Help me come up with my 50th Birthday (or my Memorial) 5 year aged Barleywine recipe.

Yakima 728
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Actually I am going to be doing a mead at the same time. I'm thinking about doing the brochet. The burnt mead.

Later today I am going to start hashing a recipe together for this beer.
 
Here's my recipe. When you're ready to taste some just let me know. I know that you drive past my house every day on your way home from work, and I'd love to hang out for a bit. I'd really like to try and make it up, get ahold of me with the logistics. You know what all my gear looks like and your welcome to all of it. Only I'm not going to be able to haul my B.A.Brewstand all the way up there, I haven't perfected making it "long distance mobile" yet.

Batch Size: 5.25 gal
Boil Size: 7.85 gal
Estimated OG: 1.176 SG
Estimated Color: 23.5 SRM
Estimated IBU: 95.4 IBU

23 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 61.95 %
9 lbs Maris Otter (Crisp) (4.0 SRM) Grain 24.24 %
2 lbs Munich (Cargill) (9.5 SRM) Grain 5.39 %
12.0 oz Caramel Malt - 80L (Cargill) (80.0 SRM) Grain 2.02 %
6.0 oz Pale Chocolate (225.0 SRM) Grain 1.01 %
4.0 oz Special B Malt (180.0 SRM) Grain 0.67 %
2.00 oz Galena [13.00 %] (60 min) Hops 42.0 IBU
2.00 oz Nugget [12.00 %] (60 min) Hops 34.9 IBU
2.00 oz Cascade [7.40 %] (30 min) Hops 18.4 IBU
1.00 oz Cascade [7.40 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-SteepHops -
1.05 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
1 lbs 12.0 oz Sugar, Table (Sucrose) (1.0 SRM) Sugar 4.71 %
1 Pkgs California Ale V (White Labs #WLP051) [CulYeast-Ale
1 Pkgs Pasteur Champagne (Red Star #-) Yeast-Champag
 
Christmas Barley Wine
11 lbs wheat dme (at least)
1 lb light dme
48 oz Vermont maple syrup (medium amber)
24 oz piloncillo
4 oz carapils malt
8 oz 60L crystal malt
8 oz 40L crystal malt
4 oz caramel wheat malt
2 oz chocolate wheat malt
1 oz centennial leaf hops
1 oz cascade leaf hops
1 oz hallertauer pellets
Wyeast 1388 (Belgian strong ale), from a 1 qt starter
Cinnamon sticks, about 5 inches
Vanilla bean, split and insides scraped
Whole nutmeg, crushed
Whole allspice
Whole cloves

I steeped the grains the usual way; in 155 degree water (2 gallons) for 30 minutes and rinsed with a gallon of 150 degree water. Heat to boiling and add the syrup, piloncillo and malts. I added the centennial at the beginning, the Cascade at 20 min, and the Hallertauer at 50 min. The OG was 1.100. I put all the spices in the secondary. It fermented down to 1.034, and I had to make an additional Wyeast 1388 starter for it to finish down to 1.024. I bottled to 2 pkg of champagne yeast. I made this July '09, and it is just now tasting great. Unfortunately, I have only a 50 oz Grolsh left which I was saving for the holidays this year. It was originally a Christmas Ale, and it turned into barleywine; actually, I guess it's a Wheatwine? It's very good.
I wish you well. If you get down my way, I'll split it with you.
 
TerapinChef said:
Here's my recipe. When you're ready to taste some just let me know. I know that you drive past my house every day on your way home from work, and I'd love to hang out for a bit. I'd really like to try and make it up, get ahold of me with the logistics. You know what all my gear looks like and your welcome to all of it. Only I'm not going to be able to haul my B.A.Brewstand all the way up there, I haven't perfected making it "long distance mobile" yet.

