Questions about March Pumps answered by the Factory!

sorry guys for not replying lately....was on vacation last week...and the past month has been nothing but crazyness with one of our OEM's...they placed an order for close to 1000units of our 5.5 series pumps and want them on a crazy time frame so things have been off the hook here tyring to get things out the door. I'm sorry if i have not gotten back to anyone. Its usually easier to PM (the email notifies me) or email me direct @ wwojcik@ marchpump.com

I've got a quick question.I've got an AC-3CP-MD and it's rated to only 190F.Would it be safe in an HLT/Herms up to 205F?

And BTW thanks for the info.

mmmmm....well some people have used them at near boiling temps...it all depends on how long you expose it at those temps....few minutes "shouldnt" hurt things...
It would be easier for you to just change that pump head to the 3B thats made out of the polysulfone plastic that can handle up to 250*...it would be a bolt on swap

Walter,

Does March make a higher volume pump than the 815 that doesn't use larger fittings (higher pressure, even)? Or is the volume of the pump limited by the inlet/outlet size in combination with the HP rating?

prrriiide said:

Walter,

Or is the volume of the pump limited by the inlet/outlet size in combination with the HP rating?

Click to expand...

yep!

the only other pump we have that can do more pressure but not more volume would be our 320-CP-MD...it only does 3gpm but can make 17psi if theres enough restriction.

WalterAtMarchPump said:

mmmmm....well some people have used them at near boiling temps...it all depends on how long you expose it at those temps....few minutes "shouldnt" hurt things...
It would be easier for you to just change that pump head to the 3B thats made out of the polysulfone plastic that can handle up to 250*...it would be a bolt on swap

Click to expand...

I'll see if I can find a 3B replacement head for it.Thanks so much for making yourself available for questions.

Hello Walter. Could you please confirm if all I need to convert my 815 PL-C to the SS version are the housing (0809-0150-0000) and the o-ring (0809-0165-1000)? Thanks, and great info from you!

mrjofus1959 said:

Hello Walter. Could you please confirm if all I need to convert my 815 PL-C to the SS version are the housing (0809-0150-0000) and the o-ring (0809-0165-1000)? Thanks, and great info from you!

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If so, do you have a price for these items?

jscottAT4 said:

If so, do you have a price for these items?

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The housings are $200 at http://www.tescopumps.com/servlet/StoreFront

The o-rings can be had for a couple bucks elsewhere. I didn't find them on the Tesco site.

mrjofus1959 said:

Hello Walter. Could you please confirm if all I need to convert my 815 PL-C to the SS version are the housing (0809-0150-0000) and the o-ring (0809-0165-1000)? Thanks, and great info from you!

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Yes those are the only two parts you would need to convert over to SS. I can only give you the list price for the parts...you would need to call any one of the distributors to get a price. ($250 housing $2 for o-ring list)

WalterAtMarchPump said:

Yes those are the only two parts you would need to convert over to SS. I can only give you the list price for the parts...you would need to call any one of the distributors to get a price. ($250 housing $2 for o-ring list)

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Thanks Walter!

Hey Walter,

I hear it is not recommended to screw a ball valve directly onto the pump because you could damage the plastic threading etc. What kind of adapter should go between the pump and my ball valve? Thanks!

Rick

Sorry for the late reply...for some reason i didnt get a notification of a new posting....anyway you can screw directly to the threads. Just put your fitting on the pump and start it in reverse first....when you feel the "click" of the leading edge of the threads just pass each other then you can start to put the fitting on normaly. Also we recomend a wrap or two of teflon tape for sealing...and hand tighten the fitting (not crazy tight but just tight) and then another 1/4 to 1/2 turn more with a wrench and you should be good to go.

HbgBill said:

subscribed although I can't believe all the iterations of this pump's questions haven't already been answered more than once... grin

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You could say that about virtually every topic imaginable here.

It is what it is: 98% reruns

Cheers!

Yeah i know....I've been on a boating forum for over 13yrs now and most times its easier just to ask a new question then do a search for the answer.....biggest problem is when you try and search, unless you know how to word the search, you will get hundreds of results and most of which may have the key words you typed but probably have nothing to do with what you are looking for....

if you use a restricted fitting on the outlet side it wont hurt anything...you just wont get the full capacity out of the pump.....on the inlet side you could starve it and possibly even cavitate it. What you want to look for is a "full flow" fitting. they have bigger ID's to match the thread size closer....easiest thing you can do is set it up and run it with plain water and see how it works for you...if you are happy with the results you get, then have at it

WalterAtMarchPump said:

Sorry for the late reply...for some reason i didnt get a notification of a new posting....anyway you can screw directly to the threads. Just put your fitting on the pump and start it in reverse first....when you feel the "click" of the leading edge of the threads just pass each other then you can start to put the fitting on normaly. Also we recomend a wrap or two of teflon tape for sealing...and hand tighten the fitting (not crazy tight but just tight) and then another 1/4 to 1/2 turn more with a wrench and you should be good to go.

