American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract

thisisbeer said:

I read a few pages but to many post to go through so I apologize if this has been talked about. This will be my first IPA and I was going to use 1187 wyeast. Does that sound like it will work? I see a lot of posts on pacman Nottingham etc. I can run and pick some up I suppose. But I had this on hand to brew another IPA then changed my mind to this one.

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I've never had good luck with ringwood yeast, but I think others have. It's very fruity, very British, and hard to get to fully attenuate and to get rid of the diacetyl so I'm not a fan of that yeast even in British strains. I would not use it in an American IPA, unless I was expert at dealing with it.

Going to give this a try in two weeks, can't get pacman, anyone use Denny's Fav Wyeast 1450? Also, online HBS subbed centennial for Amarillo. Similar AAU, should be ok with these changes?

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I tried topping off my 6 1/2 gallon carboy and came up with an OG of 1.034. There is no way it has more than 6 gallons in the carboy, maybe 5 3/4. I checked it in the pot at 3.75 gallon mark and it was 1.093 before topping off. So two gallons of extra water brings it down that much? I know I used to much water but I can't believe it screwed it up this bad.

thisisbeer said:

I tried topping off my 6 1/2 gallon carboy and came up with an OG of 1.034. There is no way it has more than 6 gallons in the carboy, maybe 5 3/4. I checked it in the pot at 3.75 gallon mark and it was 1.093 before topping off. So two gallons of extra water brings it down that much? I know I used to much water but I can't believe it screwed it up this bad.

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No, of course not. If you had 1.093 at 3.75, and added two gallons of water (1.000), the OG is 1.061. It's simple math. That's if you have 5.75 gallons in the fermenter.

But if you didn't take the measurements right, than there could be a huge difference. If you added more water, or you had less wort in the pot, or if you left a lot of wort behind in the pot as sludge, it could be much lower.

Thanks. I feel a lot better

So my triple screw-up brew is mostly-carbed up, and it's not bad at all! I screwed up the following ways:

1. Brown malt vs. Amber
2. Racked to secondary too early (1.020)
3. Dry hopped for 5-6 weeks

It's not quite as good as the last time I made it, but definitely drinkable

Bottled this weekend. OG was 1.062, and a FG of 1.010 on the 12lbs of total grain (dropped 1lb of pale malt, everything else the same).

Taste was amazing. Can't wait for it to carb up. Hope the dry hop aroma lasts!

SudsyPaul said:

3. Dry hopped for 5-6 weeks

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5-6 weeks? Wow! Do you notice any vegetal or grassy character from such a long dry-hop?

Oddly enough, don't notice any. My palette was pretty messed up, yesterday, though. I'll try more tonight and see what I get, but I was expecting the worst and was pleasantly surprised :O

I'm coming around on my batch. Not sure whether it's getting better with time, or I'm just learning to love it. All my Cali Ale Yeast ales are great fresh, but I fermented this with Denny's Favorite. It was very cloudy and took a while to clear. Now that it's clear, I'm able to enjoy it more. The hop taste and aroma isn't what I'm used to in big hoppy IPAs, but the one ounce of mid to late hopping come through better than expected and overall the beer has a nice firm bitterness.

Overall, It's a nice session IPA... think I used 10 or 11 lbs base malt instead of the 13 suggested. I'll probably brew this again... next time with a different yeast and may fiddle with the specialty malts a bit. Especially considering it's dirt cheap to brew compared to some of the hop burst, west coast IPAs. This one was under $20 with harvested yeast.

After a long hiatus I took my first crack at extract brewing yesterday and this was the recipe I decided to go with, I'm very excited to see how it turns out.

I ended up making substitutions for all the hops on account of the unavailability of two locally (Warrior & Simcoe) and I figured "what the hell, go for broke" and went on to replace the works. This may have been a mistake, time will tell, as it always does.

On the other hand I've never had any DFH before since we can't get it here...yet. There may be hope in the future, but I digress.

The point is, I didn't head out to make a clone so much as an interesting IPA, hopefully that's what I get.

For posterity/thoughts/opinions/predictions here are the substitutions I made (with the help of the LHBS):

• Nugget in place of Warrior
• Centennial in place of Amarillo
• Magnum in place of Simcoe

4kg (8.8lbs) of LME instead of 4.3kg (9.5lbs) and I slightly overshot my steeping temp, managed to hold it under 170F - about 160-165F but almost lost it, once the grain went in I guess the heat retention ability of the water shot up - or it least it seemed that way.

...and now that I just re-read the recipe I forgot the Irish Moss - D'oh! I may have to try clearing it in the secondary...we'll see. Oh well, I was bound to forget something.

