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jasonsbeer

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Location
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Just had to share...

The parts for my RIMS tube showed up today from Murray Equipment. :ban:
This is a lot bigger than I had imagined it, which makes it even more awesome! Its all 1 1/2" stainless. I was going to put it together but I only had 3" of teflon tape left on my spool.

I just bought an electrical enclosure on e-bay and have been collecting other misc parts this fall. I still need to order parts from Auber, McMaster, and Mouser.

RIMS_Tube1.JPG
 
You're on your way!
I had great luck with my RIMS in a tool box. I used the same SS pieces from Murray.
 
I know I've seen this in another thread a while back but couldn't find it again - can you point me to or post your parts list?
 
I made my order to Murray today. Tomorrow I order the PID, SSR, Heat Sink, and RTD from Auber. My project box is an ammo box. Switches will be from the Shack.
 
That was bushings and everything. Did you buy the 2" pipe?

I bought the 8" pipe. My heating element is about 11" long. Also changed out one of the tees for a cross so I can drain it easily - and got a couple of nylon barbed hose nipples.

Item # Description Qty Price
S4C ROS11/2 1 1/2" CROSS 304SS 1 $15.00
S4T 11/2 1 1/2" TEE 304SS 1 $10.55
S4B 1X1/4 1" X 1/4" HEX BUSHING 304SS 1 $2.15
S4B 11/2X1/2 1 1/2" X 1/2" HEX BUSHING 304SS 3 $4.60
S4B 11/2X1 1 1/2" X 1" HEX BUSHING 304SS 2 $4.60
S4N 11/2X8 1 1/2" X 8" SCH40 NIP 304SS 1 $14.48
DIX TN34 NYLON 3/8"HOSE X 1/2"NPT 2 $0.50
MEI WEBDISC ONLINE ORDER DISCOUNT 1 $(1.32)
Subtotal $64.86

(while I spent some time spacing out this information, the forum seems to have removed some of my white space making this information difficult to read)
 
New parts continue to roll in. Here's the order from McMaster

There are DIN rail terminal blocks and 1" SS lock nuts. I also received an assortment of 60 10mm LEDs ordered off e-bay. These things are huge and bright. They should make good status indicators. Also not shown: end caps and bridges for the terminal blocks and 10mm LED panel bezels.

electric_mcmaster.JPG
 
Looks like FedEx ground is putting in the OT on Saturday. They just dropped off my order of breakers and DIN rail from Automation direct.

AutomationDirectParts.JPG
 
I bought the 8" pipe. My heating element is about 11" long. Also changed out one of the tees for a cross so I can drain it easily - and got a couple of nylon barbed hose nipples.

I like the idea of putting a cross on one end for cleaning/drying purposes. I'm putting quick disconnects on mine instead of straight hose barbs. I don't plan on mounting it permanently to my brew stand. Rather, I thought I would build a little stand for it to rest in while in use. After using it, I can disconnect it and turn it upside down to drain and dry.
 
jasonbeer - how long did it take to get your order from Murray?

FYI, my order sat there for two weeks without action (backordered items it turned out). An email got it going again w/o the backordered items.
 
I've made some progress with my build. There's not a lot here that hasn't been discussed in other threads, but I thought I would share. Thanks to everyone's sage-like information!

I ordered a 24"x18"x6" electrical enclosure on e-bay. I thought it would be way too huge, but I'm happy with the size. There's plenty of room to place components and even room left for future expansion.

elec_controller1.JPG


At the top, there's a cooling fan. Below that on the DIN rail are a set of 30 amp distribution blocks for AC and a set for DC on the right. Breakers are on the far right. Just below the breakers are two 30 amp power relays. These select either HLT/Mash or BK mode. Below those are a transformer to power the cooling fan and PWM and a 40 amp SSR for the BK. Below those you can see the PWM.

On the left side below the DIN rail is a 3 fuse block (PID x 2, transformer). Below that, floating in mid-air, are two switches to control 110V AC power for a pump and an auxiliary item such as an HLT stirrer. Below those are a 40 amp SSR (HLT) and a 25 amp SSR (RIMS). You can see misc cables hanging over the edges. These are for front panel controls.

elec_controller2.JPG


The bottom of the box, starting on the left, has a 15 amp duplex receptacle for the before mentioned pump and auxiliary item. Next is a 20 amp 220V receptacle for the HLT. The thermocouple connects to the RCA jack immediately above the receptacle. Next is another 20 amp 220V receptacle for the RIMS tube. Again, an RCA jack for the thermocouple. Lastly, there's a 30 amp 220V receptacle for the BK.

Next job: the front panel with indicators and all!
 
Jasonsbeer, any update on your build? I've finished my controller build and am now focusing on completing the RIMS Tube build. It should only take another day. Then testing...
 
