Keggle MLT Users, How much heat do you lose?

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Dr_Deathweed

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I am still dialing in my equipment, but notice that I lose A LOT of heat from my Keggle MLT, especially when sparging. I may lose as much as 10-15 degrees in 30-45 minutes. Grant it seems that it is always windy when I decide to brew and I know you can lose a lot of heat that way, but I was wondering if anyone has similar problems.
 
I use a cooler as an HLT, and while Mashing wrap my Mastun in a Water softener insulation pad. Depending on outside temp I lose anywhere from 5-15 degrees I rarely worry about it though, by the time I'm sparging the mash is done and I use near boiling sparge water.. efficiency averages 80% (I also sparge to 7.5 gallons and boil down
 
deathweed said:
I am still dialing in my equipment, but notice that I lose A LOT of heat from my Keggle MLT, especially when sparging. I may lose as much as 10-15 degrees in 30-45 minutes. Grant it seems that it is always windy when I decide to brew and I know you can lose a lot of heat that way, but I was wondering if anyone has similar problems.

How is your MLT insulated? I have mine wrapped in 3 layers of that thin foil-lined bubble-wrap type insulation (can't remember the official name of it). I also put a blanket on the lid during mashing. It really depends on the weather. In the summer, I'm lucky to lose one degree, but in the winter, I lose 2-3 per hour. I never really worried about it during sparging because I fly sparge and figure as long as the sparge water temp is good, then it should be fine. But that's what I love about keggles as mash tuns... direct heat can raise a mash temp. if it falls too much and it's easy to do a mash-out.
 
I've never used a keggle as an MLT, but I have used a kettle.
I've always mashed indoors (where there isn't much wind), but even so, I found it necessary to apply heat to maintain the mash temperature.
Nowadays, I use a cooler to mash in, and don't need the heat.

-a.
 
I currently don't have it insulated, didn't think that I needed to. I am not too worried about the temperature, I re-heat my mash if the temp drops too low, then direct fire for a mash out. I have been getting pretty good efficiency lately in the 75-85 range, so i am not too worried about that. I will look into the foil bubble wrap, I think I know what you are talking about.
 
It's hard to tell-- Mine doesn't seem to lose heat evenly throughout the mash(My thermometer will read 150 almost an hour straight, but when I stir it will show that it's actually lost 5-8 degrees).

The last two times I've mashed I've done one rest at 130, heated to 150, stirred and reheated at the saccrification rest once at the midpoint and then sparged.
 
I've got a keg MLT...I lose up to 15 degrees over an hour. What with all the nooks/crannies at the rim, it's a PITA to clean, too. Lately, I've just been sticking with my trusty coleman 10 gal cylinder.....it's way easier to clean, lighter, and holds temps SO much better. I'm consistently getting effs in the 80's up to 85%....I really don't see any reason to screw with it anymore, unless I were brewing several batches in a day and wanted to babysit the MLT....
 
Stevorino said:
It's hard to tell-- Mine doesn't seem to lose heat evenly throughout the mash(My thermometer will read 150 almost an hour straight, but when I stir it will show that it's actually lost 5-8 degrees).

The last two times I've mashed I've done one rest at 130, heated to 150, stirred and reheated at the saccrification rest once at the midpoint and then sparged.


This is exactly what I have been doing. Its not a huge deal, I get to sit back and flip a burner on for a couple minutes once an hour or so. I don't think I will ever swap to the cooler method, not to diss the tried and true, but being able to direct fire has its merits.

Well it looks like I am not the only one noticing this, and thats what I wanted to know! I guess I will look into a little bit of insulation!:D
 
I just can't bring myself to mash in a cooler. I know there are plenty of studies with opposing views about whether or not chemicals from heated plastics leach into food, but cooking (mashing) for an hour or more in a plastic/vinyl type product just makes me uncomfortable. But hey, that's just me!
 
I'm looking into making a jump to both a 10g system and doing all grain.

I can't seem to find any good argument not to just use a cooler if you don't intend to step mash.

Ideally i'd like to be able to step mash so i've been considering a keggle or other pot for the mash tun.

That in mind, the benifit of insulation has come up. Unfortunatly most your heat lost due to convection through the side is on the lower end of the pot and also the heat source. You don't want your insulation to burn.

One ideais a sleave, if/when you fire the burner it will be removed totally
Thinking of using rigid insulation board, 2 layers (stager seam overlaps) The corners of the inside can given a diagnol piece that is vertically scored to curve to make a more round chamber to conform to the mash tun. 'Wall paper' the insides with tyvek. Use a heat resilant mastic.

coordinate the size of it with your brew scupture.
 
hummm, thats a good idea too, just removable insulation. I had a little trouble visualizing your exact design. If you feel like drawing it up, I am sure more than one person on here would benefit from it.
 
I have used both coolers and keggles. When I went to 15 gallon batches I switched to using a 30 gallon HDPE drum for a mash tun. It is very thick (2.2 mm) high density polyethylene. They are food grade and hold heat much better than stainless steel. They are light and easy to clean. Their thick single wall makes them very easy to install a weldless bulkhead. You can pick them up cheap on ebay. In fact, the shipping is usually more than the drum itself. I bought a closed head drum and I cut the lid off about 2 inches down from the top (most narrow point). I then cut off a band of plastic to reduce the barrel height. The lid slips in quite nicely for a secure fit. It is by the nicest mash tun I have used. They come in different varieties (open and closed head) and in 15, 20, 30 and 55 gallon sizes. see the following link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Water-Barrel-Ne...oryZ1267QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 
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