ebay aquarium temp controller build

bigtex52 said:

That will work fine, no hazard. Make sure you are jumping the neutral (white) side, not the hot.

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Thanks Bigtex. Pretty sure that's what we did - we tested it and it works for both heat and cooling separately, so I think we're good to go!

Ugh hope someone can help. I'm not sure how to wire this controller. Single stage from lhbs. Similar to stc type single stage celcius with 11 pins

I talked to lhbs and they helped me out. It all made sense when I realized that load is my outlet. Hot from 3 to switched side of outlet. Neutral from outlet to 1.

alien said:

I'm still loving the STC-1000 build but do radio shack even sell the 8x6x3 box that the OP used? I was in several different stores this week checking out the clearance items and never saw one that size.

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Finally got around to building one of these! I couldn't find the 8"x6"x3" or the 7"x5"x3" project box in the stores in my area or online so I had to go with the 6"x4"x2" one. It turned out better than I expected, nice and compact. It is a very tight fit but it can be done!

I am hoping to head to my recycle center and snag some wire and cord from an old fridge but if I can't will I be able to use:
http://www.harborfreight.com/25-ft-x-14-gauge-outdoor-extension-cord-41446.html

Just use the extra wire for the inside?

also thinking I might use this for the box:
http://www.harborfreight.com/ammo-box-61451.html

Anyone try that? That way I can move it around if need be.

theck said:

Looks great. What wiring diagram did you use to add the fuze? And what fuze did you use? I like that idea.

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Thanks! I used the wiring diagram out of Jay Cummings' "Keep it Cool (or Hot)" article in Brew Your Own Magazine, Jan-Feb 2012, Vol. 18, No.1, Pg. 65. It called for a 10 amp panel-mount fuse holder and a 10 amp fuse. The article directed to mount the fuse holder/fuse inline on the main hot-wire (black) coming in.

jweg,

Great looking build! I have the same size project box and am looking to follow a similar format as yours. Any chance you have any pictures of the inside or part numbers for the fuse holder / fuse? Looks like RadioShack might carry them. Thanks!

Anyone using Romex for the inside? Have a bunch of 12 left over from a project.

theck said:

Anyone using Romex for the inside? Have a bunch of 12 left over from a project.

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It can be used. Remove the outer sheathing. IMO, stranded wire is much easier to use in tight spaces and connections at the terminals will be more secure.

Ok thanks ya have it separated. Might just pick up stranded, budget it pretty tight right now though, waiting on the stc. Was hoping to get it before this major freeze but oh well.

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Lurch69 said:

jweg,

Great looking build! I have the same size project box and am looking to follow a similar format as yours. Any chance you have any pictures of the inside or part numbers for the fuse holder / fuse? Looks like RadioShack might carry them. Thanks!

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Here are some more pictures.*

I used a panel mount fuse holder (http://m.radioshack.com/radioshack/...Id=2062231&categoryId=&cust_categoryId=&path=) and a 10A 250VAC fast acting fuse (http://m.radioshack.com/radioshack/...+1¼x¼"+Glass+Fuse+(4-Pack)).

On the top picture, what are the two unused neutrals just hanging out over there for?

Will that add a nice safety measure? Might add one myself, some people are saying it's not needed or the circuit will trip before the fuse goes... why the fast acting right?

Huaco said:

On the top picture, what are the two unused neutrals just hanging out over there for?

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There are 2 neutrals and 2 hot wires hanging out so I can add some larger indicator lights to the box if I feel the need, just like Loudmouthbrewer did in his great writeup here. http://loudmouthbrewer.wordpress.co...troller-wiring-diagram-with-indicator-lights/ I covered the ends with hot glue and then glued them to the lid for safety and to keep them from getting in the way.

theck said:

Will that add a nice safety measure? Might add one myself, some people are saying it's not needed or the circuit will trip before the fuse goes... why the fast acting right?

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I went off to wiring diagram that was in*Jay Cummings' "Keep it Cool (or Hot)" article in Brew Your Own Magazine, Jan-Feb 2012, Vol. 18, No.1, Page 65. I have included a picture of his wiring diagram below. Hopefully I have given him sufficient credit for his work so I don't get accused of plagiarism, haha. I have seen many STC temperature controllers on here that seem to work just fine without the fuse.*I figured it can't hurt to include more safety measures. From what I understand, the fast acting fuse will open the circuit the instant there is an issue.*

jweg said:

There are 2 neutrals and 2 hot wires hanging out so I can add some larger indicator lights to the box if I feel the need, just like Loudmouthbrewer did in his great writeup here. http://loudmouthbrewer.wordpress.co...troller-wiring-diagram-with-indicator-lights/ I covered the ends with hot glue and then glued them to the lid for safety and to keep them from getting in the way.

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oh I like this idea! Thanks for the diagram!

So I used the diagram in the image below, which is slightly different then the op diagram, but was wondering if there are any advantages or disadvantages in this method or the op.

Ralphadopolis said:

So I used the diagram in the image below, which is slightly different then the op diagram, but was wondering if there are any advantages or disadvantages in this method or the op.