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Thanks for the response. I was just mainly concerned about stripping the threading by screwing on say, a stainless fitting directly to the pump considering its plastic. I appreciate the info.


PS. I use the search function before I post anything on this forum.

Hey Walter, I just want to say that you conversing with us and posting answers on this thread has been so helpful to hundred's of home brewers here at HBT. It is such a great way for you and your company to be involved and go the extra. You don't see this level of customer service or satisfaction in the business world anymore. You have made me and I'm sure a slew of others loyal customers, as well as new customers looking to purchase the right pumps for their systems. Thanks again!

You Rock Brother! :rockin:

John

I am looking to buy a couple AC-3B or AC-5B. I have a couple 809s that don't pump well over 190°. Will they handle high temps better? Which model would you recommend?
.

Sacdan said:

I am looking to buy a couple AC-3B or AC-5B. I have a couple 809s that don't pump well over 190°. Will they handle high temps better? Which model would you recommend?
.

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If your having problems above 190* the first thing i would do is drill the impellers...they may be binding on the shafts when it heats up and they expand. Pass a 17/64" drill bit through the center and test it out on some hot water...also make sure the teflon thrust washer is still there.....if that doesnt work then send me back the pumps and we will test them out...they shouldnt have any problems with those temps...we have customers running then at up to 240* with no issues.....granted they are closed system and dont have any air in the system but they will still work.

If you are set on upgrading then i would have to ask how big a system you are planning on building. The AC-5B needs a min 3/4" line feeding it...so if your system doesnt have that then you wont get the full capacity of the pump either...

Walter is right, these are great pumps at high temps in a closed system. If you are trying to pump any liquid near its boiling point in an open system like brewing, however, your plumbing needs to be proper. Are you having problems only when the kettle is being heated and at 190? It is likely that spot boiling is causing small bubbles to be sucked into the inlet of the pump, which is at a partial vacuum.. Ideally, you would place your pump well below the bottom of your kettle and have the plumbing have no points that can form an air trap... (even a dip tube can hold air that causes pump problems, but the real culprit is usually a flexible line that goes up and down a little bit over other lines, cords, between brackets, etc... this is just a nightmare on the suction side of the pump) I have had good luck in having the plumbing go straight down, make a single U-band back up, and there is where I place the pump, with flow going vertically up, so if it gets an air bubble in it, it is very self-clearing... for the first year we used centrifugal pumps in homebrew, we cursed them... then we plumbed right, got our pump-chi, and have been going good for 10 years...

Walter,

Could you please let me know the shaft diameter, bolt mounting pattern, and Max RPM of the AC-5B-MD pump?

I've found the "wet end" of that pump for sale online, and I'd like to fit it to a 3 phase motor.

thanks!

Walter welcome to HBT. I have one of your pumps and I love it.

malador said:

Walter,

Could you please let me know the shaft diameter, bolt mounting pattern, and Max RPM of the AC-5B-MD pump?

I've found the "wet end" of that pump for sale online, and I'd like to fit it to a 3 phase motor.

thanks!

Click to expand...

Shaft is 3/8" with a 9/16" flat for setscrew

bolt pattern on our motor actually uses a 10-32 stud on a 3.87/3.91" bolt circle set 90* appart sitting straight up but as long as you can get the holes on it close size wise you can get it to work

and RPM at no-load speed is 3450.....when running its around 3200

WalterAtMarchPump said:

Shaft is 3/8" with a 9/16" flat for setscrew

bolt pattern on our motor actually uses a 10-32 stud on a 3.87/3.91" bolt circle set 90* appart sitting straight up but as long as you can get the holes on it close size wise you can get it to work

and RPM at no-load speed is 3450.....when running its around 3200

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Awesome, I can make that work. One more question if you don't mind. What is the smallest 3 phase pump you make suitable for beer making? I want to order my pumps today, and just wanted to compare prices.

Smallest 3 phase suitable for beer making? The smallest pump that starts in 3 phase would be our series 5.5 Unfortunatly we dont make that one in the polysulfone plastic....only Polypropylene and Kynar plastic....but you can get it in Stainless (TE-5.5S-MD)

And looking back....i didnt dawn on me till writing this that we do make the series 5 in a more industrial versions (The TE-5) they come with a 42 frame motor (Still not 3 phase though)...just make sure the motor you find has the same shaft dimentions as above....and the motor shaft 1" long from the mounting face to the end of the shaft....most off the shelf are longer....just take a hack saw and lop it off shorter

Walter,

Any idea where the best place to get a few thrust washers is? I have 2 815 pumps and I noticed the last time I opened one up the thrust washer was very worn. Would like to get a couple to have on hand.

Thanks!

malador said:

Awesome, I can make that work. One more question if you don't mind. What is the smallest 3 phase pump you make suitable for beer making? I want to order my pumps today, and just wanted to compare prices.

