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RichBrewer said:
2. Missing the mash temperature. (Usually low when using cooler type mash tuns)
To avoid this common problem there are two things I suggest:
1. Pre-heat your mash tun with hot or boiling water. This water is drained from the tun right before the strike water is added. Using this method will pre-heat the tun so not as much heat will be pulled from the strike water when added .
2. Heat your strike water about 2 or 3 degrees above your target temp, pour the water into the tun, and let the temp drop to your target. By the time you reach your strike temp, the tun should be conditioned and when the grains are mixed in you will hit your desired mash temp and it will hold longer.
Click to expand...

Is there any reason to not just use the pre-heat water? If I want to mash @ say 154F which calls for strike water @ 168F. Is there anything wrong with add 175F water to my converted cooler tun letting it stabilize then letting it cool to 168F (maybe add a couple ice cubes) then mixing in grains?
 
wiescins said:
Is there any reason to not just use the pre-heat water? If I want to mash @ say 154F which calls for strike water @ 168F. Is there anything wrong with add 175F water to my converted cooler tun letting it stabilize then letting it cool to 168F (maybe add a couple ice cubes) then mixing in grains?
Click to expand...

some do just that.. others preheat and dump and others direct fire their mash tun heat the water needed for the mash. there's no right or wrong, what ever works for you and helps you make great beer then it's the right way for you.
 
wiescins said:
Is there any reason to not just use the pre-heat water? If I want to mash @ say 154F which calls for strike water @ 168F. Is there anything wrong with add 175F water to my converted cooler tun letting it stabilize then letting it cool to 168F (maybe add a couple ice cubes) then mixing in grains?
Click to expand...

This is pretty much what I do and I can hit any strike temp I want rather easily, depending on what style of beer I'm making. I will admit though that it does take a bit long for the water to cool down to temp sometimes. That may be a factor for some people to take into consideration.
 
I'm new to all grain brewing. I've had a lot of problems so far. My first 3 batches went sour,not sure y. last night I boiled my wort and some sort of white strings where all through my boil. it was so bad that it cloged my valve when transfering to fermenter. I need help!!!!
 
Sounds like hot break, which is normal. You need a way to filter that crap before it reaches the valve.
 
dojcak123 said:
I'm new to all grain brewing. I've had a lot of problems so far. My first 3 batches went sour,not sure y. last night I boiled my wort and some sort of white strings where all through my boil. it was so bad that it cloged my valve when transfering to fermenter. I need help!!!!
Click to expand...

Hmmm. White strings and sour? How do you cool your hot wort?
 
Hey I need help, Thinking about going all grain, and I need some advice about equipment, I want to do 5 Gal batches or 10 gallon batches. as of now all I have is a 5 Gal pott.what would be the best way to go for setting up with a budget but I want to do it right the first time around.:mug:
 
ChuckCollins said:
Hey I need help, Thinking about going all grain, and I need some advice about equipment, I want to do 5 Gal batches or 10 gallon batches. as of now all I have is a 5 Gal pott.what would be the best way to go for setting up with a budget but I want to do it right the first time around.:mug:
Click to expand...
Get yourself a 1/2 keg and cut the top off. That's a 15 gallon brew pot. Then you'll need a propane burner, like for a turkey fryer, to boil the 15 gallon pot.
You should be able to get one if you ask the liquor/beer stores for about $30.
 
Strike temp is to get mash temp. They have apps to calculate. I think lower mash temp = more fermentabels and higher = more body.
 
I'm still pretty new to AG brewing; I've only done three batches of AG so far so I'm definitely still working out the kinks in my system. One of my biggest issues has been getting my mash to the right temperature. I'm using a converted 5-gal cooler with a false bottom for a mash/lauter tun.

Would it be possible to do the following:
1) Heat strike water in brewpot to 10-15 degrees higher than desired
2) add grains to brewpot
3) adjust temperature as necessary to get desired mash temp
4) move the whole mash to my cooler mash/lauter tun

I've never seen that approach mentioned before, is there any reason that wouldn't work?

