Glycol Cooling for Large Ace Roto Tanks

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Chugmaster

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
120
Reaction score
1
Location
Ottawa
Long time reader, first time poster.

I recently purchased a 110 gallon plastic Ace Roto tank and am wondering if anyone has any experience cooling such a tank with a DIY glycol jacket.

I've seen it done in other posts with 15 gallon plastic tanks and larger SS tanks, but no mention of anyone attempting to cool a tank of this size.

My plan right now is to fill a freezer with glycol and use a pond pump with temperature controller to circulate the coolant through copper tubing that has been insulated on the outside of the tank. I'm wondering how effective this would be given the thickness of the plastic and the size of the tank.

Thanks.
 
What about pumping glycol through an immersion chiller. You could control the pump on/off depending on wort temp. I think the biggest problem your facing is thermal mass of 110 gallons, particularly during fermentation. I might be really tough getting enough cooling through 1/4"+ insulating plastic. Someone might kick me for this, but you might check out this thread on another forum. http://www.probrewer.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=26572. We're talking 10BBL plastic cooled by AC.

Good luck!
PLOVE
 
I'd rather cool on the outside for ease of cleaning. Having to clean 100 feet of SS or copper tubing on the inside of a 110 gallon tank doesn't sound appealing.
 
PLOVE's link will work fine if you're just interested in keeping the vessel at ale fermentation temps.
If you're looking to cold crash and/or lager, you'll need an internal coil. You wouldn't need a huge one, 25' would be plenty for 3BBL.
 
I'll bite.

I don't see why you couldn't run a copper line on the outside of the tank and make it work. That being said, I agree and disagree with the thermal mass being an issue only because you will only be taxing the chiller to maintain temperature. This PID loop will take care of how long to run the pump for cooling. Now, if you were to try to crash the fermentation, that may take a bit longer depending on its location, insulation, how well the freezer works and the amount of glycol you plan on having in the freezer for reserves.

I think that the only major problem would be the amount of tubing required. This may require a decent size pump. In my setup I had to use a 100 psi diaphragm pump to pump through 50' of copper line and probably and additional 12 foot of stainless through the water fountain. Take a look below at some general calculations.

If you used 3/8" copper and lets say 100 feet so you can have enough revolutions round the vessel and an estimated 100 gallon per hour flow rate.


Flow medium: Water 20 °C / liquid
Volume flow:: 100 gal/hr
Weight density: 998.206 kg/m³
Dynamic Viscosity: 1001.61 10-6 kg/ms
Element of pipe: circular
Dimensions of element: Diameter of pipe D: .375 in.
Length of pipe L: 100 ft.
Velocity of flow: 4.84 ft./s
Reynolds number: 14008
Velocity of flow 2: -
Reynolds number 2: -
Flow: turbulent
Absolute roughness: .0013 mm
Pipe friction number: 0.03
Resistance coefficient: 91.33
Resist.coeff.branching pipe: -
Press.drop branch.pipe: -
Pressure drop: 2073.11 lbw./sq.ft.
14.4 psi


p = 0.434 h SG (1)

Where
p = pressure (psi)
h = head (ft)
SG = specific gravity( which will be 1 as we are using water)

14.4= 0.434 *h*1
14.4 \ .434= h

h= 33 ft of head

Take this with a grain of salt as this calculation does not take into consideration fittings or additional distance from the pump. At the least this will give you an idea if the pump you are looking to get will work for the chiller.

Kyle
 
Thanks for the calculations Kyle. Could you clarify what the calculation for "head" refers to?

If I were to go with 100' of 3/8" copper, what size (hp) pump am I looking at? What are you using for your 50' setup?

My intent is to lager at 2c (36f).

I have visited wineries before where they've had massive fermenters encased in glycol jackets. My high school physics background tells me that it can be done given enough glylcol and insulation.

My plan is to fill a 3.6 cu.ft. freezer completely with glycol (right up against the walls of the bare freezer) and cool it to at least -5F.
 
My concern would be the the resin is not going to transmit much heat from the beer to the cooling lines- I don't know anything about the material but it looks pretty much like plastic which tends to be a pretty excellent insulator. Not an engineer by any stretch of the imagination but that's just what jumps out at me.
 
