American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

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Mine didn't turn out not quite as "haus" as expected.

OG - 1.052
FG - 1.004
ABV - 6.3%

I guess that thinner longer mash improved fermentability a bit too much. The hydrometer sample tastes great though. It's hard to tell warm and flat, but I think it may turn out pretty good. I even re-calibrated my hydrometer just to be sure.

Well you should be happy that you can get such good attenuation. Now just use that to brew an Imperial IPA or a strong Belgian ale.
 
Brewed a batch of this a couple months ago (extract version). This is easily one of the best beers I have brewed. Its soo good! And many others that have tried it agree.

Thanks for the recipe Ed. Im so glad i brewed a whole 10 gallons.

Martin
 
Read the 1st 35 pages.... didnt see anything to answer this....

Eds directions:
Single Infusion mash for 60 minutes at 152 degrees.
I batch sparge in a 10 gallon water cooler with a stainless braid manifold. Dough-in with 3.5 gallons of water. After 60 minutes, add 5 quarts of 175 degree water and begin vorlauf. My system only takes about 2 quarts before it clears up, then it's wide open to drain in the kettle. Have another 3.25 gallons of 175 degree water ready for the next batch sparge. You should then get 6.5 gallons to your kettle for the boil.

So my strike water AND my sparge water should be 175? With grain it goes down to the 152 degrees? Also, some say you have hotter temp water for the sparge... to stop enzymes... 175 both times is ok?
 
ok, im on page 35 but I have a question. I am brewing this as my first AG as well. After reading papazians books I am wondering if I missed something. I heard people talk about whirlpooling and all. My past malt extract full boils i just dumped the kettle into the bucket after the hour boil.... hot/cold break and all. Do you guys all whirlpool then siphon out from the sides of the brew kettle? Would I be ok with this one by dumping it all in the bucket or is it a MUST to whirlpool and siphon AG batches?

wow i just realized the last post was MINE from 2 days ago... still have a few questions to figure out here... maybe ill post these in AG forum.
 
Beau815 you can use something like this calculator to figure out what temp your strike water should be: Green Bay Rackers--Mash Calculators

You want the strike water to be hot enough so when it looses heat from the grain and sitrring that it ends up around your desired mash temp. You should also pre-heat your mash tun so you don't have to account for that heat loss.

I have only done a few AG batches but I like doing two batch sparges with the water around 175.

I have been whirlpooling and then letting my kettle sit for 10 or 20 minutes. From my experience it doesn't do a lot except let some of the pellet hops and everything settle down to the bottom. Then I usually pour all of the wort from the kettle into my bucket and stop pouring when it starts to get really really heavey with hop sludge. But it's not like I don't any any of it in my fermenter because I do... just not all of it.

I have also just poured it all into the bucket and I didn't noticed any ill effects.
 
Well you should be happy that you can get such good attenuation. Now just use that to brew an Imperial IPA or a strong Belgian ale.

I brewed a belgian strong a few months back. I got some heavy duty attenuation with WLP530. I started low and raised the temps over the period of seven days. It turned out well, it also ended up having some very nice pear notes and a 8.2%ABV. It is LBJ in a bottle. Well, a keg anyway.
 
From my experience it doesn't do a lot except let some of the pellet hops and everything settle down to the bottom. Then I usually pour all of the wort from the kettle into my bucket and stop pouring when it starts to get really really heavey with hop sludge.

I have also just poured it all into the bucket and I didn't noticed any ill effects.

I am using a paint strainer to contain hop pellets so maybe i dont have to whirlpool it at all.... i will pour into the bucket and slow down at the end to see if i see any hot/cold breaks in the bottom...
 
I am setting up right now to make this recipe today. It will be my first ever beer making experience.
I just realized that I bought s-04 instead of 05, doh! Oh well, I'm just trying to get through the process today and if it results in something drinkabe, I'll be thrilled.
Wish me luck!
 
Purchased the ingredients from Brewmasters Warehouse on the link from the original post.
This will be my thirst batch and first all grain.
Nottingham was in stock so woohoo, can't wait to try it.
 
I am going to brew this up tomorrow and had to sub. one ounce of Cascade for an ounce of Perle....Any Idead How I should to my hop additions with this one....

Thanks
 
Question on my efficiency... I followed directions to a T and used all the exact ingredients yeast and all (I used 11L instead of 10L crystal malt, does that matter) Ok. This was my 1st AG and I took my gravity like a noob... in the kettle when the thermometer showed 70 degrees i dropped my hydrometer in... it was looking like 1.040-1.041 accounted for the 10 degrees and added a point to bring it to 1.042 at the most... Now could my stupid technique have given me a false reading? Maybe it was hotter than that deeper down in the kettle? I should of used a hydrometer jar and should of taken the sample from the fermenter b4 adding yeast but was so bummed by my low reading I didnt bother. Do you think it will come out ok? Was hoping to brew a 5-6% abv for a family get together... looks like they will need to drink a 6 pack like BMC to get a decent buzz...