The only issue I can think of is concerns with aerating the mash when you pour everything into the cooler, or perhaps some additional temp loss when transferring to cooler. Has anyone ever tried this?
 
dml263 said:
I've never seen that approach mentioned before, is there any reason that wouldn't work?
Click to expand...

You could make it work, but I would think you might have a few issues. If you tun isn't preheated then the mash temp will be lowered, but it should be relatively predictable so once you figure it out on your system you can adjust with higher temps. Another issue is moving/pouring a big pot of grain and water. That crap is heavy! I would suggest preheating the mash tun, starting with water that's hotter than your current calculations are suggesting, then adding about 75% of the strike water, then the grains, mixing well and then add water a quart or two at a time until you hit the desired temp.
 
dml263 said:
I'm still pretty new to AG brewing; I've only done three batches of AG so far so I'm definitely still working out the kinks in my system. One of my biggest issues has been getting my mash to the right temperature. I'm using a converted 5-gal cooler with a false bottom for a mash/lauter tun.

Would it be possible to do the following:
1) Heat strike water in brewpot to 10-15 degrees higher than desired
2) add grains to brewpot
3) adjust temperature as necessary to get desired mash temp
4) move the whole mash to my cooler mash/lauter tun

I've never seen that approach mentioned before, is there any reason that wouldn't work?

The only issue I can think of is concerns with aerating the mash when you pour everything into the cooler, or perhaps some additional temp loss when transferring to cooler. Has anyone ever tried this?
Click to expand...

By doing so you risk burning grain/malt to the brewpot. The heat coming up the center of the pot from the flame underneath is typically hotter than 172, if that's what you are shooting for.

I have never had a problem heating to 165-170, adding grain (let's say to the tune of 13-15lbs for a 5 or 6 gallon batch) and mashing at 152 or 153.

If you aren't, I would recommend that you preheat your mash tun by adding 5 or 6 gallons of hot (not boiling) water prior to beginning. Establishing this early on not only helps with temperature loss, but more importantly helps with temperature control.
 
C-Rider said:
How does one know what the strike temp should be for differend styles of beer?
Click to expand...

There are guidelines, but I say make it how you want it. The different mash temperatures will essentially create different types of sugar to be fermented, or not. So basically you need to decide if you want a malt-forward beer or a more dry beer, or something in between? Experimentation is the key here.
 
Food for thought:

I don't like trying to preheat my MLT (I use a 10-gal rubbermaid cooler) because that just introduces another element I have to measure, regulate and try to duplicate from batch to batch - and it will directly affect what temp I need to heat my strike water to.

I like just starting with a room-temp MLT and room-temp grains. After a few batches, I learned exactly how much heat will be absorbed by my setup - the only variable I need to compensate for is that batch's particular grain bill. I intentionally overshoot my 154F target by a couple degrees because it's easier to stir it up and drop the temp right where I want it than to try and bring the temp up.

Since I do 5-gal batches in my 10-gal MLT, though, I've cut out a piece of thick styrofoam that rests on top of the mash. This not only cuts the dead-air head space in the MLT, further insulating the mash, but it gives me something to stick my thermometer probe in so it sits perfectly in the grains.

...just my $0.02 though - as has been stated before, it's all in what you're comfortable with and what works with your equipment! RDWHAHB!!

Also, I personally suggest not wasting money on the false bottoms. I've never owned one (always been stopped short by all the reviews of people saying they get stuck sparges, and how they let grains through, and how they hold the grains above a significant volume of water). I've had great success with a simple homemade manifold; a piece of copper pipe with many different-sized holes drilled in it and the end clamped closed. Very simple and very cheap, if not free! Never had a stuck sparge (remember to open that ball valve slowly, kids!).

...but again, that's just what works for me. Take it for what it's worth, and find out what works for you! Good luck!
 
I haven't done an all-grain yet but I'm planning to use a 9-gallon stainless with a false bottom for my MLT.

mail

9%20gallon%20pot%20with%20bottom.jpg


I figure if my temp gets low, I may add a little heat gradually and pull some wort from the bottom and gently pour it back on top to distribute it.