Thanks,

"Head" is the height the pump is able to pumps liquid before the liquid over comes the pumps flow.

So as an example, take a look at chugger pump stats:

Model : Chugger SS Inline
Description
Inlet 1/2" MPT Outlet 1/2"MPT

Max Flow 7 GPM 22.7 LPM
Max Head 18.6 FT 4.1 M
Power .04 HP .029 KW
Electrical 115V 50/60HZ
Submersible Non-Submersible
60HZ 50HZ


So ideally, the calculations we did above would rule this pump out due to the pressure drop across the tubing and our head requirement was at least 33 ft. You would almost need at a minimum double the head to just allow the glycol to flow through the tubing.

I do agree that plastic isnt the ideal material to transfer heat which is why most of the plastic fermentors use a coil mounted in the lid for cooling. That being said, I dont think that it will not work having the coil outside. It will merely take longer to cool down the beer to the Tempature you desire. By the way at -5 degree glycol, enough insulation and time this will work. Make sure you have the Tempature probe from the PID in a thermal well with it contacting the beer not the surface of the fermentor.
 
Oh I forgot. My setup is as follows

50' of 1/4" copper line
My pump is a 12v diaphragm pump that has an adjustable pressure output from 30 psi to 100psi. For my setup I needed quite a bit of pressure from the pump due to the size of the tubing. But I want to say my pump is 1/2 hp...

Here are my photo's

image-1542225533.jpg


image-3135660357.jpg


image-1698555259.jpg


image-2384805049.jpg
 
Kyled93 said:
Oh I forgot. My setup is as follows

50' of 1/4" copper line
My pump is a 12v diaphragm pump that has an adjustable pressure output from 30 psi to 100psi. For my setup I needed quite a bit of pressure from the pump due to the size of the tubing. But I want to say my pump is 1/2 hp...

Here are my photo's

Nice Job!

What temps can you crash to with an ambient temp of say 75 degrees? What temp is your chilling glycol?

Thanks!
 
Lately here in Florida, my garage is about 90 or so.. With the water fountain I can maintain at a minimum 50 degrees. As far as trying to lager, I haven't tried to set the temp that low just yet. Granted the amount of liquid I have in the system is no more than 40 oz.
 
Kyled93 said:
Lately here in Florida, my garage is about 90 or so.. With the water fountain I can maintain at a minimum 50 degrees. As far as trying to lager, I haven't tried to set the temp that low just yet. Granted the amount of liquid I have in the system is no more than 40 oz.

That's great! I'm running a chest freezer with a kitchen garbage can inside full with about 12 gallons of RV glycol at roughly 3 degrees F.

You are spot on with the amount of head needed, I am struggling deeply with getting the proper size pump.

I pump through 6' of 1/2" pex, then reduced to 1/4 inch tubing, the coil inside the fermenter is 25' of 1/4" ss tubing. Probably 5' elevation.

With a march brewing pump I am barely getting it to circulate.

So I am interested in where you got your diaphragm pump, that could potentially solve my problem.
 
Ideally try to keep It all 1/4" and then something like this pump should work...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Hi...692?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item46078c4bdc

The only issue you have is you need a computer transformer to turn on the pump. Make sure the amps are correct. I think mine is a 12 volt and 4.5 amp pump. I picked one up for 20$ I think at amazon.

Sorry wasn't trying to hijack this thread...hope this additional info helps.
 
I apologize ahead of time for shooting from the hip, but I read this thread because I was interested in trying to work out something to do with a glycol chiller quite a while back. I ended up purchasing a small chest freezer instead. Nevertheless, Chugmaster's original question interests me. I also have a question about Kyle93's calculations based upon the specs for a particular pump.

Prior to finally giving in to purchasing the chest freezer and Ranco controller, I was interested in someone's suggestion to place the carboys into a tub filled with cold glycol - that the direct contact of the glycol on the carboy wall (or even water) would be much more efficient than trying to cool the ambient air inside a fermentation chamber.

