DIY Custom Crown Caps!

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I apply the medium, then put the square 1"x1" paper right on the cap. Then I let it dry for little bit. After about 10 mins, I rub it off under water (hehe..) and it works, but the excess medium makes it look like crap. I got the paper from Staples. I think it was Epson matte presentation paper. Maybe I'll try it again...
 
Sorry for my bad english.

Hi Hokie, first, thank you for sharing this project. I was looking for a "professionnal" way to identify my bottles without the PITA of removing labels.

I tried your method with the same materials as you and it did'nt seem to work for me. I have the same media (Golden Matte), Heavy weight presentation paper, inkjet printer and normal crown caps. I tried to let the medium dry for 5 min, 10min, 30min, 1 hour and I always got the same result; when I start to rub the moist paper with my thumb it goes well but when I try to remove the last "stage" of paper, the ink leave the cap. I can see the logo under the last thin layer of paper but it don't seem to adhere to the cap. I'll try to take some pictures of it to show you.

Any idea what could be the problem ? I would really like to be able to something like you to my crown caps.

Thank you very much,
Northern

PS.: What printer are you using ?
 
If you're still around, Hokie, I'd love to see those pictures but it's saying your photobucket account is inactive again. (Also a few questions from others above if you have a few minutes!)
 
Let me give a big apology to everyone for not being more responsive!
I have been in Baghdad, Iraq for the past 6-7 months and I haven't had much of a chance to check out HBT... I've actually tried to avoid it to an extent because it kept reminding me of what I was missing back in the States. :(
A PM to my account finally brought this thread back to my attention once again.
I'm still in Baghdad, but I was able to log back into my photobucket account to show the images again in the thread...let me know if anyone is still having trouble seeing them.
Also, to address some people's concern about rubbing the image off of the cap when trying this method, I can try and explain what I do and the trouble I had starting out... First of all, the matte medium is applied in a *thin* layer. Before it dries, the piece of paper with the image on it needs to be pressed on. Essentially, the objective is to squeeze whatever excess matte medium is between the cap and the paper... yes some of the matte medium will build up around the "shoulder" (for lack of a better term) of the cap. Like I explain in my short tutorial, it needs to be scraped off once it's dry. Speaking of dried... I don't know exactly what is going on with every instance of people trying, but I kind of suspect folks aren't waiting long enough for the matte medium to dry. 5 minutes worked for me, but maybe because it was less humid in my area at that time of the year.
Also, a very light touch is absolutely necessary! It might be OK to be a little aggressive when initially rubbing off the paper under the running water, but as soon as you see the image appear, you almost want to hardly touch the paper in order to avoid scraping off the actual image. Essentially, it's only the paper's top coating that is left to protect the image underneath and it's definitely not tough as nails. You'll get the hang of it and it won't seem like such a chore after a few caps. If the image seems to melt away no matter what, then it's probably time to try a different type of paper...there is clearly nothing left to protect the matte medium from re-emulsifying once the paper has been rubbed away.
Another hint, don't let the image get too close to the edge (or shoulder as I've called it) of the cap, you'll almost certainly accidentally rub or chip away the image near that area trying to fix excess matte medium build-up or paper.
I'll check back periodically if you guys have any questions. I wish I could send some of you some sample of the paper I was using, but alas, it's all stored 7000 miles away from me right now.
Good luck, and like I said, I'll try and be a bit better about checking in on the thread for those of you that have any questions.
 
Let me give a big apology to everyone for not being more responsive!
I have been in Baghdad, Iraq for the past 6-7 months and I haven't had much of a chance to check out HBT...

*off topic*

A BIG THANK YOU for your Service!!!!:mug: Stay safe!
ps. thanks for this write up too!:rockin:
 
Hokie...great thread...will have to do this soon. I'd like to make xmas presents for friends(i know it's too early to think about christmas)...also does any one have any idea how to print underneath the top....similar to what magic hat does?