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Sorry to butt in here but is there any reason why it has to be 3 phase? As long as the pump can do what you want it to you should be able to drop a single hot leg to run single phase equipment , no? I would imagine that you would not need to go to single phase untill you were much bigger than the realm of a micro brewery, say 50 hL (just a guess )

Deric, The best place I have found to buy them is at William's Brewing - thrust washer

I keep a few on hand.

mattd2 said:

Sorry to butt in here but is there any reason why it has to be 3 phase? As long as the pump can do what you want it to you should be able to drop a single hot leg to run single phase equipment , no? I would imagine that you would not need to go to single phase untill you were much bigger than the realm of a micro brewery, say 50 hL (just a guess )

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While a single phase pump would work, in a bigger or any professional brewery I would go for as big of a pump as possible. When you need to make money off brewing time is important. On the 10bbl system at my old job transfer took a little over a hour and a half for each transfer. For every batch that is 4.5 hours just pumping beer. It adds up quick.

mattd2 said:

Sorry to butt in here but is there any reason why it has to be 3 phase? As long as the pump can do what you want it to you should be able to drop a single hot leg to run single phase equipment , no? I would imagine that you would not need to go to single phase untill you were much bigger than the realm of a micro brewery, say 50 hL (just a guess )

Click to expand...

There really is no great reason for it to be three phase. But then there is not a great reason have pumps for home brewing. I like three phase motors, they are quiet, easy to adjust speed, have no centrifugal switches, and they are what i work with the most. I know the benefits wont out weight the cost, but i don't care.

LordUlrich said:

While a single phase pump would work, in a bigger or any professional brewery I would go for as big of a pump as possible. When you need to make money off brewing time is important. On the 10bbl system at my old job transfer took a little over a hour and a half for each transfer. For every batch that is 4.5 hours just pumping beer. It adds up quick.

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That's 3.5 GPM? What pump where you running? A March AC-5SSB-MD will pump out 8 GPM on the middle of its pump curve. I don't think the issue at that brewery was a single phase pump.

The people that get into 3 PHase motors are usually eyeing a VFD (Variable frquency drive) to be installed on the motor so they can adjust the RPM's of the motor and the output of the pump on the fly....no valves to monkey with just turn a dial to set value and go

WalterAtMarchPump said:

The people that get into 3 PHase motors are usually eyeing a VFD (Variable frquency drive) to be installed on the motor so they can adjust the RPM's of the motor and the output of the pump on the fly....no valves to monkey with just turn a dial to set value and go

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Walter's right, that's exactly what I plan to do. I have a couple of extra VFD's sitting the garage, and this seems like a fun use for them.

I'm like a kid at Xmass hoping walter writes me back letting me know if i listed the parts I need.

should have gotten my reply to your x-mas list already

Hello Walter - Can you tell me what wire gauge you're using for the power cords on the 815 pump? Also how hard would it be to break down the motor housing to install a new power cord, versus splicing on to the original cord to get the length I need for my setup?

Thanks, Kevin

mrjofus1959 said:

Hello Walter - Can you tell me what wire gauge you're using for the power cords on the 815 pump? Also how hard would it be to break down the motor housing to install a new power cord, versus splicing on to the original cord to get the length I need for my setup?

Thanks, Kevin

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Breaking down the motor to change the cord is about impossible for most people. If you were to pop the back cover off the motor you would see the lamination stacks inside....there are two dimples on the outside of the motor that hold that stack in plac....you would need to pop them out to be able just to remove that stack....then you will see the cord is crimped to the main coil wires....must people dont have any type of crimper to spice it the right way...and i'm not sure how well solder would work here.....then if you were actually able to get to this point you would need to insert the stack back into the housing and stake it again without distorting the assembly! Most people that call and ask about this i advise against trying it. Just extend the cord you have now and install a nice braided sleeve over the cord to hide the splice.
The wire gauge is 18

Thanks Walter - splicing it shall be!

Walter,
Attempting to do a toolbox install of my 815. I read what you said around Page 30 of this thread about offsetting the magnet on the shaft. When I take off the motor bracket, I can't seem to take the magnet off the shaft. It looks like there is a place for a set screw, but unless I'm missing something, it doesn't look like there is a set screw there! Despite this, I can't seem to slide or remove the magnet. See pic....

- What is going on that doesn't allow me to slide or remove the magnet?
- Does this even in fact have to be done? The toolbox is relatively thin (~1/32"?) and in most of the blogs and articles I've seen about this type of setup, offsetting the magnet isn't mentioned.

Much thanks!!!

Most times its hard to make out but the set screw takes a 1/8" allen key to break it free....once the set screw is loose it "should" come off...if its stubborn then take two flat head screw drivers and put the tips under the collar of the magnet up against the shaft and pry it off.....but do it with two screw drivers so you put equal pressure on it as its coming off. 1/32" shouldnt bother the drive magnet....worse case if you have decoupling issues you may need to take it apart later and re-set the magnet on the shaft.