1. It would be interesting if one could engineer a DIY jacket that would seal against the outside wall of Chugmaster's tank such that the outside wall of the tank provided one wall of the jacket. There would be connections for in/out of the glycol. I would think that the resistance thru this jacket would be much less than that thru 100 ft of 1/4" copper tubing.

2. Regarding the "head" rating on the pump, something just occured to me: if a pump has a head of 10 ft, doesn't that mean that the pump is capable of pumping a column of water up 10 ft and dumping it into a bowl? But . . . if that tube that contains that column of water simply goes up "almost" 10 ft, then this closed system tubing goes back down to the pump, doesn't this change things? Harkening back to college physics days: if you loop a rope thru an overhead pulley and down to a 100 lb load, you have to provide a 100 lb pull on the rope to raise the load (assuming a frictionless system). If you hang a 100 lb weight on the other end of the rope, it shouldn't take any force at all to move the weights up and down. Of course, in the real world, you have to apply some force to overcome the friction in the system.

IOW, if your entire tubing circuit is closed (both ends of the tubing are submersed well into the open glycol bath in the freezer where it's being chilled) a pump rated at 10 head should be able to pump to a much higher level than its rating. I guess the siphoning effect of the downhill leg of the circuit takes the load off the pump.

Am I understanding this correctly, or is there something I'm missing?

3. Another idea: instead of circulating thru 100 ft of 1/4" tubing, would it be more efficient to have a much larger tube go from the pump to the tank where it serves as a manifold to split into 4 or 5 parallel coils of 25 ft each which then rejoin into the larger tube to return to wherever the glycol is being chilled then back to the pump? The electrical comparison might be comparing resisters connected in parallel instead of in series.

I apologize for jumping onto this thread, but I wondered if any of this would help the OP with his solution.

Thanks,
Keith
 
kzimmer0817 said:
I apologize ahead of time for shooting from the hip, but I read this thread because I was interested in trying to work out something to do with a glycol chiller quite a while back. I ended up purchasing a small chest freezer instead. Nevertheless, Chugmaster's original question interests me. I also have a question about Kyle93's calculations based upon the specs for a particular pump.

Prior to finally giving in to purchasing the chest freezer and Ranco controller, I was interested in someone's suggestion to place the carboys into a tub filled with cold glycol - that the direct contact of the glycol on the carboy wall (or even water) would be much more efficient than trying to cool the ambient air inside a fermentation chamber.

1. It would be interesting if one could engineer a DIY jacket that would seal against the outside wall of Chugmaster's tank such that the outside wall of the tank provided one wall of the jacket. There would be connections for in/out of the glycol. I would think that the resistance thru this jacket would be much less than that thru 100 ft of 1/4" copper tubing.

2. Regarding the "head" rating on the pump, something just occured to me: if a pump has a head of 10 ft, doesn't that mean that the pump is capable of pumping a column of water up 10 ft and dumping it into a bowl? But . . . if that tube that contains that column of water simply goes up "almost" 10 ft, then this closed system tubing goes back down to the pump, doesn't this change things? Harkening back to college physics days: if you loop a rope thru an overhead pulley and down to a 100 lb load, you have to provide a 100 lb pull on the rope to raise the load (assuming a frictionless system). If you hang a 100 lb weight on the other end of the rope, it shouldn't take any force at all to move the weights up and down. Of course, in the real world, you have to apply some force to overcome the friction in the system.

IOW, if your entire tubing circuit is closed (both ends of the tubing are submersed well into the open glycol bath in the freezer where it's being chilled) a pump rated at 10 head should be able to pump to a much higher level than its rating. I guess the siphoning effect of the downhill leg of the circuit takes the load off the pump.

Am I understanding this correctly, or is there something I'm missing?

3. Another idea: instead of circulating thru 100 ft of 1/4" tubing, would it be more efficient to have a much larger tube go from the pump to the tank where it serves as a manifold to split into 4 or 5 parallel coils of 25 ft each which then rejoin into the larger tube to return to wherever the glycol is being chilled then back to the pump? The electrical comparison might be comparing resisters connected in parallel instead of in series.