I look forward to butchering someone else's fine work soon!!

Hey Yooper, I'm about to do a 10 gallon batch (AG). Any recommendations on yeast? I can't get Pacman and saw you were trying some different strands. Which ones are working best for you now?

I am thinking WLP002 in one 5 gallon batch and WLP007 in the other. Any recommendations?

jackers252 said:

Hey Yooper, I'm about to do a 10 gallon batch (AG). Any recommendations on yeast? I can't get Pacman and saw you were trying some different strands. Which ones are working best for you now?

I am thinking WLP002 in one 5 gallon batch and WLP007 in the other. Any recommendations?

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My favorite is WLP001, and it's been my favorite for quite a while. It enhances the hops well, and it seems to clear faster than the similar Wyeast 1056 for me.

Yoop, 001 over the pacman yeast listed in the original recipe?

pfgonzo said:

Yoop, 001 over the pacman yeast listed in the original recipe?

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Maybe not! I haven't had pacman in quite a long time, so I don't think I ever tasted them side by side. I've been using WLP001 for a few years, and like it.

Excited for this one Yooper. Halfway through my second batch of this today. 2 - 6 gallon batches. First was with pacman, second with ringwood. Slight water profile alterations between the two. Looking forward to a month from now.

Yooper said:

I think initially it was simcoe/amarillo/palisade. Then just simcoe/amarillo, and later simcoe/palisade. I'm not sure of when it changed, though.

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Wow, this is a long thread on DFH 60 Minute (assuming it still is). Just saw a video of Sam featuring their 61, and his brewmaster mentioned the hops used in 60 as Warrior, Simcoe and Palisade, not Amarillo. I love Amarillo, but I'll be interested to see how Palisade works next time.

Let us know about Ringwood. Can't get pacman in Canada and have heard mixed reviews of Ringwood. So brewed today with Denny's Fav.

Tasted a bottle yesterday and think I have an off flavor, but have a hard time describing it. I fear it's diacetyl, but that shouldn't be possible with my temps (66 for 5 days and raised to 70 for 7 before chilling to speed settlement. It's still early, so I'll check in in another two weeks.

If the flavor doesn't improve I don't think I'll use pacman again.

Just tasted mine. The ringwood yeast got it down to 1.014 in about 7 days @ 65f. Then 7 days at 70f. It has cleared really nice. It tasted great, no noticeable off flavors yet. I will probably use this yeast again.

I just saw this thread...I was considering doing a version of this out of Clone Brews but it's different...My PM of the CB version calls for 5# Maris Otter, 4 oz Crystal 55, 4 oz British Amber, 5# Muntons XLT DME with Warrior/Simcoe/Amarillo...

So mainly Maris Otter rather than American two row...How different would this be as a clone with the MO as the base grain??

tlavas said:

I just saw this thread...I was considering doing a version of this out of Clone Brews but it's different...My PM of the CB version calls for 5# Maris Otter, 4 oz Crystal 55, 4 oz British Amber, 5# Muntons XLT DME with Warrior/Simcoe/Amarillo...

So mainly Maris Otter rather than American two row...How different would this be as a clone with the MO as the base grain??

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Maris otter is very "Englishy" tasting- bready and "warm" if that makes sense. My recipe is more clean and without bready notes.

So should I go with 5# American 2 row and 6oz amber malt with 5# Muntons XL DME or Muntons Plain Amber Malt DME?

Is this made with Brewers 2-row or Pale Ale?

Looking to brew this, but where can I get TF Amber malt? Or, is there a suitable substitute?

tlavas said:

So should I go with 5# American 2 row and 6oz amber malt with 5# Muntons XL DME or Muntons Plain Amber Malt DME?

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NO amber DME! That isn't an extract with amber malt- it's amber colored due to crystal/caramel malts added to it.

American two row, amber malt, and plain DME is fine.

MikeyLXT said:

Is this made with Brewers 2-row or Pale Ale?

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Either is fine. I normally use the brewer's two-row but have used pale ale malt as well.

HopinJim said:

Looking to brew this, but where can I get TF Amber malt? Or, is there a suitable substitute?

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I've used Crisp amber malt as well, and it's fine to use. Otherwise, I can't think of another great sub but I have used other malts like biscuit malt in a pinch and it came out ok.

In my latest iteration of this, I used 87% 2-row pale malt and 13% Munich, no crystal. It's got another week or so to condition, then I'll post some results.

thisisbeer said:

Just tasted mine. The ringwood yeast got it down to 1.014 in about 7 days @ 65f. Then 7 days at 70f. It has cleared really nice. It tasted great, no noticeable off flavors yet. I will probably use this yeast again.