Any objections? :)
 
dml263 said:
I'm still pretty new to AG brewing; I've only done three batches of AG so far so I'm definitely still working out the kinks in my system. One of my biggest issues has been getting my mash to the right temperature. I'm using a converted 5-gal cooler with a false bottom for a mash/lauter tun.

Would it be possible to do the following:
1) Heat strike water in brewpot to 10-15 degrees higher than desired
2) add grains to brewpot
3) adjust temperature as necessary to get desired mash temp
4) move the whole mash to my cooler mash/lauter tun

I've never seen that approach mentioned before, is there any reason that wouldn't work?

The only issue I can think of is concerns with aerating the mash when you pour everything into the cooler, or perhaps some additional temp loss when transferring to cooler. Has anyone ever tried this?
Click to expand...

Pre-heat your tun with the strike water. I have 12gal picnic cooler converted into a mash tun, and this works well for me. To hit strike temp, it is easiest to use the strike water to pre-heat the tun. basically figure out your strike water quantity (mash thickness & weight of grain). Heat this amount to ~175F and add to your EMPTY tun. Allow heat to equilibriate, then check temp. Let water cool until desired strike temp is reached (open tun, add couple ice cubes, stir, etc....). Add and mix grains once tun is at desired strike temp. After grain added, take another temp reading to confirm mash temp.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
ddrrseio said:
is there any difference between igloo's 10 gallon coolers? the one commonly sold includes 'industrial' in the label but the one for $40 at walmart does not. the walmart one also contains a drink dispenser, which i won't need.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Igloo-Beverage-Jug-Orange-and-White-10-Gallon/14550424

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N6SB/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Click to expand...

I use this cooler (from wmart) with the 9" false bottom for my mlt and never lose over 1* in an hour mash!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
thanks!

i had ordered it plus northern brewer's SS cooler conversion kit and the 12" kettle screen tube. the tube was slightly too long for the igloo but not beyond correction with pliers. i made a pumpkin ale today and the entire setup worked great.
 
My first AG set up was 2 5gal. Rubbermaid Coolers. After a while I thought, why not go bigger? So I went to a sporting good store and bought a 10 gal Igloo cooler for $50 and put my mash fittings on it.
The Igloo held the temp better and I was happy.
All of a sudden I started getting stuck sparges.
I couldn't find the problem and plenty of air would go throgh when blew back on the tubing.
Luckily I wouuld siphon out the liquid from the mash and saved 3 brews.
After taking the false bottom out, I FOUND THE PROBLEM! The bottom of the cooler separated from the insulation and buckled upward so it wou obstruct the flow to the valve. Put a dome on a dome and nothing happens.
So now that 10 gallon cooler will hold sparge water for now.
My experience.
JustGGW
 
thanx for the sticky. very easy rules to live by. I'm starting all-grain this winter so this is very helpful
 
Starderup said:
One more thing: If you grind your own grain, make sure your cordless drill batteries are charged.
I am positive I charged them both last week, but I guess when they get two or three years old, they lose the charge even if you don't use them. The one in the drill wouldn't even turn. The backup went about half a turn.
Thankfully, I got the Barley Crusher, which comes with a hand crank. It took ten minutes instead of 90 seconds, but I got my batch done.
Click to expand...
Not to completely change the subject matter of this informative subject, but the Barley Crusher gain mill caught my attention. My LBS is a decent driving distance. I checked out the Barley Crusher website, and like what I see: made in the USA which is important; even made in Michigan.

From the Starderup post, I see he likes the mill. Appreciate any thoughts before I place an order. They come in two sizes: 7 & 15 pound hoppers. Any preferences. Thanks.
 
garysherck said:
Not to completely change the subject matter of this informative subject, but the Barley Crusher gain mill caught my attention. My LBS is a decent driving distance. I checked out the Barley Crusher website, and like what I see: made in the USA which is important; even made in Michigan.

From the Starderup post, I see he likes the mill. Appreciate any thoughts before I place an order. They come in two sizes: 7 & 15 pound hoppers. Any preferences. Thanks.
Click to expand...

love mine..got the 7lb model.. the 15lb would be nice for loading the hopper once on smaller beers but really it takes VERY little effort to reload the hopper. If you plan on powering it a cordless drill ins't going to be up to the task.. just get a cheap corded drill from harbor freight.
 