Also hokie thanks for what you are doing...my best friend is doing his second tour in iraq and my other good friend is in afghanistan...words cannot begin to describe my gratitude to the soldiers and our armed forces...god bless and good luck
 
Hokie...great thread...will have to do this soon. I'd like to make xmas presents for friends(i know it's too early to think about christmas)...also does any one have any idea how to print underneath the top....similar to what magic hat does?

Also hokie thanks for what you are doing...my best friend is doing his second tour in iraq and my other good friend is in afghanistan...words cannot begin to describe my gratitude to the soldiers and our armed forces...god bless and good luck

I believe that when they write under the cap, they are actually printing on the metal, and then the seal is added later, effectively preventing the liquid from contacting the writing. The seal is extremely thin in the center, and is nearly transparent.
 
Just finished some, they came out good.

185b68ddaa0d__1269364739000.jpeg
 
Just finished some, they came out good.

185b68ddaa0d__1269364739000.jpeg

Excellent job! I knew someone would be able to master it as well. I discovered that after a looong time, the lacquer I used would crack a lot when opening a bottle. It's probably worth experimenting with different kinds.

Sort of off-topic...has anyone ever procured copper-colored caps?...Like the occasional Dogfish Head caps. The picture above almost looked copperish and it made me wonder if they were available to the home brewer.
 
Excellent job! I knew someone would be able to master it as well. I discovered that after a looong time, the lacquer I used would crack a lot when opening a bottle. It's probably worth experimenting with different kinds.

Sort of off-topic...has anyone ever procured copper-colored caps?...Like the occasional Dogfish Head caps. The picture above almost looked copperish and it made me wonder if they were available to the home brewer.
Thanks, it took a little to get it down so the ink wouldn't rub off, but i think i got a system down now. Those above are SS oxy barrier caps, the lighting probably had a weird effect on the picture. But yeah, they came out awesome, i started doing about 10 at a time, and it takes about 10 minutes total per batch. So i usually just sit down and watch a hockey game and i can do a bunch then. Awesome write-up, it was very easy to follow, i just had to adjust different things to make them come out good (how much medium to apply, how long to wait, how hard to rub, etc.) and i eventually came out with the right process for me. :mug:
 
Hem ... It's the same paper I tried. I can't achieve a good result, everytime I scrap the paper, the ink come off with it. I'll try on a different brand of caps to see if it makes a difference...

Thank you for your answer,
Alex
 
Hem ... It's the same paper I tried. I can't achieve a good result, everytime I scrap the paper, the ink come off with it. I'll try on a different brand of caps to see if it makes a difference...

Thank you for your answer,
Alex
Could be a couple reasons, possibly you didn't print on the best setting to get enough ink, maybe you didn't use enough acrylic, possibly didn't rub hard enough. Or maybe you're rubbing to hard on the paper after you run it under water. If you rub too hard the paper particles will rub the acrylic off.
 
Could be a couple reasons, possibly you didn't print on the best setting to get enough ink, maybe you didn't use enough acrylic, possibly didn't rub hard enough. Or maybe you're rubbing to hard on the paper after you run it under water. If you rub too hard the paper particles will rub the acrylic off.

I agree with everything xjncoguyx just mentioned. I'm not sure if it wasn't described well enough in the original instructions (or the follow-ups), but you definitely do not "scratch" the paper away. It needs to be rubbed away with the pad of your thumb (or finger, whatever). When you think all of the paper is gone, check in the light to see if there is still any paper pulp still left clinging... if so, keep rubbing under the water until there is only a dull layer left.

Scratching is only helpful to remove excess matte medium buildup around the edges. If your image comes close to the edge, you obviously have to be very careful.

I have noticed that on colored caps, there is somewhat of a gloss...that may make it a bit more difficult for the image to stay put, but I haven't had too much of a problem.

Unfortunately, it's not an entirely mechanical process...it take a bit of a "touch" to find your right groove, but once you do, it's like riding a bike and you'll become much more efficient at it.
 