Batch Size: 5.25 gal
Boil Size: 7.85 gal
Estimated OG: 1.176 SG
Estimated Color: 23.5 SRM
Estimated IBU: 95.4 IBU

23 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 61.95 %
9 lbs Maris Otter (Crisp) (4.0 SRM) Grain 24.24 %
2 lbs Munich (Cargill) (9.5 SRM) Grain 5.39 %
12.0 oz Caramel Malt - 80L (Cargill) (80.0 SRM) Grain 2.02 %
6.0 oz Pale Chocolate (225.0 SRM) Grain 1.01 %
4.0 oz Special B Malt (180.0 SRM) Grain 0.67 %
2.00 oz Galena [13.00 %] (60 min) Hops 42.0 IBU
2.00 oz Nugget [12.00 %] (60 min) Hops 34.9 IBU
2.00 oz Cascade [7.40 %] (30 min) Hops 18.4 IBU
1.00 oz Cascade [7.40 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-SteepHops -
1.05 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
1 lbs 12.0 oz Sugar, Table (Sucrose) (1.0 SRM) Sugar 4.71 %
1 Pkgs California Ale V (White Labs #WLP051) [CulYeast-Ale
1 Pkgs Pasteur Champagne (Red Star #-) Yeast-Champag
Click to expand...

I don't think I have ever seen an OG that high. I got to save this. Thanks.
 
Tell me if I am crazy here, but what I am working on right now has an og 150 and 150 ibus.....I figure there is a nice symmetry to the numbers, AND at 150 IBU, there might still be hop character in 5 years.

Avery's the beast Grand Cru has an og of 148...so this seems sort of fitting. Since this is going to be a beast of a beer.

One of my closest friends and brew buddies has some 30-40 year old nearly black honey. His father was a hobby bee keeper had more honey than he knew what to do with, so he'd hide it around his property. Everytime my friend heads down to visit his mother in Ohio (dad's been dead for over 20 years), he finds sealed buckets of this stuff. The stuff is so dark and so rich tasting. He adds it to some of his beers and it imparts a unique flavor.

I'm also thinking about using the new Briess Carabrown for sheer uniqueness. I've used a bit of it in another beer for color. But I'd be interested in using it here, if I can get some still in stock.

Briess releases Carabrown® Malt, second in a series of new seasonal malts
Written By: Press release sent to Michigan Beer Guide

Date: April 13, 2010
Contact: Bernadette Wasdovitch, Marketing Communications Manager
Phone: 920.849.7711
Email: [email protected]

CHILTON, WISCONSIN—A new seasonal malt is now available from Briess Malt & Ingredients Co. Carabrown® Malt is the second malt released by Briess in its new Maltster’s Reserve Series. The Maltster’s Reserve Series offers a different malt every season for the next season’s brews. Carabrown® Malt is available now through the middle of summer for your summer and fall seasonal beers. The Maltster’s Reserve Series is a permanent addition to the Briess product line.

Carabrown® Malt, 55º Lovibond, was developed on the light side of the brown malt style in order to retain some residual sweetness while still delivering an assortment of lightly toasted flavors ranging from toasted to biscuit to nutty to graham cracker. The overall character of Carabrown® Malt is an exceptionally smooth and clean tasting malt that begins with a slightly sweet malty flavor before delivering its payload of toasted flavors, then finishing clean and somewhat dry. It contributes light brown/orange colors.

For more information on Carabrown® Malt
BrewingWithBriess.com/Products/SeasonalMalts.htm.
Click to expand...

I'm still playing with the grainbill and the hopping schedule. I'm thinking of using Galena, or Magnum or Warrior for bittering, and cascades and centenniels for aroma/flavor.....

Based on some reading about barelywines, I am thinking of using a blend of two yeasts in the starter, something like a clean high grav yeast but with something else, maybe a belgian that would impart some spiciness along with it...not sure what yet, any suggestions?

I'm posting the rough grainbill below.
 