Jasonsbeer, any update on your build? I've finished my controller build and am now focusing on completing the RIMS Tube build. It should only take another day. Then testing...

I finished the panel front and installed one of two PIDs. I hooked it up to 220 and tested the indicator lights, receptacles, and the PID that is in there. All looks good. SWMBO is getting me the other PID for Christmas, so I need to wait a few days for that.

I assembled the RIMS tube, minus the heating element. I had planned on having a new 3000 watt heating element for the HLT and a 1500 watt element for the RIMS tube, but SWMBO told me to hold off because Christmas was adding up to be a bit more than planned. The final hook up and test run will need to wait until after the holidays.

Glad to hear your's is coming together! My first brew through the new system is going to be a Newcastle clone. One problem I've had in the past is temp control in the mash. I think this new system should help provide more consistent results and help me tune in my mash temps.

Any pics of your system?
 
Here's what I have so far. These pics are hosted on photoBucket and I guess they limit their size, so here's the link:

http://s160.photobucket.com/albums/t172/StLBeer/Brewing and Serving/RIMS/

Here are the pictures:

Controller at end of autotune. Sweet!
PICT3950.jpg


Here's a blurry image, but you get the idea. The power input is on the backside of the controller.
PICT3947.jpg


RIMS Tube just before I completed it. Added since this picture was taken I've added a 1/2" brass valve for the cross, and I potted the connections to the element
IMG00008-20101216-0929.jpg
PICT3946.jpg
PICT3944.jpg


Here is the temp graph from the test I ran today. Once I reached mash temps I got about 7*F every 5 minutes. Not bad and since I am using propane for strike and sparge water, I just need to maintain temps. The spike is due to a valve being closed about 1/2 way on the pump output - otherwise the pump was running wide open. The drop in the spike is where I opened the valve completely.
TempGraph.jpg


After seeing your pictures, my build is a lot simpler, but then again - I'm only using 120V.
 
Nice build! I like the ammo box. It's cool when people can recycle stuff.

Are you using a 1500 watt element in your tube?
 
Nice build! I like the ammo box. It's cool when people can recycle stuff.

Are you using a 1500 watt element in your tube?

I've had that ammo box for 30 years. The last time it was used my son used it to carry his pinewood derby car and parts in. :)

I'm actually using a 5500W/220V Low Density element, but I'm running it at 120V - about 1375W. No danger of scorching the wort with this thing . It's made of Incoloy - some type of stainless.

I bought some 1 1/2" muffler clamps so I'll mount the tube and see how it performs over the weekend. It sure will be nice to be able to hold my mash temps and get a much clearer wort!

The next step is to build a brew stand. For my space/situation I like a pyramid style rig. After building this though, I have to say that I'm questioning whether I want to stay with a propane fired HLT and BK or go with an electric HLT and BK. Can you say "Merry Christmas"? I knew you could!
 
I finished getting my control box put together and tuned the PIDS about 3 weeks ago. I used a 3000 watt element to my HLT and a 1500 watt element in the RIMS tube. I think it turned out real well. I used some "cheaper" components, meaning this setup cost a bit less than similar ones posted. For example, I used the SYL-1512A PIDS from Auber, 20 amp 220V receptacles when possible, "regular" toggle switches instead of the large selector switches, and RCA jacks instead of XLR connectors. I made my own AC powered LED indicators and the SSRs all came on the slow boat from China. I splurged where it made sense, like the additional breakers and fuses to protect devices.

I'll be adding a 4500 watt element to my boil kettle after I've used up some more propane. My camera crapped out, so I'll see if I can get a photo of the rig in action the next time I use it.

Unfortunately, I haven't brewed any batches with it yet. We went way over budget for Christmas and then my middle son ended up in the ER. My funds should recover in the next 2-3 weeks and I'll think about brewing at that time.
 
Thanks for the update. I'm in the process of putting one together. I've also tried to cut costs by not buying fancy swithces and such and ordered ssr and heatsink from china, etc. Just wanted to see how yours turned out due to the fact that when i started piecing mine together, I was kinda looking at yours! anyhow sorry to hear about your son, hope all is well. Would love to see pics if you get the chance!

Alan
 
Will do. Just let me know if you're interested in any part numbers. A lot of the components came from Mouser, the breakers from Automation direct, and the receptacles and plugs came from the local farm store (cheaper than the "big box" hardware stores). I had all the cable I needed from previous home improvement projects.

I made my own thermo wells for the thermocouples with 1/4" copper tubing. The thermocouples also came from China. Those are here.

Happy brewing!
 
I know this thread hasn't been updated in a year, but I noticed you are using the SYL-1512A PIDs. How do you like like them? Do you have any photos showing the front of your panel? Nice wiring job on the inside.
 
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