Keggle insulation

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I just finished welding up a new keggle mash tun for a rims system. I would like to put some type of insulation on the keggle. What insulation do you use?
 
If you're seeking a higher R factor and higher temperature stability (220+), you may consider purchasing closed cell foam insulation. I believe Reflectix is only rated to 170F.

Wrap this foam insulation around ducts and large diameter pipes—it's moisture resistant and extremely flexible and soft. Insulation is made of closed-cell elastomeric Buna-N/PVC foam. Cut with a knife. Meets ASTM E84 25/50 for flame and smoke. Size is 36" x 48", unless noted.

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Even the closed cell foam is only rated to 220* F. What if you used fiberglass, such as for duct insulation which is lined with alum. foil on one side - cut it to size, then spray it lightly with high-temp. (1200*) paint to hold the fiberglass in place, then totally wrap this in heavy duty aluminum foil and seal up with aluminum HVAC tape? Wouldn't that be able to handle higher temperatures? I'd think that the paint to stick down the fiberglass, plus totally encasing it in alum foil, would pretty much eliminate the chance of getting any fiberglass in your brew?
 
lamarguy, did you get the adhesive backed stuff? If so, how well does the glue hold up? I don't have any problems with the reflectix other than it got brushed with a torch.... So if I replace it I would like something with a higher R factor for better efficiency.. But the reflectix does work much better than nothing. I think 2 layers with no air gap is rated at R5.
 
Correct, we're not talking about an open flame. ;)

Even without an open flame, I can see the temp. around the bottom getting higher than 220* F. I do my boils on my electric stove and I'm looking for a way to insulate my brew pot (also going to build a heat stick). I know that the air coming up around the bottom of the pot with the burner on high is more than 220*, which is why I'm looking for a high temp insulation.
 
Well yeah, if your tun is close to your boil kettle, that's a factor. If you can get away with closed cell foam, that's likely the most user friendly and durable insulation.
 
Even the closed cell foam is only rated to 220* F. What if you used fiberglass, such as for duct insulation which is lined with alum. foil on one side - cut it to size, then spray it lightly with high-temp. (1200*) paint to hold the fiberglass in place, then totally wrap this in heavy duty aluminum foil and seal up with aluminum HVAC tape? Wouldn't that be able to handle higher temperatures? I'd think that the paint to stick down the fiberglass, plus totally encasing it in alum foil, would pretty much eliminate the chance of getting any fiberglass in your brew?

If (if) you get wort into the insulation, it is a big mess and has to be removed and thrown away. [ Been there. ]
 
If (if) you get wort into the insulation, it is a big mess and has to be removed and thrown away. [ Been there. ]

Well, that's why I was going to wrap it watertight in alum. foil. Actually, I don't know if I'm going to do this or not - I have some fiberglass duct insulation already - I'm going to get some paint and spray some insulation and see if I think that will hold the fiberglass in place well enough to prevent any possibility of loose fiberglass - if not, maybe I'll have to try the closed cell foam and just hope it doesn't melt.
 
lamarguy, did you get the adhesive backed stuff? If so, how well does the glue hold up?

I got the 1/2" thick non-adhesive version (afraid it would fail over time and leave a sticky mess). I bought a 50' roll of 2" velcro to secure the insulation around the tun. Three sheets insulated the top, bottom, and sides of my three 15 gallon tuns, so one sheet per 15 gallon tun.

It's the same soft foam insulation used to insulate A/C lines. Super easy to work with and an excellent R factor.
 
Ok, I got a sheet of the 1" black close cell foam from a friend of mine. Will 3m spray glue (I have) be enough to hold it on the keg or would a velcro set up like lamarguy discribed be better? The tun heat will not be over 175 degrees.
 
Personally, I'd try gluing something to an old throwaway container with that adhesive and put some 180F water into it to see if the glue gets soft. I'd hate to have a whole keg coated with that crap if it has a temp failure.
 
I like the idea of the closed cell insulate but I have a question for the direct fire Reflectix users.