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Had an English style ale brewed using 1187 and think it tastes better with age. Definitely using 1187 again.

Brewed my 60 minute clone (now named Train Wreck 1) this weekend as a BIAB All-Grain.

Everything went very well and my temps were basically spot on. I ended up splitting the hops up with my scale so that every 2.5 minutes I was making an addition. It ended perfectly with my last addition at flame out. OG was slightly low at 1.065 but this is most likely due to having a slightly more volume into my fermentor then anticipated. I still havent nailed down my absorption rate and my boil off rate. I should look into tracking that better.

It was bubbling away this morning when I checked it 12 hours after adding the yeast from the starter.

This will be my 1st recipe on the keg.

Looking to do recipe this using BIAB method.
However, my brewpot is only a 10 gallon Polarware unit.
Will this be too small?
I have a 10 gallon Igloo cooler that I had intended to make into a mash tun, but once I started brewing BIAB, I never got the false bottom, etc.
Would I be better off converting my cooler and doing this the "traditional" AG way?
BIAB is just so easy.....

I have a 10 gallon brew pot as well and have done BIAB. It can be done but I prefer to stick to grain bills that are 10lbs or less. not because of size of pot, but more for working with over ten pounds of saturated grains is a real pain. squeezing the goodness from bag at that weight sucks.

Thanks for the recipe Yooper. I ended up bumping this one ahead one spot in my pipeline because I was very intrigued with a 'no crystal' IPA. I brought the gravity down to 1.058 and IBUs down to about 57 to make it a bit more sessionable, though it'll still weigh in at about 6% ABV at full attenuation. My bittering charge (chinook) was put in all at 60 minutes, and my "continuous" hopping didn't begin until 15 minutes but I tried to keep dropping in pellets of hops at every minute or two. I made sure to save some left for a flameout addition and quickly brought the temp down to 175F for a 15 minute steep. I'm really looking forward to the final product because it's a new take for me on this style.

Thanks for keying my into an IPA recipe without any crystal - I'll let you know the end product turns out.

Cheers!

Hmm. I did a similar experiment making a DFH 60 Min clone without crystal, substituting Munich instead, and it turned out quite different than my prior attempt, which was pretty close to the real deal. I don't think I'd recognize this version as a knock-off of the original, even though it's very good.

To compensate for the lack of crystal, I bumped the mash temp up to 155 to produce a fuller body. It's the lightest colored beer I've ever made, and deceptively full-bodied, but I think I prefer the version with crystal. Just a little caromel-y-ness missing that I like.

I meant "caramel-y-ness". In case there is such a word, it should be spelled correctly, at least!

The recipe of base malt and Thomas Fawcett Amber is clone worthy, no crystal is going get it to taste like DF60. Also, this beer SHOULD be 6% ABV. Not sure why some people are making it so its 7+ ABV. At this moment DF is saying they use Simcoe and Palisade. Having said all that its your beer, make it how you want

sivdrinks said:

The recipe of base malt and Thomas Fawcett Amber is clone worthy, no crystal is going get it to taste like DF60. Also, this beer SHOULD be 6% ABV. Not sure why some people are making it so its 7+ ABV. At this moment DF is saying they use Simcoe and Palisade. Having said all that its your beer, make it how you want

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I've been making this recipe a bit differently for my House IPA over the last couple of years. I kept the hopping the same, and changed the grainbill to 10 pounds two-row, and kept the 6 ounces of TF amber malt. I normally get an OG of 1.055-1.057 or so, which comes out perfectly for me since it's more quaffable. I mash lower, and get a FG of 1.010. It's 6% ABV.

I never use crystal malt in it, but I have it for the extract recipe since TF amber malt is a "mash only" grain and it's not bad in the extract version. The AG version does not contain crystal malt!

Of course, I no longer consider it a "clone", but that's what I drink for my House IPA.

Yooper said:

I've been making this recipe a bit differently for my House IPA over the last couple of years. I kept the hopping the same, and changed the grainbill to 10 pounds two-row, and kept the 6 ounces of TF amber malt. I normally get an OG of 1.055-1.057 or so, which comes out perfectly for me since it's more quaffable. I mash lower, and get a FG of 1.010. It's 6% ABV.

I never use crystal malt in it, but I have it for the extract recipe since TF amber malt is a "mash only" grain and it's not bad in the extract version. The AG version does not contain crystal malt!

Of course, I no longer consider it a "clone", but that's what I drink for my House IPA.

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Wasnt debating you Yooper, it was for all the other people on here changing your recipe and brewing it to 8%. Forgot about the crystal in the extract recipe, my bad on that. FWIW I brewed the recipe with Palisade once and didn't care for it, YMMV.