that no one can say.
brycelarson
Well-Known Member
Post your recipe and we may be able to help. Without knowing ingredients, mash temp etc. it's just impossible.
Mash temp 66.
Ended up with 17.5 liter
FERMENT ABLES:
3 kg - Munich (61.9%)
1 kg - Amber (20.6%)
0.25 kg - Special B (5.2%)
0.25 kg - Pale Chocolate (5.2%)
0.25 kg - Aromatic (5.2%)
0.1 kg - Black Malt (2.1%)
HOPS:
20 g - Amarillo (AA 11.2) for 60 min, Type: Leaf/Whole, Use: Boil
10 g - East Kent Goldings (AA 5.4) for 15 min, Type: Leaf/Whole, Use: Boil
10 g - Northern Brewer (AA 10.5) for 5 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil
Ended up with 17.5 liter
FERMENT ABLES:
3 kg - Munich (61.9%)
1 kg - Amber (20.6%)
0.25 kg - Special B (5.2%)
0.25 kg - Pale Chocolate (5.2%)
0.25 kg - Aromatic (5.2%)
0.1 kg - Black Malt (2.1%)
HOPS:
20 g - Amarillo (AA 11.2) for 60 min, Type: Leaf/Whole, Use: Boil
10 g - East Kent Goldings (AA 5.4) for 15 min, Type: Leaf/Whole, Use: Boil
10 g - Northern Brewer (AA 10.5) for 5 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil
66C = 151 F Mash temp.
That is a low mash temp but your grist is made up of malts that do not attenuate as highly as base malts so that may have something to do with it.
What temperature are you fermenting at?
EDIT: I wish I had Amarillo hops to waste as bittering hops!
That is a low mash temp but your grist is made up of malts that do not attenuate as highly as base malts so that may have something to do with it.
What temperature are you fermenting at?
EDIT: I wish I had Amarillo hops to waste as bittering hops!
brycelarson
Well-Known Member
hmmm, yes, ferm temp please.
No one ever tried this?
You can't predict a FG very accurately with software. Most softwares just give you a guestimate of 75% attenuation or so, without taking into account the fermentability of the ingredients.
I know the older version of Beersmith would give you the same FG estimate whether you were fermenting corn sugar or crystal malt!
Ignore the projected FG in the software, for the most part. FG is determined by several factors- mash temp, ingredients, yeast strain attenuation, and yeast health primarily. You can guestimate 65-75% attenuation, but it may be higher or lower when you figure in all those factors.
Still, if you mashed at 151, with that grainbill and yeast strain, your FG should be much lower. Something isn't adding up. I'd double check the thermometer you used in the mash. If you mashed at 5 degrees higher, for example, the beer would probably be done at 1.024 and I would expect that.
WoodlandBrew
Well-Known Member
+1 to yoopers assessment
See this for information on thermometers:
http://woodlandbrew.blogspot.com/2012/10/mash-temperature-and-thermometers.html
See this for information on thermometers:
http://woodlandbrew.blogspot.com/2012/10/mash-temperature-and-thermometers.html
A few safe measures that will help you attain a lower FG (< 1.014):
*Mashing your unconverted grains long & low (60 minutes minimum at approx. 147-151 F)
*Supplementing a portion of the 2-row base with corn sugar - 4-7%(for all grain), 6-11% (for partial mash), 10-15% (for extract).
*Not using a lot of specialty grains with lower levels of fermentability.
*Using the appropriate amount of healthy, high attenuating yeast (making a yeast starter helps). I frequently get 82-84% apparent attenuation from moderate to high attenuators if I also follow all other methods listed here.
*Aerating your wort adequately before pitching your yeast.
*Target the ideal temperature range for the specific yeast by ensuring the temp. of your wort is at the low end range of the target temp. during the first 7-10 days. Bump up slightly to higher end after this time.
*3-4 week total fermentation and conditioning time in the fermenter.
*Shaking the fermenter once or twice when primary fermentation is stalling (after about 10 days). This wakes up some of the yeast so they eat more, but it can cloud your beer if bottling shortly after.
Perhaps others can chime in with more tips.
*Mashing your unconverted grains long & low (60 minutes minimum at approx. 147-151 F)
*Supplementing a portion of the 2-row base with corn sugar - 4-7%(for all grain), 6-11% (for partial mash), 10-15% (for extract).
*Not using a lot of specialty grains with lower levels of fermentability.
*Using the appropriate amount of healthy, high attenuating yeast (making a yeast starter helps). I frequently get 82-84% apparent attenuation from moderate to high attenuators if I also follow all other methods listed here.
*Aerating your wort adequately before pitching your yeast.
*Target the ideal temperature range for the specific yeast by ensuring the temp. of your wort is at the low end range of the target temp. during the first 7-10 days. Bump up slightly to higher end after this time.
*3-4 week total fermentation and conditioning time in the fermenter.
*Shaking the fermenter once or twice when primary fermentation is stalling (after about 10 days). This wakes up some of the yeast so they eat more, but it can cloud your beer if bottling shortly after.
Perhaps others can chime in with more tips.
WoodlandBrew
Well-Known Member
Nice list Bob,
I would probably say "swirl the fermenter once if the final gravity has stalled" instead of "shake" to avoid oxegenating the beer.
I would probably say "swirl the fermenter once if the final gravity has stalled" instead of "shake" to avoid oxegenating the beer.
Well you wouldn't really be shaking oxygen into it if, after a couple weeks, it's covered with a dense C02 blanket and capped with an airlock. But yes, good point. I did not mean to remove the airlock and shake the hell out of it. Just give it a nice swirl... guess that's a better word.
brycelarson
Well-Known Member
I move mine to warmer temps after a majority of the ferm is complete. This speeds up the finishing stages. Especially in the winter where my basement ferm area is at 60 deg or below. I often bring my beers up to the house for 3-5 days after about 2 weeks. Speeds up the ferm for those last few points.
WoodlandBrew
Well-Known Member
Yes, quite true. Assuming the beer was not racked to a secondary vessel prior to the perceived stall, there would be very little oxygen in the air space.
WoodlandBrew
Well-Known Member
recipie calcualtors?
http://tastybrew.com/calculators/recipe.html
http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/calculator
However these do not account for sucrose fermenting out 100% and lactose fermenting out 0%, but a little four function works fine for that.
Excel is also a great tool for recipe formulation. The flexibility of being able to fix the equations any way you see fit is wonderful.
I have used the brewersfriend calculator and now found that it is inaccurate when calculating FG....
Every calculator is going to be inaccurate with FG. First of all, it's tough to say what the fermentability of various specialty and crystal malts is, and second, they typically don't take into account the fermentability of any adjuncts like sugar or dextrins.
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