Here's a rough grainbill.....Estimated Original Gravity: 1.150 SG (1.080-1.120 SG)

Ingredients Amount Item Type % or IBU
18 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 66.30 %
3 lbs 6.4 oz Briess Carabrown® Malt (55.0 SRM) Grain 12.52 %
2 lbs 4.0 oz Victory Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 8.29 %
2 lbs Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 7.37 %
1 lbs 8.0 oz Dark Honey 5.52 %
 
Ok.....here's what I have....I dunno......Sounds waay too crazy with 13 ounces of hops.

Ingredients Amount Item Type % or IBU
18 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 66.30 %
3 lbs 6.4 oz Briess Carabrown® Malt (55.0 SRM) Grain 12.52 %
4 lbs 8.0 oz Victory Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 8.29 %

1 lbs 8.0 oz Dark Honey (1.0 SRM) Sugar 5.52 %

1.00 oz Galena [13.00 %] (First Wort Hop) Hops 15.3 IBU
1.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (First Wort Hop) Hops 6.5 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (First Wort Hop) Hops 11.7 IBU
3.00 oz Galena [13.00 %] (90 min) Hops 41.6 IBU
1.00 oz Warrior [15.00 %] (90 min) Hops 16.0 IBU
1.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (90 min) Hops 5.9 IBU
1.00 oz Warrior [15.00 %] (90 min) Hops 16.0 IBU
1.00 oz Warrior [15.00 %] (90 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 17.6 IBU
0.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (60 min) Hops 5.0 IBU
1.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (30 min) Hops 4.2 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (30 min) Hops 7.7 IBU
1.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (15 min) Hops 2.7 IBU


1 Pkgs American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056) [Starter 125 ml] Yeast-Ale
1 Pkgs Trappist Ale (White Labs #WLP500) [Starter 35 ml] Yeast-Ale

Beer Profile Estimated Original Gravity: 1.150 SG (1.080-1.120 SG)
Estimated Final Gravity: 1.034 SG (1.016-1.030 SG)
Estimated Color: 24.0 SRM (10.0-19.0 SRM)
Bitterness: 150.2 IBU (50.0-120.0 IBU)
Estimated Alcohol by Volume: 15.39 % (8.00-12.00 %) Actual Alcohol by Volume: 0.65 %


Mash Profile Name: Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge Mash Tun Weight: 32.00 lb
Mash Grain Weight: 25.65 lb Mash PH: 5.4 PH
Grain Temperature: 72.0 F Sparge Temperature: 168.0 F
 
wow Revvy that is a great idea. I say go for it and add your own twist with your inspiration.

You have to have a specific specialty grain or hop that you prefer that you may be able to sub in the 9-9-9 recipe for example.


Edit: saw your recipe, holy crap, go big or go home I guess
 
Revvy, do you think that 2lbs of MO is going to be noticeable in that grain bill? Just curious why you decided on that over just 20lb pale malt?
 
Naked_Eskimo said:
Revvy, do you think that 2lbs of MO is going to be noticeable in that grain bill? Just curious why you decided on that over just 20lb pale malt?
Click to expand...

That's why I am running up the flagpole to see what you all think.

My thought was that I wanted some breadiness to come through, but you are right, it may be lost.
 
I just upped the victory to 4.5 pounds. Which kept the gravity the same.

Ingredients Amount Item Type % or IBU
18 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 66.30 %
3 lbs 6.4 oz Briess Carabrown® Malt (55.0 SRM) Grain 12.52 %
4 lbs 8.0 oz Victory Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 8.29 %

1 lbs 8.0 oz Dark Honey (1.0 SRM) Sugar 5.52 %

1.00 oz Galena [13.00 %] (90 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 15.3 IBU
1.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (90 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 6.5 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (90 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 11.7 IBU
3.00 oz Galena [13.00 %] (90 min) Hops 41.6 IBU
1.00 oz Warrior [15.00 %] (90 min) Hops 16.0 IBU
1.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (90 min) Hops 5.9 IBU
1.00 oz Warrior [15.00 %] (90 min) Hops 16.0 IBU
1.00 oz Warrior [15.00 %] (90 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 17.6 IBU
0.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (60 min) Hops 5.0 IBU
1.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (30 min) Hops 4.2 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (30 min) Hops 7.7 IBU
1.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (15 min) Hops 2.7 IBU


1 Pkgs American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056) [Starter 125 ml] Yeast-Ale
1 Pkgs Trappist Ale (White Labs #WLP500) [Starter 35 ml] Yeast-Ale
Click to expand...
 
