RIMS for Dummies

Brewer's Friend 728
Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I've decided I want to go the RIMS tube route, but before I start ordering parts can I get a sanity check to make sure I'm not missing something, or have some gross misconception.

Tube - http://brewhardware.com/rimsherms-parts/122-rims

Temperature Controller - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3

RTD - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=246

SSR - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=9

Heat Sink - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=45

Heating Element - http://www.kegkits.com/Merchant2/me...=W&Product_Code=120VBP_EL&Category_Code=EBREW

I'm going to find a box on ebay and am pretty confident in the wiring, as long as I know I've got the right parts. I've got a 20A outlet in my garage so I'm going to also be running the pump off the panel as well. I also know that I'd probably be able to do better buying the heating element and enclosure piece by piece, but I'm ok with spending a few extra bucks rather than figuring out how to enclose the elements connections on my own.

So I ask you, am I out to lunch with what I'm ordering?
 
I would suggest you choose a RIMs tube that you can easily and routinely disassemble in order to give the element a good scrubbing. Brewing Hardware sells a tri-clover version for $40 more than the one you linked to.
 
I know, I looked at that. There is a lot more than 40$ difference though, by the time you buy the fittings to support the heating element, and the temp probe. I'm still thinking about it.

Is cleaning it really that big of a deal? I mean, it doesn't have to be sanitized. I figured I'd blow PBW through it to get the gunks out.
 
Yes it's that important. The element gets a weird film on it from protein or something. You can't get it off without rubbing/wiping. Eventually it gets baked on. Do a quick search and you'll see a lot of people wishing it was easier to take the RIMs apart for cleaning. There are other options besides the ones Derrin makes too.
 
Check out the cam locks at pro flow dynamics. I used a set to make my element removable from the tube. They have stainless steel and aluminum. I used stainless threaded pipe and the aluminum can locks. No issues in a year. I can get you lengths and diameters if you are interested.
 
I have the tri-clover clamp rims tube and the guys are right every time I tear the rig apart there's a weird slime on all the parts that need a gentle scrub to remove. The tube cost me around 150 but piece of mind was worth it. I have a parts list if anyone wants it.
 
Hooray, I'm influential! You love that thing for sure. Plus it may be easier to replace the element when you dry fire it (which you will).
 
JoeyChopps said:
I have the tri-clover clamp rims tube and the guys are right every time I tear the rig apart there's a weird slime on all the parts that need a gentle scrub to remove. The tube cost me around 150 but piece of mind was worth it. I have a parts list if anyone wants it.
Click to expand...

Yes please. Just built an Omron E5GN PID temp controller and I'm looking for something other than a ferm fridge/kegerator to use it on. I feel a simple thermostat is sufficient in both of those cases.
 
fc36 said:
Yes please. Just built an Omron E5GN PID temp controller and I'm looking for something other than a ferm fridge/kegerator to use it on. I feel a simple thermostat is sufficient in both of those cases.
Click to expand...

heres the list of all the ss pieces i used for the tube with quantities
http://www.glaciertanks.com/NPT_TriClamp_Adapters-NPT_1_1_2_Female _to_1_1_2_TriClamp_Heavy_Duty.html 1Ea
http://www.glaciertanks.com/NPT_TriClamp_Adapters-NPT_1_2_Female_to_1_1_2_TriClamp_Heavy_Duty.html 1Ea
http://www.glaciertanks.com/TriClamp_Hose_Adapters-Rubber_Hose_Adapter_3_4_-1_1_2_TC.html 2 Ea
http://www.glaciertanks.com/TriClamp_Clamps-TriClamp_1_1_2_Single_Hinge_HEAVY_DUTY.html 5 Ea
http://www.glaciertanks.com/Silicone_Gaskets-TriClamp_Silicone_Gasket_1_1_2_White.html 5 Ea
http://www.glaciertanks.com/TriClamp_T_s_Long-TriClamp_T_s_Long_1_1_2.html 2 Ea

heres the electric stuff i used minus a few odds and ends

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_30&page=1&sort=3a
1Ea 25 Amp SSR
1Ea 25 Amp heat sink
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3 1Ea
Liquid tight RTD sensor, 4 in, 1/2 NPT Thread 1 Ea

If you want pics of my rig just let me know.
 
JoeyChopps said:
If you want pics of my rig just let me know.
Click to expand...