I agree with everything xjncoguyx just mentioned. I'm not sure if it wasn't described well enough in the original instructions (or the follow-ups), but you definitely do not "scratch" the paper away. It needs to be rubbed away with the pad of your thumb (or finger, whatever). When you think all of the paper is gone, check in the light to see if there is still any paper pulp still left clinging... if so, keep rubbing under the water until there is only a dull layer left.

Scratching is only helpful to remove excess matte medium buildup around the edges. If your image comes close to the edge, you obviously have to be very careful.

I have noticed that on colored caps, there is somewhat of a gloss...that may make it a bit more difficult for the image to stay put, but I haven't had too much of a problem.

Unfortunately, it's not an entirely mechanical process...it take a bit of a "touch" to find your right groove, but once you do, it's like riding a bike and you'll become much more efficient at it.
At first i couldn't tell if any paper was left because the matte finish leaves sort of a haze. But when you go to lacquer it usually clears the haze up pretty well. I've done about 40 of em so far for my upcoming batch, nice little project to do while watching a hockey game. :rockin: Although it is time consuming, i was contemplating getting a customized rubber stamp and possibly trying that method with some permanent ink. If i end up going that route i'll be sure to make a thread about it.
 
At first i couldn't tell if any paper was left because the matte finish leaves sort of a haze. But when you go to lacquer it usually clears the haze up pretty well. I've done about 40 of em so far for my upcoming batch, nice little project to do while watching a hockey game. :rockin: Although it is time consuming, i was contemplating getting a customized rubber stamp and possibly trying that method with some permanent ink. If i end up going that route i'll be sure to make a thread about it.

Ha, I think I may be a couple steps ahead of you there...while you may have better luck, I have tried both the custom stamp and the silk-screening methods before this one.

While the online source for the custom stamps was a breeze and reasonably priced, I had a few issues:
- Most caps are not perfectly flat on top which means you either have to rock the stamp around or press harder. Both leave the ink smudged from the movement or the rubber deforming (especially with finer details)
- Permanent stamping ink (at least the kind I tried) needs to be heat set when used on metal... I can't imagine it would be good for the seal underneath.
- Even when ignoring the potential heating issue, the ink never really set very well. Rubbing or light scraping would easily remove or smudge the ink (especially on colored caps).
- Properly centering the stamps was a nightmare...it was most evident on one of my designs that has a large circle incorporated into the design.

Those were just a few of the issues with stamping for me...but YMMV.

Screen printing was another headache. I admit, I didn't have the best of equipment required to do the printing, but what I did do indicated I'd be pretty disappointed again. I made a template that could hold the caps, I made a frame for the screen, bought screen printing ink for metal, made the screen, etc. When it was all said and done, the cap holding template was misaligned with the screen...ughh. Then when I tried printing anyway, I had issues with the ink seeping into areas it wasn't supposed to be and the thread pattern ended up in the ink left on the cap. Also, the ink required heat setting...which I discussed above.
All of these problems could probably be remedied with more precision, more practice, better materials, etc, etc...but I was just getting impatient and it was costing more and more money.

Assuming both of those methods worked flawlessly, you are also limited to one color...multi-colored printing with either method would require mechanical precision...but hey, maybe the handmade look is what some people may go for, in that case, more power to ya.

Personally, I think silk screening would be a great option if all of the issues I described were dialed in better and there was a fool-proof ink available. Stamping just ended up being way too rough around the edges to become a feasible option to me.

I'm still looking into alternative options...ones that require less finesse and could be applied quicker. I'll let you all know what I come up with...if I ever do..haha
 
Ha, I think I may be a couple steps ahead of you there...while you may have better luck, I have tried both the custom stamp and the silk-screening methods before this one.

While the online source for the custom stamps was a breeze and reasonably priced, I had a few issues:
- Most caps are not perfectly flat on top which means you either have to rock the stamp around or press harder. Both leave the ink smudged from the movement or the rubber deforming (especially with finer details)
- Permanent stamping ink (at least the kind I tried) needs to be heat set when used on metal... I can't imagine it would be good for the seal underneath.
- Even when ignoring the potential heating issue, the ink never really set very well. Rubbing or light scraping would easily remove or smudge the ink (especially on colored caps).
- Properly centering the stamps was a nightmare...it was most evident on one of my designs that has a large circle incorporated into the design.