A second parter to this post: I am going to brew this again. I want to add 2lbs of pale 2-row to bring my gravity up... even if I mash efficient and hit 1.062 or something I dont mind... I want to add an oz of hops to make up for the extra 2 lbs... what hop should I use? Another cascade? Or something like a willamette?
 
Question on my efficiency... I followed directions to a T and used all the exact ingredients yeast and all (I used 11L instead of 10L crystal malt, does that matter) Ok. This was my 1st AG and I took my gravity like a noob... in the kettle when the thermometer showed 70 degrees i dropped my hydrometer in... it was looking like 1.040-1.041 accounted for the 10 degrees and added a point to bring it to 1.042 at the most... Now could my stupid technique have given me a false reading? Maybe it was hotter than that deeper down in the kettle? I should of used a hydrometer jar and should of taken the sample from the fermenter b4 adding yeast but was so bummed by my low reading I didnt bother. Do you think it will come out ok? Was hoping to brew a 5-6% abv for a family get together... looks like they will need to drink a 6 pack like BMC to get a decent buzz...

A second parter to this post: I am going to brew this again. I want to add 2lbs of pale 2-row to bring my gravity up... even if I mash efficient and hit 1.062 or something I dont mind... I want to add an oz of hops to make up for the extra 2 lbs... what hop should I use? Another cascade? Or something like a willamette?

I think the beer will turn out ok... Just let it sit and it'll be great.
I would recommend you to measure the gravity after mash before boil..
I usually get the sample into the hydro tube and chill in the freezer.. .after 10 minutes, it should get to 60-70F. I measure and get an estimation on my SG... From here, i can either boil as is.. or add some DME to raise the gravity. I usually just leave it alone...

The extra 2# of grains doesn't equal to another oz of hops.. unless you really want to hop it.. the extra #s are just there to compensate the low efficiency. It doesn't necessary raise your gravity up another 10 points... so no worry.... but you can always add more hops if you like it that way.
 
yeah i do like a hoppy beer but for my family who drink bmc i wanted something exactly like ed's haus. For myself i think ill do the 3 oz and 2# in the future. Thanks for the info ill check SG preboil next time.
 
Beau815, you said you followed the directions exactly???? Being that it was your first all grain, that is not a horrible thing to do, but you still have to come up a system that works for you and you equipment. Getting a gravity of 1.041 could be caused by a few things....If your boiloff wasn't as much as you thought it could lead to the same result.....Did you end up with more wort than you wanted???
 
nope.. i thought i was going to undershoot 5 gallons at the end but ended up with a tad over 5 gallons... it was how i mashed im sure... maybe the milling by the LHBS helped but i didnt sparge twice... drained and refilled and drained again... guess im supposed to do it twice.
 
How does this look for a PM version of this. I like to use more grains than extract, so I didnt want to do the original version of the PM. This seems to be as similar as i can get to the Haus Pale Ale. I might have to try this once one of my carboys gets freed up. Let me know what ya guys think. (I use Deathbrewer's PM technique).


Type: Partial Mash
Date: 5/9/2009
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Boil Time: 60 min
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00
Mash Temp 152

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
3.00 lb Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 37.50 %
2.50 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 31.25 %
2.00 lb Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 25.00 %
0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 6.25 %
1.00 oz Cascade [6.60 %] (60 min) Hops 23.8 IBU
0.50 oz Cascade [6.60 %] (30 min) Hops 9.1 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [6.60 %] (15 min) Hops 3.0 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [6.60 %] (5 min) Hops 1.2 IBU
1 Pkgs California Ale (White Labs #WLP001) Yeast-Ale



Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.051 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.012 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 5.18 %
Bitterness: 37.1 IBU Calories: 225 cal/pint
Est Color: 6.3 SRM

:mug:
 
20090510194605.jpg


After 2 1/2 weeks in the bottle. (And half the glass consumed.)

Mighty Tasty. Thanks Ed
 
I sampled my batch of this last night after 3 days in the keg. Very tasty. Light, crisp, with a nice hop aroma from the dry hopped cascade. Only problem I realized is that I forgot to use any Irish Moss in the boil so it's a little hazy but I'm hoping some more time in the keg will help it clear up a bit more.
 
Brewed my 4th batch of this in March, only this time dry hopped a half once of left over Cascade. Tasted it last night, Excellent, probably the best brew I have ever made.
 