Absolutely! Pics are always great. Luckily, I have the PID put together. All I need is a project box or enclosure to put it in and a cord with cord grip. Then a RIMS tube and March pump and I'm set. ****, that's actually a lot of stuff I need. Haha
 
image-1385757975.jpg

The tube

image-2786858924.jpg

Here's my control box made from a cheap ss box from harbor freight

image-1602112915.jpg

Close up of controls. The xlr hook up is for the temp probe the left switch is for the pump. The middle switch is for the pid control and the right switch is the element kill switch.

image-1696445257.jpg

March pump

image-1693044404.jpg

Power supply waterproof cover

image-1454930185.jpg

Power supply the male is the power in and the female goes to the element.

image-2454917950.jpg

My messy wiring.
 
Thanks man my whole setup is portable and cleans up nice. It looks nice as long as I keep the tool box closed. 😀
 
JoeyChopps said:
No under the ssr is a heat sink and I leave the tool box cracked I want to install a fan eventually.
Click to expand...

Cool. Just checking. I've head nightmares about them overheatng and sticking closrd-
 
ebstauffer said:
Cool. Just checking. I've head nightmares about them overheatng and sticking closrd-
Click to expand...

Here's a mod to consider. I cut a hole on the far end of the box and installed a 5 inch AC computer fan that is wired to the main power switch. It's covered by some metal mesh I got at Home Depot. It blows past all the components, including the heat sink that the SSR sits on. Any heat from the fan gets blown out the back exhaust port before it heats anything else up. I've run this set up with the lid closed for several hours in a warm garage without any issues. All told, it probably added about $25 to build cost.

image-990989226.jpg


image-1270447014.jpg


image-673300231.jpg


image-3694754511.jpg
 
That's exactly my plan for a ventilation plan I jut haven't taken the time to do it I'm in the begging phase of building my keezer
 
So I just checked the Auber Instruments site...I don't see a SYL-4352 PID, did they change a part number?
 
Look under 43x2. There are 4 types listed. 4352 has 2 types.

Or simply search for 4352. It will take you to the 43x2 page where you choose the model you want.
 
I've had the parts to make one of these for about six months, but on the last brew day I wanted to scale down to a 5 gal batch and I had problems maintaining mash temps with the smaller mass..so time to finally build!

I have everything wired up with the exception of the Auber RTD- this is a three wire model- two red and on white wires. I am using the mypin TA4-SNR. I cannot get this wired correctly- has anyone wired this RTD / PID combination successfully? I get a reading of 1053 for the PV (probe temp). This reading does change when I apply heat so I know the RTD is working.

I have read most of the 107 pages for this thread, but I apologize in advance if this was covered somewhere else that my search did not find-

Thanks, & Happy New Year!
 
TheSavant said:
I have everything wired up with the exception of the Auber RTD- this is a three wire model- two red and on white wires. I am using the mypin TA4-SNR. I cannot get this wired correctly- has anyone wired this RTD / PID combination successfully? I get a reading of 1053 for the PV (probe temp). This reading does change when I apply heat so I know the RTD is working.
Click to expand...

In case anyone else has this issue wanted to post the solution:

Red wire on post 7, jump 8 & 9 with white wire, other red goes on #10.

Also BE SURE to set the Input to RTD- I finally figured this out which solved the problem!
 
PJ,

I'm looking to make a portable rims tube setup similar to this and was wondering how would you change this if you were using the LED switches (similar to GCX3253-120L) from Automation Direct? I'm assuming that you would need to incorporate a contactor somehow for switch 1.

Thanks,
Jaw

P-J said:
Here you go:
(Please note that the RIMS is interlocked with the pump so that the RIMS cannot fire unless the pump is switched on.)

As always - click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Hope this helps you.

P-J

(EDIT: Wow. I just posted # 1000 in this thread.)
Click to expand...
 
biestie said:
Fine fockers, you win. I ordered the trio-clover.
Click to expand...

I am starting my RIMS toolbox project and had my mind set on just stainless fittings because it was much cheaper. Until I re-read the end of this thread a million times. Fockers got me too. Just got my RIMS tube from brewers hardware and it looks like its worth the extra cash!!!!

However, I was just going to use the simple selector switches from Auber so I also purchased their 30A-120V contactors to turn the power on to the element however they show on the slip they were out of the 30A-120V and sent a 40-120V but in reality they sent a 40A-240V contactor. Can I still use this in place of the 30amp contactor I originally was going to install?
 