I apologize for jumping onto this thread, but I wondered if any of this would help the OP with his solution.

Thanks,
Keith

Keith,

I think this is a great thread with some truly great questions. Here is my opinion on the items you brought up.

1. Yes you are correct if you were to use 1/4". Ideally 3/8 copper tubing or larger would be best to compensate for the pressure drop. I am not sure I understand what you are saying with the jacket idea though. Right now my setup would be similar to the OP's. Except mine is stainless and their's is plastic. If you were to take a slice of my wall it would look like this. Stainless steel, 1/4" copper tubing, 1.5" thick Armaflex insulation.

2. Found this as a great example from another website.

Head - Defined
Head is a measure of fluid energy. It is used to describe the Specific Energy of a pump.

Specific Energy is defined as energy per unit of mass. For example, if we lift up a one-pound object by three feet, we say we have three foot-pounds of energy. It doesn’t matter whether it's a pound of lead or a pound of feathers; we still have 3 foot-pounds.

This is why head doesn’t change with the type of liquid being pumped. Whether pumping water, alcohol, or oil, a pump’s head rating is unaffected.

Sometimes Head is described as the resistance that a pump must overcome. While this may describe what’s going on while pumping, it is not technically correct.


Head vs Pressure
Pressure is not Head. Pressure is a force applied to an Area. For example, PSI refers to Pounds per Square Inch. The “Square Inch” part is the big difference between Head and Pressure. With Head, there is no Area in the calculation.


Types of Head
There are four types of head; Static Head, Friction Head, Pressure Head, and Velocity Head.

Static Head – Applies only to open systems, such as a waterfall in a manmade pond. It is the difference, in feet, between two water levels. So if the pump is at the bottom of our pond with a waterfall, then the Static Head is measured from the top of the pond water to the top of the waterfall (yes, the TOP of the pond water, not the bottom where the pump is sitting.) A pump's head rating is usually the maximum Static Head the pump can overcome.

In What we are dealing with to move chilled water, the Static Head should be zero assuming you are not using a bucket and the loop is completely a true closed loop.

Friction Head – Also called Pressure Drop. It is the resistance to flow. When a pump pumps liquid through a component, that component creates a resistance to the flow of liquid. Typical components are tubing, radiators, fittings, and waterblocks. This resistance to flow is usually expressed in feet of head.

Ideally with the 100' of 1/4" we are talking about this is where most of the pressure comes into play.

Pressure Head – Refers to the different pressure levels between two vessels. For example, if a pump must pump rainwater (collected in an open tank) to a second tank that is closed and slightly pressurized, then in addition to Static and Friction Head, the pump must also overcome the pressure being exerted on the water in the tank. Exist in open systems only.

This would apply if you had a freezer with a bucket of glycol (slightly pressurized) ie the top is shut and the pump is moving a fluid.

Velocity Head – Refers to the energy required to accelerate the fluid. Exist in open systems only.
This information was edited a bit to apply it to our application. But was found here :
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=488081

If you have a system that is closed you are correct that the pump will not have to work as hard. Theoretically, the pump is only moving the fluid and head could be negated to an extent..obviously we are not in a Perfect world.

3. This could also work as long as you can over come the pressure. Theoretically, the same pressure is present whether you have a manifold or a single straight system when you one back to the suction side of the pump. Just like an electrical the fluid will take the least resistance path. By adding a manifold and more fittings, technically we are increasing more pressure for the pump to overcome based on fluid dynamics. I am not saying it wouldn't be better I am merely saying that more calculations would have to be calculated to confirm the correct size for the pump.


Kyle
 
Thanks for the info everyone. I'm going to give it a try with extra insulation. I think that the issue will be time needed to bring the temperature down. If anything, the insulation capacity of the plastic tank will work in my favour once I get the temperature down.

Again, I'm looking to lager with this type of setup, so time to bring the temperature down doesn't play as large a factor as someone looking to cold crash an ale.

Has anyone had an bad experiences with filling a chest freezer with glycol without some kind of container inside? I have a couple of freezers that I use right now for lagering carboys and I'm seeing a lot of rust seep out.
 
Back
Top