Check with Adventures. i have to go there later this week and I can pick it up if they have it.
 
Hate to interrupt but I have to ask....

Why 2 different types of Yeast? Is the plan to use one to start the the other to make the final push to final gravity? If someone could explain that would be great.

PS. I'm lovin this recipe.
 
Revvy said:
I just upped the victory to 4.5 pounds. Which kept the gravity the same.
Click to expand...

Revvy,

I personally think that's too much victory. I think ~2.5 lbs would be appropriate to get the "breadiness" you're looking for. Maybe add ~2 lbs of Munich to get a little more malt?
 
SAMPLER said:
Hate to interrupt but I have to ask....

Why 2 different types of Yeast? Is the plan to use one to start the the other to make the final push to final gravity? If someone could explain that would be great.

PS. I'm lovin this recipe.
Click to expand...

I said it up here...

Based on some reading about barelywines, I am thinking of using a blend of two yeasts in the starter, something like a clean high grav yeast but with something else, maybe a belgian that would impart some spiciness along with it...
Click to expand...

From this article.

http://***********/stories/beer-sty...beer-styles/172-barleywine-style-of-the-month

. However, there is no need to use a wine yeast if you choose a suitable beer yeast. Because barleywine finishes with a gravity of 1.024 to 1.032 and an alcohol content of 6.7 to 9.6 percent by weight and 8.5 to 12.2 percent by volume, you will want an atten*uative yeast (one that ferments wort thoroughly) with a high alcohol tolerance, such as Wyeast 1056 (American ale). Mixing yeast varieties often creates a more interesting beer.
Click to expand...

There some discussions of blended yeasts strains for barleywines in the northern brewer forum as well.
 
Revvy said:
So any predictions on the ibu perception in 5 years? Will it be drinkable or still a pucker?
Click to expand...

I doubt the hops will be the focus at all. You may get a note of bitterness, but IMO this will still be a malt-forward brew.

I also think that is too much victory (although the name of the malt is pretty ironic if you make it to 50). Something like 2lbs would be my max tolerance for it. Although, if you really like a bready taste, then your current recipe would work fine.

I also think you should probably add some sugar in here to thin this thing out, or else you may have a hell of a time getting the FG down...
 
DKershner said:
I doubt the hops will be the focus at all. You may get a note of bitterness, but IMO this will still be a malt-forward brew.

I also think that is too much victory (although the name of the malt is pretty ironic if you make it to 50). Something like 2lbs would be my max tolerance for it. Although, if you really like a bready taste, then your current recipe would work fine.

I also think you should probably add some sugar in here to thin this thing out, or else you may have a hell of a time getting the FG down...
Click to expand...

Good news!! I got three pounds of the Cara Brown, so all is not lost.:mug:

Part of the reason for using Victory IS for the name...plus I've used it in my brown ale. Though I may take everyone's suggestions and cut it back.

Don't you think the pound and a half of that special honey is enough of a simple sugar to help bring it down?
 
Revvy said:
Don't you think the pound and a half of that special honey is enough of a simple sugar to help bring it down?
Click to expand...

A few things here...

I don't like beers that remind me of maple syrup. DFH 120min is a good example of that. For this reason, I really try to dry the crap out of big beers which means a higher dose of the simple sugars.