Hello - two questions:
1- Maybe this question has been answered in the thread... but I'm curious why the wort outlet on the tube isn't at the far end of the tube and the thermocouple isn't installed through the middle of the tee. wouldn't that ensure air bubbles would have a way out of the tube (assuming it is mounted vertically) and ensure that the thermocouple is always within the moving wort?

2- Assume I run a BIAB process. For a 5 gallon batch I heat around 8 gallons of water to strike temp using propane. Would the 120v 1500watt tubes in this thread work to keep the mash at the desired temp? Or are these tubes better suited for traditional mash and sparge methods where you are only moving 3 to 4 gallons of mash water?

Any insight is appreciated. Thanks!
 
JoeyChopps said:
heres the list of all the ss pieces i used for the tube with quantities
http://www.glaciertanks.com/NPT_TriClamp_Adapters-NPT_1_1_2_Female _to_1_1_2_TriClamp_Heavy_Duty.html 1Ea
http://www.glaciertanks.com/NPT_TriClamp_Adapters-NPT_1_2_Female_to_1_1_2_TriClamp_Heavy_Duty.html 1Ea
http://www.glaciertanks.com/TriClamp_Hose_Adapters-Rubber_Hose_Adapter_3_4_-1_1_2_TC.html 2 Ea
http://www.glaciertanks.com/TriClamp_Clamps-TriClamp_1_1_2_Single_Hinge_HEAVY_DUTY.html 5 Ea
http://www.glaciertanks.com/Silicone_Gaskets-TriClamp_Silicone_Gasket_1_1_2_White.html 5 Ea
http://www.glaciertanks.com/TriClamp_T_s_Long-TriClamp_T_s_Long_1_1_2.html 2 Ea

heres the electric stuff i used minus a few odds and ends

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_30&page=1&sort=3a
1Ea 25 Amp SSR
1Ea 25 Amp heat sink
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3 1Ea
Liquid tight RTD sensor, 4 in, 1/2 NPT Thread 1 Ea

If you want pics of my rig just let me know.
Click to expand...

Just wondering why didn't you go with the Tri-Clamp Liquid tight RTD Sensor listed on Auberins website? It would have saved you the hassle of an add'l NPT fitting that may leak and it only costs about $5-10 more than the NPT liquid tight RTDs. It also saves you the $14.95+shipping for the triclamp to 1/2" NPT fitting that you needed.

Update: I just built my temp. controller in a Home Depot toolbox and I'm currently using it for my keezer temps. However, I'll soon be building a RIMS tube similar to yours, so I appreciate all the pics and parts list that you took the time to post. I had a 1/4" NPT RTD probe lying around at work and went for it, but I ended up accidentally burning it out by immersing it in a small Thai food container filled with water in my keezer. <smacks forehead> Stupid! Luckily, I had a cheap air thermocouple lying around as a cheap alternative in the interim for keezer control.

:off: I wanted more accurate liquid temp measurements for potentially better control, but all I found out was; A) don't expose the back end of a "liquid tight" probe to water, because it's only liquid tight on the business side of the fitting; B) liquid temp measurement causes greater swings in keezer temps than air temp measurement because the freezer coils are still super-chilled for a little while after the SSR kicks off. Thus, they impart a much lower interior air temp to the keg until the water catches up. Air temp. measurement takes a little longer to chill down the kegs when you first fire it up or on a newly inserted keg, but once chilled to temp, it tends to keep a tighter control band on the system temp of the keg. Just my two cents on that.
 
fc36 said:
Just wondering why didn't you go with the Tri-Clamp Liquid tight RTD Sensor listed on Auberins website? It would have saved you the hassle of an add'l NPT fitting that may leak and it only costs about $5-10 more than the NPT liquid tight RTDs. It also saves you the $14.95+shipping for the triclamp to 1/2" NPT fitting that you needed.

To tell you the truth I really don't remember my reasoning for going that route maybe so I could break it down and also change the RTD if need be. But that's only a guess. Also I've never had an issue with it leaking.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
nutty_gnome said:
Is CPVC pipe a suitable alternative for the RIMS tube?
Click to expand...

Heat + CPVC = chemical leaching and/or melting of plastic. Even though you're surrounding the heater element with liquid, it still has the potential to accidentally run dry and then you risk melting the whole thing, plus CPVC may leach into your beer and you don't want to risk that.
 
I used aluminum cam locks instead of stainless on my RIMs. I did use stainless pipe and fittings for the tube. One year later, I have no regrets.