I am doing 5 gal. AG batches. I looked for the answer to this question in the next few pages, and may have missed it.

I am not sure how many gallons of water is under my false bottom in both the Mash Tun and BK. Therefore, it seems to me in making the water calculations for both the mash and sparge water, should this be considered as an "extra" amount needed? I want to have 6.5 - 7 gallons of wort in the BK before the boil. I will keep a record of how many gallons is lost during the 90 min. boil, but I do not want to come up short. Or does that really matter?

WildKnight said:
I apologize if this question was already covered, as I didn't get through all 20 pages.

But, my false bottom hold two gallons of water under it. So, if I stick to 1-1.25 quarts per pound of grain, then the top of my mash will not be submerged in water. How much will my efficiency be hurt if I use too much mash water? Also, is it really a big problem if I just boil longer to remove the excess water? (that is, assuming I am not brewing a very pale pils for which I do not want excessive caramelized sugars)?
Click to expand...
 
I use a cordless drill on my Barley Crusher just fine :eek:

And I have to go on it pretty gently at that... I can mow through an entire hopper in a matter of seconds, but going that fast shreds the husks too much.
 
Since I do 5-gal batches in my 10-gal MLT, though, I've cut out a piece of thick styrofoam that rests on top of the mash. This not only cuts the dead-air head space in the MLT, further insulating the mash, but it gives me something to stick my thermometer probe in so it sits perfectly in the grains.

I am adding to an old thread but this quote made me wonder if this is the source of my problems with 50-60% efficiency. Is this dead space in my 10 gal cooler the issue? I've double and triple checked all other processes and this is the last possibility that I have been wondering about. So much so that I am going back to my 5 gal tun and do smaller batches. I didn't seem to have any problems with that setup. I use Beersmith and follow those recommendations and temps right on target. I monitor alll my temps with a digital therm. Crush grains at .39. I've batch and fly sparged nothing seems to get me up past 50-55%. I regularly miss my FG by 15-20 points. Any thoughts?
 
Our PH is 9.75. I use 5.2 but have just started hearing that stuff doesn't work?? Since I have been using it I haven't tested it. Any thoughts on what I should use to bring it down?
 
So... yea, new to the all grain brewing... two batches done no beer done yet...
I bought a watercooler and converted to a mash tun after trying Papazians Zapap(?) sparger (a bucket with a hundred holes in it)

My Questions:

1)How do I know if the grain I bought needs a "protein rest" ?

2) Flavor and body variations from Mash temp: What kind of numbers are we talking about here? 145-155?

OPEN,OPEN, OPEN to any and all advice.
I love doing this and would like to do it forever! (beer, not the blog questions)
:rockin::rockin::rockin::ban::ban::ban::tank::tank::tank:
 
1) Almost no grains out there require a protein rest these days. Especially if you're using pale malt. It's essentially been done during the mqlting process. You have to go out of your way to find a malt that's undermodified enough to need or benefit from a p rest.
 
If I have a recipe with 12 pounds of grains, that would be 3.75 gallons for the mash. But then 1.2 gallon per pound for the sparge would add another 6 gallons, totaling nearly 10 gallons for the boil. It is supposed to be a 5 gallon batch. Where am I going wrong?
Thanks!
 
DblTrbl500 said:
If I have a recipe with 12 pounds of grains, that would be 3.75 gallons for the mash. But then 1.2 gallon per pound for the sparge would add another 6 gallons, totaling nearly 10 gallons for the boil. It is supposed to be a 5 gallon batch. Where am I going wrong?
Thanks!
Click to expand...

Grain absorbtion is approximately .125 gallons per pound of grain. So 12 .125 = 1.5 gallons absorbed by the grain. So you would be able to get 2.25 (3.75 - 1.5) gallons of wort out of that. Sparge with a remaining volume X so you reach your target pre boil volume. 2.25 + X = Y

I like to collect 7.5 gallon to start my boil. evaporate of 1.5 gallons in an hour boil and arrive at my 6 gallon planned batch size. In the equation above my X value would be 5.25 gallons of sparge water to equal my pre boil of 7.5
 

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