Those were just a few of the issues with stamping for me...but YMMV.

Screen printing was another headache. I admit, I didn't have the best of equipment required to do the printing, but what I did do indicated I'd be pretty disappointed again. I made a template that could hold the caps, I made a frame for the screen, bought screen printing ink for metal, made the screen, etc. When it was all said and done, the cap holding template was misaligned with the screen...ughh. Then when I tried printing anyway, I had issues with the ink seeping into areas it wasn't supposed to be and the thread pattern ended up in the ink left on the cap. Also, the ink required heat setting...which I discussed above.
All of these problems could probably be remedied with more precision, more practice, better materials, etc, etc...but I was just getting impatient and it was costing more and more money.

Assuming both of those methods worked flawlessly, you are also limited to one color...multi-colored printing with either method would require mechanical precision...but hey, maybe the handmade look is what some people may go for, in that case, more power to ya.

Personally, I think silk screening would be a great option if all of the issues I described were dialed in better and there was a fool-proof ink available. Stamping just ended up being way too rough around the edges to become a feasible option to me.

I'm still looking into alternative options...ones that require less finesse and could be applied quicker. I'll let you all know what I come up with...if I ever do..haha
Gotcha, alright thanks :rockin:
 
so before i read the whole thread i wanted to see if anyone could answer my question quickly.

do you need to quickly cut and transfer the image after printing or can it be done over a couple of hours/days? IE you print out a sheet of like 24 images and you do 12 today and 12 tomorrow will there be a difference?
 
so before i read the whole thread i wanted to see if anyone could answer my question quickly.

do you need to quickly cut and transfer the image after printing or can it be done over a couple of hours/days? IE you print out a sheet of like 24 images and you do 12 today and 12 tomorrow will there be a difference?

Once the image is printed, you can wait as long as you want to transfer. It's not like a stamp or anything where you need wet ink to transfer from one medium to the other. It is pretty much gluing down the image to the cap, and then the paper is rubbed away leaving only the slightest remnants necessary to keep a visible image.

The only thing I've noticed that may need some attention to time is the period between lacquering the cap and capping the bottles. Depending on the type of lacquer, it may get too hard and show slight cracks when the cap is crimped onto the bottle... YMMV
 
Very nice work!!! However, I might have the same problem as most other guys...when I scrap the paper off...ink is coming off as well.

Q1: Is it normal that some of the "Golden" remains around the transfered picture?

Q2: Could anyone make a small video?

regards,
Max
 
Very nice work!!! However, I might have the same problem as most other guys...when I scrap the paper off...ink is coming off as well.

Q1: Is it normal that some of the "Golden" remains around the transfered picture?

Q2: Could anyone make a small video?

regards,
Max

There are a few things that need to be done properly to make sure the image is transfered properly.

- First, the medium needs to be applied in a thin, full coverage coat (pretty obvious, but I feel like I need to say it for the sake of completeness). Once the image is applied, the paper needs to be burnished/rubbed firmly across the entire surface, essentially sqeezing out any excess medium. Let dry for 10-15 minutes (I've been able to wait as little as five).
- Second, the type of paper may have have an impact on the effectiveness of the procedure. The matte presentation paper may work best because of the fine coating they apply to the paper to enhance the quality... that coating is what I think may prevent the image from being rubbed away once it's "glued" to the cap.... which brings be to my next point....
- The paper has to be lightly RUBBED away under water, not sraped. I scrape at the paper when I want to get rid of the image and start over.
- Depending on how heavily you applied the matte medium in the first step, there may be some buildup around the shoulder of the cap. You can scrape that away as long as it's not touching part of the image.

Unfortunately, the process is somewhat of an art until you get a feel for it. After that, caps can be made by the dozen in no time. I'll see what I can do about getting a video put together, but don't count on it in the immediate future. I've had to move around a lot in the past couple years and finding the materials may be a bit daunting.
 