If I remember correctly, the difference in cost between aluminum and stainless wasn't that big. But I'd verify that before buying anything.
 
pshel said:
Anyone have thoughts on using aluminum pipe fittings rather then stainless?
Click to expand...

Aluminum piping has not been approved for potable water in the U.S. and it is generally not acceptable for most water applications. You sometimes see aluminum piping being used for irrigation and farming as a cheap alternative, but rarely anywhere else. As an aside, some modern pipes are made with aluminum but that's just for structural integrity. The real pipe is an inner plastic tube.

For a RIMS tube, it has several drawbacks:

1) Being a rare and generally unused piping material, finding the very specific components needed for a RIMS tube may prove to be difficult and just as costly as using the widely available stainless steel parts that are all over any number of vendor websites.

2) Aluminum pipes are prone to corrosion like most non-alloy metals. The passive oxide layer formed on the exposed surface of aluminum materials is not impregnable as you would be led to believe.

3) Lastly, I have two simple physics problems that may cause you to rethink this. First, is a "galvanic cell" or two disimilar metals producing a current when connected by a salt bridge. The salt, or in this case, sugar in wort allows a redox reaction to occur whereby one metal is reduced and one metal is oxidized. Last time I checked, most RTDs' and thermowells' have surfaces made of stainless steel and also your heating element is made of steel. Now, your pipes are made of aluminum and the whole thing is filled with ionic wort (pH is in its base form is a measure of ionic charge in a liquid), thus creating a galvanic cell of sorts where tons of aluminum can enter solution and find its way into your beer. Second, is the "thermoelectric effect" which is actually three separate physics phenomena that are interconnected. The one we're interested in is the "Seebeck effect" whereby a temperature gradient between two metals can induce an electric potential. In this case, aluminum piping and steel heated element are in contact with each other and at different temperatures. A small electric potential could probably be observed in theory and be another avenue for unwanted metals to enter solution as charged ions and thus make their way into your beer.
 
What pshel was talking about is aluminum fittings, not aluminum piping. Folks have been using aluminum pot to boil their wort in for a long time and there haven't been any reported issues with doing such. The issue has been debated on HBT many times and it turns out that aluminum is ok.

To pshel - I've been using aluminum camlock fittings on my stainless steel pipe RIMS tube, pump, and ball valves for over 3 years now and have not identified any issues with using them.
 
stlbeer said:
What pshel was talking about is aluminum fittings, not aluminum piping. Folks have been using aluminum pot to boil their wort in for a long time and there haven't been any reported issues with doing such. The issue has been debated on HBT many times and it turns out that aluminum is ok.

To pshel - I've been using aluminum camlock fittings on my stainless steel pipe RIMS tube, pump, and ball valves for over 3 years now and have not identified any issues with using them.
Click to expand...

I myself use an aluminum pot and that debate has been put to bed, but piping, I would think twice. You're right, I would say fittings are fine, but I would hesitate to make the RIMS pipe out of aluminum. Just my own .02. Additionally, I would think that aluminum threads have a greater chance of stripping or cross-threading when you eventually have to take it apart and clean it.
 
Since the list on the first post was last updated in 2009, I just want to check something. Is the generally accepted "best parts" list is still the same?

I'm basically looking at
  • http://www.brewhardware.com/rimsherms-parts/122-rims for the body
  • Adding a 1 1/2" SS Camlock pairing to make the element easily removed
  • The 1500W 120-1500-ELD element from plumbingsupply.com
  • Auber 2352 PID
  • Auber TC-K100M1/2NPT K-type thermocouple
  • A 25A SSR with heat sink
  • 20A GFCI extension cord
  • Couple of appropriately rated switches, a project box, and perhaps a cooling fan

Bueno? Suggestions?
 

Similar threads

M
Question about a design for a direct fire RIMS design
Replies
1
Views
515
Bobby_M
Bobby_M
TheBeerGuy
Keezer Tap Towers
Replies
1
Views
275
OakIslandBrewery
OakIslandBrewery
T
2023 FotD Secret "Santa" ("Cupid"?) Beer Swap
2 3
Replies
110
Views
4K
pshankstar
pshankstar
J
Hey y’all from Kentucky kombucha gal
Replies
7
Views
465
IslandLizard
IslandLizard
Simon McIlroy
Corn Sugar Storage + Yeast Resurrection?
Replies
9
Views
792
IslandLizard
IslandLizard

Latest posts

Back
Top