This should be a required brew for all moving to AG! It was my third actual AG solo, and I brewed it mainly cause it was cheap, fast and easy, but also to get spent grains for some Irish bread on St. Paddy's.
So 3/13 - the night before my party I brewed this up AG 5.5 G version - minor tweaks. In primary at 1.065 at 65-75 F and left it (other than to show visitors what fermentation looks like). It stayed there for 37 days....
I got tired & lazy and was sure it was not going to be good. I took a reading and decided to rack it to a secondary carboy (1.012 FG). Tasted pretty good, so I continued with it.
Left it there again for about a week... Then racked to a keg and crash cooled at 38F. Let rest for 3 days then ran with pressure from keg to keg through a home made filter (whole house filter modded) and back in the keezer. About 72 hours at 30-40PSI for a force keg. Settled at 12 PSI afterwards and started tasting it (5/1). SWMBO LOVED it. Guests from work (also homebrewers) loved it too. Half keg now gone... may not make it to competition (work comp for fun).

Anyone even remotely curious about trying this beer should dive in as it is hard to screw it up. Also a testament to patience and time!

Prost Ed!
 
I am also using this for my first all grain recipe, as a matter of fact I am heating my water as we speak.
Wish me luck :)

I hope mine turns out as great as everyone here's has turn out!

I do have a question:

How much priming sugar should I use to carbonate with? I am bottle carbonating and conditioning as I do not have the means to keg.

thanks
 
There's a good priming sugar calculator here.

I'd carb an APA to about 2.4 volumes or so.
 
After a winter hiatus I stepped back in the pool with this one yesterday, I'm anxious to see how it tastes compared to the first batch I did when I used S-05 and 2 month old unsealed crushed grain....although it was still mighty tasty.
 
So I brewed this to be ready for last year (my son was born) and this was to be a celebratory beer =)

It was also my first step into AG. It didn't go well. I didn't do a very good job planning nor did I take the time to do anything right. I wasn't surprised when it was done that it was awful tasting and cloudy So the remainder of the bottles ended up in the back of fridge for a few months. Until this past weekend I pulled them out to dispose of them =(

I pulled them out of the fridge and looked inside the bottle. What used to be a cloudy mess was crystal clear - so I grabbed a glass. It was delicious! What the hell was I thinking? I learned a ton from brewing this beer. I revamped my brewing procedure, invested in some better equipment, and learned to not give up and be patient. I'm hooked. BREW THIS BEER YOU WON'T REGRET IT.
 
i tasted 1st batch after 1 wk just to sample. My gravity was low at 1.041 but i may have gotten a bad reading i don't know. (did it in the kettle after chilled to what the floating therm read as 70 so added a point to bring to 1.042 as my temp was 70 not 60) anyways, it seems pretty bitter because i didn't hit 1.050-52. Not overly too bitter I ended up used to it after half a glass. I hope it mellows a bit after 2 more weeks. Anyone think it will?
 
I tasted the hydrometer jar after 7 days and it was very bitter. Then I took another sample and tasted it at day 10. Wow what a difference a couple of days made. It was incredibly smooth and I couldn't believe it was the same beer. This was the first batch I ever made, but now I can't wait to taste it chilled, carbed, and more than a month old. I accidentally bought Safale 04 rather than 05, and mashed at about 151, but I expect it to be very tasty and I'll probably do this recipe again.
 
I'm brewing this on Wednesday. All-Grain kit from Brewmaster's Warehouse. I can't wait, given the excellent reviews!
 
Brewed this over the weekend. Had a little trouble with keeping the Mash Tun warm enough, ended up at 1.0451 OG (63% efficiency). Is this going to cause a really hoppy beer? I'm fairly new to this and when I adjusted my efficiency the hoppiness meter went way up. Either way I'm still excited to get this into bottles since it's my second all grain batch.

I modified the recipe a bit to make the OG and IBU's line up for a 5 gallon batch using Hopville.com:

7 lbs Pale
1.5 lbs Vienna
1 lb Caramel 20L (had it at the house)

1 oz cascade 60 mins (5.9%)
1 oz cascade 30 mins (5.9%)
.5 oz cascade 15 mins (5.9%)
.5 oz cascade 5 mins (5.9%)
 
I just put my first batch of this in the ale pail. I pitched a starter leftover from a previous ESB of Munton's Dry Yeast, figuring that since the Notty is a fairly neutral English yeast that the Munton's would be similar. I also had some Chinook leaf hops that a pro brewer friend gave me that I tossed in to the last aroma addition, looking to make it a tad more fragrant. Other than that, I can't wait to keg this in two weeks or so!
 
Some friends and I brewed this yesterday. Last year we made some attempts at all grain that were somewhat unsuccessful, so this seemed great for our first brew of the year.

We doubled the recipe in order to get ~11 gal (basically just doubled all the amounts). Hit a OG of 1.054, and it is now in the fermentor with some US-05. Hopefully turns out as successful for us as the many others here.

Thanks for the recipe EdWort
 
Every time I pop one of these open it is better than the last one...

I tried dry hopping a batch with .25 oz cascade. Lets hope it tastes just as good with the extra hop aroma!
 

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