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50 amp 220 panel kit from ebrew supply, the wiring inside needs to be cleaned up so it doesn't look like spaghetti, but it's safe and works great, I did end up putting a PWM in it in place of pid boil control because the pid I had won't do ssr output.

5 batches in, it's great to be able to mash and boil at the same time

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runningweird said:
50 amp 220 panel kit from ebrew supply, the wiring inside needs to be cleaned up so it doesn't look like spaghetti, but it's safe and works great, I did end up putting a PWM in it in place of pid boil control because the pid I had won't do ssr output. 5 batches in, it's great to be able to mash and boil at the same time

Nice thanks.
 
Just about to start building a 50a bcs462 4 element, 2 pump panel. I am considering adapting the kit to 2 x 50a inputs.... Still pondering it!

http://www.ebrewsupply.com/ebrew-kits/bcs-controlled/bcs-4-element-2-pumps-50a-kit.html

Razor, if I had 1 suggestion about this (as mine is wired and being tested :D) I'd suggest hardwiring the 50a plug... not using the California Connectors... save yourself about $100 and the hole doesn't need to be NEARLY as big :) that's the one thing I wish I would have done differently.
 
Here is mine. I Hope to have it wired soon, but is a bit more expensive than I originally thought it would be.

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Razor, if I had 1 suggestion about this (as mine is wired and being tested :D) I'd suggest hardwiring the 50a plug... not using the California Connectors... save yourself about $100 and the hole doesn't need to be NEARLY as big :) that's the one thing I wish I would have done differently.

Thanks for the heads up! I already have the california connectors on hand now.....Guess I have a decision to make on to use them or not as I haven't started the build yet.

Still trying to wrap my head around what I'd need to do to convert to a dual 50 amp circuits coming in for this kit, and if it's worth my effort to go that route.
 
Thanks for the heads up! I already have the california connectors on hand now.....Guess I have a decision to make on to use them or not as I haven't started the build yet.

Still trying to wrap my head around what I'd need to do to convert to a dual 50 amp circuits coming in for this kit, and if it's worth my effort to go that route.

Feel free to ask questions, there are lots of suggestions me and others can give.
 
Here's mine. Kal clone that I fired up for the first time yesterday. First brew day will be this weekend.

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HellBentBrewCo said:
Everything went really well. Almost had a boil over and ended up with slightly less in the fermentor than I wanted but everything was smooth.

Awesome. I bet it was a great. I can't wait to be up and brewing again.
 
Here's the insides of one I did some work on recently. This is on an electrically heated 3 barrel HERMS system. 300 amp three phase service feeding the panel.

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On the DIN rails are the 24 VDC power supplies, relays, fusing, etc. To the right is a breaker box providing ground fault and over current protection for all the individual AC loads. Top center of the DIN rails is a three phase Variable Frequency Drive (VFD) for the mash rake. Bottom of the enclosure has a variety of twistlock connectors for all the loads and sensors.

On the door you see the back side of a Unitronics V1210 PLC. Also the alarm buzzer, main power switch and interlock latch so the door can't be opened with the power on.


Note the long U shaped loop in the wires that cross the hinge to the door. That's the correct way to run wire to a door. When opening and closing there is a small twisting in the length of the wires rather than a bending stress right at the hinge point. Repeated bending can lead to broken wire.


One thing I might have done differently had I built this would be to locate the breaker box outside adjacent to this enclosure. That way an operator could reset a tripped breaker without having to power down the entire system first to open the interlocked enclosure.
 
here is my budget build... if i remember right it was under 200 to go from propane to electric. 2x120v setup.
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Now i just gotta figure out how to mount it to here...

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Got something similar from amazon too. I really like it because the back plate attaches and then is hooked/bolted on the arm.

Check this out on AMZN: VideoSecu LED LCD TV Wall Mount Full Motion with Swivel Articulating Arm for most 23 to 37", Some up to 42... http://amzn.com/B000WYVBR0
 
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In the process of building mine at home, but this is the one we built for the brewery at work.
Two PID's for HLT and BK temp, Controls for the pumps, and then temperature controls for the 4 fermentors.

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Looda, I've got an extra one of these sitting around my house. Could you show a few pics of how it's attached? I think this would be a great way to get the job done. Thanks.

Sorry was on vacation but all I did was mount the plate to my box and the other end is screwed into a 4x4 I left long by 2 feet on one corner of my wood brew stand. The mount is really stiff to move so I might look for something different that I can loosen then move then tighten down. Trying to swing the box out to use moves my whole table.

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Sorry was on vacation but all I did was mount the plate to my box and the other end is screwed into a 4x4 I left long by 2 feet on one corner of my wood brew stand. The mount is really stiff to move so I might look for something different that I can loosen then move then tighten down. Trying to swing the box out to use moves my whole table.

Looks pretty cool. I will be doing this since I've got the mount already at the house.

I think depending on the type of TV mount you've got, there's a screw somewhere in the back side that can loosen the swinging motion. You may need to check, but I know the one I bought a while back had it.
 
Good point i'll play around with the swivel points and see what happens. Probably would help to read the instructions that came with it but who really does that right? :)
 
Here's my newly built panel... it ain't pretty but its functional and was less than $200 to build.
I used switch craft connectors for the plugs and the spa panel mounted nearby is the main power switch with the DC power supply switch killing all the element and pump power.

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Here's my newly built panel... it ain't pretty but its functional and was less than $200 to build.
I used switch craft connectors for the plugs and the spa panel mounted nearby is the main power switch with the DC power supply switch killing all the element and pump power.

What do you mean it ain't pretty? For two hundred bucks I think that's the most beautiful thing that I've ever seen.... Nice!
 
:mug: Lol thanks I kept making changes so the panel layout is not well played out and I have a pile of rotor switches and indicator lights that I couldn't use without making it worse... oh well Guess I'll have to start planning the version 2 panel :)
In reality I had the two relays, a 24/12 v power supply and wire already but if I excluded them the panel really only cost about $150.00 to make I could have easily skipped the 24v and just used an old PC power supply for 12v but I would have needed $16 in relays plus I wanted to be able to upgrade my pumps to the more powerful 24v versions.
 
Here's my newly built panel... it ain't pretty but its functional and was less than $200 to build.
I used switch craft connectors for the plugs and the spa panel mounted nearby is the main power switch with the DC power supply switch killing all the element and pump power.

we need a build thread or at least tons more pictures and the narrative to go with :rockin:
 
we need a build thread or at least tons more pictures and the narrative to go with :rockin:

Thanks, I will see what I can do.... I was looking at your thread... I used the same pumps as your great brew ones but got it on amazon for 30 bucks.. ( same topsflo pump with FDA coating but plastic threads)
Also you stated that the Rex pid would display ferhenhieght but I can't find any reference to it? So far the $25 my pin TD4 is a much better value for me I have the Rex working as a temp display for my mash temps but its only displaying celcius so I may replace it with a td4 or at least a TA4 for $20...
 
It colder than hell here so, I had to stay home with the kids and finish my panel:rockin:
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For the record, 16*12*6 is too small. Just like everything else, go bigger when you can.
 
fantastic, I love it. Super simple.

I like the power cord coming into the box. I wish I would have gone that way instead of a flanged outlet.
 
fantastic, I love it. Super simple.

I like the power cord coming into the box. I wish I would have gone that way instead of a flanged outlet.

I thought about going with the port he used, but those things are just as expensive at a flanged inlet/outlet. Best I have seen is well over $40. If I could find them at and affordable price, I would go that way, save a lot of room in the box.
 
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