Secondly, when working with the big boys, I really like staggered sugar additions to help fermentation along. The yeast seem to really like the simple sugars once that ABV starts getting into the 9-10% range and almost seem to need them as an appetizer to their maltose meal. I like to do staggered additions, I would probably do 3 or 4 in your recipes case.

I am by no means a big beer expert, but in my limited experience it has really seemed to help. EDIT: You may be able to pull off a similar effect by using jars of less concentrated wort. I know some guy on BYO did that in a 21% All Grain (No Sugar) Brew.
 
Well I had a very interesting and educational night with MustangJ and his brew buddy and beer judge Bill which gave me some unique insight and tips for brewing this monster. Especially a complex "yeast regimen" which should get the beer low AND get those complexities from the belgian yeast. Turns out playing with beersmith this is not too uncommon. I'll explain in a bit.

First. They tend to think that after 5 years that Breadiness, like the hoppiness will mellow out, so keeping it at that level is not an issue...though I'm thinking I might want some raisiny notes in it, so I might play with some special b, and reduce the victory, but I'm not sure.

Sugar is a must (as is yeast nutrient, energizer, and plenty of oxygen including the second blast in the first 12 hours after fermentation has begun.

Decocting a gallon or so isn't a bad idea during the mash. It will add some more depth.

Now to the very interesting yeasting schedule. (This is cool, and really a new concept for me, but it make sense.)

They recommend pitching a huge starter using two vials of the cali ale yeast, and as big of a starter as I can grow in the next few days.

Also on brew day reserve a half gallon of my wort til later.

Then a week into fermentation or after the krausen falls pitch another starter of the cali ale yeast. (1 0r wo tubes) This will help bring the beer down further.

THEN after about 2 weeks of this, when fermentation appears stalled to rack it to secondary and using that half gallon of reserved wort, make another starter this time with 2 vials of the trappist ale yeast. At this point I could actually let the temps drift up a little too. This will get me some of the esters and spiciness from the trappist yeast, and also hopefully get the last of the fermentable sugars.

They think I can get this puppy down even further than Beersmith says it will be.

There is a button on beersmith to indicate adding more yeast in secondary, which I never noticed before.

I'll probably want to rack it to a tertiary to get it off the final yeast to allow it to bulk age before I bottle it.

Pretty wild, eh?
 
For one, I think that the strategy you have laid out sounds clean and will definitely do the job and that the extra work you are putting in will pay dividends in the final beer.

Secondly, will that yeast starter schedule really help? I feel like it is similar to a stuck ferment...where you pitch a yeast starter and it does nothing, but then you dump it on a yeast cake and it goes down several more points. I just dont think the starters would have enough cells to actually do anything.

Also, I thought pitching more than one yeast was a recipe to have one completely dominate the other and only one of their flavors would end up in the final beer. I have never tried this myself, but have read that around here.
 
DKershner said:
Also, I thought pitching more than one yeast was a recipe to have one completely dominate the other and only one of their flavors would end up in the final beer. I have never tried this myself, but have read that around here.
Click to expand...

That's the point of not doing the two yeasts at the same time, it shouldn't cause one to dominate the other. Or in a sense the clean, cali ale yeast will do the job of fermenting the majority of the beer and the trappist later, will produce some esters and other complexities with any remaining sugars left over.
 
Revvy said:
That's the point of not doing the two yeasts at the same time, it shouldn't cause one to dominate the other. Or in a sense the clean, cali ale yeast will do the job of fermenting the majority of the beer and the trappist later, will produce some esters and other complexities with any remaining sugars left over.
Click to expand...

Seems like if the Cali yeast still has sugars around, they will still be around to beat up any belgians who enter their turf. You know those Californians...
 
DKershner said:
Seems like if the Cali yeast still has sugars around, they will still be around to beat up any belgians who enter their turf. You know those Californians...
Click to expand...

LOL.... Yeah, we'll see.

Though I have to say Hercule Poirot could swing a might cane on someone's toe. :D

poirot.jpg
 

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