Do you keep the Reflectix on the MT while your heating the water or do you slip / wrap once doghed in?
 
So in all of this, has anyone found a material or solution for a insulating material that can be used on your keggle if it is on open flame? or that can be used on your boil Keggle, so something that withstands 250+ degrees
 
If you're seeking a higher R factor and higher temperature stability (220+), you may consider purchasing closed cell foam insulation. I believe Reflectix is only rated to 170F.



9349k611p1l.gif

Good job on finding this product, I have ordered the 1/4 thickness and will wrap my pot with two layers. I have been thinking that I might put a layer of heavy duty foil between the two layers of foam. Does anybody have an opinion on this strategy?

GW
 
I have 3 layers of reflectix on my BK/HLT. Works great except when i go to use my IC. Takes forever to chill. That foam rubber stuff might be the trick,if i was careful i could probably cut it to be removable, so once the boils done i could chill faster.
 
Good job on finding this product, I have ordered the 1/4 thickness and will wrap my pot with two layers. I have been thinking that I might put a layer of heavy duty foil between the two layers of foam. Does anybody have an opinion on this strategy?

GW

I purchased this product from McMaster Carr and have used it on the last two brews. It seems to insulate very well, however it is quite fragile and tears easily when removing the insulation from the pot to chill the wort in an ice bath. Any little dribbles of wort down the outside of the pot fuses the insulation to the pot making it virtually impossible to remove the insulation with out ripping or tearing out chunks from where the insulation contacts the pot. If you are using a wort chiller then you can just leave the insulation on the pot and avoid this.

GW
 
I read on another post at HBT about the Keg Koozy as mash tun insulation. I got one for my eHerms mash tun setup and have had no complaints. Helps maintain the temperature and is easy to clean with a hose if you spill wort on it. I used a razor to cut holes for the sight glass, ball valve, and thermometer.
http://thekegkoozy.com/mash-tun-insulation
 
I read on another post at HBT about the Keg Koozy as mash tun insulation. I got one for my eHerms mash tun setup and have had no complaints. Helps maintain the temperature and is easy to clean with a hose if you spill wort on it. I used a razor to cut holes for the sight glass, ball valve, and thermometer.
http://thekegkoozy.com/mash-tun-insulation

I'd bet good money it won't hold up on a direct fired one. Cool idea though.
 
I read a thread on here some where about guys using Carbon fiber welders blanket as insulation for there MT's. You could most deffinately use it on your HLT and your BK. Although it is kinda expensive. Please forgive me for asking but why would you want to insulate your boil kettle? N/M on that last question..
 
Anybody have any experience with pre-formed fiberglass pipe insulation? This outfit has some pre-sized for 16"dia pipe, 1" thick, rated to 1000degF, with a foil outer insulation. http://www.amerisafe.net/en/Fiberglass-Pipe-Insulation/FIBERGLASS-PIPE-INSULATION-12-X-12-KNAUF-ASJ-SSL-/10000_Group.aspx

I'm thinking of cutting it to the right length (top of the keggle), spooge the top of it with RTV like Bobby's approach, and it should take only minutes.

Trouble is, it comes in boxes of two for about $75+shipping. Anybody in the San Diego area interested in splitting?
 
Anybody have any experience with pre-formed fiberglass pipe insulation? This outfit has some pre-sized for 16"dia pipe, 1" thick, rated to 1000degF, with a foil outer insulation. http://www.amerisafe.net/en/Fiberglass-Pipe-Insulation/FIBERGLASS-PIPE-INSULATION-12-X-12-KNAUF-ASJ-SSL-/10000_Group.aspx

I'm thinking of cutting it to the right length (top of the keggle), spooge the top of it with RTV like Bobby's approach, and it should take only minutes.

Trouble is, it comes in boxes of two for about $75+shipping. Anybody in the San Diego area interested in splitting?

That seems like it would hold temps like crazy!
I was thinking of going the really cheap route with something like http://www.rubberflooringinc.com/all-rolls.html
 
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