Cutting the top off your keg. This is the easiest way!

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threeporks

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I really appreciate all the helpful tips I've learned along the way. This site has proven to be a very valuable tool during my brewery build. I just want to return the favor and attach my video of how to cut off the top of a keg. I really do believe this is the easiest way I've found.

 
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Great job with the video. Removing the retaining ring and spear aren't obvious, so this was a great tutorial.

I've never been to a Menards, in fact I've never seen one. You guys always mention it like it's a national chain. Lowe's / HD I guess.

Freehanding it is fine, but I see 3 kegs. Might be easier to make a simple jig. I made one (very simple!) that ensures that the holes on ALL the kegs are identical. Just a thought. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/simplest-keggle-cutting-jig-143048/

Nice deck. I like those pavers.
 
easy is relative, lol

I cut my first keg top using a plasma cutter that I no longer have access to, but that was EASY... Puts little water in it to cool the slag before it sticks, a piece of wire as a quick jig and one time around in 15 seconds and it's done... A little work with a floppy sanding wheel and it's pretty.

But for easy and what we all can do... Make a quick jig like you can find on this forum. Easy, consistent, pretty clean... I think way easier than freehanding it. And the big is easy to make...
 
I hose-clamped a pvc pipe to the back of the grinder with a piece of wood in between them to get proper diameter. From there I just dropped the PVC pipe into the original keg opening and made several passes around the keg. The flapper wheel took some getting used to. I kept sharpening the underside while smoothing the top of the cut, and vice versa. I had to make round swoops inside and out of the cut, like rotating the grinder from outside the keg to inside in order to get a nice rounded edge. Now it's smooth.

All of the stainless grit on the floor, wall, and me was less...smooth. Leave space around the keg or you'll have an angry wife.
 
It doesn't need to be polarizing... But when the word 'easiest' is used... Well, them's fightin words! :D
 
Thanks for the feedback.

I tried the jig method on my first keg and it ended up plunging deep in a couple areas causing a misaligned cut. Not to mention when it did this, my stupid c-clamp unhooked from the support and the grinder flew off and hit me in the gut. I have no doubt when installed correctly, the jig method would be great. I guess I wasn't smart enough to figure it out.

I must say though, I've cut over 15 Kegs with the method in the video and each and every hole is identical. I should mention I'm a hardscape landscaper by trade so I do a lot of cutting so maybe this subset of skills is paying off.

Great jig tutorial passeddawn!
 
the only other thing i would add is that I now put a few gallons of water in when im cutting kegs. It really cuts down on the noise.

+1 to that.
I cut my first one free hand and the next four or five I did I made a jig with simply a piece of PVC that I notched out and tie wrapped to the grinder handle in the right spot, set the PVC in the spar hole and a couple times around with almost no pressure on the grinder, just letting it lightly score the keg each pass and done. What I like about the "jig" is I don't have to worry about watching where I'm cutting.
 
I'd like to submit my suggestion for the easiest way to cut a keg. I found it on a HBT thread, but I can't find it now.

I drew a line with a sharpie along the outside of the keg at the upper weld line. Using an angle grinder, I simply cut horizontally around the keg. It was easy to freehand this - no jig. I put some water into the keg to dampen the noise. Then I used one of those flapper wheels to smoothen the edges.

What I'm left with is a kettle/keggle with a completely open top - no ledge inside to catch stuff.

I wanted to do the more complicated cut where I would cut along the weld line, but leave the handles. On the advice of another HBTer, I purchased a couple gate handles, 4 SS bolts, rubber washers, and locknuts in order to attach a pair of handles near the top.

Respectfully submitted,
Keith
 
Hey Keith,

That's an interesting idea. Can you submit a picture of that? I'm curious what that would look like.

Personally I like the 11.75 inch diameter so I can use a 12inch lid but I'm always open to trying new things.
 
I don't know about easiest.....

My plasma cutter took all of about 15 seconds to cut the top off, and left a nice straight edge, as the rim of the keg makes a great guide for the cutter. :)
 
@rob, you're right, the absolute easiest method is with a plasma, but since most of us don't have access to one, the grinder/cutoff wheel on a jig is easiest and most approachable for the normal Joe...

@rekoob, ahhh, I see the problem. Often unmentioned is the step of doing light passes until you break through and hold firmly so you don't plunge through.

I've done freehand, and even with some skill using a grinder (can't hardly weld without grinding... :D ) I had it jump around quite a bit more than while using a jig.
 
Hey Keith,

That's an interesting idea. Can you submit a picture of that? I'm curious what that would look like.

Personally I like the 11.75 inch diameter so I can use a 12inch lid but I'm always open to trying new things.

I'm going to try my luck at posting pictures. Here's my keg before cutting. I drew the line around the outside just where the collar is welded.
IMG_1343.jpg


Here's the keg after cutting the top off:
IMG_1344.jpg


Here's looking down into it after cutting:
IMG_1345.jpg


I have not installed the handles yet.

Even tho the keg has lots of dents, I decided to try to polish it up following the directions on this thread:
http://www.suebob.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=54
I'm not finished polishing it. I'm almost thru with the next-to-the-last polishing step.
IMG_1347.jpg


I've hear of folks using a modified pizza pan as a lid for these. I'm thinking that there are lids that will fit.

I did put some water into the keg before cutting. I did not wear hearing protection, but I did wear safety goggles.

I plan to put a ball valve and a heating element into it. I'm not a welder, so I plan to use weldless fittings for now.

I'd like to find a really nice 4500-5500 watt heatstick. I'm just not sure about those things.

Hope this helps,
Keith
 
I just wanted to share a close-up of the final product, I haven't logged on for at least 3 years but I had a ton of PM's of people wanted or doubting the final product.

IMAG1274.jpg
 
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