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I think that's the simplest wiring method I've come across, using only one wire nut. A+

IslandLizard said:

I think that's the simplest wiring method I've come across, using only one wire nut. A+

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Thanks, I have not had much experiance in wiring, but I found this diagram really easy to follow.

Link to the site where I found it.

jweg said:

There are 2 neutrals and 2 hot wires hanging out so I can add some larger indicator lights to the box if I feel the need.

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Since you're using marettes, it's trivial to add wires later. You should take those out until you need them. Especially the unconnected hot wire -- dangerous.

I wired the controller in place of the dial thermostat on my chest freezer tonight. It was way easier once I figure out what everything was from the wiring diagram on the back of the freezer.
Basically I took the wires from the light and hooked them to the main power ( 1&2 ) and the two wires from the dial thermostat to the cooling side ( 7&8 ). The wiring of the freezer already provided 2 positives and 2 negatives. I wired it positive =1/7, negative =2/8.
I will be adding a heating pad to the heating side for the eastern Oregon winter. This is my Fermentation chamber and will be in the shed to save my marriage.

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Happened across what looks like a stc1000 on ebay only this one displays Fahrenheit. You know, for those of us that don't like to constantly do conversions. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Tem..._DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d79919ee#shpCntId

engineerAsh said:

Happened across what looks like a stc1000 on ebay only this one displays Fahrenheit. You know, for those of us that don't like to constantly do conversions. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Tem..._DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d79919ee#shpCntId

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Looks like a single-stage version. These are good for cooling OR heating, not both like the STC-1000. I may be wrong, but the price is one indicator. It also looks exactly like my single stage Wilhi controller (with the exception of it being in F).

Ah, I did not notice that but I think you are right. I think I may get this for my keezer build. I really have no need for a heat option.

barrooze said:

Looks like a single-stage version. These are good for cooling OR heating, not both like the STC-1000. I may be wrong, but the price is one indicator. It also looks exactly like my single stage Wilhi controller (with the exception of it being in F).

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engineerAsh said:

Ah, I did not notice that but I think you are right. I think I may get this for my keezer build. I really have no need for a heat option.

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Nice find!!! I just read it and it claims to do heat and cool. It shows on the controllers left side and in the description. I might have to buy a couple of those. I have a Celsius version and I need one for my keezer...but why not get a third while there are ones that read Fahrenheit.

That's an MH1210F or G (can't read the fine text on top).
Fahrenheit single stage with ASC, works great.
I installed one in the lid of my new keezer.

It can be set for heat OR cool - not both - as it is in fact a single stage controller...

Cheers!

engineerAsh said:

Happened across what looks like a stc1000 on ebay only this one displays Fahrenheit. You know, for those of us that don't like to constantly do conversions. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Tem..._DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d79919ee#shpCntId

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I have searched around for a F° two stage version of this. Not that C° is a bad thing but just curious. Has anyone ever seen one?

I suppose a single stage F° version would work well for lagering with a freezer. Even a diacetly rest at 55-60° would not necessarily require re-wiring for heat.

Thoughts on this my fellow HBT'ers?

Love TSS2-2100.

I have one running my fermentation fridge. Works perfectly, comes with well built SS probe on the end of a long sturdy cable.

But it's pricey...

Cheers!

Thanks day trippr.

Looks like about $70 but cheaper than my Ranco Dual Stage was and I get to play with wiring and electricity! :rockin:

There ya go - have fun with it!

The Love also has the ASC that the Ranco single and dual stage controllers lack (and that leaves me unable to recommend using them with a compressor).

I think it's better looking than my old Ranco, too

Cheers!

Well I just finished a build of my own and am pretty happy with how it turned out. The first controller I received had a defective cold relay so I had to order a new one. Luckily I ordered through Amazon, so the return process was smooth. I ended up using a 7x5x3 project box. Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread, it made making this thing a breeze!

My STC came yesterday and planning on building this weekend. I ripped apart an old power strip (14G wire) and was wondering if it would be worth it to put in the mini circuit breaker from the strip to maybe add a level of safety?

theck said:

oh I like this idea! Thanks for the diagram!

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You're welcome

Just built and put mine in. Temp addition to my fridge, moving it all to a keezer sometime. Works great. Light kicks in when cold and think it will allow me to keep it all in the garage over winter. Now if I could just figure out how to stop the taps from freezing.

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The STC-1000 is down below $18 on Amazon again !

I snagged mine off eBay for $16 shipped. Took 3 weeks to get here but $2 less ha

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Anyone connect an extra plug branching from the box to use for fans or dehumidifiers?

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Yes, I put in an extra unswitched duplex socked in my build, and those I have built for club members (about 12.) I use it for a computer fan, plugging in a phone 12V DC adapter. It seems to help keep temperatures even.

marshallwms said:

Yes, I put in an extra unswitched duplex socked in my build, and those I have built for club members (about 12.) I use it for a computer fan, plugging in a phone 12V DC adapter. It seems to help keep temperatures even.

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There shouldn't be any issues with doing so right, drawing too much or ??