Ok, while at Wally world last night I looked for some matte stuff in the craft section. Without knowing what I was looking for exactly. They had some stuff that was for fixing puzzles and sealing or whatever. I believe you mixed it with water and spread it on puzzles to make them permanent. Is this the same stuff?? The only other stuff was matte paint I think. They didn't have that brand.


I've used the Walmart modge podge brand matte medium in my paintings and it seems the same. Used this same technique in my paintings.
 
The images are not showing up here has something happened to them?

Which images in particular? I am able to see all of the ones I've looked for so far. I could be overlooking something, so I might be able to track down the ones you need with a bit more detail.
 
All of the ones in the how to on page two and the image in your first post...I am at work right now so I don't know if its work computer or not.

R
 
I'm going to be brewing a batch of Yuri_Rage's "Thunderstruck" Pumpkin Ale soon to bring to Thanksgiving Dinner and am considering using this method for showing off homebrew to my family. I'll try to photograph the process and results. Thanks, Hokie, for the idea!
 
Dumb question I know, but is the lacquer the same thing as the matte medium?

Not dumb at all! Think of the matte medium as the glue and the lacquer as the finishing gloss coat. The matte medium is applied with a brush and the lacquer as a spray.

Instead of matte medium, many craft stores (pretty much all of them) sell something called "Mod Podge". You can use that too. Probably cheaper as well.

Let me know if you have any other questions!
 
Thanks. I am bottling next weekend so I may try to rush and get the supplies for this. If I do this on Monday or Tuesday, do you think that's too soon to lacquer and it may crack when capping? Can I just imprint the logos and then wait until Friday to lacquer? Just curious of what's enough time to dry vs too long that may cause cracking. Also, when lacquering, do you do that outside?
 
Here is the second attempt on my first cap. The first time I don't think I burnished good because some of the logo wasn't on the cap and I don't think I scratched it off. I think I may have had too much matte medium on this one because I can see a layer of white on part and it is magnified in the picture. Pretty sure I rubbed off all I can without rubbing off the logo. I am pleased enough that I'm going to keep trying to make some. This one is for my Vanilla Pecan Porter. This is before lacquering so I expect it to look better after I do that, but I just needed to test out this part before spending money on the lacquer.

Hokies,would you say it's better to just have a thin layer of matte medium and not to make it too thick? I think I put more on just to try to make sure I covered it and captured the whole image, but maybe it's not necessary.
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I use bottlemark.com

It's actually pretty easy and I'm not good with a computer they have videos on YouTube that help u design cool caps !

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Awesome Thread!
Even better coming from a fellow Hokie!!

I have a Tripel in long Secondary that I plan to bottle in 750ml corked bottles for xmas gifts. It bugged me that with most corked bottles you buy the brewery has the first letter or some symbol on the cap part of the wire cage. I figured that my wire cages were going to be plain. Not now! I have HP Glossy presentation paper so that is what I used.

I'm also including some pictures of another way to easily mark your caps that is unique and noticed by everyone trying my beers. In this thread someone had mentioned about using stamps. Stamping ink does not work but craft acrylic paint and rubber stamps work pretty well. Not all of the stamps come out perfect but it is very easy and helps me identify beers quickly. Plus I don't mind as much taking my daughter to Hobby Lobby or Michaels for her to get more Rainbow Loom supplies since I can check out the stamp aisle for something new. The beer bottle stamp I actually got from ETSY.com. I have bought a few stamps from ETSY.com. I put the paint on the sponge. Work the paint in the sponge then stamp the sponge, stamp the cap.

Finally, there is actually a special paper made by this company http://www.tilano.net/imaging-paper
I used this paper making marble coasters. You print on the paper reverse image with a laser printer. The "glue" that came with the kit is probably the exact same as matte medium. Once you have "glued" the paper to the surface you wet the paper and then peel off the paper leaving the image. If it works on marble stone it should work well on bottle caps or bottles. For the coasters I had Staples do the laser printing. The paper is pretty pricey but it is designed to do what Hokie is doing with presentation paper.

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Coaster.jpg
 
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